• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.823-835
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• 2018

The body is an important object of costume expression, and the reflection of the aesthetics of the body according to age, culture, individual or group determines the form of the costume. In particular, British artist Leigh Bowery provided many designers and celebrities with original design ideas. Leigh Bowery's costumes are related to the carnival concept. Thus, this study analyzed Leigh Bowery's life and works, and examined Michael Bakhtin's grotesque carnivalesque theory. Based on Bakhtin's carnival theory around 100 works by Leigh Bowery, in the form of YouTube videos and DVD clips were analyzed in this study. The results of the analysis Leigh Bowery's body and costume research are as follows. First, this study can define fetishism as a characteristic of costumes such as body suits, harnesses, high-heeled boots, and stockings, that stress the body. Second, the character of the body is not expressed as that of an idealized body, but the fat and ugly aspect are revealed. Third, Leigh Bowery's costumes are characterized by ambiguity. The costumes blur the boundaries between women and men. Fourth, common sense, combined with normal and bizarre, brings out a strong sense of carnival humor with ridiculousness arising from the gap between reality and reality. His performance has had a significant impact on victims of discrimination or unequal treatment in sexual, racial, and age-related situations. This study should inspire many designers through the study of Leigh Bowery's body expression and dress, but it also introduces fashion icons that are not well known in Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.625-634
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• 2014

This study develops a sizing system of mass-customized male suits for wheelchair users. One hundred and three male wheelchair users' 21 anthropometric dimensions were measured to identify body shapes and develop a sizing system. The measured wheelchair users' body sizes were compared with the average body sizes of Korean males from the $6^{th}$ Korean Body Size Survey to understand the body size differences between two groups. As a result of body shape classification using the KS's Drop method, wheelchair user body shapes were classified into four shapes for upper-body (A: 32%, B: 26%, BB: 24%, and Y: 18%), and two shapes for lower-body (B: 70% and A: 30%). The upper-body of wheelchair users was relatively developed than Korean males; however, the lower-body was relatively stunted. The key dimensions of a sizing system were selected as chest circumference, waist circumference, and trunk length, outside leg length based on the correlation analysis between anthropometric measures. The top sizes were determined considering chest and waist circumferences for horizontal sizes, and additionally the trunk length was divided into short, medium, and long groups for vertical sizes. The bottom sizes were selected considering the waist and hip circumferences for horizontal sizes, and additionally their outside leg length was divided into short, medium, and long groups for vertical sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.12 s.138
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• pp.1605-1616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.

• Korean journal of communication and information
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• v.75
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• pp.9-42
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• 2016

This study critically examines the social and personal meanings that luxury consumption have in contemporary Korean society through understanding the consumption experiences of men in their 30s. Interviews with nine male consumers who are committed to luxury brands, especially those that produce suits, watches, fountain pens, and shoes, were conducted to collect qualitative data. We found that participants are satisfied with the whole process of luxury brand consumption including buying, using, and managing and try to consume the products for self-expression, congruent with their lifestyle and identity. Individuals have learned how to consume the luxury brand from their role models. Their consumption follows hybrid and postmodern patterns and combines luxury brand products with non-luxury one. In contemporary Korean society, using the luxury products is considered necessary to achieve some advantages in social contexts and can be also functioned as a sort of social signifier and self-help, as well as, a tool for self satisfaction or well-being.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.9_10 s.146
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• pp.1265-1273
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• 2005

The objective of this study is to examine the images of the current uniforms and to provide the basic references in designing female flight attendants uniforms. In Incheon International Airlines, 11 of the major airlines with the most passengers along with the highest capacity were chosen and 22 pieces of photographs were collected, two photos coming from each airline companies. The semantic differential scale has been formed by 16 pairs of adjectives. Then, it has conducted a statistical analysis using a SPSS WINDOWS that contains 475 copies of the selected questionnaires (375 of the non-flight attendants, and 100 of the female flight attendants). The following are the results and the conclusion of this study. According to this study, four main components of the uniforms of the female flight attendants were attractiveness, femininity, noticeability, and activity, which have occupied $65.9\%$ of the total variance. It was concluded that attractiveness and femininity were two main factors in perceiving the females' uniforms. According to the results of the uniform image difference, it was shown that Asiana Airline's uniform is the most attractive and Cathay Pacific Airline uniform is the most feminine. The most noticeable uniform was from Singapore airline which included cultural and traditional components of its own national colors. Pants suits of Lufthansa airline and Northwest airline were shown as the most active uniforms. There were significant differences in uniform images according to subjects' gender, age, education, and occupation. Men perceived uniforms more attractive, feminine, and active than women. People over 40 perceived uniforms more attractive, feminine, and active, and the High School graduates perceived uniforms more feminine and active. On occupational basis, Federal workers and Educators perceived uniforms more active on uniforms. Passengers who take planes once a month perceived uniforms more attractive, feminine, and active.