• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.155-164
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• 2014

This paper discusses the social changes in the late 19th century that provided a historical background in the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing in the West. It examines the social meanings of the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing at the time and traces the origins of these social characteristics to the book published in the $16^{th}$ century by Thomas More, Utopia. The results of this study can be summarized as the following. First, the appearance and expansion of the ready-to-wear clothing coincided with the social transition from a class-based society to a democratic society in the west in the $19^{th}$ century. Second, uniforms were produced in the $18^{th}$ century Europe in order to distinguish different classes and ethnic groups, with the military uniforms being the most visible example. Frequent military campaigns in Europe resulted in the increasing demand and expansion of military uniforms, which later became the basis of the standardization of the men's clothing with uniforms. Third, the women's ready-to-wear clothing appeared later than their male counterpart and was made possible by the simplification of design, an important characteristic of women's wear in the later period. Fourth, the social characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be traced to a democratic and egalitarian society without personal properties that was depicted in the book of Utopia by Thomas More. Fifth, one of the characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be found in the description of Utopia, in which everyone in Utopia wears a clothing of the same form for life.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.165-184
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expanded characteristics that can be found in the fashion designs of JUUN. J. For the study, the concept and discourse related to theme expansion have been theoretically reviewed, and various types of expansive characteristics were derived by reviewing prior research related to the keyword expanded characteristics. Photo data required for the analysis were collected through the official website of JUUN. J and Vogue, a worldwide fashion magazine. The scope of the survey was limited to 983 photographs collected from 28 collections from 2009 S/S through 2022 F/W. The results are as follows. First, the expansion of the human body, which is achieved by adding an empty space between the body and the clothing or using various materials to express the volume of the body, is expressed through two different forms in the designs of JUUN. J. Second, the expansion of time expresses the combination of different timelines, the meeting of the past and present or awe toward the unpredictable future. Third, the expansion of style, which is expressed by reinterpreting existing costumes or styles, is a type of expansion' that appears individually in the fashion designs of JUUN J. Such expansion of style can be found in the military inspired designs. Fourth, the expansion of space, which diversifies our perception of space by re-recognizing the concept of space, was implemented into the works and designs of JUUN. J through the convergence of different cultural aspects. Fifth, the expansion of gender, which is expressed through the continuous exploration of the borders of gender and the delivery of social messages, has appeared in the works of JUUN J. in the form of genderless design.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.90-111
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• 2021

1795년 윤2월 12일 정조가 친림하여 행한 장용영 외영의 군사 훈련을 그린 <서장대야조도>를 중심으로 장용영 하급 군사들의 위치와 역할, 역할별 군복의 구성과 특징을 고찰하였으며 결과는 다음과 같다. <서장대야조도>에서 정조가 자리한 서장대 앞에 2열로 마주보도록 배치된 등롱군·뇌자·순령수·대기수와, 서장대를 둘러싸고 정조를 호위한 군사들은 모두 장용영 소속 하급 군사들이었다. 정조 앞에 배치된[御前前排] 등롱군의 군복은 전립, 흑색 협수, 홍색 괘자, 남색 전대, 백색 제비행전, 흑혜로 고증하였다. 하급 군사들의 협수는 기존 학계에 알려진 관직자들의 무가 있는 협수와는 달리 소창의형 협수일 가능성을 제시하였다. 등롱군은 칼을 차고 손에는 홍사촉롱을 들었다. 뇌자는 신전수와 주장수가 있었다. 왕 앞에 배치된 뇌자의 군복은 주전립, 흑색 협수, 홍색 괘자, 남색 전대, 백색 제비행전, 흑혜로 고증하였다. 뇌자는 칼을 차고 신전기 또는 주장을 들었다. 왕 앞에 배치된 순령수는 순시기수와 영기수가 있었다. 순령수의 군복은 전건, 흑색 협수, 홍색 괘자, 남색 전대, 백색 제비행전, 흑혜로 고증하였다. 순령수는 칼을 차고 홍순시기 또는 홍령기를 들었다. 왕 앞에 배치된 대기수의 군복은 전건, 흑색 협수, 청색 괘자, 남색 전대, 백색 제비행전, 흑혜로 고증하였다. 왕 앞에 배치되는 다른 군사들과 달리 대기수는 정조대에 와서야 왕 앞에 배치됨으로써 괘자의 색상이 청색인 점이 달랐다. 대기수는 칼을 차고 대기치를 들었다. 서장대를 둘러싼 군사들은 전초군과 좌초군이었고, 성곽을 방어하는 군사들은 좌·우·전·후 초군으로 보았다. 초군의 군복은 전립, 흑색 협수, 호의, 남색 전대, 백색 제비행전, 짚신으로 고증하였다. 호의는 방위에 따른 색을 사용하였기에 좌초군은 청색, 우초군은 백색, 전초군은 홍색, 후초군은 흑색이었다. 초군이 소지하는 무기는 조총과 칼이었다. 성정군들은 조총과 칼 외에도 훈련 상황에 따라 횃불이나 등이 달린 기창을 들기도 하였다. 이상의 고증 결과를 반영한 시각화의 기본 원칙은 3D 콘텐츠 제작뿐만 아니라 실물 제작까지 가능하도록 시대와 신분에 적합한 형태·색상·재질 기준을 제안하였다. 역할별 복식 착장도에 무기와 군기(軍器)를 갖춘 앞·옆·뒤 모습으로 표현하고 색상을 RGB와 CMYK로 제안하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.151-156
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• 2007

