• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.18 no.6 s.91
• /
• pp.37-42
• /
• 2006

Researches to preserve and restore the remaining fabrics as costume heritages have been carried out. In this study, in order to artificially restore an excavated silk fabrics, degummed silk fabrics and safflower dyed silk fabrics were prepared for an experiment. These fabrics were photo-degraded by the Xenon arc beam to have various strength retention(100%, 80%, 60%, 40%, 20%). The fine structure and physical properties of Xenon arc treated fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as tensile test, weight loss, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, yellowness, color, SEM etc. Tensile strength and the crystal diffraction intensity of silk fabrics decreased as Xenon arc hem treatment time increased. Weight loss increased slightly. Strength retention was decreased as the Xenon arc beam treatment time goes by. (Yellowness of the undyed silk fabrics and $L^*$ of the dyed silk fabrics increased. Whiteness of the undyed silk fabrics and $b^* of the dyed silk fabrics decreased.) SEM results of the silk fabrics treated Xenon arc beam show that surface was a little damaged.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.6
• /
• pp.127-139
• /
• 2013

This research is designed to provide basic data to study the life and culture of multicultural families in Korea by taking a look at the clothing behaviors and attitudes toward traditional dresses. To this end, quantitative research was conducted on Korea-Vietnam multicultural families and Korean families. The surveys of the Korean families were completed by 250 married women in Seoul, and those of Korea-Vietnam multicultural families by 104 married Vietnamese women living in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do and Incheon. The data were analyzed using frequency analysis, factor analysis, t-test, crosstabs and ${\chi}^2$-test. The findings are as follows: First, the comparison of clothing behaviors of the Korean families and the Korea-Vietnam multicultural families found that they had statistically significant differences in values towards clothes, clothes shopping orientation and clothes purchasing behaviors. The Korean women were more involved in clothes and fashion-oriented than their Vietnamese counterparts. However, the Vietnamese women in their 20s were likely to rely more on social trends than their own needs when purchasing clothes compared to their Korean counterparts. Korean families preferred to shop in department stores, while the multicultural families relied more on discount stores and outlets. Second, the comparison of the Korean families and the Korea-Vietnam families in attitudes toward their own traditional dresses and how often to wear them showed statistically meaningful differences. The Korean group had more negative attitudes toward Hanbok, the Korean traditional dresses than the Vietnamese group. The Vietnamese women showed more interest in information on Hanbok than their Korean counterparts. They also were wearing the Korean traditional dresses more often than the Korean families. In addition, the Vietnamese women showed a stronger tendency than the Korean women that they took pride in their country's traditional dresses and believed that they were beautiful.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.6 s.115
• /
• pp.62-70
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine a unique characteristic of the colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture in the aim of seeking Five-elements color found in Korean civilian's costume culture. The scope of Korean basic culture was 32 items specified as an import intangible cultural asset in the side of religion and art for the majority of the Korean people. Within these limits, the colors of the dress, accessories, instruments were extracted by comparing with the naked eye in NCS Color System. The result of this investigation was that Red was yellowish red and high chromatic and deep tone within 4area. Blue was purplish blue and high chromatic and deep tone within 4area, similarly Red. Yellow was pure yellow and high chromatic and bright tone within 3area. Red and Blue in Korean basic culture were more primary color and more high brightness than Korean traditional colors. Religion and art fer Korean civilian revealing the Korean basic culture reflected impending real-life of Korean civilian who intend to overcome their desperate reality at using Five-elements color in their costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.2 s.101
• /
• pp.17-31
• /
• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.4 s.103
• /
• pp.134-147
• /
• 2006

As modern society set in, lifestyle has been changing largely; leisure activity has been expanded and family activity became important. Changes in the lifestyle caused big changes even in fashion industry. Instead of suits, coordination using clothes easy to wear was extended and the need of family look was also raised. Despite the need and marketability of family look, however, family look style clothes depend on the manufacture by orders on the Internet and few brands have been developed unlike the activation of family restaurants or family fast-food restaurants. Thus, this study examined design of family look style T-shirts applying Korean image as one of measures to activate fashion brands of family look. This study purposed to find out self-conceit and identification of our culture by recreating family look as cultural tourism products applying Korean traditional patchwork wrapping-clothes and natural dying techniques and to globalize the products as high value-added ones containing differentiated Korea-style originality. In particular, as Interest in natural dying has been raised because of serious environmental problems and extension of wellbeing culture, products applying natural dying have been developed actively. At this point of time, the development of family look style T-shirts applying natural dying will contribute largely to planning globalization of our brands by developing products with more polished and globalized design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.32 no.4
• /
• pp.481-501
• /
• 2024

This study aims to analyze the traditional embroidery in Korea, China and Japan based on Pierre Bourdieu's cultural theory, habitus and field. We conducted literature and case studies examining the late Joseon Dynasty, Qing Dynasty, and Edo Period, respectively. Based on previous studies, we reviewed three fields: social systems, goods and economy, and environmental and regional. We also explored art, culture, and national tastes as habitus. We then examined each country's embroidery practices through these lenses, and the practice of habitus is as follows. We determined that traditional Korean court embroidery in the late Joseon Dynasty was characterized as controlled elegance, while private embroidery reflected earnest simplicity. During the Qing Dynasty, traditional Chinese court embroidery depicted sumptuous power, while private embroidery portrayed harmonious splendor. Finally, traditional Japanese embroidery in the Edo period reflected symbolic natural beauty and exaggerated comic beauty. As a result, Korea, China, and Japan have had a relatively close geographical location and a similar climate environment zone, and since ancient times, many cultures have been exchanged with each other. However, it seems that the characteristics of traditional embroidery have developed slightly differently due to the practice of habitus, which was caused by of the conspiracy of field and habitus of the three countries. The significance of this study is expected to explain the relationship between the birth and extinction of costumes and embroidery by establishing a systematic and objective framework for aesthetics research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.6
• /
• pp.65-87
• /
• 1982

