• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.851-862
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• 2011

The purposes of this study were to identify the material manipulation techniques for paper garments and their characteristics. Reference books or articles were reviewed and catalogues from paper garments exhibition or show, brochures from Paper Museums, and internet sites of paper fashion designers were selected for analysis. Paper has much similarity with natural cellulose textiles in appearances and contents but has much distinct differences in their physical characteristics such as strength, durability, washability, and resilience, and could be treated as one category of textiles. Paper garments were developed with practicality and functionality for the poor and Buddist monks at first but progressed into more aesthetics later for the rich. Paper garments could be divided into 4 categories of garments made of paper, paper thread fabric or knit, modified paper with wanter, and beaten bark of mulburry bush. Paper can be manipulated by coloring & cutting, bonding, or quilting and bonding or quilting can reenforce the strength of paper but cannot increase flexibility. Paper manipulated by weaving or knitting has very similar physical properties as cotton or linen and ideal for summer textiles. Paper can be manipulated with water to make a paper paste and bodice can be moulded with paper paste or Joomchied. Also we can express beautiful patterns on the surface of paper by washouting. Konnyaku paste or lacquer can be used to make paper garments to be waterproof.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.494-510
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop unique men's pullovers using the patterns of Baekje tile, brick, and gilt-bronze shoes. As the method of the study, it was reviewed of the literature about Baekje traditional patterns and the knitting techniques. The development of pullover design was used TexPro design CAD program. The manufacture of pullover were knitted by Shima Seiki computerized knitting machines and Brother manual knitting machines. The results of study were as follows. First, the patterns of Baekje tile, brick and gilt-bronze shoes were suited to develop as motif for men's pullover. Second, men's pullover using Baekje traditional patterns were able to maintain the identity of Korean traditional culture and express the originality of design. Third, pullover was chosen three styles and was developed four design. Each pullover design was applied four colorway. Forth, pullover products were made by wool 100% yarn or cotton 47%/acrylic 53% mixed yarn. The patterns were expressed by knitting techniques of floating jacquard and birds-eye jacquard. Luxurious knit fashions were produced. Consequently, through the men's pullover development utilizing Baekje traditional patterns was showed the superiority of the local traditional culture, which is further emphasized by the current globalization. It also confirmed the possibility of the development of high value-added knitted fashion products to meet the needs of modern people to pursue individuality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.158-175
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information to Korean fashion designers who wish to advance to the overseas collection. This is done through analyzing the design characteristics of Japanese young fashion designers, Tsumori Chisato, Commuun, and Limi Feu, who have successfully launched their designs into the Paris collection and became global fashion brands. Collections of each brand were analyzed by the overall fashion style and design elements. For the overall fashion style, Tsumori Chisato used a romantic style using details with various ornaments, whereas Commuun shows minimal style with a simple silhouette. Limi Feu expressed avant-garde style with experimental patterns. Moreover, these brands expressed different style to other brands by applying Japanese traditional clothes, patterns, and Japanese techniques in modern view point. In terms of design elements, these three brands used the H-line silhouette. Tsumori Chisato used loose fit; Commuun, slim line; and Limi Feu, boxy silhouette. In the case of colors, materials, patterns and details, Tsumori Chisato showed mix & match with various colors, materials, patterns and details. Commuun used mono tone with black & white using only one or two materials. Limi Feu usually used the color black with cotton. According to the style of the brand and region of the collection, the main characteristics of the design and the application of Japanese traditional elements can be different.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.391-398
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• 2007

