• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.75-87
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• 2002

The nineteenth century was a watershed - the extreme point of difference in the style of fashion dress and in the roles men and women played in society. This conviction has its roots in the socioeconomic changes of the 19th century and the industrial revolution, and the new working bourgeoisie' value, fashion and taste were on the rise. The bourgeois, who was not considered as having infallible taste, was looking for its own style, while on the other hand it was competing with the nobility. Therefore bourgeois' own etiquette and taste were appeared. There was ideals which the middle classes were hungry for, and it became the basis of judging an individual. The bourgeois tried to get social approval and used fashion was the mean of it. Bourgeois women fashion has a funtion as a complete symbol of the status, wealth and leisure in a patriachal society. Not only the Bourgeois tried to control themselves and to achieve the virtue of moderation, chastity and obedience by the restrictive costume, but also extravagant and cumbersome dresses has a kind of compensative funtion against a sober and simple men's dress. There was a reformative movement to break out of the legal, economic and social restrictions within the confines of respectable Victorian Society. The process of reform was long and slow for not only did laws be changed but the barriers of prejudice in a society convinced of man s mental and physical superiority had to be overcome. But even though there were many difficulties, a small number of progressive women challenged the social recognition and role of women and decisively refused the restrictive and ostentative fashion. Victorian costume was also criticized in the medical and aesthetic aspect for their impracticality. As a result, more funtional and practical women's clothes has appeared, but it have resulted in a peculiar hybrid of traditional female attire in combination with the more uncomfortable aspects of men's clothes. However it was becoming an essential look for new women who were the equals of men and wanted to be treated as such.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.1-15
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the perception of men's fashion before and after the COVID-19 pandemic. TEXTOM allowed the collection of Big Data based on the term 'men's fashion'. As for the data collection periods, Jan. 1, 2018 to Dec. 31, 2019 was set as the pre-COVID-19 era, while Jan. 1, 2020 to Dec. 31, 2021 was set as the post-COVID-19 era. The top 50 words in terms of appearance frequency were extracted from the data. The extracted words were processed using network centrality analysis and CONCOR analysis using Ucinet 6. Research findings were as follows. 1) In the pre-COVID-19 era, the appearance frequency of 'men' was the highest, followed by 'fashion', 'men's fashion', 'brand', 'daily look', 'suit', and 'department store'. These words came up with a high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis discovered that 'men', 'fashion', 'men's fashion', 'brand', and 'suit' had a high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed four significant groups: 'fashion item and styles', 'fashion show', 'purchase', and 'collection'. 2) In the post-COVID-19 era, the appearance frequency of 'men' was the highest, followed by 'fashion', 'brand', 'men's fashion', 'discount', 'women', and 'luxury'. These words also displayed high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis found that 'fashion', 'men', 'brand', 'men's fashion', and 'discount' had a high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed four significant groups: 'fashion item and style', 'fashion show', 'purchase', and 'situation'. 3) Before the outbreak of the pandemic, men were interested in suits to wear to the office, daily look, and fashion shows in Milan and Paris. They often purchased menswear in multi-brand and open stores. However, they were more interested in sneakers, casual styles, and online fashion shows as social distancing and working from home became common. Most purchased menswear through online platforms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.239-259
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• 1996

This research is to observe background of origination and process of changing style for men's suits and also to observe the root of aes-thetics which has made the changing style be maintained for nearly 200 years. The aesthetic characteristics are 1)The revival of the Neo-Classicism beauty in the 18th century could be regarded as the root of incipient style of the modern men's suits design. And the cutters recreated ancient nude hero which was an object of envy at that time and also reproduced men's suits through modifying the existed suits to make the ancientnude conform with the sewing regulations in order to describe and convey the perfect image of gender,. 2) The cutter who pursued merit of the classicismic aesthetics in the late 18th cen-tury artistically upgraded English rough country coat to keep pace with Nordic coat style of netherland Russia Germany while in constrast with the coat style mode which was in fashion in France and Italy then And also they changed the English country coat to a noble natural clothing structure in relation to ancient sculpture to keep the English tradition. 3) Im the 18th century Neo-Classicism art emphasized transparent and monochromatic beauty and thus color was limitedly used. In the use of the limited color however ancient aesthetical simple purity was well described within the more realistic outline. In those days the cutter who admired the English neo-Classicism removed color-luster and preferred colorless finished dimly and transparently. And thus color of the men's suits become to be also dim colored in los brightness. This means that it did not express pure beauty but brought such effect of the Classicism beauty that the nude itself was figured out.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2001

The objective of this study is to research the costume of Three Han to be recorded in -$\ulcorner$Samkukgy$\urcorner$ Tongyjeon. They were written tattoos, broad head, physique, hair style, dress. accessories-lnsu, beads, head dress, shoes and cloths in Tongy-jeon. The results of this study are as fellows: Tattoos were common in Three Han. Those may be carved by chinese ink on body except a face. Broad head was Byonhan and Jinhan s customs. The physique of Mahan and Byonhan s men was tall and big. The hair style was just topknot not to put on a hat in Mahan, long hair In Byonhan and short hair for slaves in Jinhan. And then tattoos, flat head and skull, long hair style were the southern style. The dresses were two piece style-po and trousers. The shoes were made of leather. Those were the northern style. Eui-Chek, In-Su were royal gift of china. And they put valuable on beads, not gold, silver and golden embroidery cloths. This was different from other countries, And so we can find the variety of cultures at that time. The varieties came from the southern, northern, china and unique style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.19-32
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• 1999