1. Purpose: The purpose is to apply and adapt ancient textile pattern to practical life, and to contribute to the promotion of the creative development of modernization and Koreanization of textile pattern by the survey of the extent of taste for the textile pattern existent in Korean costume among costumes. 2. Hypothesis: Textile pattern is in most classical one expressed in fact, but nowadays abstract or geometric one is more exist. Consumers are in most part in forties, and so the taste cannot be ignored. Therefore aesthetic consciousness found Korean costume is more important rather than excessively bold or mordern one. 3. Method and Process: (1) This research is analysed 386 one through college student and parents of a primary or high school. (2) Taste of the pattern is comparisoned and analyzed as age. education, pocket money of the student or an income of a month in home through computer. And the analysis of the statistics research is operation through the Chi-Square Goodness of-Fit-Test. 4. Conclusion: (1) The Korean costume put on mostly party or formal dress, therefore it should be researched as an outdoor dress with traditional costume. (2) The most one is concerned in textile pattern, it's taste is different from color, constitution. Textile industry is developed not only weave pattern, gold-coverning pattern but embroidry pattern, dye pattern, therefore the various side of pattern design should be researched. (3) In Side of form, plant pattern is not only most various but highest in popularity. According to approach nowadays, all of the pattern becomes composition or geometric one with abstract tendency and so from these day pattern is necessary combinationed, researched with our people emotion. (4) The color of textile pattern is choiced individual taste. Through investige, research in various side of the modern taste and our costume, we take growing interest in the color, composition of textile, and should dressed with beauty and grace. (5) In side of size, textile pattern is choiced to individual face and body shape through research on form, color, size of these pattern, we should endeavor to dress well. (6) In side of application, most people is concerned in not only interior ornament but the costume is high. Costume research by some people of the outside and symbol with interior through the pattern analysis is not only very important but also is due to people culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.6
• /
• pp.634-638
• /
• 2006

The significance of this study is the demonstration of a new method of preservation procedure for national-treasure-class cultural-assets by examining the characteristics of the Jeogori relic, presumed to be that of King SeJo, and validating the preservation process. This Jergori as well as the wooden Munsu-donja Buddha statue from which they were found are designated as national treasure. The Jeogori relic is made of light silk and dimensions mark 77 cm in length, 67 cm in width, and 94 cm in sleeve length. It is a typical Jeogori worn in the Chosun Dynasty. Preservation procedure was in the following order: Removing dust and pollutants by vacuum, washing, removing creases, reinforcing the clothes, settling at paulownia backboard, and packing. Storage and exhibition of remains was executed with as minimal folding as possible, and microbiological damage prevention was performed by dyeing antibacterial treatment with eugenol onto supporting cloth. The relic, conservatively treated in accordance with the above procedure, is currently kept at the storage facility of the citadel Museum in the Woljeong Temple. It is displayed annually to the general public for approximately two weeks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.8
• /
• pp.1378-1385
• /
• 2001

Textile The purpose of this research is to develop the design for activation of women s hanbok focused on functionality and convenience as well as on keeping the traditional beauty, and then to produce them. As a result of these explorations, I have reached conclusions as follows. first, the transformation of jackets and skirts are mainly limited to partial change in elements of the dress design-width and length of a jacket string and the upper strip on the outside of a jacket, change in width, and granting of symbolic meaning. Second, aesthetic features and formative beauty of traditional hanbok that the harmonization of mainstream colors and highlighting colors and curved silhouettes evoke were mental by products created as our people wished to become friendly to and to harmonize with nature. Third, grounded upon study of lines form and survey on brands, I have developed designs that maintain hanbok’superiority and at the same time incorporate functionality and convenience to fit modern life. I believe that the outcome of these of these explorations will contribute greatly to carrying the traditional beauty of Korean dresses to the maximun, and to developing and popularizing functional and practical living-fitted Korean dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.11
• /
• pp.1750-1759
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to comparatively analyze the color characteristics of the Japanese ethnic look advanced by Japanese and western designers in comparison with the actual traditional colors of Japan. The data determining the traditional colors of Japan was collected through a critical apparatus examination of 250 colors and the color data of what determines Japanese ethnic look was collected through an analysis of the clothing appearing in four fashion collections -Paris, Milan, London, and New York- from the 2004 S/S collections to the 2008 F/W collections. For the analysis of these colors, Photoshop was used with an RGB value measuring under 300dpi resolutions. The RGB values were then converted to H V/C values through Munsell Conversion 8.0.3, and they were analyzed using Munsell's 40 Hue and PCCS. The results of this study are as follows: Japanese designers are expressing their own aesthetic theory by designing fashions in traditionally Japanese hues. However, neutral colors and low-chroma tones appear more often than traditional colors. This study illustrates how these designers use color to reflect their inside ideals being oversensitive traditonal ideals. In contrast, western designers reflect more contemporary trends through the use of hues that more clearly reveal their preconception of the colors of the Orient rather than actual traditional Japanese colors. Moreover, these foreign designers tend to approach fashion design by the means of shape rather than color. Japanese designers systematically analyze and apply their own culture to contemporary fashion design. Their efforts serve as a good reference model for research on traditional culture and fashion design.