• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.166-179
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• 2018

This study aims at numerically investigating the water-surface characteristics such as wave height distribution depending on the current direction around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters in wave-current coexisting field which has not been considered in detail so far. In addition, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy, which act as the main external forces of formation of salient, are also examined. For numerical analysis, olaFlow which is open source code of CFD was used and the numerical tests included different types of target waves, both regular waves and irregular waves. Numerical results indicated that wave height variation with wave following or opposing a current behind the submerged breakwater is closely related to turbulent kinetic energy. Furthermore, it was found that weaker longshore currents are formed under wave-current coexisting field compared to the non-current conditions, and transport flow is attenuated. As a result, it was possible to understand the influence of current existence and direction (following and opposing) on the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.547-556
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• 2007

The sediment transport by waves, wave-induced current and tidal current was calculated using the TRANSPOR2004, then the seasonal sediment budget was analyzed. Also, annual sediment budget was calculated, and sediment circulation patterns was deduced in the broad area including Haeundae beach. A sediment mainly inflows from the east coast of the beach and then moves to the eastward to the Dongback Is, where the 80% of inflow sediment transported to the eastward as a longshore sediment while 20% of them going out to the offshore at the center of the beach. Above results shows a good agreement with the sediment transport trend analysis results by the Gao model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.54-64
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• 1991

To accurately estimate the rate of sediment transport in shallow water bodies, it is necessary to investigate the irregular waves transformation characteristics and nearshore currents produced by random sea waves. Most of studies on numerical models for nearshore currents are based on the theory of monocromatic waves and thus, very few nearshore models take into account the effect of irregularities in the hight, period and directional spreading of incident waves. The numerical simulation model for nearshore currents used in this paper considers the effect of irregularities of incident waves, based on Individual Wave Analysis. The computational results are compared and shown in a reasionable agreement with the experimental data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.150-156
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• 1994

Shoreline change due to the littoral drift in Suyeong bay, especially the Gwanganri and Haeundae beaches, was investigated. Average monthly frequency. speed. and direction of winds blowing from between east and south for the last 15 years were analysed, and offshore significant waves were hindcasted using the JONSWAP model. Wave refractions, shoaling, and breaking weir also investigated for the calculation of littoral drift. At the Gwanganri beach major longshore transport of sands occurs from the southwest to the northeast and the shoreline seems to advance in the northeast while it recedes in the southwest. At the Haeundae beach the sands mainly move from the east to the west and the shoreline retreats in the east and advances in the west.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.4 no.3 s.14
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• pp.1-8
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• 2004

In this study, the change of the current in the coastal zone before and after the construction of Jeju new harbor was predicted by using the numerical model, which uses Hardy-Cross method. The numerical model was carried out for the present state, before the construction, and the state after the construction, and for the wave direction the NNW direction for winter and NE direction for summer were tested so that the seasonal change may be considered. The computation result shows that a large amount of the wave induced current was occurred when there were high waves coming in from NNW direction before and after the construction. Also, before the construction a longshore current occurred moving from the west to the east at the new harbor construction site so that it formed a rip current in the Hwabuk-dong front sea. And also, after the construction, the tip current produced changed into nearshore circulating current and a small circulating current appeared at the harbor entrance. On the other hand, at Samyang 4each, which is 3.0km away from the new harbor in the NE direction, shows that there was a longshore current occurred from the west to the east, which is in the opposite direction the new harbor, and the effect on the new harbor by sediment transport at Samyang beach is thought to be very small.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.350-362
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• 2017

The Eulerian nearshore current model is more advantageous than the Lagrangian model in the way that numerical results from the Eulerian model can be directly compared with the measurements by the stationary equipment. It is because the wave mass flux is not included in the computed mass flux of Euleran nearshore current model. In addition, the Eulerian model can simulate the longshore currents with depth varying parabolic profile. However, the numerical models proposed by different researcher have different forms of the wave stress terms. For example, wave stresses in Newberger and Allen's (2007) model is constant over the depth, while those of Chun (2012) are vertically distributed. In the present study, these wave stress terms were compared against Hamilton et al.'s (2001) laboratory experiments to see the effects of different wave stress terms performed on the computation of nearshore currents.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.436-441
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• 2020

