• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.1137-1156
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• 2023

With the advent of artificial intelligence (AI) during the Fourth Industrial Revolution, the fashion industry has simplified the production process and overcome the technical difficulties of design. This study anticipates likely changes in the digital age and develops a model that will allow consumers to design textile patterns using AI technology. Previous studies and industrial examples of AI technology's use in the textile design industry were investigated, and a textile pattern was developed using an AI algorithm. A new textile design model was then proposed based on its application to both virtual and physical clothing. Inspired by traditional Korean masks and props, AI technology was used to input color data from open application programming interface images. By inserting these into various repeating structures, a textile design was developed and simulated as garments for both virtual and real garments. We expect that this study will establish a new textile design development method for Generation Z, who favor customized designs. This study can inform the use of personalization in generative textile design as well as the systemization of technology-driven methods for customized and participatory textile design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.69-78
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop a plan that adopts a fairly tale motif, which is familiar to children, to traditional Korean costume design factors for the development of practical Korean costume enterprises, which lead the Korean costume industry in its existence. Literary research and previous research methods had been used in this study. After comparing traditional Korean costume factors with practical Korean costume factors through literary research, we examined children's Korean costumes and ordinary children costumes. The results of this study are the following: First, the result of literary research, which used traditional Korean costume as motif of practical Korean costume and adopted model factors that the developed motif had used, shows that the design factors of practical Korean Costumes have changed from traditional to modern, seeking practicability and convenience over appearance. Second, practical Korean costumes are suitable when fairy tale illustration is applied to children with curiosity and warm emotions, and towards children, who spend much time on activity during growth. Third, making use of CAD system, which is different from practical Korean costume based on traditional patterns and single color, and using various pint pattern with many stories for the design of practical Korean costumes, and applying diversity to the market of practical Korean costumes, this study provides new design motif from, which people can feel more familiar to practical Korean costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.657-675
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• 2020

This study suggests a direction for design development through an analysis of the experiential rental Hanbok design in Jeonju Hanok Village. As a research method, 268 outfit photographs of tourists wearing experiential rental Hanbok for women were collected as design analysis data from Jeonju Hanok Village. Frequency analysis was then performed by dividing into form, color, material·pattern, and detail. The controversy over the design of experiential rental Hanbok revolves around how and how much tradition is reflected. This is a very important part of the design analysis and development direction. If necessary, traditionality was discussed using the Hanbok style of the Joseon Dynasty as a standard. Development directions derived from the analysis are summarized as follows. First, avoid the distorted shape of skirts. Second, develop underwear for traditional silhouettes. Third, expand traditional colorations and avoid the excessive use of accent colors. Fourth, it is necessary to develop rental Hanbok materials with decorative features. Fifth, there is a need to design flat pattern construction for rental Hanbok that reflects a standardized production method and a changed aesthetics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1627-1637
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• 2002

The objective of this study is to analyze the images of basic bodice apparel displayed on the PC monitor connected to digital camera, and to suggest a more efficient alternative method that enables the expert judge to evaluate the subject both traditional method and displayed images on the computer. Appearance evaluation has traditionally been assessed using subjective method dependent upon expertjudges' senses with the naked eye after direct observation of a living model. This research faces the new challenge focusing on the sensory evaluation of appearance for basic apparel patterns, which can overcome the space and time limitations of the traditional feet methods. A total fifteen basic bodice garment (3 types of $pattern\;{\times}\;5$ subject) were constructed with same fabrics. The appearance evaluation items consist of lg questions of upper torso. The image takes font, back and side view of the dressed subject with three different situations. Data was analyzed using percentiles, standard deviation T-test and ANOVA. Taken together, the present result of appearance evaluation through digital camera image shows that there is a significant difference ($p{\leq}.001$) in the response to the placement of the neckline, the waist & shoulder dart, the general ease of the bust & waist area, the side seam, the perpendicular of the waist hem and general acceptability between the above three different situations; the image in the condition of greenish yellow background with front light showed the highest score through all questions. These results depend on the kind of background colors with the light.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1386-1397
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• 2009

This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.149-161
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• 2008

