• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.171-187
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• 2013

This is a study on the military costumes of Hunryeondogam, which was the center of Five Military Camps in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty. I confirmed the characteristics and system of military costumes of Hunryeondogam by document research and positive research. The military organization of Hunryeondogam was comprised of the high-ranking military officers such as Hunryeondaejang, Junggun, Cheonchong, Byeoljang and Gukbyeoljang, the mid and low ranking military officers such as Pachong, Chogwa and soldiers. And the military costume of Hunryeondogam included Gapju, Yoongbok and Goonbok for military officers and all kinds of military uniforms for soldiers. Imjin war and ritualized military ceremonies in the era of peace had influence on the military costume. Officers, for example, were wearing Dangap and soldiers were wearing Cheolgap or Pigap that depended on the branch of the army. Politically, kings in the mid and the late Joseon had organized military organizations to strengthen their royal authority. I think that the policy can be effectively seen by observing the military costume system. The qualitative differences in cloth materials and the presence or absence of patterns of Goonbok, the qualitative differences in the decoration of Jeonrip and the presence or absence of Yodae were able to distinguish the identity and the rank. An assumption can be made that these things could have been affected by social causes, such as frequent trips of the King and stable society. This cause could be influence on substitute Yoongbok with Goonbok that from the low ranking military officers to the high ranking military officers of Hunryeondogam. The societal changes in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty are reflected on the military costumes system of Hunryeondogam.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.63-79
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• 2009

Since the 1970's, UNESCO and ICOMOS have adopted or emphasized on the principles of historic preservation. One of them is what to require a repair have not to be repaired beyond the limits of the features and techniques to have been born in those days of establishment. On the premise, this paper is to examine the materials and technique of lime plaster work in order for roof ridge, and for bond paste of stones and bricks in government constructions in the late of Joseon dynasty(17~19c). The result of this examination will come up with a basic conformity in the case of repairing the building established in the late of Joseon dynasty. This paper is carried out for the proper repair and restoration of architectural cultural properties. Construction reports and other documents in those days are examined for the study. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. The components of old plaster mixtures which agglutinate stones each other were quicklime, perilla oil, and paper fiber. The components of old plaster mixtures which point joint of black bricks consisted of slaked lime, perilla oil, paper fiber, and cereal starch. These components were the same as coat surface of roof ridges. In the case of times, one of the following sand, white clay, sap of boiled elm bark was added to these components for the purpose of high efficiency. These materials and techniques which applied to plaster work of those buildings had developed in the process of making royal tombs. But these materials and techniques were quite different from the present.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.35-50
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• 2010

In this dissertation, the analysis of the study of female customs from late Joseon Dynasty and their genre painting to research humors and its aesthetic senses in that certain era. The purpose of the genre paintings is to look at general populations in an objective point of view and endeavor better value of public life style to embody clear understandings of humanity. The artists such as Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed their arts based on reasonable reality with sarcastic but humorous and creative ways to criticize the society's problems with clear statements. Therefore, the formative characters are realism, exaggeration and coloring of the whole arts that represents as innovative and original genre of it's time. Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed the women in society as open minded with versatile and refined looks in their paintings as the reality was repressed and closed mind for women figures in late Joseon Dynasty. The female customs in the paintings has both suppression and expression in their dresses and exaggerated shapes of accessories and the use of color were also found. All of these elements has the aesthetic values of satirized eroticism, the hint of next evolution of the late Joseon Era under the conservative disposition of social characters and freedom of expression of playfulness. These elements were new developments and a step forward of female 'sex' and expression of satirized eroticism. The exaggerated and distorted forms and accessories demonstrates unbalanced and asymmetrical elements in humorous characters and they include spontaneity. Also, using the five traditional color schemes of Korean art displays humor in playfulness of an art with splendid and purity, duality of positiveness and artless, smart and elegance looks.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.9-28
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• 2007

