• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.353-360
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• 2000

The purpose of study examined the changes of the man's underclothes from the ancient ages to the early modern ages. The method of study researched literatures and possessions of the museum. In ancient ages, a suit of clothes had the functions of both underclothes and outer garments. In middle ages, underclothes were not exposed and the importance was not recognized while they were worn to show the sense of sin and humility or to punish criminals. In early modern ages, the importance of underclothes recognized as they were exposed. In Renaissance period, the fashion of the day influenced much on the underclothes. In Baroque ages, the functions of underclothes were different according to sexes and men wore underclothes to show their social status. As the outer garments were shortned, shirt wwere also conspicuously exposed. In Rococo ages, drawers were tightened due to the influence of outer garments, men exposed their shirts to show the social status and underclohtes were usually worn to express sexual attraction. Men's underclothes had the functions of class distinction from the ancient ages to the modern ages, except the middle ages and underclothes had the additional functions such as supporting body-shape and sex attraction. The fashion of the day influenced on the changes of the shapes of the shapes of men's underclothes and the changes of outer garments were reflected on underclothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.53-64
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes of western men's underclothes in the first half of the 20C and analyze functions and features of men's underclothes. This study was to utilize many literatures in the analysis of historical changes of western men's underclothes. In the 1900's, the attached collar was giving place to the detachable, and the coloured shirt for day wear was becoming accepted. The correct wear fur various occasions was given. Double collar was the favourite for day wear. The dress-shirt protector worn over the dress-shirt front. Men preferred to vest and pants in one as a combined garment. In the 1910's, underclothes were permitting freer movement, but what was still more significant was the glowing inclination to reduce the layers which covered the body. The new conception of decency which was beginning to appear continued to characterize underclothing the symbols of social rank, expect for formal occasion, were declining. For day the white shirt was being displaced by the soft-fronted shirt. In the 1927-1930's, Underclothes were reduced in number, extent and thickness. Underclothing had lost two of its original function : it no longer preserved the warmth of the body, nor did it disguise its essential shape. Both sexes discarded the use of white underwear, In the 1930's, men saw an increasing preference for the coloured shirt. Combinations became increasingly popular and the singlet were displacing the under-vest in the 1930's. All undergarments were very commonly in natural colours. In the 1940's, for evening dress. shirt was plain linen front and square cuffs. Short trunks reached to mid-thigh, had a front waist yoke with three button fastening. Underclothes were pursued ease and activity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.111-121
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes, and analyze functions and characteristics of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 20C. This study will examine how the social backgrounds influenced on the changes of the functions of men's underclothes and how the changes of outer garments were reflected on underclothes in the second half of the 20C. In the early, the second half of the 20C, underwears of functions was continued to cleanliness and comforts. In the later of the 20C, underwears came to be seen as expressing male sexual power when it became body-conscious. By the changes of outer garments. underclothes changed the same size of proportion. In the late 1960's, the turtleneck type of shirts were copied by outer garments, and we understand that underwear can influence on outer garments. The ruffles of the 18th century reappeared in the 1960's. This reactionism of the late 20C tells us about the relation between social environments and underwear. So the social backgrounds influenced on the formativeness of men's underclothes. We understand that underwear can influence on outer garments and outer garments can influence on underwear, too. The important characteristics of the second half of the 20C were the remarkable resemblance of some styles to those of the Past and the occasional blurring of the distinction between underwear and outerwear.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.263-274
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• 2003

This study analyzes how social environment influenced underclothes and characteristic which underclothes have is associated with the outer garment and the underclothes in the Middle Ages. As a result, 1 can get the next conclusion First, throughout the Middle Ages, body was involved with the sense of same and sin influenced by the religious austerity. This mentality was applied to the underclothes. As underclothes are not generally revealed, it is recognized to be not important but inefficient. Second, in the late Middle Ages, as the outer garment reveal the body line, the underclothes are affected by it. So men's and women's distinction in the outer garment is applied to the underclothes. In the second quarter of the 14C, class distinction and sexual attraction certainly present on the outer garment but are not applied to the underclothes. The conceptions that underclothes might express the spirit of the changing times, in sympathy with the outer garment, did not enter the medieval mind. Third, the function to protect the body is emphasized the underclothing in the Middle Ages, whereas it was important to identify rank sign in the history of underclothes. Throughout the Middle Ages the underclothing of both sexes is emphasized utilitarian in (unction rather than class distinction and sexual attraction. But women exposed their body line in thin chemise to represent sexual attraction in the late Middle Ages.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.171-180
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• 1998

