• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제47권3호
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• pp.188-207
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• 2014

홈스봄의 '만들어진 전통'은 최근에 등장한 역사인식의 한 방법론이다. 그에 따르면 만들어진 전통의 특수성은 과거와의 연속성을 인위적으로 내세우려 하는 것이며, 그 과정에서 전통들을 구성하는 데 낡은 재료들을 이용한다. 또한 그는 만들어진 전통은 사회화나 신념, 가치체계, 행위규범을 주입하는 데에 그 목표가 있다고 보았다. 본 논문은 그러한 인식틀을 가지고 19세기의 문화재 보존에 대하여 고찰하였다. 그리고 단순히 이를 적용하는 데에 그치지 않고 한 단계 더 발전적으로 나아가 그러한 현상들의 사상적 배경은 무엇이며, 그러한 현상을 만들어내는 데 있어서 과거에 대한 인식이 어떻게 작용했는지를 사례를 통해 분석하였다. 19세기 중반에 카톨릭의 교리와 의례를 새로운 신념과 가치체계로 주입하여 영국 국교의 종교적인 부활을 이루고자 했던 옥스퍼드 운동과 이를 실천하기 위한 행위규범으로 고딕양식을 종교적 공간에 재현하고자 한 캠브리지캄덴협회의 활동은 홈스봄이 제시한 전통을 만드는 행위에 있어서 핵심적인 요소이다. 그리고 그것이 종교건축의 보존에 있어서 그대로 적용되고 실천되었다는 점에서 전통과 보존은 같은 축 선상에 존재한다. 당시에 과거는 종교적 목적을 실천하기에 적합한 특정시대와 특정한 건축양식으로만 이해하는 단층적인 재료였으며, 과거를 인식하는 틀 역시 종교적인 목적이나 사회적, 정치적인 이념에 크게 영향을 받았다. 19세기 후반의 반복원 운동은 전대의 무분별한 양식적 복원을 막고자 했던 행위이다. 그리고 그 사상적 배경에는 변화된 과거 인식의 틀이 존재한다. 복원이라는 행위에 대한 개념정의가 보다 구체적으로 논의되기 시작하면서, 행위의 속성을 인식하는 관점에서 전대의 과거에 대한 인식이 수정되었다. 전통은, 혹은 과거는 현재에 되살려야 하는 대상이 아니고 현재에도 살아있는 생명체이며, 복원은 그러한 생명력을 오히려 빼앗는 행위라는 관점으로 과거에 대한 인식이 변화된 것이다. 즉, 있는 그대로의 과거, 다양한 가치가 존재하는 과거로 인식하게 되었으며, 그러한 태도가 문화재 보수에 적용되기 시작하는 시대이다. 이러한 고찰을 토대로 향후, 국내에서도 보다 다면적인 관점과 충분한 자료를 축적하여 우리의 문화재 보존사를 이해하고 분석하는 것이 필요할 것이다.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.144-151
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• 2005

This study examined food culture appearing in Giroyeon paintings in the late Chosun Dynasty (early $17^{th}{\sim}l9^{th}$ century), a period under political and economical difficulties in overcoming frustrations and looking for self-restoration methods after Imjinweran$(1592{\sim}1598)$ and Byungjahoran$(1636{\sim}1637)$. Paintings related to Giroyeon include Lee Gi-ryong's $(1600{\sim}?)$ painted in 1629 under the reign of King Injo $(1623{\sim}1649)$, painted jointly by Kim Jin-yeo et al. in 1720, the first year of King Gyeongjong $(1720{\sim}1724)$ and Kim Hong-do's painted in 1804 under the reign of King Sunjo $(1800{\sim}1834)$ in the early $19^{th}$ century. These paintings over three centuries of the late Chosun show changes in the character of Giroyeon, food culture and tableware culture, etc. According to these paintings, the character of Giroyeon was expanded from a feast held for high civil officials to a banquet comprehending general civil servants. These paintings show Hyangeumjueui, which means the decorum of respecting and sowing the aged men of virtue with alcohol beverage, table manner, seated culture represented by cushions and mats and individual-table culture. In addition, the expansion of demand for sunbaikja and chungwhabaikja and the diversification of vessels and dishes are demonstrated in Giroyeon paintings after Imjinweran in 1592. in this way, Giroyeon paintings show the historical characteristics of the late Chosun Dynasty, such as the collapse of Yangban-centered political system, the disintegration of the medieval system due to the emergence of the Silhak and the diversification of food culture.

