• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.130-141
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• 2004

For a coastal or harbor structure design, one of the most important environmental factors is the appropriate design wave condition. Especially, the information of deepwater wave height distribution is essential for reliability design. In this paper, a set of deep water wave data obtained from KORDI(2003) were analyzed for extreme wave heights. These wave data at 67 stations off the Korean coast from 1979 to 1998 were arranged in the 16 directions. The probability distributions considered in this research were the Weibull, the Gumbel, the Log-pearson Type-III, and Lognormal distribution. For each of these distributions, three parameter estimation methods, i.e. the method of moments, maximum likelihood and probability weighted moments, were applied. Chi-square and Kolmogorov-Smirnov goodness-of-fit tests were performed, and the assumed distribution was accepted at the confidence level 95%. Gumbel distribution which best fits to the 67 station was selected as the most probable parent distribution, and optimally estimated parameters and 50 year design wave heights were presented.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.274-279
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• 2015

Wave data acquired over eleven years near Sokcho Harbor located in the central area of the east coast were analyzed using spectral method and wave-by-wave analysis method and its major wave characteristics were examined. Significant wave heights were found to be high in winter and low in summer, and peak periods were also found to be long in winter and short in summer. The maximum significant wave height observed was 8.95 m caused by the East Sea twister. The distributional pattern of the significant wave heights and peak periods were both fitted better by Kernel distribution function than by Generalized Gamma distribution function and Generalized Extreme Value distribution function. The wave data were compiled to subdivide the wave height into intervals for each month, and the cumulative occurrence rates of wave heights were calculated to be utilized for the design and construction works in nearby construction works.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2009.02b
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• pp.125.1-125.1
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• 2009

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.88-93
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• 1994

This study is concerned with an analytic derivation of the probability density function applicable for wave heights in finite water depth using two different methods. As the first method of the study, a probability density function is developed by applying a series of polynomials which is orthogonal with respect to Rayleigh probability density function. The newly derived probability density function is compared with the histogram constructed from wave data obtained in finite water depth which indicate strong non-Gaussian characteristics. Although the probability density represents the histogram very well. it has negative density at large values. Although the magnitude of the negative density is small. it negates the use of the distribution function fer estimating extreme values. As the second method of the study, a probability density function of wave height is developed by applying the maximum entropy method. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the wave height distribution in shallow water, and appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights in finite water depth. However, a functional relationship between the probability distribution and the non-Gaussian characteristics of the data cannot be obtained by applying the maximum entropy method.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.44-51
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• 1996

The accurate calculation of run-up heights of long waves along the coastline is important in the view of engineering. In this paper the run-up heights of long waves are estimated by using the cnoidal wave theory which also covers both sinusoidal and solitary waves. However, the generation and the calculation of run-up heights of cnoidal waves are difficult both in laboratory and numerical experiments. In this study, the maximum run-up heights of cnoidal waves on steep slopes are computed by using the boundary integral equation model. It has been shown that the run-up heights of cnoidal waves are less than those of solitary waves, while they are larger than those of sinusoidal waves having the same wavelengths and heights. The variation of run-up heights of cnoidal waves is not a monotonic function of the wavelength. However, the run-up heights of cnoidal waves asymptotically approach that of a solitary wave as the wavelength approaches infinity. The calculated run-up heights agreed reasonably with experimental data.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.258-266
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• 2017

Numerical simulations of turbulent two phase flows around KCS have been performed to investigate effects of trim conditions on ship resistance of KCS in short waves by utilizing waves2foam. The wave lengths of LPP/2 and LPP/4 with 1m and 2m wave heights were imposed at inlet boundary. The resistance reduction at 2m trim by head and the increase of resistance at trims by stern were observed regardless of wave lengths and wave heights. The hull pressure on fore-and-aft rather than wave patterns around bulbous bows was mainly responsible for the total resistance coefficients of KCS in short waves. A phase diagram of contribution of hull pressure to the total resistance coefficients disclosed that the phase of representing the maximum resistance in time history played an important role in the effect of trim conditions on ship resistance of KCS in short waves.

