• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제16권4
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• pp.258-267
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• 2004

해안 방재 또는 연안 개발 목적으로 축조되는 해안 및 항만 구조물은 건설된 후 건설 전의 연안 토사 이동의 양상을 변화시켜 해안선 침식은 물론 해안 환경까지 영향을 미친다. 본 연구에서는 건설 후의 해안선 변화 예측을 위하여 필수적인 해안선 또는 해안 단면 자료를 이용하여 연안 표사 이동량을 예측하는 새로운 기법을 제시하고 하와이 Kailua 해빈의 단면 관측 자료와 강릉 일대 해안선 관측 자료를 이용하여 연안 표사의 이동량 양상을 규명한다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.15-20
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• 2007

The harbor siltation by longshore sediment transports has become a serious problem on the East Coast of Korea. A reasonable prediction of the longshore sediment rate is important to approach the siltation problem effectively. In the recently developed 1-line model, the empirical constants of the sediment transport formula, which include the absolute quantity of sediment transport rate and the spatial distribution of breaking wave height by wave deformation, are treated as calibration parameters. Since these constants should be determined by the very long-term shoreline data, the longshore sediment rates are much more reasonable values. The method was applied to Hupo Beach, which has experienced heavy siltation. The authors also discuss long-term shoreline change using aerial photos and the observed wave-induced current patterns. According to the result, the SW-direction sediment transport rate was $146,892m^3/year$, and the NE direction was $2,694,450m^3/year$ at Hupo Beach for the last 11 years. The siltation in Hupo Harbor might be affected by the NE-direction sediment transport from Hupo Beach.

• 한국환경과학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.589-594
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• 1997

A total of 24 surface sediment samples collected from coastal region and fronting of sea cliff on Cape Cod In southeastern Massachusetts, were analyzed to Investigate the sediment transport mechanism. According to the result of grainsize analysis, the overall trend of g.k size decreases from the north(Wood End Beach) to the south(Nauset Light Beachy. The coarser materials tend to be deposited at the foreshore than at the backshore. Especially gavel content(%) Is very high in northern beaches. The lavel fraction tended to concentrate at the toe of the beach. In addition to gravel. the beach and nearshore bar also tended to be deposite of very coarse sand and the Inner fraction accumulate in the offshore bar, Grainsize analyses of sediment Indicates that the coarsest sands Including gravel accumulate In the beach and nearshore bar, the finer fraction winnowed out by wave action to be deposited In the offshore bar. The beach and nearshore bar sands and gavel are subsequently transported laterally by the wave-driven longshore drift, and finally they come to rest in the distal end of Provincetown Hook. The faller offshore sands are trnasported laterally to the south by net southward-directed longshore current.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

해빈 안정화를 위한 구조물 설계 시 주 표사이송 모드와 모드별 년 표사 이송량에 관한 정보는 상당한 공학적 가치를 지닌다. 이러한 시각에서 본고에서는 현재 상당한 침식이 진행되고 있는 맹방해변의 년 표사 이송량을 산출하였다. 횡단표사의 경우 Bagnold(1963)의 에너지 모형을 확장한 Bailard(1981)의 모형을 활용하였으며, 연안 표사량은 각 해안에서 가용한 파랑에너지 유입률에 의해 결과 되는 것으로 해석하였다. Bailard(1981)의 횡단표사모형 적용에 필요한 유속 적률은 먼저 맹방해변에서 관측된 파랑자료로부터 출현 가능한 총 71개의 파랑주기 복합사상을 선정하고, 선정된 복합사상을 대상으로 수행된 맹방해변에서의 비선형 천수과정 수치모의 결과로부터 산출하였다. 이 과정에서 파랑모형으로는 주파수 영역 Boussinesq Eq.(Frelich and Guza, 1984)을 활용하였으며, 모의결과 Bailard(1981)의 연구와는 달리 유속 적률과 Irribaren NO. 간에 존재하는 뚜렷한 상관관계를 확인할 수 있었다. 산출 결과 맹방해변 평균 방위 ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$의 경우 북서진하는 연안표사가 우월하며 그 양은 년 $125,000m^3/m$에 달하였다. 북서진하는 연안표사와 남동진하는 연안표사가 균형을 이루는 null point는 ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$에 위치하며, 횡단표사의 경우 4월부터 10월 중순까지는 연안방향으로의 퇴적이 점진적으로 진행되나 10월 말과 삼월에 단발적으로 발생하는 고파랑에 의해 침식되는 것으로 판단된다. 또한 맹방해변의 연안표사 장미도(littoral drift rose)를 산출하였으며, 그 결과 맹방해변의 방위가 일시적으로 null point의 방위보다 큰 경우 남동진하는 연안표사가 우월하며, 방위가 일시적으로 null point의 방위보다 작은 경우 북서진하는 연안표사가 우월한 경향을 확인하였으며, 이는 맹방해변은 일시적으로 침식되더라도 스스로 복원할 수 있는 능력을 지닌 안정적인 해변임을 의미한다.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.939-950
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• 2015

