• 건축역사연구
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.115-131
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• 2007

Jeong Woo-tae(?-1809) was a military official who had worked as Byeol-Gan-Yeok in the governmental construction works during the late 18th century through the early 19th century. Byel-Gan-Yeok, literally a special technician, was an official post in the governmental construction works that carries specific technical tasks from the mid 18th century. Over 30 years, Jeong Woo-tae had devoted himself in the construction of various royal tombs, city walls, and palace buildings. He showed superb and various techniques in the works of stone carving and architectural details. After finishing the construction of the tomb of King Jeong-jo's father successfully, he was appointed as a governor of a rural town. Being on duty of the governor, he used to participate in the construction works as a technician. He also made a couple of innovative devices in the field of construction, like a carrying apparatus, Byel-Nok-No. His works secured the setting up of the post of Byel-Gan-Yeok in the governmental construction system in the 19th century. But his technical achievement remained as his own private works rather than developing to the universal growth of the craftsmen's skill. This might be a limitation of the Byel-gan-Yeok's role, whose position was remained in the midway between official and craftsman.

• 영상문화
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• 제17권
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• pp.65-92
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• 2011

본 논문은 영화의 직접적인 선조이자 근대의 대표적인 영상매체였던 마술환등(magic lantern) 영상의 환상성과 계몽성, 그리고 그 복합성에 대해 분석하고자 한다. 여기서는 과학의 발달에 따라 변화되는 영상물 이미지의 특성과 그로 인한 영상문화의 변화 현상에 주목한다. 18세기 후반부터 19세기 전반 과학이 발달하기 전 까지 마술환등의 영상은 유령·귀신 모티브를 중심으로 괴기스러운 환영(판타스마고리아)을 보여주며 관람객들을 놀라게 하고, 자연재해 스펙타클이나 아이들을 위한 동화·우화를 보여주고 들려주면서 오락적인 기능을 수행했다. 19세기 중반 이후 마술환등은 점차 지구에 관한 과학적 지식과 먼 곳, 낯선 세계에 관한 민속학적 내용을 보여주며 교육적인 기능을 수행했고, 근대인들의 계몽과정에 기여했다. 마술환등의 이런 두 가지 기능은 역사 진행에 따라 확연히 분리되며 순차적으로 전개된 것이 아니라, 세계관과 시대문화의 변화에 따라 한쪽의 기능이 우세하게 작용했다. 시각적 환상에 근거한 마술환등의 오락적 기능은 19세기 후반에도 계속 존재했으며, 산업화된 시대의 마술환등에는 환상이 다시 도래하여 환상성과 계몽성이 복합된 영상들이 보여졌다. 후기 산업사회에 관람자들은 탈신화화(脫神話化)된 세계가 아니라 오히려 재마법화(再魔法化)(re-enchantment)를 원하는 현상이 있다. 이것은 과학이 더욱 발달되어 갈수록 사람들에게서는 오히려 신비로운 환상이 증대되고 있고, 영상물에서 환상을 찾고 싶어한다는 것을 말해준다.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.7-22
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• 2013

Gimlyong-sa temple has played an important role of Buddhist culture in Gyeongsangdo Provinces(嶺南地域) in the late Joseon Dynasty as the 31st head temple(本山) in the Japanese occupation. There are lots of architectural documentary records remained nevertheless, most of cultural heritages are destroyed by fire in 1997. There were 85 articles in five kinds of books which contained historical achievements of Gimlyong-sa temple and hermitages(Daeseongam(大成庵), Hwajangam(華藏庵), Yangjinam(養眞庵), Geum seondae(金仙臺), Dosoram(兜率庵), Myeongjeogam(明寂庵)). It is possible to understand the five situational peculiarities in the 17~19th century. At the first, they were compiled in 1914 to around 1930 by Kwon Sangro(權相老) to clarify the historical facts. Second, confirmed the formation process of the foundation narrative. Third, the meaning of Seolseondang(設禪堂), Manseru(萬歲樓) and Hyangnojeon(香爐殿) were recorded, it is possible to look at the concept of people at that time. Fourth, the great masters portraits were enshrined in hermitages, not in Gimlyong-sa temple. It means that a hermitage is not for only self-discipline or living but assembly of religious orders(門派). Fifth, Chimgye(枕溪), the great Buddhist clergy and carpenter of Gimlyong-sa, was nationwide active worker in 19th century because he was also in a charge of investment manager for construction.