• 인삼문화
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• 제1권
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• pp.67-77
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• 2019

이 논문은 1797년 고려홍삼 무역이 포삼제(包蔘制)라는 공식적인 제도로 시행된 이후 그 수출량과 홍삼세의 규모를 살핌으로써 고려홍삼 무역의 변동과 그 역사적 의미를 살펴보려는 것이다. 19세기 조선의 고려 홍삼무역은 조선 정부가 받아들이는 세금만으로도 공무역의 비용을 능가하였다. 조선은 인삼을 재배하는 농업기술과 저장 기간을 늘리는 홍삼 증포 기술을 바탕으로, 은화의 유출을 막고 중국의 완제품 및 원료를 들여와 국내 상업계와 수공업 및 광업부문을 자극했다. 더우기 조선정부는 고려 홍삼수출로 19세기 후반 매해 20만 냥에 달하는 재정 수입을 올릴 수 있었고, 한때는 중국에서 말굽 모양의 은을 사와서 호조에 비축하기도 했다. 세도정권하에서도 상업계가 전반적으로 활발하게 움직이고, 개성상인 의주상인 서울상인의 활동이 두드러진 것은 이러한 사정에 따른 것이다.

• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.155-164
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• 2014

This paper discusses the social changes in the late 19th century that provided a historical background in the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing in the West. It examines the social meanings of the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing at the time and traces the origins of these social characteristics to the book published in the $16^{th}$ century by Thomas More, Utopia. The results of this study can be summarized as the following. First, the appearance and expansion of the ready-to-wear clothing coincided with the social transition from a class-based society to a democratic society in the west in the $19^{th}$ century. Second, uniforms were produced in the $18^{th}$ century Europe in order to distinguish different classes and ethnic groups, with the military uniforms being the most visible example. Frequent military campaigns in Europe resulted in the increasing demand and expansion of military uniforms, which later became the basis of the standardization of the men's clothing with uniforms. Third, the women's ready-to-wear clothing appeared later than their male counterpart and was made possible by the simplification of design, an important characteristic of women's wear in the later period. Fourth, the social characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be traced to a democratic and egalitarian society without personal properties that was depicted in the book of Utopia by Thomas More. Fifth, one of the characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be found in the description of Utopia, in which everyone in Utopia wears a clothing of the same form for life.

• 동남아시아연구
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.93-134
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• 2013

This paper examines the formation and evolution of Chinese society in Penang over 155 years. Since it was ruled by the British in 1786, many immigrants gathered in Penang. Among them, much of the population was Chinese. It could be offered to clarify the historical process of the development of Chinese society in Penang by paying attention to the three items - opium, tin, and rubber. All the conflict and friction over these products were main causes of prosperity and decay for the Chinese society in Penang. In the early 19th century, the Chinese colossus could get their capital accumulation by taking advantage of 'opium farm'. They amassed their fortune through development of tin mines newly discovered in Perak during the late 19th century. It was the age of Chinese Colossuses deeply connected with Chinese secret societies. After the rubber plantations were developed by the Western capital in the early 20th century, the age of Chinese Colossuses was gradually fallen down. From this point of view one can be provided a new perspective on the history of Penang and the Chinese society of its own. The three scopes for history enable us to make a new interpretation about the issue of stratification within Chinese society in Penang. Especially this research focused on the economic characteristics of Chinese secret societies as 'social capital', and on the identity conflicts between traditional Strait Chinese(peranakan) elite and emerging sinkeh Chinese merchants. The identity problem between 'Laokeh' and 'Sinkeh' in the early 20th century was intentionally exaggerated by modern researchers. Their conflicts seems to be caused by different economic interests rather than identity. We need to consider again the rise and fall of Chinese society in Penang with flexible thinking.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2023

Korean architecture classifies Banja (the decorated flat of the ceiling visible from the inside) of Royal Palaces into two types: Woomul(water-well, 井) banja, which inserts rectangular wooden board into lattice frame, and paper banja, which applies paper to the flat ceiling. Such classification was established in the 19th century. Before that, Banja was classified according to what was inserted into the lattice frame, either wooden or paper board. At first, the banja that used paper board was widely installed regardless of the purpose or nobility of the building. However, since the 17th century, the use of paper board banja became mostly restricted to Ondol (Korean floor heating system) rooms which are characterized by private usage and the importance of heating, and it was considered inferior to wooden board banja in terms of rank or grace. The contemporary paper banja was mainly installed in low-rank ondol rooms until the late 19th century to early 20th century, when roll-type wallpaper was introduced from the West and the paper banja came to decorate the King's and Queen's bedrooms. The traditional paper board banja benefits heat reservation, reduces the weight of the ceiling, and allows the adjustment of the lattice frame size. Furthermore, it can feature unique artistry if covered with blue, white, or red Neung-hwa-ji (traditional flower pattered paper).

