• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제49권3호
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• pp.136-153
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• 2016

본고는 '장 담그기'라는 구체적 사례를 통해 무형유산으로서 음식의 전승성이라는 문제를 살펴보고, 음식관습을 지속 유지시키는 원동력이 무엇인가에 대한 답을 모색하기 위해 마련되었다. 이를 위해 필자는 서로 다른 세 가지 유형의 구체적 사례를 통해 '장 담그기'의 전승양상에서 나타나는 지속과 변화를 살펴보았다. 첫 번째 사례는 '장 담그기'의 전과정을 직접 수행하는 경우다. 두 번째는 구입한 메주로 '장 담그기'를 실천하고 있는 사례다. 세 번째 사례는 음식에 관한 이념을 공유하는 사람들끼리 계를 조직하여 매년 장을 담그고 '씨간장'을 적립해가는 경우로, 매우 새로운 음식공동체의 출현을 엿볼 수 있다. '장 담그기'전승에서 변화를 이끌어내는 요인은 도구와 기술, 생산과 소비, 그리고 음식공동체의 변화라 할 수 있다. 이러한 변인들 때문에 오늘날 '장 담그기'전승은 실제 상당 부분 변화되고 있지만, 면담대상자들은 전통적 방식으로 만든 장맛이 유지되는 한 본인들의 '장 담그기'전통은 지속된다고 믿고 있었다. 따라서 '장 담그기'가 계속 전승되고 유지되기 위해서는, 장맛을 기억하고 향유할 줄 아는 '맛의 공동체'의 지속에 관심을 가질 필요가 있다.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.53-61
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• 1997

This study was carried out in order to investigate general characteristics, sugars and organic acids contents of Korean traditional soy sauce, and to find out possibility of high quality soy sauce production in a short period through high concentration soy sauce making. In this study, we prepared three different types of soy sauce, low concentration soy sauce (Chungjang), high concentration soy sauce and Kyupjang, high quality traditional Korean soy sauce. pH of soy sauce were $4.46{\sim}4.90$ and did not show difference among three samples. Titratable acidity, buffering power and total free acid content were the highest value in Kyupjang. Kyupjang showed the highest contents of salt and pure extract. As the ripening period increased, the salt content increased in Chungjang samples, but decreased in Kyupjang. Reducing sugar contents of Kyupjang, high concentration soy sauce and low concentration soy sauce were 1.13%, 0.76% and 0.53%, respectively. Free sugar in soy sauce were analyzed maltose, glucose, galactose and fructose. Total free sugar content was highest in high concentration soy sauce, however, contents of glucose and fructose were higher in Kyupjang than in Chungjang samples. Galactose was the main free sugar in Chungjang, but glucose was in Kyupjang. Among identified volatile organic acid, acetic acid was present in the highest concentration, and volatile organic acid content was highest in the high concentration soy sauce at 150 days. 20 nonvolatile organic acids were detected in Korean traditional soy sauce. Succinic acid, lactic acid and 2,5-pyridine dicarboxylic acid were the main nonvolatile organic acid in soy sauce.

• 한국식품조리과학회지
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.521-526
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• 1995

재래식 조선 간장의 이용률은 83.5%로 나타났으며 노년층의 이용률은 91.7%로 높은 비율을 나타냈다. 재래식 조선 간장 사용의 경우 간장을 집에서 담그어먹는 비율은 60.5%로 나타났으며 역시 노년층으로 갈수록 87.5%로 높은 비율을 나타냈다. 친척등 다른 집에서 얻어다 먹는 비율은 19.1%,시중에서 구입하는비율은 18.4%로서 연령층 별로는 젊은층일수록 높게나타났다 재래식 조선 간장의 사용이유는 88%가 '구수한 맛과 향기를 내기위해서'라고 하였다. 재래식 조선 간장으로 조리하는 비율은 미역국이84.5%로 가장 높게 나타났으며, 고깃국의 경우는74%, 생선국의 경우는 40.9%, 콩나물국의 경우 33.3%,생선찌개의 경우 34.5%,된장찌개의 경우 14.5%,김치 찌개의 경우 12.1%가 재래식 조선 간장을 이용한다고 하였다 소비자 관능검사 결과 여러 시료 간장으로 조리한 미역국의 구수한 맛은 유의적인 차이가 없었으나 미역맛과 기호도에서는 유의적인 차이를 보였다. 미역국의 기호도 경향은 노년층에서 소금을 넣은 미역국보다 재래식 조선 간장으로 끓인 미역국을 선호하는 경향이 더 뚜렷하였다.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.223-238
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• 2004