Ginkgo leaves, which have been known as medical materials, were selected as new natural dyes in this study, in which it was examined whether they have the function of UV-blocker or not. Cotton, linen & Hanji(Korean traditional paper) were dyed with Ginkgo. Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were selected as mordants. UV-blocking rate of dyed samples was measured after dyeing and mordant treatment. The results of this study are as follows. First, most surface color of dyed samples was yellow except that Hanji mordanted with Cu was yellowish red. Second, dyeing repetition had positive correlations with K/S values of cotton ($r=.\;758^{**}$), linen ($r=.\;500^*$) and Hanji ($r=.\;819^{**}$), because K/S values were increased according to dyeing repetition. Third, solar UV-blocking rates had positive correlations with dyeing repetitions (p<0.01), because UV-blocking rates had increased according to dyeing repetition. Fourth, UV-blocking ability of Hanji was highest among samples, as UV-blocking rates of cotton and linen dyed after 3 dyeing repetition were up to 93%, Hanji's values were up to 98%. Therefore, it was proven that Ginkgo extracts used in this experiment as dyestuff have excellent dyeing ability and high UV-blocking ability. It is hoped that this work will lead to further research to confirm the physiological effects when human wear the clothes made from Hanji.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.391-400
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• 2007

This purpose of this study is to announce the research for the formative characteristics and the constructive characteristics for the 23 pair of pants excavated from the tomb of Yeosan Song's family at Mokdal Dong in Daejeon. Men and women wore the open-type over the close-type pants. Song Hyo-sang and Chungjoo Park wore the 1 or 2 pairs of the open-type pants over the 3 pairs of close-type pants. Song Hee-jong and his wife Sonhung An wore a pair of the open-style pants over the 1 or 2 pairs of pants. It was due to the shortage of goods by the war that Song Heejong had less shrouds than Song Hyosang. The pants were almost made of the cotton and the silk. The open-type pants worn inside was made of the cotton but outside was made of the silk. That time the cotton was used for the unlined underwears for the health and the protection against the cold and the hot. The silk was used for the outwear. In the construction type, 12 pairs of pants were unlined, 6 pairs of pants were quilted, 4 pairs of pants were padded, and 1 pair of pants was lined. All unlined were the close-type and the quilted and padded pants were the open-type, which were worn inside. Lined type was just one. In the wearing order of shrouds, type, textile, and constructive type, Song Hyosang and Chungjo Park were similar, Song Heejong and Sonhung An were similar.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.197-207
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• 2013

The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles caused by $NO_2$. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to 0.01, 0.1, 1, 10, 100, and 1000 ppm $NO_2$ gas in the test chamber at $20^{\circ}C$, 50% RH for 1 day. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. In the case of Korean traditional textile, color difference increased at 1 ppm/day, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration, carbonyl and C-$NO_2$ functional group increased while pH decreased at 10 ppm/day and tensile strength weakened at 100 ppm/day. when it comes to undyed textile, alteration of color difference on silk and hemp cloth, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration and tensile strength on hemp cloth was remarkable. In addition, color difference on blue and yellow textile, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration increase of yellow textile and tensile strength decrease of hemp cloth & ramie cloth were significant. The results suggest that critical $NO_2$ concentration of optical, chemical, and physical damage on Korean traditional textiles are 1ppm/day, 10 ppm/day, 100 ppm/day respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.486-493
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• 2008

Safflower red colorants extracted by two solvents including the traditional ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution was used for dyeing cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, silk, wool, and nylon fabrics. The effects of extraction solvents on the reflectance, K/S value, and color properties of the dyed fabrics were investigated. Wash/dry cleaning and light colorfastness were evaluated. Reflectance curves of cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, and silk fabrics dyed with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were similar, showing the maximum absorption at 520nm, to that of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by ash solution. The reflectance curves of wool and nylon fabrics were different, showing the maximum absorption at 400nm. K/S values of dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution with the exception of nylon. $L^{*},\;a^{*},\;b^{*}$, and $C^{*}$ of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution except for $L^{*}$ of nylon and $b^{*}$ of viscose rayon. Color difference(${{\Delta}E}^*$) of the dyed fabrics between ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution increased in the order named as cotton, silk, ramie, viscose rayon, wool, and nylon. Regardless of extraction solvents, safflower red colorants produced RP color on cotton, ramie, and nylon, R color on viscose rayon and silk, and YR color on wool. Wash/dry cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics was high above 3/4 rating but light fastness was very poor. It is considered that the use of $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution instead of the traditional ash solution would be more effective in terms of color reproducibility and extraction process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.