• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.113-127
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.1
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• pp.119-129
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• 1977

It is significant for developing the future for us to know our present age. In order to preserve our Korean costume as a fola clothes retaining our distinguished independent characterisitics and to help design the tomorrow of our Korean costume playing a role as a racial to develop the world clothing culture, a survey was conducted to investigate modern people's conscious-ness and wearing practumes of Korean costume by questionaire and interviewing methods. The results of the survey were analyzed as follows: (1) At present, Korean costumes were purchased as customtailored(64.0%) and as ready-made(17.8%) and most of them were not made at individual homes. The laundry and ironing of them were carried out at laundry shops(68.8%). Considering our present economic, social and cultural aspects, sowing, laundryand ironing will not be carried out at homes again in the future and ready made costumes seen to be produced in a large scale in the future. Garment makers and laundry shop operators should be trained how to make our Korean costumes retain our traditional beauty in the course of their production and laundry and the makers of ready-made costumes must make research how to efficiently produce ideal ready-made costumes by adopting the synchro system in their wrk odisivion. (2) The age group wearing Korean costumes most frequently was the aged people over 60 (their wearing rate; 45%-50%) and the group wearing them most frequently next io the aged people over 60, was housewives(their wearing rate; 15%-20%). Excludign aged people and housewives, other respondentsdid not wear Korean costumes very frequently. Men's wearing rate was lower their wearing rate was the younger their ages were and the less their monthly incomes were. Korean costumes were used for holiday and festival(60%), wedding and funeral ceremonies (52%), visiting and working(22%), casual wear(12.8%) and home wear(9.2%). The use of Korean costumes as casual and home wears, was lower than the use for holday, festival, visiting and working, Under our present circumstances in which our Korean people use both Western style clothes and Korean costumer, our Korean costume has lostits position as a basic and necessary requiement in Korean people's daily life and become a ceremonical and fancy costume. It is natural that the times and life change everything in our daily life. Our costume has to be made as good ceremonial and fancy clothes satisfying modern sensibility according to its new role. In order for us to get close with our clothes, a keen study must be carried out to cleat the color, material, style, function and harmony of the Korean costume matching the of the times. (3) The 47.8% of the respondents answered that they were proud of our Korean costume as our folk clothes, 47.6% replied that thought them just common and 1.1% responded that they were ashamed of it. Most of them were affirmative in feeling pride with our Korean costume. (4) Considering the functional aspect of Korean costumes, their strong points were symetric beauty, rhythmical beauty, unity feeling, harmonical beauty and detailed decorations. Their common shortcomings were lack of individuality and inadequateness for active life. The shortcomings of woman costumes were suppressing breast, making resperation difficult and in adequnteness in summer time. The main reason not to wear our Korean costumes, was due to the fact that they are incomvenient for active life. As a measure to eliminate such shortcomings, 1) the suspension system of skirt to remove the suppression of breast should be generally adopted. 2) they should be simplified in their structure to make them convenient for active life and adepuate in wearing them in hot weather in an extent to which the traditional beauty of the costume may not be lostand 3) a new technique must be explored for showing individuality by wearing method and new arrangment of colors and decorations. (5) The reasons desiring to wear Korean costumes were classifide as follows: A. Korean costumes are our traditional clothes(43.4%). B. Korean costumes are noble and beautiful(26.8%). C. They are accustomed to wear Korean costumes by habit(19.5%). D. Korean costumes are necessary for attending ceremoneis(9.5%). E. Miscellaneous reasons(0.8%). Classifying these reasons into age groups, the high age group over 40 wore them because they were easy to wear by habit and the low age group of 10-30 never thought that they were east to wear by habit. Considering that even those who were accustomed to wear Korean costumes showed a low wearing rate and that the young generation were accustomed to wear Western style clothes rather than Korean costumes, the wearing rate of Korean costumes will be reduced in the future if such trend continues. It is urgent for us to make our best efforts in order to enhance the interest of young generation in Korean costumes and not to make them lose the strong points of Korean costume in the future. (6) Conicering the plan of the respondents on what kind of clothes they were going to wear in the future, among the age group over 50, those who wanted to wear only Korean costumes were 24.8%(men) and 35.1%(women), those who wanted to wear 49.7%(men) and 47.4(women), those who wanted to wear chiefly Western style clothes were 20.7% (men) and 14.4%(women) and those who wanted to wear only Western style clothes, were 2.4% (men) and 2.1%(women). This shows that the general tendency to wear only or chiefly Korean costumes is more prevalent than that to wear only Western style. Among the age group under 50, the tendency to wear Western style clothes was conspicuous and most of the respondent answered that they would wear chiefly Western style clothes and Korean costumes occasionally. Only 5.4% of the respondent answered that they would wear only Western style clothes and this shows that meny respondents still wonted to wear Korean costumes. Those who wanted their descendants to wear what they desire, were 50.1%(men) and 68.8% (women) and those who wanted their descendants to wear Koran costumes occasionally, were 85.8%(men) and 86.3%(women). This shows that most of respondents wanted their descendants to wear Korean costumes. In order to realize, it is necessory for us to make ourdescendants recognize the preciousness of our traditional culture and modify our Korean costumes according to their taste so that they may like wearing them.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.760-775
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• 2014