In this paper, the differences between Korean and Japanese ways of seasonings are studied. The main results are summarized as follows: (1) Shouyu and Miso which are Japanese equivalents of soy sauce and bean paste of Korean foods are used in variety of different seasonings with some other ingredients while Korean counter parts are used only to add salty tastes. (2) Shouyu and Miso lose their flavors after considerable time of heating, while Korean soy sauce and bean pastes increase their tastes after heating. (3) Mirin adds sweety taste and glaze and Sake makes food soft or hard according to the moment of being added during cooking. (4) In Korean foods soy sauce, bean paste and red pepper paste are on the basis of tastes, Dashi is used in almost every Japanese food. (5) Seasoned vegetables of Korean food are prepared only with spices of green onion, garlic and sesame oil while seasoned fishes or vegetables are mixed with Shoyu or salt and vinegar in Japanese food. (6) In making Zorim, Korean traditional sauces are added from the beginning of heating. But in making Nimono, sugar, salt, vinegar, Shoyu and artificial taste are added in order during heating. (7) In grilling, main food for grilling in Korea is meat, which is prepared with a variety of spices such as soy sauce or/and red pepper pastes, garlic, green onion, sesame oil, sesame powder, pepper and sugar while mainly fishes are grilled with salt, occasionally with Shoyu or Miso in Japanese food. (8) Pan frying fishes are taken with soy sauce with vinegar in Korea but Tepura are eaten with Tentsuyu in Japan.

• 한국식품영양학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.32-49
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• 2012

This paper reviews 14 studies of the Joseon Dynasty(1392~1909) to examine the traditional Korean foods in Korean festivals. A total of 12 studies mentioned Seollal, Daeboreum, Dongji, Nappyeng as festivals involving. Traditional foods 10, Yudu, 9, Sambok and Junggujeol, 8, Chuseok and Seotdalgeummeum, 7, Samjinnal, Chopail, and Dano, 5, Jungwon, and 4, Hansik. In terms of the types of traditional foods, 13 studies mentioned red bean gruel, 12, Yaksik, 11, Tteokguk, 10, sudan and dog meat, 8, the custom of cracking the outer shell of different types of nuts, 7, Guibagisul(an ear-quickening wine), rice cakes(azalea hwajeon, zelkova rice cake, bean and turnip rice cake), 6, a chrysanthemum cakes, 5, Songpyeon, charunbeung(wagon-wheel rice cake), chrysanthemum wine, and sparrow meat, 4, Gangjeong, red bean grue, wine and snack, Jeonyak, 3, rice cakes, the making of soy sauce, Nabyak, roasted hare meat, foods for guests during, New Year festivities and rice cakes. The most frequently recorded festival foods were rice cakes and wine in various forms. This paper's review of ancient documents from the Joseon Dynasty provides a better understanding of Korea's folk customs, particularly traditional foods. In addition, this paper's findings are expected to help sustain Korea's traditional customs and foods and facilitrate the spread of Korea's food culture worldwide.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.71-81
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• 1991