Slashes, deprived from the Crusaders' military uniforms, take their places among the fashion terms in modern fashion, and they are represented with some techniques such as fraying fabrics or making holes. Slashes are also used in various ways across all the fashion areas including clothing to accessaries. Slashes, which were once used to represent a solid body and to make a body move suitably, are used not only to express the formative of clothing but also to allow wearing sensations and functionality to wearers depending on their daily lives and the movements of their activities in modern fashion design. Optical illusions of fashion, image variabilities, functionality and ornamentation, and design principles, which were once represented with materials, colors, and details mainly used in fashion designs, are represented using slashes in modern fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.334-351
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• 2006

The purpose of study is to examine fashion bags reflected women's changing lifestyle, their needs and vogue in modern environment since 20th century. Today fashion bags can be divided into practical bag, evening bag, luxury bag and utility bag. Practical bag is a type of tote which is perfect for working mom or women carrying lots of things on a daily basis. Evening bag is a symbol of femininity in respect for its handmade artistry and impracticality by its small size. Luxury bag embodies human desire for high quality and being part of prestige of luxury brand regardless of its cost. Utilitarian bag was coming from military or sports gear and are popular among young generation armed with mobile computing or crazy about popular music and all kinds of sports. In contemporary fashion culture, fashion bags play an important roles on balancing women's social and domestic life as functional and decorative accessory.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.478-486
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• 2011