In the era of 2.0 web, blog has become the media that men can express themselves with fashion more actively and independently, as paying much attention to their personal appearance and cultivating an upscale lifestyle. They often create their fashion images in the virtual space where enables a free and creative operations of self-expression. The study aims to identify the types of men's ego-images represented on the personal fashion blogs based on the framework of analysis from the previous research (Suh, 2014), to build the base data for analyzing men's fashion style in $21^{st}$21st century that reflects changes in men's sexual images, and to verify the framework as comparing with the previous case study about the women blogs (Suh, 2014). The case studies conducted 5 men's personal blogs such as bryanboy, iamgala, little fashionisto, katelovesme, and stylentonic. The study results almost same types of women's ego-images as following. The imaginary ego-image is classified as narcissism, regression, identification, and virtuality, the social ego-image as symbolism of roles and others'desire, the real ego as primary instinct, practical reality, object a, jouissance and sexual perversion. The personal style of men shown on the fashion blogs appears as a significant factor to analyze male customers in the growing men's beauty and fashion market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.51-74
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W. The specific questions of this research are as follows: what are the important design features of the Dries Van Noten's Mixed collections from 1985 S/S to 1991 F/W? What are 'the roots of inspiration' of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections from 1992 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How can the roots of inspiration be categorized and what are its features? How did these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a reference of how ideas turn to practical works, and what the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing the content. To conclude, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections can be classified into nine categories: 'Interpretation', 'Ethnic', 'Multiple Contents', 'Subculture', 'Region', 'Artist', 'Fashion Item', 'Sports', and 'New Trend'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, England, Italy, French chic, inquiry of ethnic, artist, sports, the neuter gender image, 1950's, 1960's & 1970's trend & style of street fashion, elegance for men, romanticism, zoot, rock 'n' roll, teddy boy, mods, punk, new romantic and 19th century's Anglo-Saxon style are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identity of Dries Van Noten's Men's collections are cross culture contents and harmony of the old generation and new generation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.18-29
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• 2014

Modern male has displayed an increased desire to express their social influence and image, and the male fashion market has had to provide various styles and images to fill these needs. The current domestic menswear market, however, is unable to satisfy the needs of male consumers who have a need for diversity in a rapidly changing society; more segmented fashion images and styles are needed. The purposes of this study are to classify fashion images and to establish character of the types. This study was done by performing a literature review and a survey. This study proposed 10 categories of fashion style images. Men's fashion style is classified into the classic image, sophisticated image, urban casual image, chic modern image, mods modern image, basic casual image, ethnic image, avant-garde image, active & outdoor image, and street-kitsch image. In the case of the classic images, common in formal setting, men's formal wear is the main focus with the classic suit. The sophisticated image is that of a colorful formal wear seasoned with elegance. Urban casual image is contemporary image, and therefore is meant for city life wear. Chic and modern image conveys an urban image by seeking a simple and chic feel. Mods modern image is retro yet dandy, giving off a sense of youthfulness compared to the other classic images. Ethnic image expresses the exotic quality of folklore as the main representatives of the character casual wear. Avant garde image portrays strong character casual wear with oversized silhouettes or exaggerated details. Active & Outdoor image is leisure life wear conveying active, functional images. Street Kitsch image is men's street casual wear with graphic patterns such as pop art and graffiti. This study's significance lies in its presentation of fashion style data, which can be utilized in the design and marketing of fashion targeted to males.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.136-145
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• 2009