This study was surveyed the Preference for the Korean Traditional Food. 500 wives residing in Seoul, Kyngkee, Kangwon region, and 150 cookers of Korean Restaurants in Kyugin region were sampled randomly. The results were as follows; 1. The concept of the traditional food was 53.5% in more ${\ulcorner}$excellent than that of overseas${\lrcorner}$, 59.8% in ${\ulcorner}$excellent and delicious${\lrcorner}$, 78% in ${\ulcorner}$the need for the partial development of fastfood${\lrcorner}$. 2. The present viewpoint of traditional food was 78.7% in preference for korean food, 81.3% in preference for boiled rice and podrridge at breakfast, Soy-Sauce and Kimchi of home-making was highly marked in 65.9, 96.1% respectively. The kinds of traditional food descended to home were rice cake (dduk), shikke, kimchi, stuffed bun (mandu), fruit punch in the order named. Korean kookies and beverage were preferred, but they were very difficult in making at home. Therefore 50.8% of the answered bought them at market. The preferred korean kookies and beverage were shikke, yakgwa, sujunggwa, gangjung, fruit Punch in the order named. 3. When dined out, 65.6% of the people made much of ${\ulcorner}preference{\lrcorner}$. In the case of few side dishes, 34.1% answered using fast food. 4. ${\ulcorner}Preferrence{\lrcorner}$ for boild rice and podrridge was generally high, but ${\ulcorner}frequency{\lrcorner}$ was low. Both ${\ulcorner}preference{\lrcorner}$ and ${\ulcorner}frequency{\lrcorner}$ of sauce and stew were high. ${\ulcorner}Preference{\lrcorner}$ for traditional beverage was low on the whole. Therefore we must activate the unknown kinds of traditional beverage earnestly. 5. The need of education about the traditional food at home & school was very high. 6. The answers of the cookers in Korean Restaurants could be summarized as; 1) The Korean traditional food was relatively excellent (54.3%). 2) The taste of food ought to be shown food stuffs property (65.8%). 3) In order to cultivate the professionals, the systematic education should be enforced.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.333-345
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• 2003

We conducted a survey on Japanese women's consciousness of food culture and their traditional food consumption by self filling-out questionnaire during January, 2000 for the period of a month, For the survey we selected 250 women residing in Kyoto, Japan. For the statistic work we used SAS package system, and t-test, $\cal{X}^2-test$ and Duncan's multiple range test were also used to verify the results significance. The purpose of this survey lies in gathering a basic data on the comparative direction of Korean and Japanese women's food culture in the future 1. Comparing the preferred food purchase place, In case of Korean women, traditional market was comparatively more preferred while Japanese women relatively preferred convenience store (p<0.001). 2. In case of Japanese women, they answered there is no difference from ordinary days on New Year's Day (71%) and Christmas (40%) while 38% answered they prepare food at home. 40% said they prepare food on parents-in-law's birthday, and 41% said no difference from ordinary days. 52% said they prepare food at home on husband's birthday. For their own birthday, 32% said yes to preparing food at home while 45% said no difference and 22.3% said eating out. For children's birthday 65% said preparing at home, 16.3% said no difference and 14.9% said eating out. 3. Comparing the conception on traditional food, Korean women answered 'complicated' (77%) most while 'simple' (5%) least, which indicates their demands for simplified recipes. In case of Japanese women, 'complicated' (44%) was most while 'scientific' (6%) was least which indicates their demands for scientific way of recipes. There were differences shown by age (p<0.001) and the older the more said 'simple' or 'logical' (p<0.01). 4. As the reason for the complicity of traditional food recipes, Koreans said 'too many hand skill' (60%) most while 'too many spices' (8%) least. For Japanese, 'various kind of the recipe' (55%) was most while 'too many hand skill' (7%) was least. There were significant differences shown by academic background (p<0.01) and income(p<0.01), and the lower the academic background, the more said 'too many spices' as the reason for the complicity in making traditional food. Generally, the lesser the income, the more tendency to say 'various kinds of the recipe'. 5. In case of Koreans, 'the recipe is difficult' (56%) was high while 'uninterested' (9%) was low in answer which showed differences by academic background (p<0.05), and in case of Japanese, 'no time to cook' (44%) was high while 'uninterested' (7%) was low. 6. The following is the reasons for choosing traditional food as a snack for children. In case of Koreans, they answered as 'traditional food' (34%), 'made from nutrious and quality materials' (27%), 'for education' (22%) and 'suites their taste' (17%) revealing 'traditional food' is highest. In case of Japanese, it was revealed in the order of 'made from nutrious and quality materials' (36.3%), 'traditional food' (25.2%), 'suites their taste' (22.6%), 'for education' (12.8%) and 7. Comparing the most important thing for the popularization of traditional food in the world, Koreans answered 'taste and nutrition' (45%) most while 'shape and color' (6%) least. In case of Japanese, 'taste and nutrition' (75%) was answered most while 'hygienic packaging' (4%) was least. Both considered 'taste and nutrition' as most important thing for the popularization of traditional food in the world. 8. In case of Koreans, they answered they learn how to make traditional food 'from mother' (47%), 'media' (18%), 'school' (15%), 'from mother-in-law' (14%), 'private cooking school' (4%) and 'close acquaintances' (2%). In case of Japanese, they said mostly learn 'from mother', but it was also shown that the lower the academic background the lesser the tendency of learning 'from mother' but 'from school' (p<0.001). 9. About the consumption of traditional fermented food, Koreans said they make kimchi (90%), pickled vegetables (39%), soy sauce (33%), bean paste (38%), salted fishery (12%) and traditional liquors (14%) at home while 67% for salted fishery and 48% for traditional liquors answered they buy rather than making at home. On the other hand, Japanese answered they mostly buy kimchi (60%), soy sauce (96%), bean paste(91%), natto(92%), salt fermented fish foods (77%) and traditional alcoholic beverage (88%) to eat. This difference was shown very distinct between Korean and Japanese women (p<0.001). 10. About the most important thing in food, Koreans answered in the order of 'liking and satisfaction' (33%), 'for health' (32%), 'for relieve hunger' (18%) and 'convenience' (17%). In case of Japanese, it was revealed in the order of 'for health' (61%), 'liking and satisfaction' (20%), 'to relieve hunger' (16%) and 'convenience' (3%). This shows that Japanese women take comparably more importance to health than Korean women. The conception of food was shown different between Korean and Japanese women (p<0.001), and Koreans showed level 4-5 of food culture while Japanese showed level 5.

