• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.60-74
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• 2020

A Podaegi is a square cloth used to carry a baby. Podaegi was an essential necessity for raising baby. However currently Koreans prefer baby-carriers, baby hip-seats, and equipments other than Podaegi. Recently, Podaegi is becoming popular around the world. Therefore, it is necessary to study Podaegi to inform Korea's traditional parenting culture product. In this research, 230 images of Podaegi were collected from paintings, photographs, postcards, films and artifacts from the late 18th century to 2000. The period of study was divided into three phases from the late Joseon Dynasty to before the opening of the port, from the opening of the port to before the liberation, and from the liberation to 2000. Types of Podaegi were categorized according to its shape and how to use. Transition process of Podaegi was examined. Podaegis were categorized into band type, blanket type, combination type, cheone type, modern type, and so on. From the late Joseon Dynasty to before the pre-openings, band type was used. From the opening of the port to liberation, all types of Podaegi appeared. Since the liberation, the use of band and blanket type has gradually decreased. Modern types have been the most popular since the 1960s. Materials of Podaegi became varied and Podaegi became a fashion-item. Later, modern Podaegi became the representative form of Korean traditional Podaegi.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.96-108
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• 2009

This study is made on the royal lady's dress In late Joseon dynasty according to the King Heon-jong and Lady Kyung-bin's Wedding Diary in the year of Jung-mi(1847) and summarised as follows: Girls' full dress was a set of a red skirt, a violet undo. jacket, and a light yellow jacket and a green Gyeon-ma-gi(a kind of top jacket) with he. hair Saeng-meo-ri hanging Do-tu-rak-daeng-gi(a kind of hair ribbon). At the big ceremony, girls wore a green Dang-ui instead of Gyeon-ma-gi. A girl picked up as a royal concubine wore a green Won-sam, which was decorated with gilt letters meaning longevity, patched emblems of gilt letter meaning longevity on the breast and on the back, belted with Bong-dae(a red sash with gilt phoenexes), like a princess's full dress. At the Kyung-bin's installation of Crown Princess and her first greeting ceremony with royal elders, she wore a green Won-sam as a formal dress, which had an embroidered emblem of phoenix, the belt with crystal ornaments, Pae-ok(佩玉), Kyu(圭) of blue jade, Shou(綬) with an phoenix. At a Dong-wrae-yun(drinking ceremony after bride and bridegroom's bowing to each other), she wore the embroidered red Jang-sam as a formal dress. Kyung-bin wore a purple Won-sam with Bong-dae as a full dress for a royal feast. According to the occasions, the same dress was differentiated with ornaments and rotors. Ji-keum-bal was an attire for ordinary ceremony. The attire was equipped with a woven gold green Dang-ui with an emblem of phoenix, a blue gilt underskirt and a red gilt overskirt. No-ui was worn as outdoor clothes. Jang-sam was worn by various classes, so it was differentiated with materials and names according to her class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.35-46
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to closely examine the history of glasses and their cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty and identify inherent quality of our traditional glasses cases through color analyses of glasses cases' material and shape. While theoretical examination was conducted based on the literatures of glasses and their cases that firstly appeared in around Japanese Invasion (Imjin war) of Korea in 1592, practical analyses were demonstrated on photos of glasses cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty collected from both museum pieces and the internet which were grouped into wood, fabric, paper, sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn in accordance with their materials. 623 color samples were abstracted from collected 159 glasses cases and quantity analyses on each material were performed respectively. Abstracted representative colors based on the result of color analyses were classified into the main materials and accessories' color scheme. The result of this study are as follow: firstly, both Yellow and Yellow Red were mostly used in main materials. In Fabric case's colors were widely used in embroidery and in animal matter material cases such as sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn, which can be used as itself or dyed, Green Yellow shown in high frequency. Secondly, accessories were analyzed into similarity coloration with main materials. From this finding, it turns out that our traditional cases have characteristic of similarity coloration between main materials and accessories. Red Purple and Purple Blue in high frequency in accessories used as an accent color. Finally, based on the analysis of hue and tone, while the middle and low value colors shown in very high frequency, the high-chroma colors hardly shown.

