• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.266-275
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• 2009

Variations of individual hip shapes are a major obstacle in pattern making for fitness. The drafting method is used for pattern making in today's apparel industry. Whilst catering to a limited number of information such as waist and hip sizes, this method does not cater to variations in hip shape. This paper describes the analysis of hip shapes using 3D body model and tries to make sure the relationship between hip shape and pattern by calculating hip angle and dart amount. We achieved results in analyzing various hip shapes by extracting hip angle. Moreover, various hip shapes can be divided into three types(A, B and C) by the hip angle value($K_{sh}-K_{wsh}$). When we use computerized draping method to make a personalized pattern for a tigth skirt, we easily create complex dart lines automatically. Therefore we achieve the result of individual dart amount such as distance between dart lines and dart areas. C type of hip shape had short dart length, long distance between dart lines and a large amount of dart area. On the other hand, A type had long dart length, short distance between dart lines and small amount of dart area. B type had long length and long distance between dart lines and large amount of dart area. In traditional pattern making, distance between dart lines is usually proportional to amount of dart area because of similarity in dart line shape. In our pattern, there is no proportional relationship between dart line distance and dart area. This means that variations in hip shapes result in a wide variety of dart line curvature resulting in a wide range of dart area. By ensuring an accurate relationship between hip shape and pattern, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.289-299
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• 2005

Through the formative analysis of the traditional jokakbo, we have composed surface composition that was made by a perfect square, triangle, a weather vane type, vertical type, cintamani type, and a mixed rectangular. And we have composed 18 kinds of motif stimulants that was made by vivid tone, pale tone, and so on, and finally analyzed sensibility image, preference rate of them. The cause of composition for the sensibility image of stimulant was composed by the cause of simplicity characteristics, interesting characteristics, rigid-flexibility characteristics, and modern characteristics. And from these things, the cause of simplicity characteristics and the cause of interesting characteristics were revealed as important dimensional factors of sensibility image. The sensibility image of motif was revealed as a simple image of perfect square, a feminine image of cintamani type, a modern image of mixed rectangular. And black-white colored mixed rectangular and chromatic colored cintamani type were also revealed as an interesting image. The preference rate of motif is related with the cause of interesting characteristics and simplicity characteristics, it also has been revealed to prefer the pale tone than others. And it also has been revealed that achromatic colored mixed rectangular, cintamani type of vivid tone, perfect square and rectangular of pale tone were mostly preferred.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.60-70
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• 1999

