• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.5
• /
• pp.704-717
• /
• 2015

In modern fashion fabrics became an important element that leads the current of fashion beyond materials. Also, it has a creative role that reflects emotional and visual aspects, and it is considered as a mega trend that will lead the $21^{st}$ century fashion industry. The value of fashion products is affected not only by the style and design but also the sensuous properties like color, pattern, texture, and drape of fabrics. Therefore, in this study, characteristics of fabric trend between 2007 S/S and 2010 S/S will be analyzed focused on Premiere Vision, which influenced many Korean fashion trend information companies, while looking into the fabric trends shown in the world's top four collections-Paris, Milan, London, and New York-and Seoul collection, and comparing and analyzing the acceptance level of those. Fashion fabric is an important part in fashion design and change with social environment and value, its considered that the role and importance of subject matters increases in changing fashion design toward globalization by meeting various personality which is diversified more and more. It is to provide specific and practical data to be used for the Korean fashion industry, which can be used as useful information for future fabric researchers and people in the fashion industry for integrated study of fashion design and fashion fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.24 no.3
• /
• pp.1-15
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the perception of men's fashion before and after the COVID-19 pandemic. TEXTOM allowed the collection of Big Data based on the term 'men's fashion'. As for the data collection periods, Jan. 1, 2018 to Dec. 31, 2019 was set as the pre-COVID-19 era, while Jan. 1, 2020 to Dec. 31, 2021 was set as the post-COVID-19 era. The top 50 words in terms of appearance frequency were extracted from the data. The extracted words were processed using network centrality analysis and CONCOR analysis using Ucinet 6. Research findings were as follows. 1) In the pre-COVID-19 era, the appearance frequency of 'men' was the highest, followed by 'fashion', 'men's fashion', 'brand', 'daily look', 'suit', and 'department store'. These words came up with a high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis discovered that 'men', 'fashion', 'men's fashion', 'brand', and 'suit' had a high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed four significant groups: 'fashion item and styles', 'fashion show', 'purchase', and 'collection'. 2) In the post-COVID-19 era, the appearance frequency of 'men' was the highest, followed by 'fashion', 'brand', 'men's fashion', 'discount', 'women', and 'luxury'. These words also displayed high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis found that 'fashion', 'men', 'brand', 'men's fashion', and 'discount' had a high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed four significant groups: 'fashion item and style', 'fashion show', 'purchase', and 'situation'. 3) Before the outbreak of the pandemic, men were interested in suits to wear to the office, daily look, and fashion shows in Milan and Paris. They often purchased menswear in multi-brand and open stores. However, they were more interested in sneakers, casual styles, and online fashion shows as social distancing and working from home became common. Most purchased menswear through online platforms.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.55-61
• /
• 2006

China became the largest costume industry and export country since 1994. The fashion market in China has been changed from seller's market to buyer's market. During this period, brand has taken an important part. The fashion industry in China is developing on outlook, function, materials and categories. I want to do this brief research on the ten years of China Fashion Week to review the development of China Fashion Week, which is the symbol of China fashion industry. I hope it can be reference for being comprehended by Chinese and other foreign countries. In 1997, China Fashion Week was called Fashion Design exhibition. The title was modified to be China Fashion Week in 2000. In 2003. the title was developed to China Fashion Week (Spring/Summer Collection) and China Fashion Week (Autumn/Winter Collection). In the past ten years, there have been 300 fashion collections, with 600 fashion designers who joined in the competitions, and thousands of models, reporters and photographers, who took part in China Fashion Week. Recently 200 login fashion brands, 300 fashion designers, more than 500 reporters and 50 model management companies have made a relationship with China Fashion Week. The first moment of China Fashion Week- "famous designer project": paying attention to the relationship between the level of fashion designers and the style of brands. Quite a good deal of fashion design became more practical. The second moment of China Fashion Week- "improving Chinese fashion brands ": fashion show was not a kind of stage art but the business dealing for brand during that period. The situation of China Fashion Week now: Chinese Haute Couture is showed wonderfully during China Fashion Week. Fashion contest became the character of China Fashion Week. The contests were for adult fashion designers, new designers, models, and photographers. According to the development between different countries on fashion, the international communication of China Fashion Week became more and more popular and wide. Fashion designers from France, Italy, New York, Korea and Japan had fashion shows in China Fashion Week. The Chinese top fashion designers were showing their work during Paris, Milan and New York fashion shows.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.57-73
• /
• 2012

