• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.2 s.38
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• pp.77-87
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• 1991

The purpose of this study were to investigate the bed climate and the physiological responses in sleep on the traditional Korean floor heating system called Ondol. Ondol has been the most widely used heating system in Korea, yet there has been a no systematic studies examined its environmental effects on human body. Experimental room was constructed to match the typical thermal environment of Ondol. (floor surface temperature; $32\~33^{\circ}C$, air temperature; $22.5{\pm}1.0^{\circ}C$, relative humidity; $64.0{\pm}4.0\%$RH, air velocity; 0.25 m/sec.) Three different combinations of bedclothes were chosen for the experiment based on the study results showing that they were the most widely used types in Korea. Type 1 was the combination of a cotton-padded mattress with a cotton-padded Korean style blanket. Type 2 was a cotton-padded mattress with a cotton-guilted Korean style blanket. Type 3 was a cotton-padded matless with a polyacryl blanket. Thermal resistance of each of these combina-tions in the bedclothes was measured using thermal manikin. Two adult female was chosen for the seven hour sleeping experiment which was known to be the average sleeping hours of Korean adult female. The bed climate was measured with the temperature under the mattress, the surface temper-ature of the mattress, and the air temperature and the relative humidity of the space between the mattress and blanket. The skin temperature, rectal temperature of the subjects and the bed climate were measured eight times, one hour before the experiment and every hour during the experiment. The weight loss and the subjective sensation were measured for the each subjects before and after the experiment. The procedure was repeated twice with two subjects and three types of bedclothes, yielding twelve combinations of results. The results were as follows; 1. With the surface temperature of $32\~33^{\circ}C$ of Ondol, air temperature was $22.5{\pm}1.0^{\circ}C$ with $64.0{\pm}4.0\%$ RH. The bed climates were $39.2{\pm}40.8^{\circ}C$ under the mattress, $35.3\~36.2^{\circ}C$ on the mattress, and $26.9\~32.0^{\circ}C$ with $56.0\~71.3\%$ RH between the mattress and the blanket. 2. Mean skim temperature during sleep was 34.2"C with local skin temperature of $34.0\~35.5^{\circ}C$. The skin temperatures of abdomen, thigh, foot were higher than the other parts of the body. 3. The skin temperature of chest, thigh, leg and back varied significantly according to the combinations of bedclothes. With the cotton-padded blanket, the skin temperature was the highest, while with the cotton-guilted blanket showed lowest. 4. Examining the relationship between the mean skin temperature and the local skin temper-ature, the chest temperature showed the highest correlation with the former. Therefore, the chest temperature can be recommended to represent the skin temperature in measuring the bed climate. 5. The subjective bed climates were $39.0\~40.4^{\circ}C$ under the mattress, $35.2\~35.9^{\circ}C$ on the mattress, $29.8\~31.6^{\circ}C$ with $56.8\~68.4\%$ RH between the mattress and blanket. In sum, from this experiment we not only obtained the reliable value of bed climates on Ondol, but also showed that the bed climates and the physiological responses were affected differently according to the materials of bed clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.8 s.210
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

Ash solutions derived from vegetation have been known for their good mordanting action. They are used as finishing agents because they are able to promote dye uptake. It is expected that the types of ash solutions may have been different worker by worker since the workers have employed easy-to-get plants, when we reviewed old literature. However, the ash solutions are being used without clear distinctions between their characteristics. In this study, camellia ash solution and rice straw ash solution were prepared according to traditional methods. Using these solutions as mordanting agents, natural dyeing experiments with Caesdpinia Sappan were peformed. Following the dyeing procedure, the effect of the type of ash solution on the color of the dyed fabric was evaluated. The results showed that the ash solution mordanting effect us not dependent upon the components of the ash solution. It was also demonstrated that the mordanting effect was not based on the action of the metallic ions in the ash solution. The pH values of the ash solutions were adjusted in order to investigate the effect of changes in ash solution alkalinity on the dyeing process. The pH values ranged from neutral or weak acidity to the alkaline range in order to evaluate the characteristics of the mordanting tv the ash solutions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.93-103
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• 1999