The purposes of this study were to investigate preference and images of Korean traditional motifs, and to identify the relationship between them. The subjects consisted of 369 male and 356 female undergraduate students. The experimental materials used in this study were 48 stimuli and a questionnaire composed of 7-point semantic differential scales of 26 adjectives. Twelve motifs selected from 3 groups of Korean motifs were used as pattern design stimuli. Twelve repeated patterns were constructed from them to be applied on a CAD-simulated dress. The data were analyzed by ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, and regression. The major findings were as follows : 1. Category, composition type, and application object had a significant effect on the preference. Interpretation type has no significant effects on the preference independently, but it had interaction effects when combined with composition type, and category. Especially the composition type had a greater effect than the other variables on the preference. Cloud motif and its abstract and decorative type were found to be more related to the preference than the other category and interpretation type. On the basis of the analysis results, image charts and preference charts were developed. By combining information from the image chart and preference chart, motifs and images preferred by consumers may be selected and developed into new valuable designs. 2. The preference was affected mainly by 'quality'image followed by 'simplicity', 'interest', and 'modernity'image. The preference on pattern design was affected by 'quality', 'simplicity', 'interest', and 'interest', 'simplicity', and 'modernity'image in the order. The relationship between the preference and sensibility images has been represented by equations.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.17-33
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to find the character of Cleopatra (69 B.C-30 B.C) by analyzing materials about Cleopatra, and to figure out symbolism and costume presented in movie . Costume of the main character, Cleopatra, compound the type of Egyptian traditional clothes, the change of it, and the trend in the 1960's. And, the symbolic meaning of it is also reinforced by adding ancient Egyptian myth to it. This kind of symbol is usually represented in Cleopatra clothing, especially in weaving pattern, embroidery, and ornament. And color of the clothes not only have their on predominance, but also can have their meaning fade away by mixed with each other, and also the shape has relation with the meaning of color. To sum up, the color and pattern of ancint Egyptian Cleopatra as alive formalize the power that come from coherence with the sun god in the center, which a used to maintain the power of the king. Costume in movie also contained color and pattern as a symbol of religion to symbolize the absolute power of king. These kinds of symbols are reemerging through historical recurrences and exotic interests.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.87-99
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the successful modernization strategy, and the difference between original Burberry and Burberry Prosum design. This will help in providing the fundamental information to Korean luxury fashion brands. Burberry, in particular, is rated as the most popular luxury brand in Korean fashion market. This brand has also rated 5th in sale worldwide and 1st in Korea in 2002, and was continuously been rated in 10th for the last 5 years. Related articles, fashion magazines, fashion web-site were used in this analysis, and the method was theoretical and case study. The results are divided into two categories of internal and external factors and two design patterns of check pattern and trench coat were observed. First of all, internal factor in Burberry is that they have scouted a new CEO and quickly changed their image with famous British models for the purpose of marketing strategies. They have also moved their main shop in London to Bond street, and opened shops in every country's capital cities. They were successful in achieving this by using celebrity marketing strategies with many famous celebrities. Secondly, external factor was that they have hired a designer named Christoper Bailey and this highlighted and enhanced the check pattern and trench coat. As a results, more generalized and diverse design items were presented and accessory line was enhanced, creating a much more younger image. This in turn attracted more younger customers. To sum up, original Burberry focused on classic designs, however Burberry Prosum focused on transforming traditional Burberry design into avant-garde and young. In other words, the reason for the success of this brand is highly dependent on its marketing strategies in which its uniqueness of schizophrenic cloche has appropriately represented and used in design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.53-61
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• 2005

With the acceptance of western culture, our traditional culture is in the crisis of disappearing. This is especially evident in the clothing and textile field. Therefore it seems essential to apply the traditional Korean aesthetics to our clothing. The purpose of this study is to reconstruct the types of design and analyse the characteristics of patterns expressed in traditional roof-tile. This study attempted to use the roof-tile patterns as motive for all tapestry and fashion design work to realize a creative expression of formative world through on-screen restructuring. The traditional roof-tile patterns were selected for this study because they must be the products created with our ordinary aesthetic values and techniques, and thus may represent our people's unique culture. After all, the expression for a work should be based not on simple representations of a given object but on restructuring of diverse unique forms according to worker's subjective senses. A piece of clothing with the expression of traditional and formative must combine traditional aesthetics of tradition and form. The application of traditional and formative value of Korean pattern in clothing made to be adaptable for wear in our everyday lives. Today there various attempts to combine traditional aesthetics with modem design. Also, the development of unique Korean design aesthetics within the clothing will allow for a distinct elegance that can be recognized by the world know about the Korean culture through the high standards of our clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.796-809
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• 2014

This study identifies formativeness and the Korean consciousness of the vernacular design in a Korean designers' collection in order to discover the internal characteristics of vernacular expression elements. The study is based on a theoretical review and an analysis of cases collected from Korean fashion designers' clothes. Research is limited to international collections of clothes presented by Korean fashion designers since 2,000. The process of Korean vernacular designs in fashion were analyzed for formativeness in form, color, pattern and detail. The research findings identified formativeness and Korean's consciousness of modern fashion designs that reflect vernacular designs as follows. First, they are round, flexible line and shape based on assimilated with nature, rhythmic curve to express life force and asymmetry based on an ecstatic world based on nature. Second, a white color explained the pure mind and racial peculiarities in regards to the five colors that expressed the thinking of traditional rituals such as prayers for comfort of life and ancestor worship. Third, there were patterns around shape of nature, praying, and Korea culture. Finally, there were skills of Korean traditional handcrafts such as embroideries, knit-works, gold foils, and quilts where clothes expressed the hardship of life and strong willpower to overcome. In conclusion, the clothing of Korean vernacular designs contains characteristics such as natural beauty, decorativeness, shamanism, and eclecticism.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.100-114
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• 2009