• 한국식품영양과학회지
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.390-396
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• 1997

Meju is a basis for manufacturing Kanjang, Meju was traditionally prepared at home by different types of process depending on the regional area. It is necessary to standardize and simplify the process of Meju-preparation for Kanjang of good quality. For these purposes, the process of Meju and Kangjang making as well as analysis of commercial Kanjang, were compared. Generally, traditional Meju was prepared by steeping and dehulling the whole soybean. After steeping for 24hr. soybean absorbed water up to 110~120% of its weight. The soaked soybeans were steamed for 2hr. and cooled to 5$0^{\circ}C$. Cooked soybeans were crushed down to the size of 10~15 mesh and molded. Molded soybeans were dried for 2 days in the air, hung up by rice straw and fermented for 20~30 days under natural environmental condition. On the other hand, commercial soybean koji was made of defatted soybean. Defatted soybeans were steeped in water and steamed for 15~30min at 0.7~1.2 kg/$\textrm{cm}^2$. Steamed and defatted soybean was cooled to 4$0^{\circ}C$. Separately, wheat power was roasted at 200~30$0^{\circ}C$ by wheat roaster. Mixture of steamed defatted soybean and roasted wheat powder (5/5 to 7/3) were inoculated with 0.1~0.2% Aspergillus sojae and incubated for 2 days at 3$0^{\circ}C$ with occasional stirring. Chemical analysis showed that traditional soy sauces contained the following composition: NaCl, 20.12~25.42%; total nitrogen, 0.64~0.91%; pure extract, 9.47~11.20%; color, 2.34~4.01; pH, 4.92~5.12. Commercial products contained: NaCl, 15.20~17.19%; total nitrogen, 1.25~1.40%; pure extract, 18.17~21.47%; color, 5.41~21.12; pH, 4.51~4.66 and ethalnol. 2.97~3.12%. Organoleptic test on taste, color and flavor of traditional and commercial soysauce indicated that most of the consumers prefer commercial products to traditional products. Preferrable formulation of Kanjang based on organoleptic test of soy sauces was assumed as containing; NaCl, 16.0%; total nitrogen, 1.40%; pure extract, 19.97%; color, 12.98; pH, 4.61 and ethanol, 2.96.