Wave field changes resulting from artificial coastal structures constructed in coastal zones have emerged as a major cause of beach erosion, among other factors. The rates of erosion along the eastern coast of Korea have varied mainly owing to the construction of various ports and coastal structures; however, impact assessments of these structures on beach erosion have not been appropriately conducted. Thus, in this study, a methodology to assess the impact of erosion owing to the construction of artificial structures has been proposed, for which a parabolic bay shape equation is used in determining the shoreline angle deformation caused by the structures. Assuming that the conditions of sediment or waves have similar values in most coastal areas, a primary variable impacting coastal sediment transport is the deformation of an equilibrium shoreline relative to the existing beach. Therefore, the angle rotation deforming the equilibrium of a shoreline can be the criterion for evaluating beach erosion incurred through the construction of artificial structures. The evaluation criteria are classified into three levels: safety, caution, and danger. If the angle rotation of the equilibrium shoreline is 0.1° or less, the beach distance was considered to be safe in the present study; however, if this angle is 0.35° or higher, the beach distance is considered to be in a state of danger. Furthermore, in this study, the distance affected by beach erosion is calculated in areas of the eastern coast where artificial structures, mainly including ports and power plants, were constructed; thereafter, an impact assessment of the beach erosion around these areas was conducted. Using a proposed methodology, Gungchon Port was evaluated with caution, whereas Donghae Port, Sokcho Port, and Samcheok LNG were evaluated as being in a state of danger.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.101-114
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• 2019

In this study, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach, which is suffering from erosion problem. We obtain the basic equation (One Line Model for shoreline) for the numerical simulation by assuming that the amount of shoreline retreat or advance is balanced by the net influx of longshore and cross-shore sediment into the unit discretized shoreline segment. In doing so, the energy flux model for the longshore sediment transport rate is also evoked. For the case of cross sediment transport, the modified Bailard's model (1981) by Cho and Kim (2019) is utilized. At each time step of the numerical simulation, we adjust a closure depth according to pertinent wave conditions based on the Hallermeier's analytical model (1978) having its roots on the Shield's parameter. Numerical results show that from 2017.4.26 to 2017.10.15 during which swells are prevailing, a shoreline advances due to the sustained supply of cross-shore sediment. It is also shown that a shoreline temporarily retreats due to the erosion by the yearly highest waves sequentially occurring from mid-October to the end of October, and is followed by gradual recovery of shoreline as high waves subdue and swells prevail. It is worth mentioning that great yearly circulation of shoreline completes when a shoreline retreats due to the erosion by the higher waves occurring from mid-March to the end of March. The great yearly circulation of shoreline mentioned above can also be found in the measured locations of shoreline on 2017.4.5, 2017.9.7, 2017.11.7, 2018.3.14. However, numerically simulated amount of shoreline retreat or advance is more significant than the physically measured one, and it should be noted that these discrepancies become more substantial for the case of RUN II where a closure depth is sustained to be as in the most morphology models like the Genesis (Hanson and Kraus, 1989).

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.307-320
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• 2021

Udo Rhodolith Beach is a small-scale, mixed sand-and-gravel beach embayed on the N-S trending rocky coast of Udo, Jeju Island, South Korea. This study analyzes the short-term topographic changes of the beach during the extreme storm conditions of four typhoons from 2016 to 2020: Chaba (2016), Soulik (2018), Lingling (2019), and Maysak (2020). The analysis uses the topographic data of terrestrial LiDAR scanning and drone photogrammetry, aided by weather and oceanographic datasets of wind, wave, current and tide. The analysis suggests two contrasting features of alongshore topographic change depending on the typhoon pathway, although the intensity and duration of the storm conditions differed in each case. During the Soulik and Lingling events, which moved northward following the western sea of the Jeju Island, the northern part of the beach accreted while the southern part eroded. In contrast, the Chaba and Maysak events passed over the eastern sea of Jeju Island. The central part of the beach was then significantly eroded while sediments accumulated mainly at the northern and southern ends of the beach. Based on the wave and current measurements in the nearshore zone and computer simulations of the wave field, it was inferred that the observed topographic change of the beach after the storm events is related to the directions of the wind-driven current and wave propagation in the nearshore zone. The dominant direction of water movement was southeastward and northeastward when the typhoon pathway lay to the east or west of Jeju Island, respectively. As these enhanced waves and currents approached obliquely to the N-S trending coastline, the beach sediments were reworked and transported southward or northward mainly by longshore currents, which likely acts as a major control mechanism regarding alongshore topographic change with respect to Udo Rhodolith Beach. In contrast to the topographic change, the subaerial volume of the beach overall increased after all storms except for Maysak. The volume increase was attributed to the enhanced transport of onshore sediment under the combined effect of storm-induced long periodic waves and a strong residual component of the near-bottom current. In the Maysak event, the raised sea level during the spring tide probably enhanced the backshore erosion by storm waves, eventually causing sediment loss to the inland area.