• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.188-207
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• 2014

Taking the concept of 'Invention of Tradition' by Hobsbawm, this paper examines the change of perspectives on the past and the attitudes toward connecting the past and the contemporary in the 19th century restoration of religious buildings in England. The Anglican society in the early 19th century argued that the catholic theology and rituals should be revived in their practice, which has formed the Oxford Movement. Such aspiration has stimulated to the society to execute its religious practice in a proper space, which has resulted in the Cambridge Camden Society in the middle of the century. Their publications on church buildings and arrangement had much affected to the restoration of many churches to rip off the previous Georgian furnitures and features of the fabric into Gothic, the style of middle age. The perspective on the past for anti-restoration movement in the late 19th century has moved into the one to respect all historical layers of previous spirit imprinted in the church buildings. Inspired by Ruskin and formulated by Morris, SPAB's Manifesto has reflected that the spirit of the first builder can not be reproduced or copied by the contemporaries, and therefore a daily maintenance is the best practice to extend the life of spirit rather than restoration. In addition the material remains is no longer belong to the religious entity but should be regarded as national heritage. By examining the change of perspectives on the past between the early and middle of 19th century and the late 19th century, this paper has argued that the various factors such as social, economic, political, art and commercial factors should be examined together in the understanding of conservation history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.144-151
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• 2005

This study examined food culture appearing in Giroyeon paintings in the late Chosun Dynasty (early $17^{th}{\sim}l9^{th}$ century), a period under political and economical difficulties in overcoming frustrations and looking for self-restoration methods after Imjinweran$(1592{\sim}1598)$ and Byungjahoran$(1636{\sim}1637)$. Paintings related to Giroyeon include Lee Gi-ryong's $(1600{\sim}?)$ painted in 1629 under the reign of King Injo $(1623{\sim}1649)$, painted jointly by Kim Jin-yeo et al. in 1720, the first year of King Gyeongjong $(1720{\sim}1724)$ and Kim Hong-do's painted in 1804 under the reign of King Sunjo $(1800{\sim}1834)$ in the early $19^{th}$ century. These paintings over three centuries of the late Chosun show changes in the character of Giroyeon, food culture and tableware culture, etc. According to these paintings, the character of Giroyeon was expanded from a feast held for high civil officials to a banquet comprehending general civil servants. These paintings show Hyangeumjueui, which means the decorum of respecting and sowing the aged men of virtue with alcohol beverage, table manner, seated culture represented by cushions and mats and individual-table culture. In addition, the expansion of demand for sunbaikja and chungwhabaikja and the diversification of vessels and dishes are demonstrated in Giroyeon paintings after Imjinweran in 1592. in this way, Giroyeon paintings show the historical characteristics of the late Chosun Dynasty, such as the collapse of Yangban-centered political system, the disintegration of the medieval system due to the emergence of the Silhak and the diversification of food culture.

• Journal of Ginseng Culture
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• v.1
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• pp.67-77
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• 2019

This study tried to evaluate the official Korea Red Ginseng(Hongsam) trade in 19th century. The Hongsam trade activities of the 19th century also show that the collected amount of Posam taxes (Hongsam taxes) alone outweigh the amount of cost spent during the same time period to launch tributary actions. It is quite obvious that the Chosun dynasty, supported by the developed techniques of ginseng cultivation and preservation methods, managed to stop the silver leaks while also stimulating the domestic commerce, handicraft business and mining operations, by exporting Hongsam to China and importing raw material and other finished products in return. The Chosun government also managed to secure considerable amount of marginal profit which at times mounted to almost 2 hundred thousand Nyangs of silver during the latter half of the 19th century thanks to this Hongsam trade activities, and accumulated the hoof-shaped pieces of silver ingot at the office of Ministry of Taxation. Even under the mostly undesirable political environment featuring unjustified deeds of the powerful houses, the commercial activities were being strongly maintained, and the transactions conducted by merchants of the Gaeseong, Euiju areas and the capital city were prospering.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.155-164
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• 2014

This paper discusses the social changes in the late 19th century that provided a historical background in the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing in the West. It examines the social meanings of the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing at the time and traces the origins of these social characteristics to the book published in the $16^{th}$ century by Thomas More, Utopia. The results of this study can be summarized as the following. First, the appearance and expansion of the ready-to-wear clothing coincided with the social transition from a class-based society to a democratic society in the west in the $19^{th}$ century. Second, uniforms were produced in the $18^{th}$ century Europe in order to distinguish different classes and ethnic groups, with the military uniforms being the most visible example. Frequent military campaigns in Europe resulted in the increasing demand and expansion of military uniforms, which later became the basis of the standardization of the men's clothing with uniforms. Third, the women's ready-to-wear clothing appeared later than their male counterpart and was made possible by the simplification of design, an important characteristic of women's wear in the later period. Fourth, the social characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be traced to a democratic and egalitarian society without personal properties that was depicted in the book of Utopia by Thomas More. Fifth, one of the characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be found in the description of Utopia, in which everyone in Utopia wears a clothing of the same form for life.