We investigated the changes in the species of the woods used for Korean ancient and historic architectures, which include prehistoric excavated relics and existing wooden buildings in South Korea. The species data were collected from various sources such as excavation and repair reports, journal papers, and a few unpublished documents. We divided the building Periods as Paleolithic, Neolitic, Bronze Ages, Iron Age/Three Kingdoms, Koryo, Joseon (early, middle, late) and modem periods. In prehistoric periods, hardwoods were major species. Oak (Quercus spp.) woods dominated (94 percent in average); the others (5%) were Juglans mandshurica, Platycarya strobilacea, Castanea crenata, and few softwoods(1%). During Iron Age and Three Kingdom periods, oaks remained as a major species (57%) and others Platycarya strobilacea(21%), Castanea crenata(13%), and Pinus spp. (6%). The oak woods decreased in Koryo period and they occupied only 1.1%. Instead of oaks, pine (Pinus spp., 71%) and Zelkova serrata (22%) dominated in Koryo. In early and middle Joseon periods, pine woods (73%) remain as a major species and the others were oaks (14%) and Zelkova serrata (9%). As late Joseon came, the pine woods occupied more than 88%. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a few boreal species such as larch (Larix spp.) and spruce (Picea spp.), which grow in cold area, were found. We believe they were transported from northern Korea. The existing buildings in Korea are mainly from Joseon period and a few from late Koryo periods. During these periods, pine woods were used for most buildings. For such reason, pine woods were known as 'representative materials for historic buildings'. but earlier times, broad-leaved trees, i.e., oak and Zelkova woods were major materials. The changes in building materials resulted from both climate and human impacts. The dry climate and disturbed forests induce more pines in the mountains. We also compared the wood qualities of the species and found that Zelkova woods were superior ones and deserved more planting for future demands in the repair for historic buildings.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.12 no.9
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• pp.3815-3826
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• 2011

TThis study was undertaken to make trial costumes of ball jointed dolls for promoting the beauty of Korean cultural product with historical research of upper class ladie's costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon, the very unknown period in the Korean costume history. The ladies' costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon are characterized by their full silhouette, fusion with clothings of Yuan and Ming, revival of early Goryeo styles, well-developed weaving skill of ramie, a showy costume from Buddhist civilization. After investigation of researcher with literature, painting, and relics in 13-14C, 8 clothing items were outsourced totally. Items were formed as a set concept, but consumer can choose each costume as an single item and can make varied mix also. Dart, small ties, and thick fabrics were used in doll costumes partly because ball jointed doll's body has different characteristics from that of human beings. Developing research of manufacturing company's system for ready-made product remains to be considered in the future.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.29-44
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• 2019

A major performance stage carpenter, Jang Insang led performance stages from the 1719 Sukjong Royal Banquet and was confirmed by historical records to be the first craftsman. Lee Wandeuk led the Hwaseong Fortress performance stages of the Jeongjo period and Gichuk Jinchan performance stages of the Sunjo period. The carpenter techniques he used during the Jeongjo period were succeeded to the Sunjo period. Ahn Sungil was the head craftsman who led the performance stages of Jagyeongjeon Jinjak, Muja Jinjak, and Gichuk Jinchan of the Sujo period, under which the foundation for court palace performances was laid. The progression of major carpenters includes Jang Insang of the Sukjong period, Jeon Yoochu of the Yeongjo period, Ahn Sugil of the Sunjo period, Yoon Seoksin of the Heonjong period, Kim Yoonsik of the Gojong period, Lee Jongyoon, Kim Soongil, Seo Sangmook, and Han Sujoon. In addition, the Major Repair of Injeongjeon Hall (1857) of the Cheoljong period was the most important palace construction project for transferring the carpenters' skills. Through this project, Ahn Sungil of the Sunjo period, Kim Myeonggap, Yoon Seoksin of the Heonjong period, Kwon Deuknyang, and Kim Sungil of the Gojong period were able to interact with each other. That is, this major repair project of Injeongjeon Hall reflected the major carpenters' best techniques through performance stage construction, showing the progression of Ahn Sungil, Yoon Seokshin, and Kim Sungil, who led the constructions of Gichuk Jinchan of the Sunjo period (1829), Mushin Jinchan of the Heonjong period (1848), and Jeonghae Jinchan of the Gojong period (1887), the most impressive performance stages of the late Joseon period. The carpenters of the court performance stages participated in important construction projects of the royal palace, reflecting the superior technical skills of the carpenters in the construction of court palace performance stages. The carpenters who played a leading role in the construction of performance stages were able to interact with one another and transfer their excellent technical skills, providing the driving force that allowed court performance stages to blossom into splendid and high-quality court stages in the late Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of Korean Medical classics
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.11-40
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• 2017