• Journal of Fisheries and Marine Sciences Education
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2013

The aim of this study was estimated the characteristics of the wave propagation by the water level conditions using a numerical modeling method at the Wando sea area. For three cases numerical simulation on the condition of incident and incoming of the deepwater design wave and the season normal wave, the spatial distribution of the incident wave at study area were investigated. And the calculated numerical modeling results were compared with measured field wave data. According to on-site wave data measured for 18 days, the range of the significant wave height and period were 0.10~1.14 m, 4.35~8.74 sec, respectively, and the maximum wave height were 0.15~1.66 m. From the results of numerical model for offshore design wave incident, the wave height attacked from Southern-East direction at this study area were over maximum 10.5 m because of rapidly change of water depth. Numerical modeling by three water level conditions of Approxmate Lowest Low Water Level(Approx. L.L.W), Mean Sea Level(M.S.L) and Approximate Highest High Water Level(Approx. H.H.W) were practiced. From the results for the case of Approx. H.W.L, variations of wave height at the back area of islands were about 1.6 m at maximum value for the case of deepwater design wave incoming. The significant wave heights of winter season were bigger than summer under normal wave condition, the incident wave height over 5.5 m decreased by shielding effect of islands. The change of maximum wave height at summer season were distinct than winter and was about 1.2 m and 0.8 m, respectively.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.105-115
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• 2024

In coastal structure design incorporating revetments, the assessment of wave overtopping discharge relies on hydraulic model experiments. Numerous empirical formulas have been developed to predict overtopping discharge based on quantitative data from these experiments. Typically, for revetment structures aimed at mitigating wave overtopping, crest height is determined by considering the maximum amplitude of the design wave, resulting in a relatively high freeboard compared to wave heights. However, achieving complete prevention of all wave overtopping would require the crown wall to have substantial crest heights, rendering it economically impractical. Therefore, the concept of limiting discharge has been introduced in the design of revetment structures, aiming to restrict wave overtopping discharge to an acceptable level. Consequently, many coastal structures in real-world settings feature relatively lower freeboard heights than incident wave heights. This study investigated wave overtopping discharge on rubble-mound breakwaters with relatively low freeboard heights through hydraulic model experiments. Furthermore, it conducted a comparative analysis of the predictive capabilities of existing empirical formulas for estimating overtopping discharge using experimental data.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.591-598
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• 2015

A hydraulic characteristics in the surf zone such as wave breaking points, wave set-down, wave set-up, wave-induced currents and run-up heights are studied using the SWASH model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach. Incident wave conditions is obtained from one-hourly observed wave data by KHOA and irregular wave by JONSWAP spectrum is given as an open boundary condition in the model. A Wave-induced current patterns by the SWASH model is compared with the observed currents and sediment flux patterns in that areas, the calculated maximum wave run-up heights in the model is compared with the video monitoring data, the empirical formula by Stockdon et al. and Mase. A dominant longshore currents toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident wave direction and the geographical features and some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. The maximum wave run-up height(1.15 m) by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with the video monitoring data(1.26 m) and the magnitude shows a similar result(1.33m) by Stockdon et al.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.252-258
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• 2019

In this paper, the time history of the surface elevation measured at the Draupner platform in the North Sea in 1995 is used to examine the statistical characteristics of the wave data. The wave statistics for 48 surface measurements, which contain three freak wave occurrences, are summarized. The quartiles, boxplots, correlations, and pair plots of 15 variables, along with the abnormality index, are presented. The kurtosis and skewness of the surface elevation are two variables that are highly correlated with the abnormality index, which defines freak waves. Principal coordinate analysis showed that the direction of the changes in the abnormality index agreed with the changes in the kurtosis and skewness. In addition, various wave heights, except the maximum wave height, showed a similar direction for the height changes, and various wave periods showed a similar direction for the period changes. Based on the correlations and PCA analysis, the kurtosis and skewness of the surface profiles are the two most important variables to predict the abnormality index.