• 한국제4기학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.47-52
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• 2001

설악산 백담산장 (해발고 400m) 지역에서 자라는 소나무를 이용하여 141년 (A.D. 1858∼1998)간의 나무나이테(연륜) 연대기를 작성하여 4월∼8월 총강수량을 복원하였다. 복원한 결과 1880∼1887년, 1893∼1901년, 1922∼1938년은 건조기로 나타났으며, 1906∼1918년은 습윤기로 나타났다. 장기간 변동으로 보았을 때, 19세기말과 20세기초는 20세기 후반기보다 건조하였다. 전기간에 걸친 가뭄주기는 4.14년과 3.16년으로 분석되어 장주기보다 단주기 변화가 우세하였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.49-62
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• 2004

By delivery means of fashion information, fashion dolls appeared in 18th century. According to development of printing, delivery means of fashion information changed from fashion dolls to fashion plates. Fashion plates offer a colorful and in depth view of the stylish fashions of the past. First fashion plate was Hollars print that was inserted to $\ulcorner$La Galerie des Modes et Costumes Francais$\lrcorner$ and that was published at England in 1643. First fashion plate in France could assumes as winter deshabill that was inserted to $\ulcorner$Le Mercure Galant$\lrcorner$ in 1678. The widespred publication of fashion plates began in England and France in the late 18th century. The first true fashion magazine $\ulcorner$The Ladys Magazine$\lrcorner$ was published at London in 1770. And suddenly similar plates were being published all over Europe. Fashion plates reached their height of popularity in the mid-1800s. Modern age in Europe for fashion magazines golden age, hundreds kinds of fashion magazines published in Europe. Copyright laws in Europe were not enforced, resulting in widespread piracy of fashion designs and plates. After 19th century, America and Europe used much Paris imitation plate. $\ulcorner$The Ladys Magazine$\boxUl$, $\ulcorner$La Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Francais$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Les Cabinet des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Journal des Dames et des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$The Ladys Monthly Museum$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in 18th century. $\ulcorner$The Ladys Pocket Magazine$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$La Mode$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Le Follet$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$La Mode Illustree$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$$\ulcorner$The Queen$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in 19th century. $\ulcorner$Journal des Dames et des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Gazette du bon ton$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in early 20th century.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제37권
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• pp.121-150
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• 2004

