• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.101-115
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to define women's classic tailored suits surviving, despite current millennial impulses tend toward disintegration in style. Through documentary study, the reason which women had chosen the mannish tailored suits instead of sumptuous dresses in the 20th century beginnings is considered carefully. Also, examining the process of transition of women's classic suits makes it possible to infer the aesthetic characteristics of them. According to study, women had began to wear tailored suits acquiring physical comfort and the equality of the sexes. In the early stage, women imitated men's tailored suits in order to show seriousness, intelligent, capability for social success. However, in accordance with the advance of women's social position women modified it to suits themselves to present intrinsic feminity as well as masculine values. By staying the basic form, classic tailored suits have undergone constant internal changes in relation to sexuality. The aesthetic properties of women's classic tailored suits can be inferred as moderation, dualism, and versatility. In conclusion, the credibility with own authority and the evolutionary character inhering in the classic tailored suits could explain the continuity of them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.141-157
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• 2001

It has been since 15 century when Ainu realized themselves as a race. Their folk culture had been formed with the effect of East-northern Asia and cultural exchange with Japanese through the northern trade during 17 -18 centuries. It can be ascertained from the typical festival food and clothing. clothing style and the ornaments of Ainu people. The basics of Ainu people are composed of an unfolding clothes which men and women had wort in one-piece style even though they had lived in the northernmost cold climate. Atousi is their typical clothing which had been made of the grass fiber. Ainu people had imported the old cotton clothes from the trading with the mainland roughly in the late E-do (late 18 century). Ainu's clothing is divided broadly into Aiusi and Moreu pattern. Ainu people had decorated their back, shoulder, collar, burial clothes, waist and hem by changing and mixing them. These are the expression of their desire to prevent themselves from the wicked plot or the devil. There is no similar Ainu patterns or skill in Kimono, while it is known to be rather related to the area of Amur River, Sakhalin, and the distant Mongolia. Therefore, the traditional pattern of Ainu should be the continental conception which had been skilfully shaped through the trading with the north adding the series of Ainu People.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.56-69
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• 2006

The purposes of this study were to identify cosmetics purchasing behavior according the 20-30 year old men's lifestyle. The results were as follows; 1. The factors of men's lifestyle were sense of fashion, participation of social activities, use of web-based information, sense of androgyny, economical efficiency, provision of web-base information, sport activities, and pursuit of change, and they were segmented into a passive stagnant group, a economic web-base information utilizing group, a positive social activity participation group, and a sensitive appearance change pursuit group. 2. Passive stagnant group used less information sources patronized cosmetics specialty store, did not select their cosmetics by themselves, and spent less for their cosmetics. Economic web-base information utilizing group used information sources positively, patronized cosmetics discount store or internet shopping, and spent less for cosmetics. Positive social activity participation group patronized cosmetics specialty store or discount store, but did not select cosmetics by themselves. Sensitive appearance change pursuit group patronized department store or internet shopping for cosmetics, selected cosmetics by themselves, and spent more. 3. Passive stagnant group showed a tendency of older, less educated, and lower incomes, but economic web-base information utilizing group were among the age of 20's, lower educated, and the unmarried with average incomes. Positive social activity participation group showed a tendency of older, highly educated, and the married with jobs, but sensitive appearance change pursuit group were among the age of 20's and university students with more incomes and pocket money.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.205-224
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• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the thirty pictures of Bud-dha to hang on the wall among the existing Buddist paintings. The costume to study were made about 64 years during the King Chung-yol(1286) to the King Chung-jong(1350) which style was mostly related in Won Dynasty. 가) Men's wear ; 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan Kun and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knot-s, and tied up with a hair ribbon, A kinds of Kuan-mo were Mine-lu-kuan Yuan-yu-kuan, Nong-kuan, Hae-chi-kuan Pok-du Yun-wha-kuan Yip-mo- and Tu-ku(Helmeto) 2. clothes ; 1) Colour of Koryo King's Mien-ku Kuan costume was not agree with blue and reddish black colour which was used in Yo, Song, Kum and Won Dynasty, however black and greenhish blue colour was agreed with. 2) The king wore T'ung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and the government officials wore Chin-hien-kuan Hae-chi-kuan and Nong-kuan as a court dress. In general the king and the Crown Prince wore a hats which was used in T'ung-t'ien system however sometimes they wore small hats which was cited in literature. 3) Gate guard and upper garment wore colourful costume figured gold colour pattern which was distin-gtive costume system of Koryo. 4) A monk wore big sleeve long skirt big sleeve long jacket long skirt and shoulder scar-f full shoulder scarf or right hand shoulder opened scarf. 5) The Soldiers wore helmet shoulder or scarf pee-back hung-kap, pok-kap, yang-dan-g-kap we-yu-kap kun-kap, and boots and they carried arms. 6) The young boys wore scarf, loin cloth, long skirt, belt neckless, wan-silk, boots and foots wear and wristless. 나) Women's wear ; 1. Hair style and hairs and tied up with a hair ribbon and wore precious ston decorated hair dress wheel shape hair dress pan shaped head dress handkerchif covered hair dress decorated precious stone hair pin silk chippon made of head dress muf-fler shaped hairdress. Boots mocasin hae lee, suk and sandle wored as a shoes depends on the classes. They wore neckless, earing wres-tless and wan-pu-sik. 2. Closthe 1) High rank lade's wore un-kyun attached jacket and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated long skirt apron back apron knot belt, scarf this type is the same with Dang Dynasty five dynasty of china Song, Kum Won, Myung Dynasty and our cos-tume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.1-18
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• 2012

