• 복식
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• 제60권8호
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• pp.51-66
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• 2010

This study aimed to analyze the changing characteristics between Men's Gender Role and Men's wear Design in 20th century. To analyze the representative Men' Gender roles, the related studies and literatures reviewed. Literature reviews and quantitative studies were performed to analyze the changing differences of Korean Men's wear Deign as a symbolic factors of gender role. The results of study are as follows. 1) The representative men's gender roles in 1900's~1920's were 'Patriarchal/ Stern Man'. The narrow V-zone of jacket and shoulder, high shirt collars and well fitted suits expressed the stern images of that times. 2) In 1930's~50's, 'Enervated/ Escapist Man' were the representative images. They were expressed with wide lapels and shoulders, emphasized V-zone and abundant trousers. Especially 40's style was under the influence of American 'Zoot Style'. 3) The representative gender roles were the men of 'Producer/Provider' in 60's~70's. Shortened jacket, wide lapels & neckties, slim trousers were used to express the strong & young images of Producer/ Provider during the industrialization era. 4) The representative gender roles were 'Attentive/ Intellectual/ Beautiful Men' in 80's~90's. The exaggerated round shoulders which were influenced by 'Big Look', and easy silhouette were related with the attentive images.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.647-656
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• 2003

Mass customization utilizes the new computer technologies, supply chain management, product information management, and some level of customization of the product for the individual customer. This study aimed at grasping the actual conditions of mass customization of domestic men's suit industry and the use of MTM CAD program. The MTM apparel production programs that are used by five leading men's suit manufacturers in Korea were compared. The results of the study showed that most of the manufacturers produced mass customized men's suits to supply extraordinarily large or small size suit based on the individual order. The information listed on an order sheet used at shops was not necessarily corresponding to the information in the MTM CAD program that is use for production of suit ordered from the shop. The pattern data base on the MTM CAD program are constructed based on the sizing system of individual manufacturer. The most manufacturers translated the customer's body dimensions into difference between the standard pattern and the customer's needed adjustment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.87-97
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• 1996

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 20, No. 1 (1996) p. 87∼9'F The purpose of this study was to identify the change and chracteristics of 20th men's fashion under the influences of America. The result of the study as follows: 1. England had led men's fashion and introduced new styles of men's fashion such as oxford bags, plus fours, drape cut etc. in the early of 20th century. But America, which had the strongest Political and financial power after World War I, II, proposed Americans cut, soot sit, bold look. 2. In the first half of 20th century men's fashion was no longer created by imitation royalty and students of private school. American movies exerted tremendous influences on the clothing styles. Genereal public adopted the dress of movie stars and American men's fashion magazines inspired the new fashion and generated sales. So America made a contribution towards democratization of men's fashion. 3. Automobile industry and leisure living of America changed American life styles and clothing styles. The wealthy made fashionable tours to foreign country and European beach resorts. So their casual styles, summer business suits and dinner jackets effected 20th men's fashion. Therefore America played an important role in casualization of men's fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.82-90
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• 2011

This study examines if men in the 20's and 30's have different preference for bag types according to their age and gender-role identity types in order to provide foundational data for the male bag market to segment its customers and establish marketing strategies. Total 288 questionnaire sheets were distributed to 186 men in the 20's and 102 men in the 30's residing in Busan. First, according to the result of analyzing their preference for bag types, adult men in the 20's and 30's preferred cross bags the most. It was also shown that men who are feminine or androgynous prefer back packs, shoulder bags, and tote bags to the other two types. Second, about cross bags, men in the 20's showed a higher rate of having two or three than those in the 30's. Men in the 20's possessed back packs more than those in the 30's. And men tend to show a lower rate of having shoulder bags compared with that of cross bags or back packs. Men in the 30's possessed briefcases more than those in the 20's. Masculine men had more briefcases than the other types of bags, and androgynous men tend to have more tote bags than the other types of bags. Third, men in the 20's and 30's all deemed that back packs go well with the casual style. Men in the 20's regarded shoulder bags are the type of bags that harmoniously matches all styles including casual or semi-suit; however, men in the 30's think they only suit casual or semi-suit. And it was also found that men in the 20's think briefcases are the type of bags that goes well with various styles of clothes while men in the 20's consider they are the type of bags only matching suits.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.197-210
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to Investigate men's clothing in regard to (1) the effect of wearer's age and clothing: rues on impression formation, and (2) the effect of perceiver's age on impressions formed by the wearer's age and the fuction of clothing cues. The experimental design of this study was between-subjects 24_full factorial design by 4 independent variables. The subjects consisted of 192 subjects in each of two male perceiver groups according to age(20s and 50s). The experimental moterials developed for the study were a set of stimuli al)d a response scale. The stimuli consisted of 16 color photographs made by identical manipulations of 4 independent variables consisting of 2 levels each. Each one of the sixteen sub-samples included 12 subjects from 2 perceiver groups. The independent variables provided by the photographs were (1) wearer's age (20s and 50s), (2) suit color (navy blue and beige),' (3) suit style (single breasted and double breasted), and (4) necktie color (analogous and complementary colors) . The 7-point semantic differential response scale which was designed to measure the impression of the stimuli was composed of 30 bipolar adjectives. The responses to the semantic differential scales were analyzed using factor analysis and ANOVA. The results were as follows:1) Wearer's age, suit color, suit style, and necktie color had significant effects on impression of the 3 factors (appearance·potency, individuality activity, and evaluation) partiafly. However, the suit style was the most dominent clothing cue : the single breasted suit conveyed positive impression of individuality' activity to both of the wearer's age groups than double breasted suit did on both of the perceiver's age groups. 2) Perceiver's age partially influenced impressions formed by the age and the clothing cues of men clothed in suits : the young perceiver's group was less affected by them than middle aged group.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.104-118
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• 2011