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of pleats design through the analysis of modern female fashion as they appear in the 'Collections' from '09 A/W to '12 S/S. Data collection of 1027 was done through the review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three cities; Milan, New York, Paris. Along with the qualitative interpretation of pleats design, statistical analysis of frequency and ${\chi}^2$-test were completed for data analysis. The main findings were as follows; 1. The five types of pleats design were founded in the order of accordion, knife, box, inverted, and sunburst pleats. The frequency and ratio of pleats design occurency showed significant difference between collections. 2. There were significant difference between the types of pleats and their line characteristics of thickness, continuity, length, direction. = Thin fabrics with delicate fine folds were mainly appeared in accordion and sunburst pleats. On the other hand, midium thickness fabrics were used for knife, box & inverted pleats, however, the different images were projected according to the width and the number of folds, characteristics of fabrics and textures. = In all the type of pleats but sunburst, continuity line was appeared the most. The discontinuous lines were appeared the most in the layered types and, sometimes, at some construction lines to add some decorative details or design variations. = The long line were the most frequently appeared in long one-pieces or long skirts of knife, accordion, sunburst pleats. While, the shorter lines showed the most frequently in box and inverted pleats, which mainly used for skirts or the lower part of one-piece. = For the line directions, the vertical lines were the most frequently appeared, and followed by mixed and diagonal line. In mixed or diagonal lines, same type of pleat was repeated in one design. For diagonal lines, one direction was mainly used, however, the symmetrical arrangements or repeated diagonal pleats in various directions also used. In mixed lines, the type of one or two diagonal and one vertical line was the most frequently appeared.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.23 no.3
• /
• pp.515-527
• /
• 2014

This study is intended to develop the creative and high value-added products as well as the development of diversity for jump suit for the future by analyzing the trend and feature shown in jump suit in the modern fashion. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 351 work pieces on jump suit among those presented in the collection of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2006S/S to 2013F/W as well as literature review. The aesthetic features on suit jump design introduced in the modern fashion could be characterized as the following. First, both upper and lower garments are composed with a simple array of items and the stress was put on modernity feature through minimal expression technique. The feature of solid simplicity was also given with achromatic color or neutral monochrome. Second, the feminity image was emphasized with adoption of such highlighting items as detailed add-ons, tops, camisoles and blouses that stress the organically curved streamline including silhouette, material itself, crease and drape that enable the direct and indirect exposition of human body and the expression of smooth curve in human body. Third, jump suit revealed the multipurpose feature as item available for the diverse wear such as working habiliment, sports wear, uniform, office wear and evening wear, depending on the terms and conditions. Fourth, the deconstructive characteristic appeared through integration with various items, destruction of formative structure, non-structural shape, and ambiguity in wearing method.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.3
• /
• pp.125-134
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.22 no.2
• /
• pp.29-43
• /
• 2020

This study investigated the luxury supply chain management called 'See now, Buy now'. This has been a new way of controlling the supply and demand for luxury brands in the fashion industry since 2016. In this study, we explored the backgrounds and impacts of 'See now, Buy now' in the digital era. 'See now, Buy now' was launched by the fashion brand, Burberry in February 2016. It was the first luxury brand to showcase its entire collection using 'See now, Buy now' among the brands which showcase in Paris, Milan, New York, and London fashion weeks. That has not only caused many controversies in the fashion world but also generated followers. In this study, we analyzed 'See now, Buy now' in three aspects, economics, efficiency, and management strategy, and this was done through a literature survey on articles pertaining to 'See now, Buy now' and empirical surveys on Burberry's collections. Based on 'See now, Buy now', Burberry tried a new process of supply and sale. In the era of SNS, the spread of information is getting faster. The speed of SNS and changes in the fashion market combining IT and mobile technology are major changes faced by the fashion industry. 'See now, Buy now', a model of the new supply and demand in luxury fashion brands, should be noted as a new directional aspect for the future of the fashion industry. Since it was a relatively recent trend that started from the September show of Burberry in 2016, there was still a lack of academic discussion or prior research on this phenomenon. Therefore this study aimed to predict future directions by recognizing the importance of 'See now, Buy now' in the fashion industry. Also, based on this research, the significance of this study was to present a management strategy that applies 'See now, Buy now' to the future of the fashion industry in the digital era.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.123-140
• /
• 2007