• Korean Journal of Oriental Medicine
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2009

The eminent brother doctors Cho-Gaek Hur (Young Hur) and Cho-Sam Hur (Eon Hur) represent the medical tradition of the southeastern region of Mt. Jirisan incluiding Sancheong. This study investigated and examined their herediatary testimonies and medico-historical facts described in the literature tale, genealogy and family collection of works. At an early age after their family run away to the southern region from the harm of political struggle, they gave up taking the highest-level state examination to recruit ranking officials and set their heart on learning medicine. Their choice of medicine was the second best plan for the survival of their family and descendents from the influence of their ancestors who suffered from the party strife during the late Joseon Dynasty. The case is a good example of the deliberate action of the nobility intellectuals since the late Goryeo and early Joseon dynasties to who made attempts to have the minimum elegance and cause while securing livelihood after they have been collapsed politically. The tale of Cho-Gaek and Cho-Sam is a typical story of eminent doctors which combined reality and fiction about the persons who had outstanding medical skills. In the tale, the elder brother was good at herbal prescriptions and the younger brother was good at acupuncture, contrasting the treatment of administrative internal medicine and insertive acupuncture treatment. It shows that the prepositions for the choice of the treatment method for the public during that period were safety and fast efficacy. In their old age, they wrote a book titled Jinyangsinbang. Another Jinwoosinbang is estimated as a different kind of copy, which was a medical writing from experience that derived from the same original book as Jinyangsinbang. written by Cho-Gaek Hur and it is a valuable medical material that possesses the distinct features of the local medicine during the late Joseon Dynasty. Most of the contents are variations in application using the basis of Dongeuibogam, forming the roots of the traditional Korean medicine in Sancheong region together with the medical activities of the Hur brothers.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to comprehend the assignment and the procurement method of wood works' craftsman through the Salleung-dogamuigwes in royal tombs constructions in the late Joseon period. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. First, Carpenter and other nine craftsmen were introduced in carpentry works. The craftsmen were put in by occupation to maintain the quality of the government building construction by wood processing area. It was distinguished by frame member, Sujangjae, window framing wood, decorative member. Second, sawyer showed a sharp increase in the latter half of the 18th century and declined since the middle of the 19th century. This is closely related to the increase in demand for building materials and the growth of civilian wood products. As a maximum of 300 people have been assigned to the craftsmen in the woodwork, it can be seen that the work has been divided by the process. Third, the national carpenter was difficult to procure from the 17th century to the beginning of the 18th century. From the middle 18th century, the system procuring national carpenter was stabilized. In the 19th century, the input ratio of the national craftsmen seems to have decreased significantly and seems to have kept it at the minimum level. Forth, sawyer were procured through Seongonggam from the late 18th century through the mid 19th century. That means that the role of the sawyer had become important. Since Jogakjang is not a necessary manpower, it usually has civilian artisans.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.51-70
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is not to look at the history of traditional accessories or the characteristics of their shapes but to discern imitations ￡Tom authentic items by exploring imitations of traditional accessories-- many of which were made in the late 20th century -- from private museums and university museums in order to help scholars assess relics. Among many kinds of accessories in the Joseon dynasty, only norigae, one of the representative accessories, and women hair ornaments are selected for this study since many of the relics have been recovered to date. Given this, this study will consider firstly the general history of norigae and women's hair ornaments, and secondly, prove several examples as relics from the late 20th century while they are marked as relics from the Joseon dynasty by comparing authentic items. Thirdly, among the imitations of the late 20th century, this study will find those so-called "original" imitations whose production origins are unidentified Fourthly, this study will explore the imitations, which were influenced by the influx of items and materials from China. It is important to discern low-quality relics as well as to correct the production time. Some producers exercised their creativity and made relics non-native to Korea. These relics shouldn't be presented at international exhibitions. Restored relics should be noted so and their quality should be equal to the authentic items. It is suggested that relics without the identity and quality of native Korean relics not baffle cultural interchanges and enhance national glory.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.83-99
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• 2007

