• 복식
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• 제55권7호
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• pp.38-50
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is first, to see through the aesthetic essence of the clothing as art, through theoretical consideration of cultural feature and body style in Postmodern Feminism. Also, this study will examine the aesthetic value in artistic meaning regarding a Deformational body image in visual an. Second, this study will analysis the formative character of Modern Art to wear which expressed unfixed body style, followed by the change of Postmodern Feminity, as a Deformation image. This character will be categorized by Expansion, Grotesque, Pleasure, and Virtuality. The following is the result of this study. Expansion expressed in modern Art to wear created intentional structure of the form, and intentionally presented refusal of body existence through disembodied. Grotesque expressed refusal and deviation of women's ideal body style, which is defined by mannish discourse, very grotesquely. Pleasure pleasantly presented free emotion through an intentional transformation like distortion or imbalance of the body By paradoxically reproducing women's virtual body as other unfixed female identity was expressed visually through virtuality to embody post-gender.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.110-126
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• 1997

This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.461-472
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive style of radical feminism and post-modern feminism appearing on the contemporary denim fashion by examining pictures from professional fashion magazine Vogue. For this study, I investigated documents to study the characteristic of radical feminism and post-modern feminism and classified the contemporary denim fashion into erotic look, endrogynous look and deconstructive look. The results of study on the expression style of feminism reflected on the contemporary denim fashion were as follows: First, radical feminism emphasizes that women's sexual feature is never inferior to men's. Therefore in denim fashion, erotic style which emphasize on women's sexual beauty is represented by making hot pants, mini skirt, halter blouse of denim and by using colored jeans and flower print or beads on denim. Second, post-modern feminism has been represented by disregarding or intergrating the existed rule as refusing sexual discrimination. It has been represented in fashion as an endrogynous style by representing neutral gender image. Today, it is represented in denim fashion by mixing a different fabric with denim and matching womanish design with mannish design. Third, post-modem feminism are classified into unfixed expression of genders and the deconstructive expression of methodology. The deconstructive expression of denim fashion is represented by using the damage of fabric by making a hole or tearing intentionally or fraying edge of denim. Also the unfinished designs and transformed dressing are used to express the deconstructive character in denim.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.63-79
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• 1999

The essence of Feminism is to establish the women＇s subjecthood as representing women＇s sexual characteristic and emerging from the fixed idea about women in our androcentric society. Feminism has been developed in various stages : the homogeneous theory which emphasized the similarity between men and women, the heterogeneous theory which persisted in he difference between men and women and underscored womanhood as an unique quality, androgynous theory which insisted on the common of two sexes since 1980＇s. The purpose of the thesis is to discuss the correlation between the feminism and the fashion, to examine its influence on shaping the contemporary fashion, and to infer what the women＇s fashion be like in the coming 21st century. The result of the thesis is as follows : First, the Mannish Look had been developed from the masculinization of female clothing by borrowing the style of women from that of men clothes since 1970＇s. Second, the Glamor Look has been stressed as the feminism began to swing toward which emphasized the difference between men and women, and women＇s sexual characteristics from the late 1970＇s. Third, from the late 19th century, the Fetish Look is still employed in various ways by the avant-garde designers, which impowered to increase the visualization of sex. Fourth, the Androgynous Look was born, androgynous image and neutral image, by the influence of the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical aspect from the middle 1980＇s.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.110-127
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• 2015

This study probed into the fashion styling of modern girls who led fashion and revealed power of woman as the center of modernization in Korea. Methods included the theoretical study based on fashion related newspaper articles at the time, specialized publications, advance researches, and internet data and the empirical study that involved contents analysis centering on visual data, expert evaluation, and styling development and presentation. The image of Korean modern girl analysis found in the order of modern image, elegant image, classic image, mannish image, romantic image. The aesthetic characteristics could be classified into sensual classicism, modern elegance, feminist epicenism, and romantic simplicity. The theme was 'Retro Modern' and a total of 4 styles were applied. 'Progressive Tradition' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of sensual classicism and it gave a modern reinterpretation of the seamless one-piece skirt which is the modified Korean clothes of Korean modern girls. 'Luxe Beauty' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of modern elegance, and it developed the long and slim style which was popular in the 1930's in a trendy way. 'Dressy Avant-garde' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of feminist epicenism, and it suggested the mannish style Western clothes that Korean modern girls wore by following recent fashion trend. 'Minimal Couture' expressed the aesthetic characteristics of romantic simplicity and it presented the garçonne look which was popular in the 1920's by following recent trend.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.68-79
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• 1997

In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristics of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants, non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors, and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20\`s or 30\`s. Formal style is encoded as jacket vest, inner wear(blouse), two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-silhouette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990\`s, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various sort of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man\`s wear are popuar. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman\`s role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrer. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer\`s consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism, easiness and naturalness is popular.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.50-68
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• 2016