Since the use of textile has become more extensive and applied for various products, today, the importance of utility, ornament and civilization of textile is emphasized. Textile design should be able to satisfy the designer's creativity and his/her world of art. Moreover, it should be appropriate for the industrial technology circumstances, and taste of consumers. In Korea, traditional culture has been extremely valued, allowing people to be more interested in textile designs derived from traditional cultural. Therefore, designs inspired by the spirit and sense of traditional patterns has been used to develop modern textile designs. Prior research on products, however, show that cultural motive was insufficient, therefore, in this research the purpose is to design textiles and to develop Korean neckties, an essential component of men's attire, by adapting Korean traditional patterns. In order to conduct the research, first, numerous parers on Korean traditional patterns have been studied to select fundamental data about the development of necktie textile designs. Second, Korean traditional patterns were applied while following the target and concept, and two pieces of necktie textile designs have been suggested. Patterns had been designed by hand drawing and CAD system, they have been suggested as a portfolio. As a result, this article suggests new necktie designs utilizing Korean traditional patterns and, attempts to develop particular pattern designs, which have power to accommodate globalization and to express the special qualities of Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.78-97
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to develop textile pattern designs by utilizing the prototype of traditional culture extracted from cultural resources in order to establish a specialty strategy for local cultural contents. To achieve this, the study selected the Hyojaemunjado as source of Jeju traditional culture. Jeju's Hyojaemunjado is characterized mainly by the creative and unique formativeness of Jeju's character paintings. Character paintings often contained images related to the characters featured inside characters, or composed stroke with symbolic iconography. The main subjects of Hyojaemunjado were stories that alluded to the Confucian virtues. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to remind people of the real meaning of Shin(truth) by developing textile pattern designs, which borrows the tessellation technique for design, and the dominant characteristic of geometric abstraction. This study used theoretical research and empirical analysis. First, the study did the theatrical research on Hyojaemunjado based on literature and precedent studies, and then analyzed the style of expression and formativeness on the Shin character paintings through real analysis of Jeju's Hyojaemunjado kept in Jeju National University Museum. Second, based on the analysis of the style(three-tier composition) and formativeness of Hyojaemunjado, it analyzed the formativeness of the iconography about Shin, i.e. character types(semi cursive style, square style) drawn according to the symbolic meaning, palace, unknown flower, pheasant, tile fish and constellation. Based on analysis of the iconography, it stylized the motives that became available on the Archimedean tiling of tessellation, and then developed the textile pattern designs by arranging the iconographic motives with Platonic tiling and Semi-tiling. The reason why this study borrowed tessellation was to create various visual effects using the size of angle, symmetry and change and joint with simple figure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.71-80
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• 1977

From the period of King Tae-Jong up to the third year of King In-Jo, the bestowal system for queen's court dresses from the Myeong Dynasty was one which was much lower than that of China. This system was applied to the queens' court dresses in the early Yi Dynasty. The pheasant's pattern on Jeockwan and Hapee probably indicates that Daesam was possibly regarded as Jeockyoe. In fact, according to Kaeredogam, Jeockyoe was for the first time made in the third year of King Kwanghae, which is the oldest record on Jeockyoe and Daesam. At the age of King Seon-Jo, a new type of queen's clothing was taken as an inevitable result of Japanese Invasion. Jeockyoe system was gradually made ceremonious until the period of King Yeong-Jo through Kakhonjeongye and Kukjosokoryeycobo; it became that of Queen Myeong-Jo's in the end. The traditional Jeockyoe system might have been interblended with Daesam. Yeodae was queen's usual dress and its pattern was the same as that of every women's dresses at Court.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.270-279
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• 2013

This study presents a T-shirt design process that utilizes modernized traditional patterns; in addition, it also includes various modernization techniques for Korean traditional patterns. T-shirts are a representative casual wear item worn in everyday life, especially among young people. The association of traditional elements and public goods such as T-shirts effects the diffusion of the Korean image into global society. Through the whole design process, target groups and design concepts were determined first: collegiate students as well as clean, natural, refined, simple and sporty image, respectively. Subsequently, Dokkaebi, lotus, Dangcho, dragon and Taegeuk patterns were selected as traditional pattern sources. Along with the technique of the division, transformation, and configuration of original patterns, the combining method of geometrical figures, stripe patterns, and check patterns with traditional patterns was helped create modernized traditional motives. Finally, T-shirt designs with a Korean image were developed with the harmonized deployment of modernized motives and color planning. The survey showed that designs had a clean, natural, refined, simple and sporty image that was preferred by collegiate students. This study is relevant in three aspects. First, the design process of modernization was very creative to combine traditional patterns and basic figures. Second, this study expanded the scope of traditional image design to casual wear to promote the Korean image to young people all over the world. Third, the whole design process, from planning to final product development, presented in this study is applicable to other design processes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.6
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• pp.891-909
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• 2019

This study uses a documentary survey, field survey and textile's characteristics to understand the history of the Punggi Viscose Rayon. Punggi's textile industry grew as people migrated from Pyeongan Province in the 1900s. Little is known regarding early production conditions, but documents show cottage industries in the 1940s made union cloth using silk and rayon. The Punggi weaving industry peaked after the Korean War and declined in the late 1950s. Punggi rayon at that time was mainly used for lingerie or lining, with miliary or polka dot patterns. The industry regained momentum when the power loom was introduced in the 1960s. Manufacturers also started weaving union cloth with synthetic fibers and rayon. In the 1990s, jacquard looms enabled the weaving of elaborately colored and patterned textiles for outer fabric that made Punggi rayon famous. Most Punggi rayon looms have developed in the order of manual handlooms, semiautomatic looms, Jokdapgi, to power looms. Looms equipped with dobbies or jacquard devices also changed from wooden dobby looms to wooden jacquard looms and then to iron jacquard looms. Punggi Rayon currently has its own trademark and tag, but lacks specific regulations on the blending of fibers.