This is a study on the Men's Underclothes of Renassience Ages. The changes associated with the Tudor regime were sufficiently profound to afect the nature and purpose of underclothes. Ceasing to be merely a layer serving to protect the skin, they now began to assist the external costume of both sexes in expressing class distinction. In order to attract still greater attention, the edge of the shirt was ruffled at the neck, a decoration which soon developed into a separate accessory, the ruff. The waistcoat, which originally was an under-garment, was shown, when the doublet was taken off, en deshabille. Thus we see that for men in the sixteenth century the undergarment was no longer an obscure drudge, but was promoted to serve in the general mode of expressing what the whole costume so extravagantly announced ; and likewise to share in that extreme degree of the social superior. The pinched waist of both sexes was not so much for sex attraction, but to signify social superiority. In the period under considera-tion, then, from the Tudors to the end of the Jacobeans, the new function of underclothes was much the same for both sexes ; to exploit the grandeur of the costume as evidence of rank, and only by that indirect method to add to the wearer's sex attractions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.203-212
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• 1998

During the Baroque Ages, the underclothes of both sexs developed a new significance. They ceased altogether to be merely utilitarian in function, and were exploited, to a striking degree, to indicate class distinction and sex attraction. Up to this period, as e have seen, the underclothes of men and women had very much the same significance, but from now on there is a division. The male garments are designed mainly to express social rank, the female mainly to attract. The man's shirt is an integral part of the visible costume of the find gentleman. After 1660, The fashion portrayed by the men, exhibiting the shirt extruding between the bottom of the waistcoat and the top of the breeches is still more remarkable and significant. The period is important in that it was the last time that the male attempted to give his under clothing an erotic suggestion. It was their experience that silk and linen garments next to the skin were less liable than wool to harbour lice. Until the era of physical cleanliness opened a century later, woollen undergarments were rarely worn. the nineteenth century accepted cleanliness as a sign of class distinction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.783-797
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• 2001

This study examines the cultural meanings of underclothes advertisements through the analysis of advertisement messages appeared in women's magazines of Korea which are , and published between 1965 and 1999 mainly targeting the women at the age of 20s through 40s. The method of study is mainly qualitative with subsidiary citations from the results of content analysis. The advertisement messages identified in underclothes advertisements are 1) body care, 2) gender role, 3) commercialization of eroticism, 4) feminism, 5) men's social status and masculinity, 6) social issues of concern and ideologies of the time. Advertisements produce a new meaning through a dynamic mixture of the advertisement's visual and verbal factors. Such a new meaning then can become a part of culture and therefore we can obtain insights of a society culture by analyzing the advertisement messages of underclothes advertisements. Advertisements bring definite changes to the culture through long-term and implicit influences on the constituents of the culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.261-271
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• 2000

In order to investigate the function and feature of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 19C, in this study, the historical changes of western men's underclothes are compared the first half of the 19C with the second half of the 19C. In the second half of the 19C, the useful function to ease for body was important. In the 1860's, for day-shirt, the tucked panels was disappeared and the front was pain. But the evening dress-shirt continued to show an expansive front tucked. Coloured shirts was used for country and sporting occasions. Ready-made underwear was used. In the 1870's, the plain breast was introduced and the Gladstone collar was used. Paper collars and dickeys were unfashionable. The drawers was composed a gusset at the back of the waistband. The dress of one generation was became the livery of the next. In the 1880's, a new feature was one stud and the use of pique for the breast. Coloured shirt was composed of stripes across the breast. In the 1890's, height of the collar steadily increased. The coat-shirt and regatta shirt became popular. The nice choice of shirt, collar and tie was a matter of supreme importance .The social status of the white shirt was further threatened by fancy coloured shirts. The mode of relaxation affected sports shirts. By the close of this period, both sexes accepted the hygienic rule of wool next the skin.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.84-85
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• 2000

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.136-148
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• 1998

This is a study on the change of the Medievalmen's underclothes. Underclothing includes all such articles, worn by either sex, as were completely or mainly concealed from the spectator by the external costume. Throughout the Middle Ages, the underclothing of both sexes possessed characteristic inherited from earlier times. Its function was purely utilitarian. It was not used to express class distinction and only very indirectly to enhance sex attraction. The idea of underclothes was associated with the idea of the body's sinfulness. Underclothes could also symbolize the discipline of humility. To appear clad only in underclothes was a voluntary form of selfabasement often practised by pilgrims. The notion that underclothes might express the spirit of the changing times, in sympathy with the outer clothing, did not enter the medieval mind. The length of the shirt was less than that of the modern garment, especially after the middle of the fourteenth century. The sleeves were somewhat full, without cuffs, and cut straight. During the second half of the twelfth century, when braies become definitely an undergarment. In the fourteenth century braies became shorter and shorter and the shirt could no longer be tucked in but hung outside over the thighs. After 1340 the costume on the surface somewhat resembling modern 'tights', began to reveal display the shape of the male leg as a form of sex attraction. By the close of the Middle Ages, braies had become less like loincloths, and more like modern bathing trunks. The peasant and laborer did not attempt to keep pace with the changes of fashion but, continued, as a rule, to wear the long braies of their forefathers. The higher ranks how this garment reflected the changes of the mode of outer costumes.