This study is intended to propose the new design course on Contemporary folk Hanbok by researching their preference to Contemporary folk Hanbok. To do so, the definition of styles, preference in details and fitness for the occasion to wear Contemporary folk Hanbok were evaluated and analyzed. The collected materials were investigated in quality and content. As for the data, five Contemporary folk Hanbok brands, in the city were selected and twenty styles from catalog were extracted. The subjected of study were 219 university students living in Seoul and Kwang-ju, Mok-po. they answered the questionnaires, the results of study were following: 1) In style of Contemporary folk Hanbok, there were positive support on longer Jeogori than traditional one and a seamless one-piece skirt at the length of ankle. But they had the negative thought of various spapes shapes related to the styles of Contemporary folk Hanbok. 2) In a view point of coloring on women's Contemporary folk Hanbok, the student supported the saturation more than special preference to similarity or contrast harmony. Students liked the harmony of achromatic colors or same colors up and down which are not traditional 3) In men's Contemporary folk Hanbok, students were for the harmony of same colors in up and down, preferring wool/polyester to cotton or silk100% (traditional materials) in materials 4) It indicates that what students thought generally of the occasional appropriateness of Contemporary folk Hanbok didn't match with the choice of proper occasion on preferred style. The western clothes have difference in design, material, color and manners of co-ordination related to ordinary cloths and out wear, but Contemporary folk Hanbok don't have these difference. Therefore, it is needed to develop the expensive designs discriminated between ordinary clothes and out wear in design, material, color and co-ordination corresponding to the every day life style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the street style of women in Dalian, China. 1.185 females of Dalian central street have participated for the survey of this study. This study analyzes characterization of the street style and, classifies it's characteristics by age groups, clothing styles, and clothing items. There are three outcomes due to the aim of this study, 1. In age group classification, every age groups preferred casual style. Especially, young/young adults preferred mix-match styles with various designs. Distinctly, some of missy group preferred fashion trend and others preferred mature style. Also, the preference of missies/madame's group is obviously divided into two groups which pursues fashion trend and not. 2. In clothing style classification, casual styles such as mini-skirts, hot pants, tight t-shirts are mostly in tight silhouette. Also, the main colors are indigo-blue, white, black and point color, which are vivid tone and fluorescent colors. The characteristics of sport casual style contribute the upper garment and the lower garment, which forms a set. Classic styles are divided into two groups of typical formal dress and traditional Qipao dress. The colors of feminine style and textile printing are more sumptuous than other styles. 3. In clothing items classification, the points of the upper garments is the construction of designs, textile printing, ornament with beads, embroidery, and ribbon etc., exposed back. The lower garments like hot pants and mini-skirts are made of jeans. The cargo pants that is made of jean, cotton, luster textile. Also, one-piece dress has the characteristics of tiered and irregular hem line.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.219-231
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information necessary for the cleaning of excavated costumes. For the purpose, these researchers reviewed previous records of the actual cleaning of excavated costumes and then implemented and documented the processes of cleaning the Yeosan Song's costumes excavated at Mokdal-dong, Daejeon, which could date back to the early and mid periods of Choseon Dynasty. The excavated clothes of the family provide good examples for comparing men's costume of the 15th century with men's and women's of the mid and late 16th century. The total quantity of excavated remains were 184 and textiles were cotton, silk, hemp, ramie, and union cloth. The clothing remains were processed through wet or dry cleaning in accordance with their fabric condition and the extent to which they were worn or polluted. In detail, the excavated costumes of the Yeosan Song family were cleaned in two stages. For wet cleaning, both anionic(LAS) and nonionic(Triton X-100) surfactants were respectively used as cleaning agents and for dry cleaning, a mixture of n-hexane and n-decane(the ratio of 4 to 6) and petrolic dry cleaning solvent were used. After first cleaning, some cotton, ramie and hemp which had still the stains were processed bleaching and silk which were good condition was processed dry cleaning with the organic solvent again.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.73-80
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• 2006