Growing needs of reducing energy consumption and enhancing creative thinking brought expanding of men's business wear market into more trendy and casual sector. As fashion trend of men's business wear has changes to casual jackets, there is need to study for the inner structure of casual jacket. The inner structure of casual jackets are different from conventional tailored jackets so that they can provide more comforts, functionality and characteristic style. The purpose of this study is to find out how the inner structure of casual jackets are made up by comparing jackets of various brands. In order to categorize the construction methods, where, how and what kind of lining, interlining, sleeve heads and shoulder pads are applied were studied. Although there are considerable varieties in making up methods, it could be concluded that casual jackets have lighter and less time and labour consuming inner structure, i.e. partial linings, fusible inter-linings, ready made sleeve heads and shoulder pads.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.125-135
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• 2015

This study is a theoretical research based on previous domestic and international researches. The case study proceeded by collecting images from periodicals such as International Men's magazine GQ, First of all website(www.style.com) and Vogue website(www.vogue.com) were viewed. The images were selected had shapes, colors, and motives with Japanese aesthetic traits from Comme des Garçons' men's Collections of 2011 F/W to 2016 S/S. The purpose of this study is to find out the possible sources of forms and expressive methods of future fashion through Japanese traditional aesthetics of Rai Kawakubo's fashion world. Designers are expected to continue on using traditional aesthetic beauties of other countries as sources of modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.150-163
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• 2015

Due to desire for more variation from male consumers within the men's fashion market in Korea, there has been an ongoing development of departmentalization of fashion styles. The Generation-X man, in particular, is the most active member of our current day society, and will be the principal agent in the senior market from here on forth. Thus, this study categorized their preferred fashion styles, and will seek to analyze the behaviors related to the pursuit of clothing of the Generation-X man. The qualitative investigations of the Q-method as well as the quantitative investigation of the SPSS 12.0 were used in conjunction as the method of study. Additionally, images and types resulting from the preceding first-year study entitled "The Type and Characteristics of the Modern Men's Fashion Images" were utilized as part of the surveys. As a result of the Q-method, which was used to derive the preferred fashion styles of the Generation-X man, they were classified into three categories: the classic suit preferring 'conservative class type', the polished, comfortable style preferring 'modern sophisticated type', and the adventure and variety seeking 'uninhibited individualistic style'. After analyzing the factors which influence clothing preference behaviors of these men, a total of seven causes were drawn from the results, including: conservative indifference to fashion, others conscious pursuit of fashion, the aim to show off brand name products, high involvement in the aspect of design, pursuit of TPO, pursuit of self-image, and conformity to fashion. The elements that revealed differences in the behaviors in pursuing clothing within the preferred fashion style types of the Generation-X man included the conservative indifference to fashion, and others conscious pursuit of fashion, which therefore shows that rather than enjoying the fashion lifestyle, these men possess a more conservative disposition instead.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.391-404
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to identify the consumers' demands on functional design of sports climbing pants. Data were collected through a field survey. 82 male and 70 female amateur sports climbers in Seoul participated. The questionnaires measured aspects of functional design in sports climbing pants, specifically motion adaptability, comfort and aesthetic value of the climbing pants. The results of this study show that comfort during climbing postures was the most important value of the climbing pants. The subjects sought motion adaptability at the hip, crotch, thigh and knee. The preferred style and degree of fit of climbing pants were differed according to gender. Men preferred loose or semi tight fit style climbing pants but women preferred the leggings style of the sport pants. The soft touch seam line and body shaping function were also important for women. The type of pants preferred for sports climbing also differed by the climbing experience period. Men began to wear the outdoor mountaineering style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for 6 months and to wear the climbing expert style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for a year. Most women wore leggings style sports pants from the beginner stage. This study also analyzed Korean market trend in 2016~2017 F/W for sports climbing pants design. The men's pants were more likely to be designed to improve mobility compared to the women's pants, even though the aesthetic value of the sports climbing pants was important for women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.77-85
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• 2003

The following results are from a research on the influences of the political parties on the fashion styles. which political power was strugg1ed with each other were one of the political Phenomena featuring Chosun Dynasty. Partisan fashion styles are mainly divided into two groups : NohRon (노론) and SohRon (소론). Nonetheless. NmIn (남인) also shows several unique traits. BukIn (북인). however, does not seem to be retaining any unique styling features. which believed to be caused by lack of political Power. The style of NohRon represents the status of a ruling party, which generally had abundant resources and the image of a conservatism. On the contrary, with SohRon's style, swiftness and reform-minded images could be found. Moreover, the NohRon's style is generally known to present, as the representing the way of noble men of Chosun Dynasty wore in the past. The reason seems to have stemmed from its status as the last ruling party in Chosun Dynasty. Thus, many people of the age mimicked the style, and it gained general acceptance in turns. Consequently, it is still deemed as the prevalent style of Chosun Dynasty.