• 한국균학회지
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• 제43권3호
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• pp.149-157
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• 2015

장류와 주류 제조를 위하여 국내에서 유통되는 하경발효의 황국균(HK1), 수원발효의 황국균(SW101), 백국균(SW201), 충무발효의 된장용 황국균(CF1001), 간장용 황국균(CF1002), 청주용 황국균(CF1003), 주류용 백국균(CF1005)과 전통 메주에서 분리하여 산업화 준비를 하고 있는 황국균(KACC 93210)의 분류학적 특성과 안전성을 조사하였다. 공시한 6균주의 황국균은 모두 A. oryzae로 동정되었으며 이중 HK1, SW101, CF1001, CF1003은 분생포자를 생성하는 대(stipe)의 길이가 중간크기($711{\sim}1,121{\mu}m$, 중모(中毛))로써 서로 유사한 형태적 및 분자계통학적 특성을 나타내었으나 청주용인 CF1003이 다른 3균주에 비하여 포자를 다소 적게 그리고 균사를 다소 많이 생성하였다. 간장제조용인 CF1002는 대의 길이가 평균 $543{\mu}m$로서 짧았으며(단모(短毛)) omtA 유전자 분석에서 다른 황국균이 ICAo 그룹에 위치하는 반면에 IBLB-그룹에 소속되어 명쾌히 구분되었다. 전통메주에서 분리되어 산업화 과정에 있는 황국균 KACC93210 균주는 대(stipe)가 평균 $270{\mu}m$로 매우 짧았으며(초단모(超短毛)) 다른 황국균이 양털모양의 집락을 형성하는 반면 벨벳모양의 집락을 형성하여 형태적으로 쉽게 구분되었고 omtA 유전자에서도 공시한 황국균은 물론 세계적으로 보고된 어떤 황국균과도 염기서열이 서로 달랐다. 수원발효의 백국균(SW201)과 충무발효의 백국균(CF1005)은 모두 A. luchuensis (또는 A. luchuensis mut. kawachii)로 동정되었으며 집락 형태가 다소 상이하였으나 기타의 형태적 특징과 분자계통학적 특징에서 서로 구분되지 않았다. 황국균 6균주는 aflatoxin, cyclopiazonic acid, sterigmatocystin의 곰팡이 독소를 생성하지 않았고 백국균(A. luchuensis)은 유해한 독소를 생성하지 않는 것으로 이미 보고되었으므로 국내에 유통되는 황국균과 백국균은 모두 곰팡이독소에서 안전한 곰팡이임이 입증되었다.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.39-51
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• 1989

Korean Chochgal is a kind of salted, fermentive food mainly made of fish in our country. It has been a suitable side'dish for the diet of rice. It has made use of an accompaniment of wine, seasoning, food of ceremony and a folk remedy. There were various kinds of Chochgal and various way of for preparation. For a long time it has developed in how to cook and how to eat. Nowaday, it has lessened to use Chochgal. In this thesis, the kinds of Chochgal and the reference frequency to them, the material, the measuring unit of material, the making terms, and the cooking kitchen utensils are studied out of the 86 books published in Korea from 1200 to 1984. 1. It was classifed Choch, Sikhae, and Oyukchang as how to cook. 2. There were 147 kinds of Chochgal, 100 kinds of Choch, 40 kinds of Sikhae and 7 kinds of Oyukchang in our traditional documents. 3. Materials were classified into main material, sub-material, and seasonings. As main materials there were fish, internals of fish, spawn, flesh, salt and soy sauce. As sub-materials there were seasoning, flavor, vegetables and cereals. 4. There were 41 kinds of measuring units. Of them, 17 kinds are for volume, 9 kinds are for quantity, 3 kinds are for length, and 12 kinds are for the rest. 5. There were 52 kinds of cooking kitchen utensils. They used mainly a sieve and pebbles. To store Chochkal a kind of jar, a woodenware and a clay ware were used. To shelter it from the wind, they sealed it with leaves and oiled paper. But few of them are used nowaday. 6. There were 209 kinds of cooking terms. Of them, 35 kinds are for the washing process, 51 kinds are for the preparing process, 38 kinds are for the making process, 25 kinds are for the fermenting process, 24 kinds are for the keeping process, and 36 kinds are for the eating(using) process.