In Honam province, the cultural prototype are largely unknown to the people, also the research on this subject are scarce, the artistic excellence, somewhat under evaluated, both in our country and internationally. It is imperative that we develop the modern design using this prototype. thereby apply it to many areas of cultural products. We should extend the dimension not only to the local festival but also to the mass production resulting in the commercial gains. The Unjusa Buddha festival for promoting the public relation would be greatly benefited by using the concept of the temple, the local prototype, by which we expect to create a ingenious textile design pattern, coinciding with the main purpose of this study. The ancient material around Unjusa come to be the subject of our textile design by way of selecting the most remarkable ones of heritage among the materials of Unjusa. In the long run, the harmonious contrast of both traditional and modern image were sought in this study. Designed patterns were edited using Adobe Photoshop CS3, a multi-purpose graphic program and were simulated in the towel for visual presentation. The design is of two kinds, the one is of the free style using combinations of reclining Buddha, stone Buddha, stone pagoda, and geometric patterns freely not to be standardized. The other one is mixing of lotus pattern, reclining Buddha, and geometric patterns. These designs were applied delicately on the towel, necktie and handkerchief, and the various colors were suggested by the 6 color ways. The brilliance of our traditional cultural property should be noted by these designs and I hope that this study would be a help to develop our cultural prototype and make a product of using the outstanding heritage.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.9
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• pp.1418-1426
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• 2008

This study aims to develop the functional pants for the hospitalized bed-ridden patient. The procedure of this study consisted of three parts. First, the interview survey of nursing care givers was conducted to inquire into the conditions of bed-ridden patients' clothing. Second, the bed-ridden patients' pants design and sample making were accompanied. Then, the wearing tests and design development were completed. The results are as follows; The conditions of bed-ridden patients' clothing were the convenience of clothing change, the partial opening for diaper change and medical treatment and the ventilation for bedsore prevention. The design development of the bed ridden patients' pants was accomplished which had the side seams with two way opening zippers, the wraparound pattern of abdomen and the opening under crotch applied the advantage of korean traditional underwear sokkot. The samples' wearing tests were performed three times and those subjects were the hospitalized bed-ridden patients. Consequently, we suggested the appropriate hospitalized patients' pants for bed-ridden patient.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.489-500
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to determine the preference and purchasing intention on necktie pattern designs according to male consumers' fashion lift style. Written questionnaires were handed out to 300 male consumers of the 20-40 years old in Seoul and surroundings, who were accessed by a convenience sampling method. The questionnaires were to classify male consumer groups according to the fashion life style, to examine characteristics, needs and wants of each group. The stimuli of 8 kinds of necktie patterns in black & white, and the semantic differential scale were applied to evaluate the preference and purchasing intention on necktie pattern design. A total of 265 samples were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, crosstabs and $X^2$-test through SPSS package program. Six factors in their fashion life style were extracted as follows: those were 'fashion-oriented', 'traditional conservative', 'brand-flaunting', 'personality-oriented', 'practicality-oriented' and 'unconcerned' life style. With these life style sub-dimensions, male consumers were segmented into five groups: these groups were 'strong personal seekers', 'practical brand seekers', 'traditional personal seekers', 'active fashion seekers', 'unconcerned group'. Each of these groups of male consumers showed significant differences in the preference and purchasing Intension of necktie pattern designs according to their fashion life style.