• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to provide for some basic data useful to production of the apparels fit and measured well for the Chinese men. For this purpose, Chinese men's apparel measurements and specifications were determined per area group(Beijing/ Shanghai) according to the Men's Wear Specifications (GB/T 1335.1-1997), National Standards of People's Republic of China. The collected data were statistically processed using SAS 6.12 for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis, factor analysis, group-wise analysis and ANOVA. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of dividing the Chinese men into Beijing and Shanghai men and thereby, setting height and upper chest circumference for upper garments and height and waist for lower garments. 2. Analyzing the correlations according to the three-fold classifications of height/upper chest circumference/waist for garment specifications, 17 specifications based on heights and upper chest circumferences for Beijing men's upper garments could be designed within the deviation level of 2%, while 15 specifications based on waist measurements could be designed (between $70{\sim}98cm$) for their lower garments within the deviation level of 4%. Thus, a total of 60 combinations of the specifications could be obtained. 3. 16 specifications based on heights and upper chest circumferences for Shanghai men's upper garments could be designed within the deviation level of 2%, while 16 specifications based on waist measurements could be designed (between $68{\sim}98cm$) for their lower garments within the deviation level of 3%. Thus, a total of 56 combinations of the specifications could be obtained. For other reference measurements, grading measures were set for each type and body part, while the average measures of major body parts were calculated.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2000

The purpose of this research is to offer basic data for study of men's suits by investigating the wearing conditions of men's suits. For data collection, a questionnaire was composed of a number of times and the reason of the suit wearing, and a number of suits they posses etc. The subjects of this research were male who aged 20-59 and resided in Seoul and the capital region. The results of the research are summarized as the following : 1. The mean age of suit wearing for the first time is 22.7 years old. The younger began to wear the suits earlier than the older. 2. A number of times of suit wearing for a week is more than 5 days mostly. Being educated higher, the ratio of suit wearing is getting higher. And In the case of job, office men, sales men and men whose job of specialization are wearing suits many a time more than a graduate student and a technician. Most of tne men especially 30's$\sim$40's is wearing the suit as a working garment. 3. Most of men is wearing jacket, dress-shirt and necktie in spring and fall, dress-shirt and necktie in summer, and jacket, vest, dress-shirt and necktie in winter. 4. As a general rule, men have about 2 suits for spring/fall and winter, and about 1 suit for summer. Also male has more than 6 ready-made suits and about 1 custom suit. The last, men almost do not use the suspender with suits.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.151-161
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of Men's Jacket design in Paul Smith. According to the Change of Gender Image. Following study comprehends gender images and the concept of man's jacket through series of collected data and observes the influence that sociocultural background had upon men's wear. A standard of contemporary men's jacket, the subject of this study, is established based on the review of literature. According to this specific standard, photos of men's jacket were obtained from Paul Smith men collection and from these data the characteristics of men's jacket were analyzed. The method of this following study was to establish a standard of data collection from review of literature and to gather 721 photos of men's jacket from Paul Smith, which consistently appeared in first view korea for 28 seasons from 2001 s/s collection to 2014 f/w collection. Design characteristics of collected data were categorized by shape, color, fabric. This study brought forth following results. Paul Smith's jacket had more X-shape silhouette of feminine image. Color was mostly low chroma of RB series, so that masculine images could be pointed out. Compared to other brands, from 2004 to 2006, more jackets with natural pattern and abstract pattern were widely seen. In terms of fabric, feminine fabrics with glossy and flexible characteristics were used.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.14-35
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• 2021

This study compares and analyzes the designs of Burberry creative directors, Christopher Bailey and Riccardo Tisci. For this purpose, 322 photographs (176 Christopher Bailey and 146 Riccardo Tisci) were collected and the data analysis criteria were classified into color, shape, material, decoration, item, and fashion style. With respect to the data analysis method, statistical analysis and content analysis were combined. First, the design characteristics of Christopher Bailey top and bottom combined bright tone, tone-in-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combination, and smart casual appeared very frequently. Second, the design characteristics of Riccardo Tisci top and bottom combined were monotone, tone-on-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combinations, and street culture. Third, the design differences between creative directors were significantly different in color, tone, color arrangement, pattern, material type, material combination, detail, top and bottom items, and fashion style. Burberry men's wear maintains Burberry's traditional design identity with achromatic colors, beige-based colors, and beige checks. Christopher Bailey's design direction is characterized by modernity in a casual mood that emphasizes practicality. The design direction of Riccardo Tisci is characterized by a wide gap between images in a semi-formal style that emphasizes Burberry's tradition and a free-spirited casual style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.923-936
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• 2012

Apparel companies define their target customers to integrate consumers' needs into their product development processes. The sizing standards play a significant role in ready-to-wear garment business. Consumers' body build and sizes are different according to gender, age, and body type. The consumers' morphological feature of the one geographical area has changed with immigration, aging, and lifestyle change. In this study the way of defining body types in the standard garment sizing systems published in USA., UK, Germany, Japan, and Korea were compared. The results of this study show that most of the systems classified the body types by the index value. The chest-waist drop value was used for men's body type classification. Women's body types were defined by hip proportion. The hip-bust drop value was used for it. German and European garment sizing systems provide a wide range of men's body types. US men's garment sizes are developed for very conservative body type. US women's garment sizing system has had clearly defined women's body types. The Misses body types projected in the US garment sizing system had changed as women's waist girth got bigger compared to the past. In 2011 the US Misses sizes were divided into Curvy Misses size and Straight Misses size by the hip-waist drop value. The Curvy Misses sizes have smaller waist girth and larger hip girth than the Straight Misses sizes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.115-125
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• 2007