일반적으로 산수표현을 많이 하는 불화 장르로는 십육나한도를 비롯하여 팔상도, 감로도, 관음보살도 등과 조선후기에 특히 많이 조성된 독성도나 산신도 등을 들 수 있다. 이들 불화는 대체로 산수를 비롯하여 다양한 배경을 갖추고 있는데, 18세기 이후 수묵적 전통이 남아있는 경우도 있지만 화려한 채색과 산수를 비롯한 다양한 경물의 표현으로 복잡해지는 경향이 강해지며, 19세기에는 흔히 말하는 민화적 요소가 등장하여 시대적인 경향을 보여 준다. 19세기 말~20세기 초에 제작된 16나한도는 이러한 경향 중에서도 배경묘사에 있어서 전통적인 요소도 있지만 그보다는 채색이나 제재면에서 시대적인 예술경향을 반영하는 민화적인 배경이 가장 다양하고 뚜렷하게 부각되어 배경표현의 주된 요소가 된다는 점에서 다른 불화와 차별된다. 즉 조선후기 16나한도에는 당시 유행하던 민화풍과 궁중화풍 등에서 보이던 청록산수식의 배경묘사가 두드러지며 십장생(十長生) 운룡(雲龍) 맹호(猛虎) 괴석(怪石) 화조(花鳥) 책가(冊架) 등과 같은 새로운 배경표현이 등장하여 폭넓은 수용 태도를 보여준다. 대체로 제재면에서는 수명장수, 부귀, 기복과 관련된 길상 상징물이 압도적으로 많음을 알 수 있는데, 이는 조선시대 서민불교로의 전환이라는 불교계의 동향, 특히 도교와 민간신앙과의 습합이라는 불교계의 자구적 모색과 밀접한 관련을 갖고 있다. 이는 16나한도나 당시 불화에 표현된 다양한 도교인물들의 모습을 통해서 엿볼 수 있다. 주로 19세기 말~20세기 초에 제작된 16나한도에 정형화된 양식의 민화풍이 등장한다는 것은 현존 민화의 제작연대를 추론하는 하나의 단서를 제공해 줄 것으로 생각하며, 불화승들이 민간의 수요와 요청에 의해 민화의 작가로 제작에 적극적으로 참여하였을 가능성을 시사하고 있다. 조선후기 불화에서의 민화적 요소의 고찰은 그 제재나 형태상의 유사점에서 출발했지만, 극단적인 희화화라든가 파격미 등은 보이지 않는다. 오히려 궁중의 장식그림과 유사한 양식의 표현이 많다는 점은 종교화로서의 기능을 갖추고 있는 불화라서 가능했던 것으로 생각한다.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.67-80
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• 1998

Being located in the east of the Mediterranean Sea, Cyprus used to play a bridge role of cultural exchanges between the East and the West during period of being occupied. As a consequence the fact that the style of costume might be changed at certain levels during the time is broadly accepted. Basic structure of Cypriot men's clothes during the late of the 19th century to the middle of 20th century is composed of\circled1 baggy trousers(vraka) \circled2 shirt(chemise) \circled3 jacket(ziboune/zibouna) \circled4 waistcoat(yilekko) \circled5 headdress(fez, kourouklin) \circled6 accessories. General composition of women's wear is \circled1 pantaloons(vrandzin) \circled2 shift(poukamiso) \circled3 outer garment(sayia, foustani, Amalia, costume) \circled4 waist kerchief(mandili tis koxas)\circled5 boots(podines)/pumps(goves) \circled6 scarves and accessories. As reviewed above, although men's clothes are still worn on a day to day basis, women's wear continues to exist only for festivals or as a tourist attraction. It was understood that this was an accepted consequence of 20th century modernization and reformation.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.32-43
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• 2011

This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.29-44
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• 2013

This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.143-160
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• 1999

The purpose of this dissertation is to interpret fashion through a socio-cultural phenomenon called kitsch by understanding its aesthetic characteristics and clarifying its significance in the modern consumer society and analyzing the examples of kitsch appearing in modern fashion. The following are the arguments and conclusion of this dissertation. First kitsch has negative meanings such as aesthetic inadequacy or bad tastes implying vulgar popular tastes of faked sensations just imitating elite culture and using things indiscriminately for inferior reproduction or at best the philosophical and aesthetic category that expresses the mass of people's attitudes toward life in accepting the consumer culture of the industrial society. It started from the art of romanticism accompanied by th commercializing of art with the bourgeois society background formed in the mid-19th century. Though kitsch started to prevail following the socio-cultural changes caused by the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century it is only in the late 20th century that kitsch has come tc our everyday life and has become an object of aesthetic arguments. Second formative characteristics of kitsch appearin in fashion have a cumulative inadequate romantic pleasure-seeking satirizing and multicomplex nature. Third the socio-cultural meanings of kitsch appearing in fashion are as follows: The extension of commercialism which gratifies the pleasure-seeking mass consumers the enlargement of the aesthetic category by inclining to everyday commonplace aesthetic sense the expression of one's identity through the gratification of desire and the new aesthetics of resistance and deviance by an anti-traditional and anti-elite tendency towards the traditional society and aesthetic values.