• 복식
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• 제34권
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• pp.135-150
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to inves-tigate the economic performance of the textile industry for the Korean traditional clothes. The content of this paper had two pars; The first part was for the macroeconomic aspects such as location production employments and the produc-tion facilities of the textile industries. The second part was for the microeconomic aspects such as business type branding method fabric type R&D efforts sourc-ing and the distributional channel The major results were as follows: 1.) Most textile firms for the korean traditional clothes were located in Gongju for man-made fibers and in Jinju for silk fabrics. 2) The size of the textile industry in terms of the number of business produc-tion amount the number of employee de-creased during 1994 and 1995 due to the decreasing demand. 3) Over the half of the textile firms produced raw fabric products while only 20% of them were involved in additional dyeing and /or printing finish which re-sulted in low value added production 4) The R&D effort of the textile indus-try for the Korean traditional clothes was very low due to the market uncertainty lack of technological knowledge and most of all small size of the firms 5) Most raw materials for the textile in -dustry were imported with high(25%) tariff rates resulting in price increase and thus low competitiveness in the market. 6) The textile producers sole about the 70% of their products to the wholesalers while selling the rest to the retailers di-rectly. This showed the dual structure of the distribution channel in the textile products. These results suggested some implica-tions for the firms the policy makers and the researchers. The firms should develop new and improved products to increase and create consumer demand by intensive R&D efforts. The government policy ma-kers should give financial supports the firms with R&D investment and legal help such as lowing tariff rate for the raw ma-terials. The researchers from the academy could help the textile industry with the advanced technological knowledge and up-date information for the consumer fashion demand.

• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.93-104
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to clarify the adap-tation of traditional beauty of dress in Baek Eui for the establishment of tradition of dress culture. Especially, the color of the traditional dress rep-resent a symbol which is connedted with the na-tional character and the evvironment. But it is hard to examine closely because color preference are transformend with the times. This study is framed within the limits of the next themes : the origin, history and meaning of the Baek Eui ; the philosophical theory of cosmic Five Elements and the Prohibition of Baek Eui ; the beauty of Baek Eui. As the national character is indicative of the conservativeness and the purity, Koreans have kept up wearing Baek Eui spite of the occasional prohibition. Since the color of the dress represen-tatived the signs of the social class and the power, over the eighty persent of the common people put on the Beak Eui : ramie and flax fabrics that has it's own color in Chosun-Dynasty. I think that the use of natural color harmony is prominent and the beauty of Baek Eui is the naturality and the non-artificiality. The meaning of the symbol on the Korean Beak Eui is the divinity, the holiness, the purity, the cleanliness, the modesty, the frugality, the integ-rity, the constancy, the elegance, the simplicity.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.79-94
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• 2013