Wave-induced Longshore Sediment Transport (LST) play an important role in the dynamics of the Dhanushkodi sandspit located southeast of Rameshwaram. The LST along the Dhanushkodi coast is studied based on data collected simultaneously in Gulf of Mannar (GoM) and Palk Bay (PB) using directional waverider buoys. The numerical model REF/DIF1 was used to calculate the nearshore waves and the LST rate was estimated using three different formulae. The model validation was done based on the measured nearshore waves using InterOcean S4DW. Numerical model LITPACK was also used for simulating non-cohesive sediment transport and the LITLINE module was used to study the shoreline evolution over 5 years. Low net annual LST along PB (${\sim}0.01{\times}10^6m^3$) compared to the GoM region ($0.3{\times}10^6m^3$) were due to the weak waves. Accretion in the region led to growth of the Dhanushkodi sandspit by 65 m during the period 2010-2015.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• 한국해안해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해안해양공학회 1996년도 정기학술강연회 발표논문 초록집
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• pp.137-139
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• 1996

It is known that under storm waves, beach will respond by eroding material from the beach Ace and the formation of longshore bar(s) in the vicinity of breaking point. This breakpoint bar is believed to have the effect of slowing down beach erosion by dissipating incoming wave energy and retarding offshore sediment transport. Recently, artificial bin are being proposed as beach protective measures based on this reasoning. (omitted)

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.319-329
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• 2015

Submerged breakwaters are used to prevent shore line erosion and sediment transportation. One of their advantages is low visual impact. In this paper, the effects of discontinuous submerged breakwaters over water surface elevation was numerically studied considering the extended Boussinesq equations as governing equations using MIKE21 software. The result of discontinuous breakwater was compared with a beach without breakwater. The results showed that the gap dramatically effects on surface elevation from shore line to offshore. It is also evident from results that with approaching the center of the gap, fluctuation of surface elevation is generated. It is because of passing longshore currents towards offshore through the gap which leads to an increase in sediment transportation rate. Nevertheless, transferring water mass from breakwater gap results in powerful rip currents leading to high changes on longshore wave profile.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.59-65
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• 2003

자연 연안 사주와 고정된 인공 연안 사주가 있는 해안에서의 해양 물리 환경 변화에 따른 해빈 단면변화를 수치모델을 통하여 연구하였다. 수치 모델은 준3차원 파랑-흐름-퇴적물 이동모델에 인공 구조물 위에서의 퇴적물 이동에 대한 경계조건을 제안하여 적용하였다. 수치실험 결과 자연 사주의 경우 해수면이나 파고의 변화에 따라 위치를 이동하며 적을 하였으나 고정된 인공 사주의 경우 사주 후면에 새로운 자연 사주를 형성시키거나 혹은 사주 후면에서 세굴 현상이 발생하기도 하였다. 본 연구는 잠제 설치에 따른 해안 지형 변화를 연구하는데 응용될 수 있다.