• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.341-352
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• 2021

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.365-372
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• 2022

Cellobiose is a dissacharide constituted by two glucose units joined by a β-('1,4') glycosidic bond that is produced by the decomposition of cellulose. This product exists naturally in plants and has been utilized in different industries as a food sweetener, and as a cosmetic and pharmaceutical material. In this study, the potential of cellobiose as a whitening cosmetic product was evaluated by analyzing autophagy induction and the inhibition of melanin production. A cytotoxicity test conducted in the human melanin-producing cell line MNT-1 with increasing concentrations of cellobiose revealed that this compound did not cause cytotoxicity at 20 mg/mL or less. Based on this, autophagy was firstly evaluated by immunostaining with the autophagy marker microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3) after treatment with 20 mg/mL of cellobiose. The subsequent confocal microscopy analysis revealed an increase in LC3 puncta, indicating induction of autophagy. In addition, autophagy was further confirmed by western blot analysis, which demonstrated that cellobiose converted LC3-I to LC3- ∏ in a concentration- and time-dependent manners. An analysis of melanin contents after cellobiose treatment at a concentration of 20 mg/mL during 7 days revealed that melanin production was reduced by more than 50%. Additionally, the expression levels of melanogenesis-related proteins TYR and TYRP1 were markedly decreased after cellobiose treatment. Based on these studies, a cosmetic cream formulation containing cellobiose was prepared and the change in formulation was tested for 4 weeks, and it was confirmed that the appearance changed to liquid form at high temperature, but the pH did not change. In conclusion, the present research demonstrated that cellobiose activates autophagy and inhibits melanin production, and showed the potential of this product as a material for whitening cosmetics.