• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.18-31
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• 2016

In response to increasing preference for tattoos during the 2000s, the demand for Japanesestyle tattoo fashion increased. Ukiyoe, the prototype of Japanese tattoo popular in the Edo period has been preserved traditional expression techniques to the present, It is characterized by the following: first, the tattoos share literary lyricism through plays borrowed from the classics. second, it displays harmony and equivocal expression of heterogeneous elements samurai and kabuki mono. third, humorous images are expressed in picture-in-picture form. And fourth, presence of fixed characters based on the publication culture. Tattoo fashion is characterized by the following: First, eclectic fashion based on pastiche; second, characters emphasizing fun and comicality; third, the adoption of tattoo models for establishing brand images; and fourth, Cultural association for the new composition of culture consumption. Pastiche, harmony of heterogeneous elements, fun and comicality, and fixed characters were found to be common between tattoo ukiyoe and tattoo fashion. That is, it attempted to meet the sensitive consumers' needs to keep up with the trends by adopting tattoo incorporated into the subculture of neo pop. This shows clearly the characteristics of fashion, which creates new trends through interacting with the contemporary culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.98-115
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• 2017

This study categorizes the formative aspects of dress and their implications according to the extent of revealing or concealing corporeality based on body perceptions. By considering the notion of dress as bodily practice to be a theoretical and methodological framework, this study combines a literature survey and case analysis to analyze and classify the forms of women's dress since the 1920s when contemporary fashion took hold. As examined in this study, the typology of dress was categorized as body-consciousness, deformation, transformation, and formlessness. Body-consciousness that is achieved through tailoring, bias cutting, and stretchy fabric displays corporeality focusing on the structure and function of the body as an internalized corset. Deformations in dress are categorized into two different subcategories. One is the expansion or reduction of bodily features based on the vertical or horizontal grids of the body, which visualizes the anachronistic restraint of the body through an innerwear as outerwear strategy. The other is exaggerations of the bodily features irrelevant to the grid, which break from the limitations and constraints of the body as well as traditional notions of the body. Transformations of the body refer to as follows. First, the deconstruction and restructuring of the body that deconstruct the stereotypes in garment construction. Second, the abstraction of the body that emphasizes the geometrical and architectural shapes. Third, transformable designs which pursue the expansion and multiplicity of function. Formlessness in dress denies the perception of three-dimensionality of the body through the planarization of the body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.57-75
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to infer the shape and change as auspicious symbolic meaning and figures of a peony pattern. For this study. I analyzed the example of a peony pattern, which is traditional Chinese pattern appeared on a ceramic and textile. The results of this study are as following. First, a peony has particular title, such as 'the king of flowers' and 'the most beautiful woman in country and the smell in heaven' originated in a verse of a poet at Dang's Dynasty. It is reputed to be the best of all flowers, representing beauty, and a beauty. Second, the basic meaning of a peony pattern used as auspicious pattern is prosperity and it has various meanings of it's similar kind through several auspicious objects and combination. Also, it was used for the purpose of adequating the desire of man's blessing mentality. Third, four kinds of characteristics of a peony pattern are as following. 1) A peony pattern has similar shape with 'Bosanghwamoon', which was used as a pattern at formerly period of peony flowers. It was used as realistic shape gave vividness to the characteristic of peony on the shape of 'Bosanghwamoon'. 2) 8-petaled, unique leaves and veins were described in detail by vivid sketching shape of real peony flower. 3) Laying stress on the characteristics of peony flower, which is large and magnificent, several folds petals were described abundantly by exaggerated shape or a shape of big honeycomb. And unique leaves were described realistically on these. 4) It was also expressed peculiar characteristic of peony flower composed of several pieces by weakened design shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.153-167
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to supply the opportunity of being used as a material which can predict future fashion. This study had been divided the symbolic meaning into three parts. The first part was the symbolic expressions in the materials of modern fashion, and the second part was symbolic meaning which was expressed in the accessories, and the last part was the symbolic meaning which was expressed in the physical ornament. The results could be summarized as follows. First, among the forms of heraldry were expressed in modern Fashion, were such as animals like a lion and eagle, which evoked the powerful and lively mood. A vegetable heraldry was expressed on a pattern of textile fabric to pursue the beauty of dress, represented female and classical beauty. A inanimate object heraldry was included all natural material that didn't have all lives the world, represented the mystery and intensity of nature as using the design that sets off the idea through color and figure. Second, in the case of being the forms of heraldry used as a mark or logo in modern fashion, it was visualized the fashion of traditional sense, marine look and military look. This mark or logo had important characteristics of symbolic in that the product had a special meaning and function by trade mark. Third, tattos were used to heighten the people's union in the various subordinate cultures. By ornamenting their bodies, they expressed their special identity and consciousness. Tattos represented a unique menas, which effected a mood of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.87-100
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• 2009