Fashion magazine advertising is the most excellent source of information in predicting the fashion trend. It plays a pivotal role in setting a direction for the fashion trend in the upcoming season. The purpose of this study was to review by photos of the $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}-porter$ collection shown in LONDON, NEW YORK, MILAN, and PARIS during 2002-2006 A/W and 2003-2005 S/S seasons, being focused on such fashion items published as coat, dress, one-piece, two-pieces(jacket+skirt/pants, blouse+skirt/pants). In the results of this study, designers presented coat(n=144) chiefly, blouse+pants(n=29) were presented few during 2002-2003 A/W seasons. During 2003-2004 A/W seasons one-piece(n=156) was looking bullish, blouse+pants(n=34) were declining. Dress(n=149) was presented mostly, blouse+pants(n=17) was presented few during 2004-2005 A/W seasons. During 2005-2006 A/W seasons coat(n=180) was revived, blouse+pants(n=26) were presented lowly. Therefore designers presented coat(n=605, 28.4%) extremely much during 2002-2006 A/W seasons. Designers presented one-piece(n=109) much, jacket+pants(n=22) were presented few in 2003 S/S. In 2004 S/S seasons one-piece(n=167) was presented vastly different than jacket+pants(n=42). Also one-piece(n=152) was presented mostly, blouse+pants(n=48) was presented few in 2005 S/S seasons. During 2003-2005 S/S seasons one-piece(n=428, 28.2%) was presented most. And designers in these four world fashion centers didn't prefer blouse+pants in A/W seasons and jacket+pants in S/S seasons. Based on the above findings, it could be confirmed that the fashion items trend was almost similar among the four collections of $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}-porter$. The results of this study suggest that the fashion collections are the most reliable information sources for fashion product planning. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will provide for some useful basic data for domestic fashion businesses in producing fashion items.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.15 no.2
• /
• pp.173-181
• /
• 2013

This research analyzed the expression trend about the slit which composes the open space by the visual concept and then introduced the imbedded aesthetic value in it. Based on it, this work aims at showing the evidence on the slit as a utilizing tool for various design applications and providing the basic materials in order to develop the creative design production in the fashion area in the future. Specifically, for the theoretical background in this research, the concept of slit and its chronological changes were reviewed through literature. For the empirical analysis on the slit, a total of 226 designs with its application were analyzed from collection pieces in the four major collections including Paris, Milan, New York, and London from 2006S/S to 2012S/S. As a result of analysis, types of slit appeared as a slash, opening, slit, or a mix of them. These were applied to many different items of clothing, and among which, one-piece or dress was adopted most for application. In regard to space form, perpendicularity was used most frequently. But other various forms like cross and geometrical pattern were also used as well as curve, oblique line and horizontality. As to the arrangement of slit, single type was most frequently used. However, in addition to it, other types were also applied, producing both the functionality and the decorative detail such as bilateral symmetry, free irregularity, and a combination of regular and repeated layout which makes an effect of single pattern. Aesthetic values imbedded in slit were revealed as functionality, sensuality, spatiality, and decorativeness.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.7 no.2
• /
• pp.18-31
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine color characteristics and color changes of the fashion collections through 1990s, and to provide the efficient color information for color planning upon fashion themes. For this research, a total of 30,084 colors were collected from Paris, Milan, London, New York Collections in 1990s. Those colors were first measured by the Pantone Textile Color Specifier and COS Color System and spectrophotometer(color eye 580). These measured color values $L^{\ast}a^{\ast}b^{\ast}$of CIE were converted into H V/C of Munsell System, and 12 tones of PCCS with 5 achromatic colors. The characteristics of collected colors were analyzed in general and by place, season and year. The results of the study are as follows : First, the hues of purple blue, yellow red, red, yellow and the tones of grayish, pale, white, black, dark grayish, dull, light grayish appeared mostly. Yellow was shown quite frequently in spring/summer while purple, purple blue, red and yellow red in fall/winter. White, pale, light, light grayish and light gray were shown more frequently in spring/summer while Black, dark grayish, grayish, dark gray and dark in fall/winter. Second, the characteristics of colors by 4 representative places were similar to the general characteristics of colors in 1990's. Third, There were distributed widely Red, Yellow Red, Yellow in the early 1990s, Green Yellow, Green, Blue Green in the mid of 1990s, and Purple Blue, Purple in the late of 1990s. The distribution range of chromatic colors showed wide in both of the early of 1990s and the mid of 1990s for a while, and achromatic colors of grayish, gray and black appeared mostly in the late of 1900s.