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.301-310
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to survey various recips of the roasted skewered beef (Sanjuk) with twenty three classical cookbooks written before 1943 in Korea. The recipes of the roasted skewered beef are found thirty times in the records, which can be classified into six groups such as the palm-type skewered beef (Sulhamyukjuk), little finger-type skewered beef, mixed skewered beef, juice skewered beef, little finger-type skewered internal organs, and wide-cut skewered internal organs. The palm-type skewered beef and the mixed skewered beef most frequently appeared in the records. The 'Sulhamyukjuk' in the 17th century were inherited while changing its name to 'Sanjuk' in the late 18th century, which is the origin of 'Bulkoki'. There were two types of the roasted skewered beef, the palm-type and the little finger-type; and the palm type preceded the little finger-type. They were used with no change until the 19th century. Actually the roasted skewered beef existed even in the 16th century, but were put down in the early 17th century. In the cooking of 'Sulhamyukjuk' the process of dipping shortly into cold water in the midst of roast seems to absolutely disappeared. Some recipes of the roasted skewered beef were lost, but most have been inherited in the similar way with simplification including little use of internal organs. The main ingredients consisted of parts of cattle such as fresh meat, intestines, heart, liver, omasum, tripe, head, sweet bread, and lung with various vegetables and mushroom. And the main seasonings were mixtures of oil, soy sauce, sesame seed powder, scallion stalk, pepper, sesame seed oil, and salt. And sometimes wine, vinegar, ginger, garlic, and sugar were added.

• 대한건축학회논문집:계획계
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• 제34권9호
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• pp.129-140
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to reconsider existing hypotheses on the orinination and changes of changbang-anchogongs and their types and suggest an alternative hypothesis. The earliest changbang-anchogongs in $17^{th}$ century is presumed to originate as imitations of chungbang ppaelmoks for ornamental and reinforcing parts for changbangs. They were framed whole sides of buildings equally, and were used in small numbers of extant royal buildings and Buddhist halls. From late $17^{th}$ century, enlarged dragon shape changbang-anchogongs applied to Buddhist halls maily to decorate and strengthen front side of buildings. As a result of exchange between changbang-anchogongs and Ikgong type brackets, combined changbang-anchogongs in Buddhist halls were invented for stronger connection with upper bracketing units and have been spread during $18^{th}$ century. Danpyeongbang anchogongs were originated by the connection between short pieces of pyeongbangs and early type of anchogongs similar to ppaelmoks. They belong to minority subtype, but were drawn in illustrations by mistake, as parts of main halls of royal palaces from $19^{th}$ century, because of painter's confusion about new techniques for changbang-anchogongs. Combined changbang-anchogongs for royal buildings were presumed to be invented in 1790s by stimulation from a Buddhist hall related to royal tomb. However, unlike Buddhist precedence, they were used to reinforce and decorate whole sides, even corners, of buildings, and their frameworks and shapes were imported from Daeryang-anchogongs at flanks of ritual halls in royal tombs and royal shrines from $17^{th}$ century.

• 한국도서관정보학회지
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• 제44권3호
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• pp.447-470
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• 2013

이 논문은 조선시대 전반에 걸쳐 목판본 문집 간행의 문화적 양상이 시기에 따라 어떻게 변화하였는지에 관한 연구이다. 조선 초기 조정에서는 명현의 글을 보존하기 위해 문집 간행의 필요성이 계속적으로 부각되었으며, 국가에서 적극적으로 개입하여 문집 간행을 주도하였다. 16세기부터 18세기 초반에는 감사 수령이 중앙에서 지방으로 파견되어 그들의 주도에 의해 지방관아에서 문집이 집중적으로 간행되었다. 17세기를 거쳐 18세기 초중반에는 부세 제도 변화로 지방관아의 재정이 제한되어 문집간행 사업이 현격하게 줄어든 반면, 숙종대에 서원의 수가 폭증하자 지방관 중심의 문집 간행이 18~19세기에는 서원 중심으로 전개되었다. 19세기 후반에는 이전 시기의 형태들이 여전히 존재하였던 반면, 서원의 제도권에 속하지 못하거나 서원의 지지를 얻지 못하였던 사족들의 문집 간행이 19세기 말부터 폭발적으로 이루어져 양반층 전반의 문화로 확산되어 갔다.