Since Sirimavo Bandarinaike became the first female prime minister in 1960, women all over the world has been trying to break the highest glass ceiling. In a place where men had been dominating throughout history, women political leaders had to find a way to look the part by wearing power suits. Feminity was out of the question until the digital era of 21st century started. The world has evolved into a place where feminity could be strength instead of weakness. Now women political leaders are showing body curves, cleavage, using vivid and pastel colors, soft fabrics, elaborate details, accessories, long and curly hair. The padded shoulders of dark coloured power suits were replaced by soft colorful flowing feminine suits. Yulia Tymoshenko of Ukraine is the best example of 21st century woman political leader using feminity in her fashion style while enacting her role. When she first started politics in 1990's, she wore dark colored power suits like all other women political leaders did with short dark hair. As time passed her suits became more feminine with light colors and elaborate details. She has changed her hair into a neat braid, based on a traditional Ukrainian hair style. She used orange color for the Orange Revolution and white for pure image. Yulia Tymoshenko's fashion style as a way of role enactment showed professionalism, feminity, integrity, and ethnicity.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 2007년도 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.359-360
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• 2007

• 복식
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• 제51권7호
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• pp.21-33
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to Investigate the value of multi-culture and to examine how multi-culture has been reflected in men's fashion. As for the research methodology, literary research was under taken to study psychoanalytical and socioeconomic contexts in which multi-culture in men's fashion has been formed. In addition, demonstrative studies on styles were undertaken through the analysis of pictures and photos. The historical range of this study is from the 19th century when western and modern original form of men's dress were visualized, to the year 2001 when the elements of multi-culture are expressed in men's fashion. Westerners in 19th century respected Greek fine arts and the desire for realistic restoration of the body of Greek hero is well reflected in men's suits. Other races were forced to believe such realistic depiction of the Greek body as a symbol of modernization. With the advent of the Information Society In the late 20th century, absolute power had been decentralized, and people in the third world have revealed the racial contradictions by realizing the concept of splitted subject existing In unconscious. In the post-colonial world in the late 20th century, the value of diverse cultures is admitted. Models come from various races in fine art or photographic work Fashion trends are no longer limited to dominant mode, and designers express multi-culture by adopting and renewing folk elements from all over the world.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권6호
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• pp.1060-1070
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• 2017

This study seeks methods to analyze users' perception in fashion designs shown in social media using textmining analysis methods. The research methods selected 'men's stripe shirts' as subjects and collected texts related to the subject mainly from blogs. Texts from 13,648 posts from November 1st, 2015 to October 31st, 2016 were analyzed by applying the LDA algorithm and content analysis. As a result, the wearing status per season and subjects of men's stripe shirts were derived. Across the entire period, the main topics discussed by users to be pattern, customized suits, brands, coordination and purchase information. In terms of seasons, spring time showed the sharing of information on coordinating daily looks or boyfriend looks, and during the winter season the information shared were about shirts suitable for special occasions such as job interviews and stripe shirts that match suits. The study results showed that text-mining analysis is capable of analyzing the context and provide a user-centered index responding to demands newly mentioned by users along with the rapid changes in fashion design trends.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the perception of men's fashion before and after the COVID-19 pandemic. TEXTOM allowed the collection of Big Data based on the term 'men's fashion'. As for the data collection periods, Jan. 1, 2018 to Dec. 31, 2019 was set as the pre-COVID-19 era, while Jan. 1, 2020 to Dec. 31, 2021 was set as the post-COVID-19 era. The top 50 words in terms of appearance frequency were extracted from the data. The extracted words were processed using network centrality analysis and CONCOR analysis using Ucinet 6. Research findings were as follows. 1) In the pre-COVID-19 era, the appearance frequency of 'men' was the highest, followed by 'fashion', 'men's fashion', 'brand', 'daily look', 'suit', and 'department store'. These words came up with a high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis discovered that 'men', 'fashion', 'men's fashion', 'brand', and 'suit' had a high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed four significant groups: 'fashion item and styles', 'fashion show', 'purchase', and 'collection'. 2) In the post-COVID-19 era, the appearance frequency of 'men' was the highest, followed by 'fashion', 'brand', 'men's fashion', 'discount', 'women', and 'luxury'. These words also displayed high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis found that 'fashion', 'men', 'brand', 'men's fashion', and 'discount' had a high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed four significant groups: 'fashion item and style', 'fashion show', 'purchase', and 'situation'. 3) Before the outbreak of the pandemic, men were interested in suits to wear to the office, daily look, and fashion shows in Milan and Paris. They often purchased menswear in multi-brand and open stores. However, they were more interested in sneakers, casual styles, and online fashion shows as social distancing and working from home became common. Most purchased menswear through online platforms.