• The Southeast Asian review
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.93-134
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• 2013

This paper examines the formation and evolution of Chinese society in Penang over 155 years. Since it was ruled by the British in 1786, many immigrants gathered in Penang. Among them, much of the population was Chinese. It could be offered to clarify the historical process of the development of Chinese society in Penang by paying attention to the three items - opium, tin, and rubber. All the conflict and friction over these products were main causes of prosperity and decay for the Chinese society in Penang. In the early 19th century, the Chinese colossus could get their capital accumulation by taking advantage of 'opium farm'. They amassed their fortune through development of tin mines newly discovered in Perak during the late 19th century. It was the age of Chinese Colossuses deeply connected with Chinese secret societies. After the rubber plantations were developed by the Western capital in the early 20th century, the age of Chinese Colossuses was gradually fallen down. From this point of view one can be provided a new perspective on the history of Penang and the Chinese society of its own. The three scopes for history enable us to make a new interpretation about the issue of stratification within Chinese society in Penang. Especially this research focused on the economic characteristics of Chinese secret societies as 'social capital', and on the identity conflicts between traditional Strait Chinese(peranakan) elite and emerging sinkeh Chinese merchants. The identity problem between 'Laokeh' and 'Sinkeh' in the early 20th century was intentionally exaggerated by modern researchers. Their conflicts seems to be caused by different economic interests rather than identity. We need to consider again the rise and fall of Chinese society in Penang with flexible thinking.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.61-72
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• 2023

Korean architecture classifies Banja (the decorated flat of the ceiling visible from the inside) of Royal Palaces into two types: Woomul(water-well, 井) banja, which inserts rectangular wooden board into lattice frame, and paper banja, which applies paper to the flat ceiling. Such classification was established in the 19th century. Before that, Banja was classified according to what was inserted into the lattice frame, either wooden or paper board. At first, the banja that used paper board was widely installed regardless of the purpose or nobility of the building. However, since the 17th century, the use of paper board banja became mostly restricted to Ondol (Korean floor heating system) rooms which are characterized by private usage and the importance of heating, and it was considered inferior to wooden board banja in terms of rank or grace. The contemporary paper banja was mainly installed in low-rank ondol rooms until the late 19th century to early 20th century, when roll-type wallpaper was introduced from the West and the paper banja came to decorate the King's and Queen's bedrooms. The traditional paper board banja benefits heat reservation, reduces the weight of the ceiling, and allows the adjustment of the lattice frame size. Furthermore, it can feature unique artistry if covered with blue, white, or red Neung-hwa-ji (traditional flower pattered paper).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.301-310
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to survey various recips of the roasted skewered beef (Sanjuk) with twenty three classical cookbooks written before 1943 in Korea. The recipes of the roasted skewered beef are found thirty times in the records, which can be classified into six groups such as the palm-type skewered beef (Sulhamyukjuk), little finger-type skewered beef, mixed skewered beef, juice skewered beef, little finger-type skewered internal organs, and wide-cut skewered internal organs. The palm-type skewered beef and the mixed skewered beef most frequently appeared in the records. The 'Sulhamyukjuk' in the 17th century were inherited while changing its name to 'Sanjuk' in the late 18th century, which is the origin of 'Bulkoki'. There were two types of the roasted skewered beef, the palm-type and the little finger-type; and the palm type preceded the little finger-type. They were used with no change until the 19th century. Actually the roasted skewered beef existed even in the 16th century, but were put down in the early 17th century. In the cooking of 'Sulhamyukjuk' the process of dipping shortly into cold water in the midst of roast seems to absolutely disappeared. Some recipes of the roasted skewered beef were lost, but most have been inherited in the similar way with simplification including little use of internal organs. The main ingredients consisted of parts of cattle such as fresh meat, intestines, heart, liver, omasum, tripe, head, sweet bread, and lung with various vegetables and mushroom. And the main seasonings were mixtures of oil, soy sauce, sesame seed powder, scallion stalk, pepper, sesame seed oil, and salt. And sometimes wine, vinegar, ginger, garlic, and sugar were added.

• Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.129-140
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to reconsider existing hypotheses on the orinination and changes of changbang-anchogongs and their types and suggest an alternative hypothesis. The earliest changbang-anchogongs in $17^{th}$ century is presumed to originate as imitations of chungbang ppaelmoks for ornamental and reinforcing parts for changbangs. They were framed whole sides of buildings equally, and were used in small numbers of extant royal buildings and Buddhist halls. From late $17^{th}$ century, enlarged dragon shape changbang-anchogongs applied to Buddhist halls maily to decorate and strengthen front side of buildings. As a result of exchange between changbang-anchogongs and Ikgong type brackets, combined changbang-anchogongs in Buddhist halls were invented for stronger connection with upper bracketing units and have been spread during $18^{th}$ century. Danpyeongbang anchogongs were originated by the connection between short pieces of pyeongbangs and early type of anchogongs similar to ppaelmoks. They belong to minority subtype, but were drawn in illustrations by mistake, as parts of main halls of royal palaces from $19^{th}$ century, because of painter's confusion about new techniques for changbang-anchogongs. Combined changbang-anchogongs for royal buildings were presumed to be invented in 1790s by stimulation from a Buddhist hall related to royal tomb. However, unlike Buddhist precedence, they were used to reinforce and decorate whole sides, even corners, of buildings, and their frameworks and shapes were imported from Daeryang-anchogongs at flanks of ritual halls in royal tombs and royal shrines from $17^{th}$ century.

• Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.447-470
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine how the cultural aspects of the publication of literary collections have been changed from its time throughout the entire Joseon Dynasty. At the royal court in the early Joseon Dynasty, the need for publication of the literary collections has consistently arisen to preserve writings of the noted sages, and the Joseon government was also taking the lead and promoting the publication of the literary collections. From the 16th to the early 18th century, the publication was intensively made at the local governments led by local governors. From the 17th to the early to middle of the 18th century, the finances of local governments were limited with the changed taxation system, and there had been a dramatic decrease in the number of literary publication projects. On the other hand, with the sudden increase of the number of Seowons during the reign of King Sukjong, the focus of the literary publication was moved to Seowon from the 18th to the 19th century. After the enforcement of the Seowon Abolition Decree, the collections were still published at Seowons, however from the end of 19th century, the publication of literary collections had been explosively made by aristocrats who did not belong to the institution of Seowon or could not receive Seowon's support, which spreaded over the entire Yangban culture.