• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.397-415
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to identify the change and characteristics of 20th men's fashion. The result of the Study as follows; 1 In the period 1890's-World War I there was a display of opulence and extravagance Therefore men's fashion pursued with elegance and grace. The rise of sports and an erosion of rules of Victorian society were evident influences before 1914. So men's silhouette resembled athletic appearance and less formality was shown in masculine attire. 2. During the period World War I-1920's the new equality of social relations between the sexes had an influence in fashion. Unisex look evolved so boyish shaped became the feminine ideal, men wanted to boyish fitted leaner stylings and natural shoulder suits. In the twenties youth, who seemed to have a social dominance, asserted their own testes in fashion. New style of men's fashion such as oxford bags and Ivy League Look appeared. After World War I "comfort" is the aim of fashion so casualness was reflected in fashion: vests often were discarded and man wore a soft, detachable collars. 3. In the thirties depression marked a shift in mood from gaiety and progressivism of the twenties to the conservative, even reactionary values. The role of men and women returned to more traditional attitudes, Every men's general appearance was bold and manly: his chest was broad and well-built, his shoulders square and muscular. The effects of World War ll were not on style but on textiles and clothing construction: lighter weight fabrics appeared and construction was simplified 4. Men's dress changed only in detail and not in essence. But there was a continued increase in the variety of clothes and color in men's fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.93-101
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• 2015

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit six-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance evaluations twice. The researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores from the evaluations. The results are as follows: first, when comparing the four kinds of existing slopers, dimensions and patternmaking methods of 18 areas, especially width of back chest and side chest, were varied according to the existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance evaluations such as placements of side line on the chest, waist, hip line, measurement in dimension from the center back hip line and from waist line, and appearance of neck line. Third, the suggested sloper are as follows: the ease on the chest is 10.5 cm, 8~10 cm extends for the jacket length, the measure in dimension from the back waist is 2.2 cm, dart intake at the back side is 4 cm, dart intake at the front side is 1.5~2 cm, and dart intake at the front waist is 1 cm. This suggested six-panel jacket sloper is expected to be useful for the various slim-fit jacket designs which have the side panels.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.585-590
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• 2006

In the variation of physical properties of adhesive fabrics, the objective of this study is to analyze fitness of fusible interlining to four sorts of fabrics for men's suit with various structural parameters. Four fusible interlinings are used for adhering to fabrics for men's suit. Mechanical properties of these 16 adhesive fabrics fused with these interlinings are measured by KES-FB system for analysing appearance and wearing properties of garments and for examining the fitness of fusible interlining to the fabrics for men's suit. The variation of bending property for adhesive fabrics are found to be higher in the order of interlining 1(Cotton30/Rayon70, plain), interlining 2(Polyester30/Rayon70, warp knit), interlining 4(Polyester, shingosen fabrics with drawing textured yarn) and interlining 3(Polyester, double dot coating interlining). The variation of adhesive effect shows the same results with bending property and shows negative relation with extensibility in weft direction per extensibility in warp direction(EM2/EM1). The variation of peel strength of adhesive fabrics, woolen fabrics in the case of face fabrics and interlining 3 in the case of interlining shows the largest value respectively.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.101-112
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• 2015

Because young men's slacks are becoming more slim-fitting today, this study attempts to identify room for improvement by comparing and analyzing the patterns of men's slacks in the literature and those of manufacturers. Selected for the study are two patterns from the literature and one from manufacturers (Slacks A, B, C); those from studies are slim silhouette pants with no tucking around the waist at the front. Subjects for the Fit tests and the pattern designs were men in their twenties with average body shapes in accordance with the figures in Size Korea 2010. Pants were made from muslin fabric and the Fit tests were carried out with three subjects and a panel of five experts to evaluate comfort and appearance. The analysis of the patterns revealed that Slacks A were the longest followed by C and then B. Slacks C had the most girth ease, and Slacks B were the slimmest in both length and girth. Movement tests showed Slacks A to be the most comfortable followed by B and then C. The appearance test found that Slacks B were the most attractive, followed by A, and then C. The fits at the front, back and sides of all three pants were more or less the same. We suggest that more studies be done on pants patterns adjusting them for proper ease and using elastic fabric in order to maintain the slim fit and also to be comfortable to wear.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.996-1003
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• 2015

