• 대한가정학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.157-183
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• 1990

This study is proposed to research the rural clothing, dietary and housing style of living in order to adapt a basis which is supposed to improve the quality of rural life. The sample in this research comes from Daehang 1 Li, Bubuk Myun, Miryang Gun, Kyungnam, and the results are as following; Generally rural housewives are unconcerned with fashion or its information, instead, they care for the casual wear which represents economic and active life style. Because of their financial problems, inpurchasing, they spend only a small money without plan. When they launder Clothes, they use washing bat and pannel which is easy to break fabrics, and they ineffectively use to dry it by hands twisting. The total food intake per person in a day is 1170.6gram, and all nutrients intakes except fat and calcium exceed the recommended dietary allowances. But 90.3% of the food intakes are plant food, and the average food items taken per day per househod is 11.9items which are not so various, which represents the shortage of the nutrient quality. Both the nutrition knowledge score and the food habit score are very low. Therefore, in order to enhance the quality of clothing and diet in rural life, they need to learn clothing and nutrition management for their enlightment. The most comprehensive type of farmhouse site plan take the shape of ㄱ and ㄴ, and for the most part main building is the floor plan which includes 3-4 spans in front of the change from the type of traditional house, throught the revised one, to the type of newly built house. In main building of the farmhouse, kitchen, Kunbang and Chakunbang are extended to their real space, and both utility and the bathroom are added to build, and Malu is transformed into the living space.

• 복식
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• 제48권
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• pp.183-196
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• 1999

The purpose of the Present research is to investigate the effect of fashion lifestyle on babies' clothing shopping attitude of housewives. In this study shopping attitude includes criteria for shop selection prefered types of shop and prefered shop atmosphere. Subjects are 447 housewives residing in Seoul Bundang Illsan and Pungchon and having child under 4 years old Data was analyzed by factor analysis cluster analysis analysis of variance and chi-square. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Housewives can be classified into four groups according to their fashion lifestyle the group of planned buying conservative/practical group the group of self-actualization/individuality and the high involved and care for shopping group. 2. Fashion lifestyle is different according to their age. The high involved and care for shopping group have the lager proportion in twenties than thirties. The conservative/practical group have a larger proportion in thirties. 3. The factors of shop selection which serve as criteria for shop the quality of service encironment anround shop quality of goods convenience to care about babies fashionable goods location of the shop and price of goods. The group of self actualization/personality prefers shops carrying fashionable and unique style of babies clothing and showing prestige. The conservative/practical group prefers shops carrying good quality clothing and having variety in size and design. The high involved and careful shopping group prefers shops having wide space as well as carrying fashionable goods. 4. Among the types of babies clothing shops. department stroe is the most preferred Low-price brand shop is followed by traditional open market. The conservative/practical group and the group of planned shopping use department strores national bran shops street shops and import shops more often than other groups. 5. The result of the study indicates there are considerable differences in housewives attitudes of babies clothing shopping acording to their own fashion lifestyle. Therefore the retailer of babies clothing should decide their marketing policy on the basis of the understanding and analysis of costomer's fashion lifestyle. And they have to reflect their costomer's shopping attitudes on their marketing policy to improve the satisfaction of both consumer and retailer as well.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.117-130
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• 2010

The four walls of mural paintings in Afrasiab, Samarkand, have discovered: the indian-concept east wall, the west with the paintings of envoys from a number of countries bringing in King's letters or gifts, the south describing traditional ceremony celebrating the new year, the north with a picture of a Chinese princess on board beside hunting scenes. Overall, Sogdians in Afrasiab mural paintings of 7th century had following costume codes: a very short haircut or the Turkic queue, a rather-narrow-sleeved caftan with round-neck, a belt and boots. The west wall showed various costume style of a set of envoys from countries. First, a Turkic envoy had 3-6 rows of long plaits, wearing a caftan with two lapels and a belt - interestingly, Sogdian and Turkic nobles didn't wear pochettes. Second, a Chaganiyan had a hairband on his short hair, and his colorful round-neck caftan is decorated with animal-patterned medallions and a golden belt. Third, a Chach wore a jewelled hairband, putting gaiters on his pants. Forth, a Chinese was in putou with a round-neck caftan, and with a belt and sword around his waist. Lastly, also appeared a Koguryo envoy in white putou with a double-bird-feathered crown on top, wearing a long-sleeved yellow v-neck top, a belt, narrow-cuffed pants and boots. Identical to the Sogdian statues excavated in various regions of China are the appearance of big eyes and nose -similar to the warrior stone in Korea- a hairband, and a pochette down from the waist line. During this period, white and red were considered as prevailing colors for clothing: red and yellow among Turks. The costumes of characters in Afrasiab mural paintings were preferably made with the animal-patterned, sophiscated samite Zandanachi of Sogdiana.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.145-156
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• 2009

This study proposes the product development through an organic link with multi-faceted analysis on the archetype of traditional costumes culture. In order to find ways to develop cultural products, Jogakbo was selected, and the research result is as following. 1. Analysis on the types of Jogakbo products sold in the market shows that there are not only living, stationary, and fashion items, but also DIY packages. In terms of materials used, most of these Jogakbo products were made of fabric or mixture of different materials. These products displayed similar tendency by reflecting formative characteristics of Jogakbo. 2. This study analyzed the color, surface composition, material, manufacturing, and usage of Jogakbo. The rotor of Jogakbo is mostly composed of mono tone colors or Obangsac(five-element colors). The mono tone colors carries environmentally friendly meaning as it is using the natural color and Obangsac means harmony. Moreover, the surface composition of Jogakbo represents the expansion through connection and its material is also meaningful in that it is recycling. Manufacturing of Jogakbo has educational significance, fortune-wishing characteristics, decorative function, it also gives a gratification of handcraft. The usage of Jogakbo is a multi-(unctional article whose form is determined by an item that is held inside it. 3. Through the analysis on Jogakbo, this study presents the baby wear in relation to the ere-friendliness of colors, brooch sets using the surface composition, dresses using recycling fabric, children's educational instruments with educational significance, as well as multi-functional packages in regards to usage of Jogakbo.

• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.29-44
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• 2014

This thesis aims to compare the representative costume patterns of the Chinese Qing dynasty and contemporary $18^{th}$ century French costumes. As a research method, qualitative research was performed to compare and analyze the patterns of the flowers, the birds and pagoda shown in Qing dynasty and France. The results are as follows: The Chinese flower patterns used the embroidery technique for 3-step gradation colors to decorate flowers with less than 10 petals. Also, the forms of the flowers were large and simple in China. The flower patterns of the 18th century France is more similar to those of Qing dynasty than to the traditional French flower patterns. They used the drawing technique for the gradation colors and completed the work by embroidery. In the case of bird patterns, the crane on menswear, and the phoenix on women's wear were applied to signify the symbolic feature of the Chinese symbolism. On the other hand, those in France were used solely for the division of the gender. As a result the clear form of the birds in China contrasted with the unclear forms of birds in France. During the influx of mandarine square to France from China, the application of crane and phoenix according to gender seems to be stressed emphatically without considering their symbolic meaning. In light of the pagoda pattern, Qing dynasty showed interest only in the form of pagoda, denoting the simple two-tier structure without detailed description. Whereas in France, the pagodas were three or four tiers, with gorgeous colors and much more detail than those of Qing dynasty. In conclusion, the main determinants of influences on the patterns of France from China would be forms, colors, constructions and technique of embroidery, along with the disregard for symbolic significance.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.165-180
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• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.71-88
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• 1998

This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.57-72
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• 2012

Interest in the environment is rising in all the sectors of industry and culture. Even in the fashion industry, fashion designers have recently begun delivering messages on the environment. In particular, $Issey$ $Miyake$ has been constantly interested in environmental issues, and has been deemed as a designer who values practicality and universality in clothing. This study seeks to examine Issey Miyake's fashion from the perspective of an eco-friendly design. This research analyzed collections of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980 to 2010 through photo works and www.firstview.com. The research method was to study 8 people who have professionalism in fashion design and have analyzed 201 works of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980s to 2000s that have the characteristics of eco-friendly design. The results showed the following characteristics of eco-friendly design in Issey Miyake's fashion : naturality, simplicity, sustainability and transformability. First, $Issey$ $Miyake$ preferred natural materials and used Japan traditional dyeing that integrated modern techniques for naturality. Second, he expressed simplicity in his fashion by applying the least cutting and sewing in geometric panels. Third, he pursued sustainability with comfortable clothing that anyone could wear regardless of trend, age and body shape. Finally, he developed the A-POC system that eliminated the usual needs for cutting and sewing and tried transformability on clothing using buttons, strings, belts, zippers, and layered styling.

• 복식
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• 제15권
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• pp.217-231
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• 1990

The purposes of this study were to research 1) the background of origination, 2) the process of development and 3) the influences to modern clothing culture of American sportswear. The most Influential sportswear designers in America from beginning period to present : such as Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan were selected to study their life and achievements in the world sportswear market. The Results were as follows : 1) World War I & II have caused the greatest changes to modern history America became the center of world economy, society and culture. Politically, they have influenced democracy world-wide and raised the social status of women. The free American women enjoyed sports, Jazz drinking and car-driving. The advanced technology have accelerated mechanization and mass-production to the fashion industrv. 2) The above historical backgrounds have caused to change women's clothing to casual, practical and simple form. Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor began promoting American designers who created the original American spirit. Claire McCardell created the seperated American sportswear to become world-wide fashion. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, the sportswear designers who have the unique American feeling have come to have riches and fames equal to the top designers in Paris. 3) The American sportswear and fashion industry influenced Paris Mode, the traditional Haute Couture to open Pret-a-porter-a-porter. The concept of seperated coordination in American sportswear have promoted the advanced marketing techniques and merchandising systems to modern ready-to-wear industry. Fashion in 1980s have increased the mutual interdepedence between the American sportswear industry and the creative Paris Mode. And then, the fashion world in 1990s and 21C will be changed and developed on the basis of American sportswear mechanism.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.450-470
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• 2018

This study examined the risk components and risk types perceived in the context of purchasing decisions of paper fashion products. This study also identified the levels of perceived risk by consumers and the differences between age groups in risk perception. First, qualitative data were collected through a focus group interview with 7 Korean females in their 20s to 50s. The interviewees were presented with two types of paper materials (undyed and dyed Jumchi-Hanji) and products (bags and wallets) made with the papers. The interviewees mentioned 11 risk components which were classified into five types of risks: performance (easily torn/lack of durableness, lint/pilling/wear-out, lack of water-resistant, no washability, and deformation and discoloration over time), social-psychological (old and traditional image), aesthetic (lack of design diversity, unsatisfactory appearance due to repair), financial (expensive price, lack of usability in daily life) and time/convenience (difficulty in handling) risks. Based on the results of the interview, a measurement for evaluating the risk perception of paper fashion products was developed. Second, quantitative data were collected from 64 Korean women in their 20s to 50s using the measurement. Respondents who were presented with the paper materials and the products perceived the performance risk more strongly than the social-psychological risk and aesthetic risk. In addition, differences between age groups were found: younger respondents perceived performance risk and social-psychological risk more strongly than older respondents, but older respondents perceived financial risk more than younger respondents. Based on this study, strategies for the risk reduction of paper fashion products were proposed.