This study explores the clothing behavior of homosexual men for identity creation. Since homosexuality has been viewed in terms of immoral, medical or social problems, gay males have made efforts to construct presentational styles in order to hide or reveal their sexual identities. Kate Schofield and Ruth A. Schmidt found that there were three different layers of individual gay identity construction expressed in clothing: shared gay identity, tribal identity, and situational identity. Using their framework, 630 gay men's outfits found in the U.S drama 'Queer as folk' were analyzed, which dealt with the lives of a group of gay men living in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Findings point that gay males use their clothing effectively to express their sexual identity. Firstly, they use certain fashion items as the signifier of homosexuality on a gay community level. They use their clothing to attract the sexual partners. On tribal identity level, diverse and fragmented styles could be shown besides the effeminate style. Homosexual men's clothing can be classified into the following four dominate styles: the drag look, the macho look, the androgynous look and conventional look. Findings also indicate that gay males make different clothing choices for different situations in order to blend into the heterosexual or homosexual society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.852-866
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women's fashion with the androgynous image(fashion item, adornment) which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. First, masculine image led the market in the first stage of mid 1980 in a men's wear oriented trend that the woman wear masculine style jacket, pants and blouse. In hair style, the short hair of the masculine image was used habitually but the make-up was tend to be made heavily. The ambivalence of the sex was also showed up by expressing the feminine image on the masculine image using the accessories like necklace, earing and bracelet. Second, unlike the first stage, it showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. The jacket, blouse and pants were rooted as the basic item in women's fashion. The feminine style of long hair and natural make-up with the androgynous image were increased. Third, in the third stage of the late 1990, the fashion items to the comfortable dress of light weight as the life style pursuits the activity and convenience. The feminine image were appeared naturally with a long hair style and natural make-up with the androgynous image. The remarkable features in the fashion accessories were that boots and low shoes were preferred by the increase of the masculine image shoes and the sneakers were seen a lot by the effect of the sports boom.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.111-123
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shaping process of Mongolian women's costumes, which had close connection with Korean costumes. 'Nomadic' factors of Mongol costumes are trousers and jacket, with deel(袍) pleated in the waistline for horse riding, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike for protection against the cold. However, Married women wore bogthag(gogo: ) containing symbols derived from nomadic way of life. 'Foreign' factors are divided into two kinds; foreign culture applied to Mongolian costumes(woven stuff, Koryo style), and transformation in costumes to adjust to the environmental alteration owing to extended territory(pigap(比甲), Jacket and skirt), the last of which served as the chief distinction between nomadic and Y an fashions. 'Religious' factors are unique patterns and colors while retaining their symbolism. Some aspects(mongke tengri or eternal sky) of Shamanism is reflected in avoidance of washing, while positive effect of Lamanism is evidenced in yellow cosmetic applied on the forehead and 16 sky devil dance clothes.dance clothes.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.183-199
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• 1995

Among many different approaches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by including political , militarial , economical , cultural , and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes according to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations invariety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physical activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed it role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Based on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving . Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating wit feathers . Jowoguan(조우관) is one of the examples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect , this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however men and women wear were claryly distinguished. Unlike other clothes that were restricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume . Monks wore black clothing (내의) that was influenced from China and the Western Regions(서역). To emphasize their religious power, Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of fire and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.25-39
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to look into dressing practices at the Woinarodo region in terms of ordinary and ritual clothes. Men wore Bqji(trousers) and Jeokori(jackets) as their plain clothes and sometimes Jangsam mid Durumaki(topcoat). During the period of Japanese colony, men wore Western-style clothes. For women it was basic to wear Chima(skirts) and Jeokori. And they preferred Momppe rather when in Japanese rule. In arrangements for their head, men put on gut, and had their hair cut during Japanese nile. Women laid a bundle of their braided hairs on the head or braided their hair, while married women did their hair up in a chignon during the ruling period People of the region put on straw and leather shoes, and then rubber ones since the late 1930s. Hand weaving was a major means of living for women at the region. Ramie, hemp and cotton were mainly weaved by hand. Starching was applied mainly to ramie and cotton. Glues for starching were made of raw rices, cooked rices, wheat flour or gloiopeltis tenax. For ritual clothes, especially in wedding, bridegrooms arranged themselves with Samokwandae and then Put on Baji, Jeokori, Durumaki and Danryung. But they Put on Western-style dresses as the liners of Danryung, and wear Nambawi Rather than the Samo after korean independence from Japanese rule. Bridges wore Chima, Jeokori and Wonsam and Chokdoori and covered their face with Hansam Wonsam did not be worn any longer after Korean independence from the rule. Shrouds for funeral ceremony were manufactured with silks, cotton and hemp, when the chief mourner wore hempen hoods and funeral robes, while women, Chima, made of hemp. and any type of Jeokori.