This study is to analyze the symbolic images appeared in modern fashion design adopted dualistic meanings in uniforms. Uniforms signify order, conformity and discipline in public life. The dualistic meanings in uniforms appeared modern times are as follows: public authority vs individual non-authority, heterosexual identity vs homosexual identity, time-space uniformity vs mixed diversity. The symbolic images appeared in modern fashion design adopted dualistic meanings in uniforms such as military uniforms, school uniforms, nurses' uniforms, sports uniforms and etc. are erotic image, hybrid image, and kitsch image.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.582-590
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to evaluate thermal properties of Taekwondo wears with three different materials. As a begging step, the questionnaire survey about the actual condition of Taekwondo wears was conducted. With the results of the questionnaire, cotton/nylon(70/30) blended fabric(CN) that was newly woven with sweat absorbent finishing and cotton/spandex(95/5) blended fabric with flexibility property were developed. The same designed 3 Taekwondo wears with 3 different materials which were two different materials(CN and CS) and a current material(cotton/PET, CP) were made. Four young males volunteered for this study, they kicked and punched as Taekwondo action for 20 minutes. Mean skin temperature was the highest in CS(33.1${\pm}$0.8$^{\circ}C$) and the lowest in CP(32.7${\pm}$0.6$^{\circ}C$). Increasing degree of rectal temperature didn't show any significant difference. Clothing microclimate temperature on the thigh was higher in CS(32.8${\pm}$17.4$^{\circ}C$) than in CN(29.4${\pm}$1.1$^{\circ}C$) and CP(29.4${\pm}$1.0$^{\circ}C$). Clothing microclimate temperature on the back and humidity on the thigh didn't show any significant differences. Clothing microclimate humidity on the back was higher in CP(65${\pm}$20%RH) than in CS(61${\pm}$17％RH). Heart rate, total body weight loss, and local sweating were not significantly different by materials. Most subject responded more hot in CN than in others, but there were no significant differences at the subjective sensation of thermal humidity. They answered more comfortable in CN than in others. Tectile sensations were the best in CN and the worst in CS. From those results, first of all, it is necessary to be weighted on Taekwondo wears made of CN in the aspects of the dignity of military arts uniform. Secondly, CS was required to be lighted and enhanced for the subjective sensation. Third, CP weaved honey comb was asked more various design to eliminate sweat high competition power within the scope of the dignity of military arts uniform.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.473-487
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the body type and fashion of posthuman in SF movies. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, internet web site, fashion books and so forth. The results were as follows: The body types of posthuman were expressed as mutation type, prosthetic type, clone type by biological hybrid or renovation and digital type by computer simulation. The mutation type was expressed as reinforcement of masculinity or feminity and reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a black tailored suit, leather jacket, cat suit, whip, black sunglass, garter belt, high heel shoes, short pants, black one piece dress and functional body suit. The prosthetic type was expressed as reinforcement of body functions and reinforcement of masculinity or feminity. The fashion item was expressed as a military item, high-tech power suit and ergonomic armor suit. The clone type was expressed as the plural ego with reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a power shoulder jacket, fake fur coat, vinyl, black see-through look and functional suit. The digital type was expressed as reinforcement of masculinity or feminity and the plural ego with reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a data suit, leather jacket, black over coat, boots, black sun glass, ethnic items and military items. The meanings of posthuman fashion in SF movies were impurity of posthuman, display of superhuman's power by sexuality, metaphor of power and fantasy of superhero in opposition futuristic dystopia. As mentioned above, posthuman body type and fashion in SF movies become the conversational topic in the real world. The fact that we think about utopia and identity of posthuman in the future is of great significance.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.706-718
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• 2014

Ideology which symbolizes the belief system about the order of human society represents itself in a concrete form through dress which reflects material and conceptual world. In the early 1960s Korea, where a civil revolution and a military coup took place, good examples of dress representing ideology could be found. This study investigates the dress representing ideology of the period, and examines its manifestation and aspect of transition. Literature survey and case study were conducted. The following results were obtained: First, dress representing ideology was symbolically verifying its differences and was changing with the course of time. There were the flow going down from the government, and the flow going up from the movement of the civilian. Through this process, design elements of ideological dress were combined in a dialectic way to form a new representational dress such as Jaegunbok. Second, costly and luxurious clothes meant a tool to rule over people, and the opposition was uniform meaning equality. In 1960 Korea, black waves of school uniforms appeared to lead the social change. A year later, the military government seized power in a 5.16 coup and it enforced uniform upon every people to achieve equal austerity and modernized spirit. Lastly, cotton, which was originated from Gandhi's movement in India, was symbolizing nationalism till the early 1960s in Korea meaning the funding own development with own resources.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.682-693
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• 2013

Camouflage is evaluated by scientific principle in the fields of biology, military science, and art. It has a strong influence on contemporary fashion and means exposure with concealment. This study analyzed the visual characteristics of camouflage patterns in fashion design through documentaries and fashion photos. The fashion design results areas follow. The simple blending of a disruptive motif indicated an inaccurate repetition of a disruptive motif, the discontinuous or continuous connection of disruptive motif, the irregular repetition of a disruptive animal silhouette, the collage of a different disruptive motif, the craft of a disruptive motif and the intensive color match of a disruptive motif. It represented the maximization of complication, fantastic and fanciness. The overlap of a disruptive motif showed the overlap of disruptive print patterns with transparency and an overlap of different fabrics with a disruptive pattern. It represented spatial relationships of three dimensions as well as the maximization of visual illusion and the reinforcement of attractiveness. The blurring of a disruptive motif showed the pointage of disruptive motif, the pointage of image, value gradation, the whole blurring of a disruptive pattern cluster and stained appearance. It represented the obscurity of motif form, the uncertainty of object and double meaning. The trompe l'oeil of a partial background object showed the realistic and the painterly imitation of color and texture for partial objects through a close-up. It represented amazement and pleasure by illusion, scarcity and the decoration of surface and synecdochical remind. In conclusion, camouflage in fashion was weakened and modified from a classical military context by a unique expression of various motifs.