본 연구에서는 전통 의생활문화에 대한 인식을 고취시키고자 우리나라의 대표적 전통 천연염색 중 하나인 감즙염색을 이용한 학습자료를 제작하고 전통 의생활문화 체험이 가능한 교수-학습과정안을 개발하였다. 연구방법에 있어서 교육적 효과를 조사하기 위해서는 설문지를 작성하였고, 수업 실시 전과 후의 교육적 효과를 검증하기 위해서는 t-test, Kruscal-Wallis 검정 및 상관분석을 행하였다. 이를 고등학교 기술 가정과에 '감즙염색 직물을 이용한 생활소품 만들기' 주제로 수업에 적용하여 전통 이미지에 대한 인식의 변화와 학습에 대한 흥미도 및 태도 변화를 검토한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 감즙염색에 관해 연구해온 축적물로 독창적인 학습자료를 개발하여 감즙염색과 전통 의생활문화를 이해하기 위한 협동학습을 실시한 결과, 현대 감각을 살린 아이디어 소품이 창출되었다. 둘째, '청소년의 전통 의생활문화와 교육에 대한 인식'에 있어, 수업 전과 후의 차이를 나타내어 수업 후에 인식의 향상을 보였다. 나아가 조사대상을 상/중/하위 그룹으로 분류하여 분석한 결과, 긍정적인 변화에 있어서도 그룹 간 차이를 보였는데, 사전 점수가 가장 낮았던 하위 그룹에서 가장 높은 향상을 나타내었다. 셋째, '감즙염색 직물을 이용한 생활소품 만들기' 수업의 효과를 분석한 결과, 모든 문항에서 '보통' 이상으로 나타나, 학생들은 감즙염색 직물로 생활소품 만들기 체험을 통하여 전통 의생활문화에 대한 관심과 흥미도가 높아졌고 태도가 긍정적으로 변화하였음이 확인되었다. 넷째, 전통 의생활문화 인식과 그 교육에 대한 인식 간에는 문화에 대한 인식이 높은 학습자일수록 그 교육에 대한 인식도 높아 정적인 상관이 높은 것으로 나타났다. 이상과 같이 개발된 학습자료와 교수-학습과정안을 통한 전통 의생활문화 수업은 전통적인 천연염색과 의생활문화에 대한 가치와 의미를 이해하는 인식에서 향상된 변화를 가져왔고, 아이디어를 창출하는 교육적 효과를 가져왔다. 전통 의생활 문화 교육은 지속적이고 다면적인 심화된 연구와 현장교육의 상호작용이 이루어질 때 교육적 시너지효과가 더 발현될 것이다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.87-99
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest a bag design focusing on the symbol of Bo patterns by developing a pattern-based textile which forms a Korean design with a modern sense of beauty as well as following the conventions of traditional cultures, a design which is based on the previous study on formative characteristics of Bo patterns. That is, seven pieces of motifs are considered as proper patterns that have a symbol suitable for the materials of bags, showing their individual beauty well. This includes Horomum (longevity and prosperity of desendants), Banjangmum (eternity and samsara), Jeonbomum (treasure and luck), Seobomum (innate good fortune), Bangseungmum (it means that things don't break in harmony with one another), Bomum (embroidered patches for royal family representing justice), and Seogakmum (blessed life). With these seven motifs, we developed textile patterns and printed them through DTP. Then, we created a fashion bag design with a high quality using durable canvas fabrics. Therefore, a fashion bag with the Bo patterns symbol has a propitious symbol designed with a propitious shape, not to mention its formative beauty. It is expected to have value as a fashion art item by being redesigned for benevolent patterns with a modern image.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권11호
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• pp.1627-1637
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• 2002

The objective of this study is to analyze the images of basic bodice apparel displayed on the PC monitor connected to digital camera, and to suggest a more efficient alternative method that enables the expert judge to evaluate the subject both traditional method and displayed images on the computer. Appearance evaluation has traditionally been assessed using subjective method dependent upon expertjudges' senses with the naked eye after direct observation of a living model. This research faces the new challenge focusing on the sensory evaluation of appearance for basic apparel patterns, which can overcome the space and time limitations of the traditional feet methods. A total fifteen basic bodice garment (3 types of $pattern\;{\times}\;5$ subject) were constructed with same fabrics. The appearance evaluation items consist of lg questions of upper torso. The image takes font, back and side view of the dressed subject with three different situations. Data was analyzed using percentiles, standard deviation T-test and ANOVA. Taken together, the present result of appearance evaluation through digital camera image shows that there is a significant difference ($p{\leq}.001$) in the response to the placement of the neckline, the waist & shoulder dart, the general ease of the bust & waist area, the side seam, the perpendicular of the waist hem and general acceptability between the above three different situations; the image in the condition of greenish yellow background with front light showed the highest score through all questions. These results depend on the kind of background colors with the light.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.10-20
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional fresh juice extract dyeing. Three kinds of leaf powder colorants were prepared by freeze drying method with or without deep freezing as pre-treatment: one powder colorant from fresh leaf juice with deep freezing; two kinds of powder colorant from fresh leaves with and without deep freezing. Their dyeing properties and storage stabilities were studied and compared with the traditional fresh juice extract dyeing. The presence of indigo in the powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. They showed absorption peak at 602nm which was same with indigo absorption peak. Dyeing was done at low temperature around 6$^{\circ}C$. All three powder colorants produced B colors on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants from leaves gave higher color strength than the powder from leaf juice. The powder colorant prepared from leaves with deep freezing was the most stable for long term storage as its color and color strength were not changed after 360 days. So, this was used for further dyeing to study the effects of concentration and repeat dyeing on color strength and colorfastness. Fastnesses to dry cleaning and rubbing were fairly good above 4 rating. Further study is needed to improve light fastness. It was concluded that the leaf powder colorant with deep freezing could be used as a substitute for traditional juice extract dyeing at all seasons.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.55-79
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• 2000