This study aims to examine the effects of the cutting amount at the waistline on the jacket appearance evaluation and movement functionality, and to suggest a proper waistline cutting amount when designing the men's casual jacket for those in their 30's. The researchers prepared 4 kinds of experimental jackets varying the waistline cutting amount: 0.0cm, 0.5cm, 1.0cm, and 1.5cm. The results of the study are as follows: Regarding the front view appearance, the jacket with the 0.5cm cutting amount achieved the highest score (6 out of 9). On the side view and the back view, there was no meaningful difference. However, the jacket with 0.5cm cutting amount achieved the highest score (4 out of 5). On the other hand, on the movement functionality, there was small statistical difference; the 1.5cm experimental jacket received the highest score in the most areas. This is resulted because if the cutting amount was increased, equally with the V-zone area which gives room for movements. This result showed the difference from the previous research of men in their 20’s,where 0.0cm achieved the highest test score for both appearance and movement functionality. Therefore, this study suggests using the 0.5cm and 1.5cm for the waistline cutting amount; for the jacket appearance 0.5cm is the best while the 1.5cm is better for the movement.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.117-128
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to understand changes of the current young generation's lifestyle, aesthetic attitude for an appearance, and way of thinking by making a close investigation into metrosexual, the recent mode, and find out its cultural and social implications. As a method of the study, the literature and the Internet data were reviewed. Articles from newspapers, magazines and the Internet were chosen roughly from the year 2000 to now because metrosexual mode remarkably boomed before and after 2000. Books related to the theory on the mode in a costume culture were referred. Also, articles in daily newspapers which dealt with cultural and social issues were reviewed, fashion magazines for men such as Esquire and GQ showing the new trend in men's lifestyle and fashion were examined, and the Internet providing us the latest news from cultural and social topics to fashion trends were investigated. The backgrounds of the rise of metrosexual mode were a collapse of stereotypes in various fields, spread of lookism in a visual image period, extension of commercialism, and expansion of men's character casual trend. Metrosexual was defined as an urban male with a strong aesthetic sense who spends a great deal of time and money on his appearance and lifestyle. His fashion style was characterized by slim and flowing silhouette, feminine and luxurious materials such as transparent chiffon, silk and cotton with a light and soft touch, and a knitted wear with a flowing line, a wide variety of vivid and pastel colors, floral and geometric patterns, and the decorative details like lace, beads, embroidery, and fur. From spread of this mode, two cultural and social implications were extracted. Firstly, the current young generation's aesthetic standards for the perfect man changed from macho man to considerate man who had a good appearance and this suggested that a conventional sex role broke down. Secondly, men began to explore for their own identity escaping from traditionally standardized masculinity that they had been forced to follow.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.160-171
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• 2007

This research studied men's cosmetics purchasing behavior based on the level of interest one has in one's appearance, the country of origin, and the sales promotion of the cosmetics. The study was conducted by experimental $2{\times}[2{\times}2]$ design by combining the 3 variables mentioned above. The Independent variables in this research were levels of appearance interest(high vs. low), the country of origin(Korean vs. foreign), and types of sales promotion(discount vs. coupon). The dependent variables were the purchase behaviors including favor to cosmetics and purchase intent. Two hundred male consumers participated for the study. Data analysis conducted were factor analysis, cluster analysis and ANOVA. The results were as follows. 1. Male consumers' cosmetics favorness: 3-way significant interaction, in appearance interest, the country of origin, and types of sales promotion, was found for favor to male cosmetics. When male subjects were provided with price discounts and skin care coupons for the Korean cosmetics, they didn't reveal significant differences in favor, regardless of the level of appearance interest. However, for the imported cosmetics, male subjects with high appearance interest showed more favor to the cosmetics than the ones with low appearance interest. 2. Male consumers' purchase intent: 3-way significant interaction, in appearance interest, the country of origin, and types of sales promotion was found for the purchase intent. When male subjects were provided with price discounts and skin care coupons for the Korean cosmetics, they didn't show significant difference in purchase intent, regardless of their appearance interest. However, for the imported cosmetics, male consumers with high appearance interest reported more purchase intent than the ones with low appearance interest.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.223-237
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• 2015

This study is to compare the pattern making methods of men's jeans and to analyze sizes of parts while also evaluating the appearance and fit according to a 3D virtual garment simulation. Five types of patterns are selected for the analysis. For the appearance evaluation, the study conducted a virtual clothing simulation, created a perspective drawing, and applied Clothing pressure to each test outfit. First, according to the pattern comparisons, A and D had the shortest crotch length, while B had the longest; B had the narrowest crotch width, while C had the widest; C had the greatest waist circumference, and B had the smallest; C had the greatest knee and hem circumference, while E had the smallest. Second, according to the appearance evaluation, E pants had the highest rating overall for the waist, crotch, knee, and hem comfort; A pants had the highest rating for the yoke line end and placement; and C pants had the highest rating for the side seam line. According to the correlation analysis, ease of the waist, hips, hem and thighs were important factors (in that order) in determining the overall appearance of the jean pants.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.616-625
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• 2009

With suffering financial crisis in 1997, Korea's fashion market has grown in the direction that satisfies the reasonable price and diverse consumer's sensitivity and needs. The aim of this study is to examine whether the cutting portion in the waist line is surely necessary for designing the jacket pattern in men's wear, by closely examining the effects of the cutting portion in the waist line on the external appearance and functionality given designing the jacket pattern in men's wear for the standard body type in 20s. The results of the study are as follows. As a result of evaluating the external appearance, when having evaluated by dividing into 14 items such as the whole surface, the side, and the back side, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items and, the significant difference was indicated in 10 items except 4 items. As a result of evaluating performance, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items among 25 items in the total. Next, the cutting portion in the waist line obtained the highest mark in 10 items for the experimental clothing with opening in 1.0cm. The next was indicated to be in order of the experimental clothing with 1.5cm and the experimental clothing with 0.5cm. Given seeing the above result, the cutting portion in the waist line given designing the jacket pattern for the standard body type in 20s could be known that the experimental clothing with the most excellent mark in the evaluation of performance was all the experimental clothing with 0.0cm whose waist line wasn't cut.