This study examines the joint and splice of wooden structure at Geunjeongjeon Hall of Gyengbok Palace, which was constructed in the late Joseon Dynasty. The scope of the study is on the part of columns, the bracket sets, and the frame structure. This research also deals with the relationship between vortical load and horizontal load. Firstly, the examination of the joint and splice methods between the pillar and penetrating ties is on the joint and splice methods of the outer and corner. Through the investigation, it is verified that the joint methods between pillar and penetrating tie on the outer and corner pillars is the method of Sagal joints(cross joints, 사개맞춤). Joints used between pillar and penetrating tie are dovetailed tenon joints, between columns and Anchogong(안초공), between columns and Choikgong(초익공) are tenon joint(장부맞춤). Secondly, the examination of the joint and splice methods of the bracket set is on that of Salmi and Cheomcha(첨차), and Salmi and Janghyeo(장혀). Joints used between Salmi and Cheomcha, Salmi and Janghyeo are halved joint, and between each Janghyeo are stepped dovetailed splice. It is Cheomcha that is used the Jujang-Cheomcha(주장첨차) on center line. Therefore it is connected with each bracket set, which gets to is the strong system, easy and convenient on the construction of that. Thirdly, the frame structure of wooden architecture in royal palace is consist of purlins and beams, Janghyeo(장혀, timber under purlin), tall columns, king posts, etc. Through the investigation, it is verified that the joint and splice methods between purlins and beams are used with the methods of Sungeoteok joint(숭어턱맞춤). It is verified that the joint and splice methods between beams and high columns are used with methods of mortise and tenon joint(장부맞춤), is highly related with tensile force. To reduce the separation of parts, sangi(산지) and tishoi(띠쇠) are used as a counterproposal, which were generally used for architecture in royal Palaces in the late Joseon Dynasty and continued to be used until these days common wooden architecture.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.60-70
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• 2017

This study traces the development of physic gardens in Korea and explores their significance in the history of landscape architecture. For this purpose, records related to physic gardens from medical sources from the period of the Three States to the Joseon dynasty, when herbal medicine was systematized as a field, were searched. Physic gardens had been developed by the time of the late Goryeo and early Joseon dynasties, in the 13th and the 15th centuries. Yakpo(kitchen gardens for medicinal herbs) were cultivated by a group of new high-level officials in the late Goryeo dynasty, when an increasing interest in hyangyak(native herbs) emerged under the influence of the Neo-Confucian perspective on nature, which emphasized locality. The sources analyzed in this study confirm that physic gardens called jong-yakjeon(royal medicinal herb gardens) were in operation in the early Joseon dynasty when policies to investigate, discover, cultivate, and research native herbs were put into place. It is likely that the jong-yakjeon were established at the beginning of the Joseon dynasty as subsidiary facilities under its central medical institutions, the Naeuiwon and Hyeminseo, and then declined in the late Joseon dynasty. Jong-yakjeon can be confirmed to have existed in the mid-15th century. Physic gardens were located in several places outside the Fortress Wall of Hanyang, such as Yakhyeon, Yuldo, Yeoudo, and Saari. The total area encompassed by physic gardens was about 160,000 square meters in the early 18th century. In jong-yakjeon, dozens of medicinal herbs were cultivated, including Schizonepeta tenuifolia var. japonica, Rehmannia glutinosa, and Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fischer, and these gardens were operated by physicians dispatched from the Naeuiwon and dozens of provincial slaves. In conclusion, the jong-yakjeon were similar to the physic gardens of Renaissance medical universities in that they reflected the interest in and development of theories about new herbs, and were similar to the physic gardens of medieval castles and monasteries in terms of species types, location, and function. This paper has limitations in that it does not present the specific spatial forms of the yakpo or the jong-yakjeon. Nevertheless, this paper is significant for the field of garden history because it shows that physic gardens in Korea appeared in the late Goryeo and early Joseon dynasties concomitantly with the development of medicine towards native herbs and functioned as utilitarian gardens to cultivate community remedies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.74-87
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• 2010

Jeokgwan(翟冠, crown decorated with pheasant motifs) is a queen's ceremonial headdress during the early Joseon dynasty. It originated from Bong-gwan(鳳冠, crown decorated with phoenix motifs) worn by the Chinese empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) was originally various types of hairpins worn with the topknot hair style, such as Bongchae(鳳釵) Hwasu(花樹) Bakbin(博鬢), but during the Sung dynasty(宋, 960-1279) these ornamental hairpins were combined with the crown worn by the empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn during the Ming dynasty(明, 1368-1644) varied according to the wearer's social status and it was worn both by the empress and other court ladies. Jeokgwan(翟冠), one type of Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn by the queens and princesses of Ming dynasty, was given to those of the Joseon dynasty as a gift until the early 17th century. According to the portraits and remains of China, when women wore the Jeokgwan(翟冠), they were supposed to place the crown onto the hair, and then, fix the crown to the hair by putting on gorgeous hairpins. The lower edge of the crown was wrapped around with Gu-gwon(口圈), which was decorated with kingfisher's feathers. There are several flowery decorations on Gu-gwon(口圈), and this style is similar to Daeyobanja(大腰斑子), a queen's ceremonial hairband during the late Joseon dynasty.