This study is aimed to produce natural dyeing garments, which contain the sentiments and color sense of Koreans, by using various household supplies, with a view to increase the values added and utilization of natural dyeing. The dyes mainly used for this study are multi-colored ones which are durable after dyeing and can represent various colors. They include Lithodpermum officinale, Caesalpinia sappan, Rubia Cordifolia, Pellodendron Bak, Curcuma Longa L., fallen Ginkgo Biloba, Artemisia Princeps, and Quereus acutissima carr shell. Considering water pollution and other things, aluminum acetate and ferrous chloride were used as mordants. Cheap and practical materials such as cotton cloth and those with traditional patterns and elegance such as silk and ramie fabrics were used to produce baby goods, household supplies, clothes, and accessories. The produced supplies closely contact with our body, so they may have a great effect on human body. The household supplies produced include rug, bedclothes, room bedclothes, curtain, bedding set, cushion, and sunlight blind, in consideration of the functionality or medical actions of the goods which are closely related to the human skin. The infant supplies produced include longcloth for newborn baby, bedding set, gauze handkerchief, and doll. The clothes include night gown, shirt, bath gown, and Korean traditional clothes. The accessories include tablecloth, cup pad, bag, wrapping cloth, mouse and keyboard cushion, and scarf. Nowadays, consumers prefer environment-friendly naturally dyed garments and products. In order to control the naturally dyed garments and products which are traded in the domestic market, it is urgent to introduce such ecological marks as 'Toxproof' and 'Ecoproof.' Currently, many ordinary persons, who are not experts, have interest and participate in natural dyeing, but they simply produce naturally dyed garments, not artistic works or everyday supplies. The present author expects this study will contribute to the production of household goods by such persons. The author also hopes that they will develop and commercialize such designs as suit to modern tastes and senses based on the unique cultural assets of Koreans, so that Korean naturally dyed products may be recognized as reliable commodities equipped with international competitiveness.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.672-678
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• 2011

This was written based on the type and structure of korean man's waist belt in the early and middle era of the Chosun era. The waist belt was excavated from the Mokdaldong in the Daejeon city. The types of korean man's waist belt in the Chosun era were classified into Wondahae (i.e., round shape belt) and Gwangdahae. The Wondahae consist of two types which are circle shaped and straight types. The circle shaped wondahae contain one fringe in the main body of the belt and its joint part is decorated with a small network such as lacing decoration with the size about 1 cm around. The shape of the Wondahae has been changed from the circle shaped into the straight types and also has a tendency to be wider and longer as time went by. The standard form of the Gwangdahae is straight with about 2-3 cm width and elaborated by lacelike fringe as well. This also has a tendency to be wider starting from the 1600s show. The structure of this belts were divided into braid and ornament parts. The ornament part was constructed with the lacelike netting and fringe parts. The sophisticated craft techniques have a great decorative beauty. Through an analysis of FT-IR, the materials of those three belt are known which are made of the silk and the core thread was filled with cotton. Moreover, it can be confirmed that the glitter material of the ornament part were designed with gold foil and has been analyzed with SEM-EDX.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.164-183
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• 2020

In the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty, the historic record of Banpo is fragmentary and contains many missing details. The main reason is a lack of associated literature, and it is also significant that the actual substance used is not clear at present. Banpo is a kind of cotton, but this has not been confirmed in the traditional textiles that are currently handed down. The word Ban [斑] in Banpo means "stain", and the letter Po [布] means "fabric". At the border of white discourse, Banpo did not receive attention as a research topic. This study is an attempt to restore some of the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty through Banpo. Banpo is not just limited to the Joseon Dynasty; it is an important material for examining the development of textile culture and exchange in East Asia. This study was broadly divided into three parts. First, the record and meaning of Banpo during the Joseon Dynasty were examined. Records of Banpo can be seen from the early Joseon period during King Sejo and Seongjong, and the production and actual use of Banpo have been confirmed. Banpo was maintained until the beginning of the 20^th century, but is no longer observed. Banpo is a woven fabric made of cotton yarn dyed in many colors and has appeared in Southeast Asia since ancient times. In East Asia, there are other fabrics similar to Banpo, such as Ho [縞], Sum [纖], and Chim [綅]. In particular, the correlation between Banpo and Ho is an important link in understanding Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty. Second, the meaning of Banpo was examined from various angles through comprehensive analysis of Chinese and Japanese literature records and cases. The appearance and development of Banpo moved in sync with the period when cotton was introduced into East Asia. In East Asia, cotton was introduced and produced in earnest from the end of the Song Dynasty to the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, and the meaning of Banpo was diversified. In China, the name of Banpo was changed to Hwapo [花布], Gizapo [碁子布], Gizahwapo [棋子花布], etc. Japan was late to introduce cotton and developed it in acceptance of the changed meaning. In Japan, use of the name Banpo is not on record, but a Ryujo [柳條] fabric of the same type as banpo has been identified. This Ryujo is the same concept as Ho and Hwapo, and later merged into Ho. Names such as Ho, Hwapo, Banpo, etc. were used differently in each country, but the form was shared across East Asia. Third, based on the meaning of Banpo shared in East Asia, the format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty was classified. The format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty can be divided into grid and striped versions. The name Banpo disappeared over time, but the form remained and was passed down until recently. I hope that this study will help restore Banpo in the future.