A hat is a general term for what human beings wear on their heads in order to protect them from the cold or heat, to be used for ornament, or to symbolize social position. A hat represents the position of a man who wears it, attitude toward the society, and faith for a religion for males. Since men's hats can create their image and uniqueness in casual wear from current fashion items, they are proposed as a fashion accessory item of designers each season. The purpose of this study is to review hats, which are part of costume, in a more analytic method. The research range of this study is hats for men in the upper class in the 17th to 18th centuries from the history of costume when diverse periodic and characteristic costume changes occurred. In the 17th to 18th centuries in the middle of the Chosun Dynasty, changes in costume occurred as the feudal society of the dynasty had been dissolved since the Japanese invasion in 1592. Political power was established in France as the Baroque Age began in the 17th century. Since European costume, especially women's costume led fashion in France, the country represented the age better than any other countries. Aristocratic costume in the Rococo Age of the 18th century was changed to completely different shape of costume after the French Revolution. In this regard, this age was deemed to be the most appropriate for the comparison or costume. Another purpose of this study is to review the common and different features of periodic factors that affect changes in costume by researching the hats of the two countries in the same age in order to understand relation between periodic characteristics and costume throughout history of costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.722-732
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• 2006

The pattern making of the tight-fitting collars which often used in diving suits, dance wear, or cycle wear has not been fully established. To develop tight-fitting collar pattern directly from 3D images from the representative somatotypes, dressforms developed by Jaeun Jung were used. The 3D scan data of the four male dressforms were obtained using Exyma-1200. Triangle Simplification and the Runge-Kutta method were applied to reduce the 3D scan data points and to make the segmented triangular patches in a plane from 3D data. As results, apparent differences between the tight-fitting collar patterns obtained from the 3D scan data and the ordinary 2D collar patterns were found around the center back line. The curvatures of the center back line were higher in all types of the tight-fitting collar than in the ordinary collar pattern. Relative differences in the shape of collar lines among four representative Korean men were reported. To fit the curved shape of the back neckline, 1.8 cm should be reduced from the upper neckline in average. We suggested the direct pattern making method for the 2D tight-fitting collar patterns considering the 3D shape of various types of men's dressform.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.78-88
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to provide for some basic data useful to production of the apparels fit and measured well for the Chinese men. For this purpose, 389 men aged between 20 and 49 and living in Beijing and Shanghai, China were sampled to be measured for their constitutions. Then, their constitutions were classified and thereupon, according to the Men's Wear Specifications (GB/T 1335.1-1997), National Standards of People's Republic of China. The collected data were statistically processed using SAS 6.12 for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis, factor analysis, group-wise analysis. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of the factor analysis aiming to determine Chinese men's constitutional components, five components could be identified: constitutional obesity, lateral body size, longitudinal body size, shoulder and back width, and shoulder drooping. 2. As a result of classifying Chinese men's constitutions according to drop measurements, four types could be identified. Y type had the lowest obesity and the highest longitudinal body size. A type had a lower obesity and had an average longitudinal body size. B Type had the second highest obesity, the smallest longitudinal body size and shoulders/back width. C Type had the highest obesity, upper body length and shoulders/back width. 3. In terms of distribution, 'B' type (39.10%) of the sample, followed by 'A' type (29.26%), 'C' type (19.95%) and 'Y' type (11.70%). In all, the results of this study suggests that 'B' type represents the Chinese men in contrast with GB specifying that 'A' type represents the Chinese men. On the other hand, Beijing region was dominated most by 'B' type (37.06%), followed by 'A' type (28.82%), 'C' type (22.35%) and 'Y' type (11.76%), while Shanghai region was dominated most by 'B' type (41.13%), followed by 'A' type (31.21%), 'C' type (19.15%) and 'Y' type (8.51%).

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.637-650
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to examine the consumers' image and factors of wear comfort, expectation and satisfaction levels of wear comfort of hiking gear in order to investigate the consumer perception of wear comfort of hiking gear. The questionnaires were distributed to 400 people in their 40s and 50s and, 260 of which were used to data analysis. The questionnaires were comprised of questions about the image, factors, expectation and satisfaction levels of wear comfort of hiking gear, and demographic characteristics. Data were analyzed by frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, T-test with SPSS 19.0 IBM for Windows. In demographic characteristics, 43.5% of respondents were male and people under 45 years of age were at 17.7%, those between 46 and 50 with 46.5%, those between 51 and 55 with 28.9%, those between 56 and 60 with 6.9%. The results of this study are as follows. Responses of male and female consumers to image of wear comfort were similar and ten or more mentioned reponses by men were well-being and freedom from pain, stretchability, light weight, absorption of sweat, softness. Wear comfort of hiking gear was shown to include mobility/pressure factors, moisture factor, psychological factor, tactile/keeping body temperature factors. It was shown that the expectation and satisfaction levels of wear comfort of hiking gear were relatively high and were not influenced by consumer's sex and age, but were affected by the objective of mountaineering.