This study is the design research for the practical use of Casual Hanbok. The conclusion of basic research for Casual Hanbok design reads as follows. Today's college women are fairly positive to the practical use of Casual Hanbok. Especially, they are strongly interested in the new design and have the active intention to wear it on actually. The concrete design of every parts of Casual Hanbok which is wanted by college women is as follows. Firstly, college women like well matched two-piece dress style in colors. And they want to decide the coloration independently than to follow the traditional coloration passively. Secondly, according to the design of jacket, sometimes they like the presence of a collar, a collar strip, a gore etc. and at other times they like absence of them. Thirdly, the side line of jacket they like and the seam line of sleeve they like is smoothly curved one and the adjusting means they like is a fancy button. Fourthly, the length of jacket they like reaches to their waist and the width of an armhole they like must be convenient for moving of arm. Fifthly, one out of two college women likes mixed spinning fabrics as material for jacket, skirt, pants. In the other hand, one out of five college women likes cotton. Sixthly, the skirt style they like is A ­line one having from two to four gathers on the waist and the length of skirt they like reaches to their ankle or calf of the leg. Seventhly, the pants style they like is the western style but the hem line of pants is the korean traditional pants style.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.137-151
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• 2003

Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in 1990s were analyzed. The types and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of domestic retrospective fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of domestic retro fashion were historicism, ethnic, ecology. Retro fashion was expressed through applying and reappearing silhouette, detail. fabric and image of the costumes of the past. 2. Renaissance. Baroque, Rococo styles and the costumes and styles of 1960s and 1970s were mainly applied in domestic fashion. 3. Orientalism was emphasized and Korean traditional styles and Chinese costumes were expressed mainly in domestic fashion. Fashion trends recurrent and intimate to the nature were expressed in patterns, fabrics, dyeing and silhouettes of nature. 4. The formative feature characteristics of domestic retro fashion were recurrence, purity. tradition and decoration. As retro fashion applies costumes of the past newly, it supplies unlimited possibilities to the present fashion which seeks versatility.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.353-367
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• 2019

These days, costumes of Korean creative dancing performances have been changed to be modernized and to be out of traditional regulation, as the representation of the Korean styles were replaced by other props and art devices. In this article, we have applied the emotions expressed in Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos (Korean traditional poems), to Korean creative dancing costumes in modern style. chose three typical sijos from her six pieces, titled "Green mountain is like what I've meant", "To Byeokgyesoo in Cheongsan-ri" and "Dongjibam ginaginbam". In brief, Jin-Yi Hwang expressed her "everlasting love and emptiness", "temptative conciliation" and "eager waiting" these three sijos, respectively. The character of Jin-Yi Hwang was shown in many TV soap operas and films, and the costumes were either much modernized, and not accurately based on the sijos she had written. Thus, we designed, made flat sketched, and fabricated three Korean creative dancing costumes from the three sijos, listed. We tried to highlight the aesthetic impression and the activeness of the dancing costumes, using both traditional and modern Korean fabrics. Since Korean dance costumes had not yet been inspired from Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos, we discussed the importance of the fabric items, as well as the visual, auditory, and tactile characteristics of the costumes and dancers to emphasize Jin-Yi Hwang's expressed emotions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권3_4호
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• pp.462-469
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• 2005

This study was inquiry into wearing condition and satisfaction of Saenghwal Hanbok uniform for Korean restaurant's employees. For this Purpose to be fulfilled survey was carried out to the managers and employees who are working in Korean traditional restaurants located in Seoul, and the reality of wearing Saenghwal Hanbok uniforms and the employees's satisfaction were considered. It taken into consideration when designing Hanbok uniforms for Korean traditional restaurants. The analysis was executed involving Simple Analysis, Correlation Analysis, Independent Samples T-test, Paired Comparison, ANOVA, and Duncun Test using SPSS. The report shows that buyers get two pieces style of skirt ($74\%$) and they are buying from Hanbok shops ($58\%$), or from uniform shops ($21\%$). It is almost impossible to see that employees' opinion is reflected in the uniform design since the decisions are made by either Senior manager or General Manager. Based on the result of this survey, followings should be taken into consideration when designing Hanbok uniforms for Korean traditional restaurants. Firstly, a design should reflect a sphere and a radiuses of action throughout a grasp of the type of restaurant, such as the type of sitting and whether there are stairs or not, and the type of service in charge, and so on. Secondly, considerations on the fabrics in terms of sweat absorption, tactility, weight and so on should be prioritized emphasizing a functional aspect. Thirdly, a sleeve should be narrower and shorter, and the skirt should be less wide and not crease easily. Lastly, a Geogori should be knot-button on with care in order not to be opened and a skirt should be zipped up.