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Dan dynasty has been 10-parts dancer and musician group for courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 2. Except ceremonial dance and music common dance and musics performed it in front of common peaples meetings. 3. After unification of Dang dynasty many commercial men and artist come frome western of China threfore influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peaples costume without concern of that one's social position. 4. As the people who lived in thewest areas of old china there characterestics of the costumes are open breast jacked breast laped long skirt long scarf long boots narrow sleeve jackets patterend textilles(for womens) round neck narrow sleeved one-pies dress belt, long boots. patterend textiles(for mens). 5. Dancer's Costumes mode are as follows: 1) For females : high hair style, Twin 'high hair style. jewrery decorated hat bird's hair decorated cap. ribons. 2) For mens: Bok-doo. Hokongdu 6. Except traditional old china dancer dress they have many interested dancer dress for instance dang dynasty's 'Ye-sang woo yui dnace' dancer dress is very elegant and interested hip level jacket has peacoak wing shaped sleeves and long skirt has try angles shape attached apron this dancer dress begins wi-jin nam·book-dynasty. 7. Men dancer dress is just head cap bok doo long narrow sleeved one-pies dress.

• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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• 2005.06a
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• pp.77-78
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.67-80
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• 1998

Being located in the east of the Mediterranean Sea, Cyprus used to play a bridge role of cultural exchanges between the East and the West during period of being occupied. As a consequence the fact that the style of costume might be changed at certain levels during the time is broadly accepted. Basic structure of Cypriot men's clothes during the late of the 19th century to the middle of 20th century is composed of\circled1 baggy trousers(vraka) \circled2 shirt(chemise) \circled3 jacket(ziboune/zibouna) \circled4 waistcoat(yilekko) \circled5 headdress(fez, kourouklin) \circled6 accessories. General composition of women's wear is \circled1 pantaloons(vrandzin) \circled2 shift(poukamiso) \circled3 outer garment(sayia, foustani, Amalia, costume) \circled4 waist kerchief(mandili tis koxas)\circled5 boots(podines)/pumps(goves) \circled6 scarves and accessories. As reviewed above, although men's clothes are still worn on a day to day basis, women's wear continues to exist only for festivals or as a tourist attraction. It was understood that this was an accepted consequence of 20th century modernization and reformation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.203-219
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• 2007

The education chance and job opportunity of women have increased in the 19th century. Also, women tried to get the right and chance equal to men in this period. Therefore, the population of women participating in the sports have increased. And comfortable and practical pantaloons which men have been wearing were suggested to women. This study investigated the characteristics and change of women's sports wear relating to social change in the 19th century. The results of this study were as follows: 1. According to the social change, women participated in the sports activities with the opportunity equal to men, and the appropriate women's sports wear was needed. 2. Pantaloons which were suggested as the clothing reform movement became popular with the development of sports wear. 3. Simple, effective, comfortable and easy style sports wear was preferred. 4. Women accepted men's sports wear positively. 5. The women's sports wear varied according to the various kinds of sports. 6. The healthful design was preferred and harmful design was excluded. 7. Underwear was improved functionally and simplified. 8. The main materials were flannel, wool, tweed, homespun and serge, and the mail colors were brown, dark blue, gray and black.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.33-44
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the style and the color of jacket, the style of shirt, and stimulus-manufacturing method on men's image perception. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used, and the experimental design was $2{\times}2{\times}2{\times}2$ (jacket style${\times}$jacket color${\times}$shirt style${\times}$stimulus-manufacturing method) factorial design. Computer simulation picture and photograph were used for stimulus-manufacturing method. Subjects were 377 women in the metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$-reliability coefficient, and three-way ANOVA. The men's image derived five dimensions by factor analysis; neatness, ability, activity, individuality, and sociability. Tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in ability, individuality, and sociality than jumper with jean pants, and jumper was evaluated higher than tailored jacket in activity. The indigo jacket was evaluated lower in individuality in the picture stimuli than in the photograph stimuli. The beige tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in activity than indigo tailored jacket. However, the indigo jumper was evaluated higher in activity than beige jumper. Dress shirt under the tailored jacket was evaluated higher in ability and individuality than T-shirt under the tailored jacket. T-shirt under the jumper was evaluated higher in activity than dress shirt.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.18-29
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the formative beauty of metro sexual expressed on the 21C men's fashion. in 21C, metro sexual is being accepted as an object to lead the world consumption culture, and it is said to be most appropriate to the definition as a model that can determine the most modern men. Moreover, with well being life style, it shows characteristic that expresses chic sense through fashion. The results of the study were as below. 1. In recent men's wear, sensory feminine that looks young and trendy is being presented through clothes, rather than the image of men who are strong. Therefore, by wearing splendid flower print, bold color and gorgeous accessories, men send off their attractions. 2. The recent body king syndrome gave new aesthetic value on men's body. Therefore, men's body is becoming cultural icon of metro sexual as another face that shows social status and cultural taste. 3. The men's image of metro sexual that is felt from softer skin and hair than women, and well-built body is appealing more through body conscious look. Here, men's body silhouette is being sublimated aesthetically through design with various materials such as see-through and leather etc., and this is body conscious image that can be seen only in metro sexual. Like this, metro sexual fashion sense was expressed by feminine softness sometimes, and beautiful body silhouette sometimes by expressing one's sexiness enough, being away' from conceptual masculine. Therefore, the appearance of metro sexual can be understood that men's body exposure is becoming a social virtue that expresses beauty.