This study examines black images as 'the other' in history and aims to analyze images of black female fashion models which have been changed in modern society, particularly in $21^{st}$ century post-modern world. Black images, established historically as illustrated on the paintings in $19^{th}$ century, were disseminated in $20^{th}$ century throughout the world especially by way of TV and movies as several typical images such as 'Coon' the clown as the object of entertainment, 'Buck' wild and resistant black rascal, and 'Mammy' obedient and fat black woman servant. The result of image analysis of black female fashion models, can be summarized as following five images. The first is the image of 'powerful'. Black female models frequently represent healthy image which reflects black people's excellence in sports and also the traditional Image of black skin color as strength. The second is the image of 'sexy'. They are adored as having perfect ideal body shape. They show off their sex appeal with their body. The third image is 'multicultural'. Black models represent cultures besides the western. The fourth is the image of 'fantastic'. In contrast to the real, resonable things, black female models represent wild, fancy, ghost things. The fifth is the image of 'racial discrimination' By arranging them in contrast to whites, a metaphoric image of racial discrimination can be displayed. The result shows that tome of racial images still remain on the other way.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.39-56
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• 2012

For a long time, architecture has functioned as something that is inevitable for humans, a necessity that provides housing settings and living spaces for human lives. In the creation of art, architecture is a genre that has a field of infinite possibilities of endless inspirations of the present and the future with its unimaginable various styles and functions. This study aims at analyzing the figurative formation and characteristic expression style of nude architecture with modern fashion design, reinterpreting it by a modern edge, and expressing it into an originative costume work. Furthermore, the purpose of this study is to provide a new motive for the potential of continuous development of modern fashion in the future through an endless study on artistic architecture that includes nude architecture and an originative expression style that will prepare a momentum that indicates the direction into a new line of fashion.

• Transactions of the Korean Society for Noise and Vibration Engineering
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.103-114
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• 2012

Nowadays membrane material is widely used for large indoor spaces and long spaces such as traditional market. Thermal insulation and sound field control performance is considered as a main properties for design of such buildings. In this paper sound absorption and thermal insulation properties of membrane material was investigated. Firstly, normal incidence sound absorption coefficient of 10 kinds of glass wool textiles showed that sound absorption coefficient was increased in proportion of thickness and surface density of textile. Sound absorption coefficient of 4 kinds of sound absorptive inner membrane with outer membrane was tested in the reverberation chamber. Sound absorption coefficient of mid frequency range was about 0.4 ~ 0.6. Also, sound absorption coefficient was changed by the air space behind the membrane material. Secondly, sound field control performance was investigated using mock-up space. By the installation of sound absorption membrane material, reverberation time was decreased and speech intelligibility was increased. Finally, thermal resistance and room temperature in two kinds of mock-up rooms were tested, simultaneously. Results of thermal properties showed thermal insulation properties ware increased by adding inner membrane material underneath the outer membrane.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.7
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• pp.882-891
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to improve dye effect and method in order to facilitate the use of persimmon juice dyeing. Silk fabrics were pad-dyed to 100% pick-up using padding machine after dipping in persimmon juice extracted from unripe persimmons indigenous to Jeju. The color of dyed silk fabrics by padding method was more even and repeatable than that by traditional hand method. Persimmon juice concentrations were 4 types 10, 25, 50 and 100%. The silk fabrics were pad-dyed to 100% pick-up and were repeatedly dyed two times and three times with 100% concentration. The higher the concentration, the more color deepened. UV Irradiation instead of sunlight was applied to color developing. Irradiation times were shortened to 1-8hrs. Color values which reguired 30-50 hrs. in sunlight irradiation. were obtained in 3-5 hrs. with UV irradiation. Tensile strengths of silk fabrics in UV irradiation decreased but not decreased in sunlight irradiation. Elongations of silk fabrics in sunlight irradiation increased but decreased in W irradiation. Drape stiffness increased up to three times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1210-1221
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• 2006

The strength of the PB(Private Brand) is that it can eliminate intermediary in the distribution channel and thoroughly control the quality under its own name. This study has developed traditional studies on private brand proneness in approaching data processing and empirical point of view of a consumer's attitude buildup process on PB through 'recognition-attitude-action(behavioral attitude)'. The subjects of this study are consumers in their $20s{\sim}40s$ who are main customer groups of PBs. A screening process has taken place to select consumers with purchasing experiences of retailor PBs. The data is analyzed by 'Structural Equation Modeling' of Amos 5.0 to verify consumer attitude formation model on private apparel brand. The results generated from this study are as follows: First, the proposed consumer attitude model on private apparel brand consists of store evaluation, experiential product evaluation, cognitive product evaluation, hedonic attitude, utilitarian attitude and purchase intention. Second, not only positively influence on utilitarian attitude but hedonic attitude can arouse positive emotional reaction of a consumer. Third, the store evaluation is ahead of the product evaluation because PB is more related to the image of a store. The influence of the store on PB is relatively stronger when compared with NB.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.212-223
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• 2017

This research investigated the screen printing method for natural indigo dye on cotton fabric. We examined four types of thickening agents (arabic gum, guar gum, indalca, and CMC) based on their ability to retard the oxidation of natural indigo print paste while the paste remained on the screen frame. The results indicated that the retardation of arabic gum towards oxidation was the greatest among the four types of thickening agents. The highest K/S value of the printed cotton was observed with a dye concentration of 50g/L fermented indigo powder. The best printing results were obtained when the duration of dye efficiency was tested for the 10 minutes of the dye paste remaining on the screen with a thickening agent concentration of 26.56% that represented 530 cps viscosity. The test of colorfastness to washing and rubbing of the printed cotton resulted in grade 5, and the colorfastness to sunlight resulted in grade 4. Chinese traditional Naminwhapo printing was reproduced on cotton fabric using the natural indigo printing method derived from this study.