• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.952-959
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• 2012

This study looks into the changes in collar patterns in tailored jackets with different numbers of buttons. The study discusses the pattern design method of tailored colors in 4 different styles, such as the effect of the number of buttons of tailored jackets on collar width and length, lapel width and length, and angle of lapel and overall balance in design. Through the first dress experiment, patterns were adjusted and corrected. The second dress experiment was conducted with the modified experimental clothes. The results of comparison and analysis are as follows. The 1 button tailored jacket was most preferred for its beautiful expression and overall balance of upper color and lapel when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The second most preferred one was the 2 button tailored jacket with lapel width of 8 cm, and the 3 button jacket showed relatively good balance when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The 4 button tailored jacket showed a bad balance in collar and button. Also, its overall silhouette was disappointing and thus was less preferred than others. For smaller number of buttons, the angle of lapel's break line increased, thus displaying a more refined and slim silhouette. On the other hand, the angle of lapel's break line decreased for greater number of buttons, thus displaying a dull and fat image. As a result, the jacket with many buttons was less preferred.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.421-430
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• 2011

This study suggests the proper collar laying amount to be actively used in the clothing industry by identifying the characteristics of collar and other related components according to the collar laying amount. This study comparatively analyzed the characteristics of each collar laying amount (2cm, 2.5cm, 3cm, 3.5cm, 4cm, and 4.5cm) after making 6 tailored jackets. The results are as follows: 1. The best shape of collar and lapel appeared when the collar laying amount was 3cm and 3.5cm. 2. Depending on the collar laying amount, the shape of collar, roll line form of collar and lapel, collar width, collar stand, the position and width of roll line changed. As the collar laying amount increased, the length of collar edge became longer, and the collar stand decreased. In case the collar laying amount was small (2cm, 2.5cm), the width of collar and lapel became narrower. On the contrary, when it is large (4cm, 4.5cm), the width of collar and lapel became wider. 3. Collar laying amount as well as the length of the neck line of collar affected the shape of the collar roll line around the neck.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.367-376
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket focused on the collar's figure according to the body type and the degree of satisfaction with their body of middle-aged women. For this study, twenty seven different types of tailored jacket were designed with some variation of their silhouette, the length and the collar's figure on three hundred and twenty three middle-aged women ranging from 35 to 50 years old. There was a significant difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the body type of middleaged women. The women of the type 1 evaluated that portrait lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. The women of the type 2 evaluated that breast lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. The women of the type 3 evaluated that breast lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. The women of the type 4 evaluated that waist lapel collar were the most fascinating, elegant and active, tender and they preferred that style. There was a meaningful difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the degree of satisfaction with their bodies. As satisfied with their face size, they thought breast/portrait lapel collar were more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred that style. As satisfied with weight they regarded portrait lapel collar as more attrative, graceful and active, soft and they preferred that style. In this study we found that the middle-aged women evaluated the tailored jacket which was looking esthetic and fitting their body types, as the most attrative, elegant, active, and tender clothing and they prefered that kind of tailored jacket.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.640-650
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• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• The monthly packaging world
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• s.54
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• pp.150-153
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• 1997

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.947-954
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.79-90
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• 2000

The purpose of this research is to offer basic data for the study of men's suit by investigating the preference of design and form for men's suits. For data collection, a questionnaire was composed stymie of suits, form of lapel and vent of suits etc‥‥ The subjects of this research were male aged 20-59 and resided in Seoul and the capital region. The results of the research are summarized as the following: 1. Most men tend to prefer a set of suits rather than combination and formal style rather than casual or character style. And most of men like a little enough fittiness of suits. 2. Most men tend to prefer single-breasted jacket rather than double-breasted one. they also tend to prefer notched lapel and no vent jacket, especially men who work in sale, office and an independent enterprise. 3. Men who aged 20-40 tend to prefer classical pants, and one who aged 50 like wide pants. They also tend to prefer pants with pleats rather than one with darts. 4. Most men tend to prefer plain cloth rather than check, stripe pattem, and they tend to select blue and black color as their suits.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.83-101
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to investigate relation between kucha and Korea by comparing costume. The results are as follows. First, During 508th century, wall paintings of Kizil and Kuizilkargha showed traditional costume such as cutting hair , lapel coller and fitting sleeve coat, pants, boots , belts and knife. Kumtura were also in 6 th, but under the influence of China and Hoehol (회골) after 7th. Second, Men and women cutting hair except king, they put on cone shaped hat and Kun (건), clothing were made of felt and kun(면). Third, it was influenced by Iran that cutting hair in Silla (신라) and Kucha. In Silla , round neckline and V neckline were existed except lapel collar. Jeweled knife of Silla and Kuncha , pattern of Kumdonglee(금동복) showed cultural exchange of centural Asia and Korea along the Silk Rood. It is conscious that Silla preferred centural asia of texture and jewels by prohibition of costume.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.552-563
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• 2019

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.53-60
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• 2001

The Miao nationality is one of China's major ethnic group. The Miao traditional costume, as an ideographic symbol of the Miao people, have preserved its unique characteristics up to the present time. Historically there were many old names given only for ciothings, still they have reflected the complexities of the ciothings of the Miao people. The southeast Guizhou (Qiandongnan) modal of dress and ornament are fashionable in countries in the valley of Qingshui River such as Taijiang, Kaili, Leishan, Jianhe, Huangping, Shibing, which are densely populated with the Miao nationality. Women's traditional wear for the most part consists of a short coat with straight sleeves and the left lapel of the collar overlaps the right one (In some areas, the right lapel overlaps the left one). For lower garments, they wear long or medium sized pleated skirts, broad waistbands and leggings. Their attire may be of the same style, but there exist marked regional differences and distinctive features in dress materials, workmanship, contents and variety of designs and colour matching, as evolved from tradition. Merely from the embroidering skill and the materials used, one can judge where the dress is made.