Purpose : The purpose of this article is to make a clarification that Hwang Doyeon(黃度淵) was a official doctor(醫官) who even served as royal doctor(御醫), rather than merely a general doctor who worked in the private sector. The article also attempts to give a new perspective on the medical history about the late period of Joseon(朝鮮) Dynasty. Methods : In researching Hwang Doyeon's master work, the Gains and Losses of Medical Orthodoxy(醫宗損益), the article looks at his clinical medicines. Analyzing the historical records, the article makes an assumption that Hwang Doyeon and Hwang Dosoon(黃道淳), who was selected as an officer to discuss medicine with other medical officers(議藥同參), are the identical person. On this assumption, the article tries to reinterpret the medicine during the later Joseon Dynasty period. Result & Conclusion : The records, including the royal medical treatment records of the Gains and Losses of Medical Orthodoxy, the Daily Records of Royal Secretariat(承政院日記), the genealogy of Changwon Hwangs(昌原黃氏世譜), academic paper and government documents released posthumously, demonstrated that Hwang Doyeon and Hwang Dosoon are the same person. If so, we can have new historical interpretation about medical history of late Joseon Dynasty. First, during the late of Joseon Dynasty, there was an official and active medical knowledge interaction between government and private sector. Second, the Joseon's medicine has been established its own medical system based on the Treasured Mirror of Eastern Medicine(東醫寶鑑), trying to cope with cholera and other contemporary epidemics without relying on Chinese warm disease(溫病) medicine. Third, the Compilation of Formulas and Medicinals(方藥合編), is regarded not only as a must-read medical reading for medical doctors, also playing an important role on popularization of Korean medical knowledge.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.59-82
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• 2011

Based on travel literatures written by the Joseon literati, the different picture of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century Buseok monastery from the one today emerges. Not only do the buildings removed from the monastery today reappear, but the quite different way of the monastic operation comes to light. This observation leads to a speculation that the monastery was functionally and spatially divided into two territories; that of the Immeasurable life hall and of the Dharma hall. The Immeasurable life hall's precinct was built at the site open to the west providing a grand vista of mountainous area. This siting, originally having a close relation with the visualization such as the Sixteen contemplation, not simply gave such a special attraction that the first built architectural composition has lasted through the centuries to the late Joseon, but also granted to the Chwiweon pavilion located at the western side of the precinct a special meditative quality. As the monastery has suffered from a number of heavy duties in the Joseon period, the architectural attraction of the precinct was mobilized to promote the monastic identity as the legitimate monastery first built by Uisang, the founder of Hwaeom Buddhsim. Especially, the Chwiweon pavilion offered a mental space so that the literati might form an affirmative attitude toward the monastery and the monks. The Dharma hall's precinct was built based on the direct replication of the architectural layout presented in liturgy books for the Water and Land rite as well as the Vulture Peak rite. This layout is generally called the Court-type enclosed by four buildings, which has been widely fashioned in the late Joseon period. This characteristic gave to the Dharma hall precinct an arbitrary and anonymous quality, which helped not only avoid the tourism of the literati, but also secure the sacrality and ritual efficacy at occasions of Buddhist rites. This division of territories of the monastery can be understood as the strategic reaction from the monks in order to survive in the age of oppression against Buddhism. In result, the identity of Buseok monastery in the late Joseon was established as the Nine-rank sanctuary where Bodhisattvas permanently resided.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.87-101
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.1-17
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• 2007

This study is a review of Ipsik, the decorative ornaments found on traditional Korean horsehair hats, known as Ipja, which were worn by men in the late Joseon Dynasty. In a broad sense, Ipsik are regarded as men's accessories. Therefore, although this study is limited to Ipja, it is significant in the sense that it delves into one facet of men's accessories in detail. Because the appearance of the horsehair hats was rather mundane, Ipsik and Ibyeong were added as ornaments. During the Joseon period, various types of hat ornaments existed, named Maeksu, Hosu, Gongjagu, Sangmo, Jingdori, Ijeon, Guyeongja and Ibyeong. A person's social ranking and class could be discerned by the materials used in the Ipsik he wore. Jeongja, a decorative accessory used to attach to an official's hat, was institutionalized in the sixteenth year of King Gongmin's reign(1367), during the Goryeo Dynasty, prior to the founding of China's Ming Dynasty in 1368, which indicates that Jeongja were influenced by the Yuan Dynasty. A record in Lao Chi'ta (a textbook of spoken Chinese estimated circa 1346) confirms this fact. Based on a review of literature, we learn that just as with Ongno, Jeongja were imported for use on Jeonrip, a soldier's hat. During the Ching Dynasty, Jeongja were further subdivided and more exquisitely designed. On the other hand, in the Joseon Dynasty, a rule was handed down mandating that a royal prince use gold for his jeongja, officials at third rank or above use silver, and governors, commanders in chief, and officials with the Office of Inspector General and Office of Censor General use jade. Inspectors were permitted to use crystal. Jeongja made of jade were used until the late Joseon Dynasty.