The objectives of this study are to identify the self-image and preferred fashion styles that Korean career women seek in different daily situations, and to propose a positioning map in accords with the findings. The study conducted a survey and in-depth interviews. The study used twenty items of self-image adjectives extracted from existing studies, and eighteen fashion style stimuli collected by examining women's wear brands. The study surveyed 329 career women. Their daily situation was classified into five situations; external meeting and presentation, ordinary work, wedding and family gathering, blind date or date, and meeting with friends and acquaintances. The analysis results of this study showed that self-image and fashion style preferences are relevant to daily situation. The image most sought in external meetings and presentation was the 'Elegant' image, and the image most sought in meetings with friends and acquaintances was the 'active' image. Women on dates or blind dates sought the 'feminine' image the most, however they preferred to avoid this image during external meetings and presentations. Among fashion styles, the 'elegant/classic' style was most preferred, and the 'sexy/avant-garde' style had the lowest preference among all the styles. 'Mannish' was preferred in ordinary work and meeting with friends and acquaintances, however, it was shown as having the lowest preference level in blind dates or dates. The 'romantic/natural' style was highly preferred in meeting with friends and acquaintances, however it had a low level of preference for external meetings and presentations. This study has significance in providing practical information to utilize in fashion industry by identifying the relationship between self-image and preferred fashion style sought by career women according to daily situation, and using the results to propose a positioning map.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.40-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the shirt market, to find out the shirt trend in 2005 A/W, to analysis shirt style Preference, and to investigate the shirts purchase attitude according to the income, age, and occupation of the 321 respondents, for developing the possibility & strategy of the dress shirts market in men's wear for the apparel marketers and manufactures. For this study, the data obtained from 321 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics. The results from the study were as follows ; In 2005 A/W, Countessmara, Daks, Dupont, Renoma, and Yesac were commomly distributed in 5 department stores in Daejon and Seoul. There were seen trends that were pursuing a various fabric, colors, details, and high-touch design in shirt. Men workers prefered the Basic and Modern casual style to Soft, Sophisticated, Modern mannish, and Trendy style shirt. The 133(41.4%)respondents estimated that the important viewpoint in purchasing dress shirts was 'Design. The 212(66%) respondents estimated that they prefered the different shirt brand from their suits. And results revealed that Daks ranked best brand (13.7%), and Renoma ranked best two brand (6,5%). The 103 (32.1%) respondents estimated that they possessed the three shirts per one suits. The 201(62.6%) respondents estimated that they prefered the department store for purchasing shirt. And, the 114(35.5%) respondents estimated that the first important information source which influenced on purchasing dress shirts was the store display, next was internet(15.9%).

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the image perception of dress shirts according to perceiver's residency and shirts style, and to investigate the shirts preference according to style of dress shirts, and to find out the men's aesthetics consciousness for shirts, and to analyze between the image perception and the usage of mass-media, for developing the possibility & strategy of the dress shirts market in men's wear market for the apparel marketers and manufactures. For this study, the data obtained from 321 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics, Pearson's simple correlation, ANOVA. The results from the study were as follow ; The 6 stimuli for image perception rated on 5 point Likert-type scales in the 12 features were evaluated by perceivers. By the best 3 features abstracted, shirts style concepts were decided such as, Basic style by the best 3 features of the first stimulus, and Soft style by the best 3 features of the second stimulus, and Sophisticate style by the best 3 features of the third stimulus, and Modern casual style by the best 3 features of the fourth stimulus, and Modern mannish style by the best 3 features of the fifth stimulus, and Trendy style by the best 3 features of the sixth stimulus. The modern casual style was estimated highly by respondents in Daejon. The respondents in Seoul prfered the basic style to other style. There were significant differences in evaluating between preferences of shirts style and pattern. Of the 82 respondents(26.8%) with the preference of bold london stripe, the 52 respondents estimated Modern casual style in bold london stripe. The fashion consciousness of the respondents in Seoul was estimated higher than in Daejon. But, the respondents in Daejon in the consciousness for the coordination knit cardigan and V zone was estimated higher than in Seoul. Also, the 31 respondents with the preference of Sophisticate style were the highest in fashion consciousness. The respondents estimated that the first important thing in buying dress shirts is 'Design(41.4%). and next is quality(17.8%). Results revealed that Daks ranked best brand (13.7%), and Renoma ranked best two brand (6,5%). And, the 35.5% respondents estimated that the first important information which influenced on buying dress shirts was the store display, next was internet(15.9%). Finally, I propose that the best strategy for men with low fashion consciousness is to upgrade salesmen' coordination technic and fabric knowledge, and store management with story attracting customers.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.28-42
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• 2011

Philp Lim, Alexander Wang and Jason Wu are the American fashion designers as descendants of Chinese immigrants. They had the honor of being given the Swarovski Awards- new premier fashion designer- from CFDA(Council of Fashion Designers of America). The purpose of this study were to investigate the characteristics of their collection, and offered the informations for Korean designers entering the American market. This research categorized characteristics of these designers'- whole characteristics and the characteristics of details such as formal characteristics, optimistic characteristics, tactile characteristics-, and fashion styles from the S/S season of 2009 to the F/W season of 2010 were analyzed. These young and male designers being received attention as a star, didn't make creative art pieces. But they made pragmatic, commercial, and con-temporary works in whole characteristics and succeeded in their fashion business like other American designers. On the other hand they oriented high fashion clearly in terms of the detail characteristics - their own accent color, tiny change in variety, unique material, delicate ornaments. Therefore Lim created chic and stylish, Wang made a sporty street style, Wu made a luxury style with mannish and casual through work characteristics suitable for their costumer.