• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.133-148
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper is to develop waist coat designs that can be worn in the present day by researching design techniques and traditional waist coat forms shown on Korean patchworks called 'Jokakbo', which was commonly used in our traditional culture. By selecting patchwork as the primary motive in particular. The Bojaki, also known as deungguhli or baeguhli(背巨里), gives off a natural and vibrant color sensation. A new design that could be practically worn with modern clothing was developed by sufficiently reflecting this color sensation as well as the aesthetic quality of its geometric shape. On the basis of theoretical consideration of traditional cloth and vest, total of 7 points were designed and produced. These works contain diverse application of the traditional Bojaki and vest. The design of the Bojaki grants rhythmic sense to the side where diverse colors and formative patterns shown on the cloth can be seen as monotonous. The entire side opening of the traditional waistcoat can cover multiple sizes. Depending on the movement, the front and back naturally spreads. The vest can also be worn in layers or used as a cotton quilt depending on the season. And after minimal design alterations, it will be possible to wear the vest with diverse modern clothing due to its straight line and form.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.75-87
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• 2017

Sensitivity has become more important in relation to design in the changing social environment and atmosphere. In the West, the concept of aesthetics has long been established but in the East, only in the seventeenth and eighteenth century China did the discussion begin. In Korea, where the first scholarly discussion on aesthetics began around 1929, more and more rigorous and theoretical discussions are emerging now. Korean beauty consists of the beauty of no-artfulness and the beauty of natural artfulness. Japanese beauty consists of the beauty of half-articulation and the beauty of articulation. While both Korea and Japan base their sense of beauty on nature, Korea emphasizes nature as it is while Japan values artful decorative elements. Especially in modern Korean fashion, the characteristic Korean aesthetics of un-artfulness appears in various expressive techniques such as the movement with natural gathering, the use of natural materials like cotton, the harmonization of black and white, and a simplified silhouette. In Japanese fashion, one can see techniques such as: the beauty of half-articulation expressed through the ambiguity of shapes, colors, and genders or simplicity and paucity using straight lines, the beauty of articulation expressed with bright flower prints and ornaments, accessories of Obi and feathers and the transformed silhouette.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.62-75
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• 2020

In this study, clothing items recorded in Nappyemulmok (納幣物目) and Ugwimulmok (于歸物目) in the early 20th century were examined. These clothing items were recorded on the lists of goods for wedding gifts from the 1910s to the 1930s. A large quantity of these lists were organized into eight categories by analyzing the fabrics of each item of clothing. Representative fabrics used for skirts and Jeogori (such as Myeongju, 明紬) were used widely. Jeoksam was mostly made with ramie fabric. Pants mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of silk. Gojaengi mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of ramie. Danui (單衣) used silk fabrics such Pparinseu, Myeongju, and Gyoju for decorative features that were revealed when rolled up. Naeui (內衣) is believed to be the closest underclothes to the body, and Mumyung was mostly used. Dangmok and calico were used for the Yodae (腰帶) and fabrics such as silk, Nobangju, and JuhangNa were used for outdoor use. This type of categorization is significant, as it can be used as academic evidence to verify and reproduce the clothing of the time by identifying fabrics, colors, and characteristics of certain items of clothing. Lastly, it is expected that the analysis of clothing will provide theoretical data in the same way that movies, dramas, and museum exhibitions feature modern traditional weddings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.87-95
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• 2006

This is a study regarding the development of Cultural Products with Applied Koguryo Wadang Patterns. The objective of this study is in developing unique Cultural Products which combine traditional Korean images with modern feel by utilizing Koguryo Wadang patterns. The among Korean traditional patterns which implicit the sense of beauty and modeling, chose and investigated the Wadang patterns of the Koguryo. And from it, studied about the originality and characteristics of the Koguryo Wadang patterns. In this characteristics of the Wadang pattern, the representative lotus design pattern was based and reorganized to fine the probability of the modern expression using traditional patterns. After design plans were made for each works, natural dyes were used to dye(dip dyeing, printing) the fabrics(cotton:Kwang-mok) by theme. Approximately 16 pieces of Cultural Products that can be used in daily life were created using Koguryo Wadang patterns, including Traffic or credit card cases, Name card cases, Pouches, CD cases, Cushions, Bags, Purses, Vest, Muffler. In addition, the increased quality of the products will be a competitive edge in the world market where products compete with no national bounds.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.158-175
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information to Korean fashion designers who wish to advance to the overseas collection. This is done through analyzing the design characteristics of Japanese young fashion designers, Tsumori Chisato, Commuun, and Limi Feu, who have successfully launched their designs into the Paris collection and became global fashion brands. Collections of each brand were analyzed by the overall fashion style and design elements. For the overall fashion style, Tsumori Chisato used a romantic style using details with various ornaments, whereas Commuun shows minimal style with a simple silhouette. Limi Feu expressed avant-garde style with experimental patterns. Moreover, these brands expressed different style to other brands by applying Japanese traditional clothes, patterns, and Japanese techniques in modern view point. In terms of design elements, these three brands used the H-line silhouette. Tsumori Chisato used loose fit; Commuun, slim line; and Limi Feu, boxy silhouette. In the case of colors, materials, patterns and details, Tsumori Chisato showed mix & match with various colors, materials, patterns and details. Commuun used mono tone with black & white using only one or two materials. Limi Feu usually used the color black with cotton. According to the style of the brand and region of the collection, the main characteristics of the design and the application of Japanese traditional elements can be different.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.409-422
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• 2021

A doctor's coat worn by Seo Jae-pil (1864-1951)-National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 607-was conserved with wet cleaning to remove thick wrinkles and brown stains that had been present for a long time. This paper also applied microscopic observation and infrared spectrophotometric analysis to obtain scientific investigation data on the cotton fabric of this doctor's coat. Information about Seo Jae-pil's time as a doctor, the process of changing his English name, and C.D.Williams & Co., which produced the medical coat, revealed that this doctor's coat was worn by Seo Jae-pil between 1892 and 1898 or 1926 and 1939. Additionally, this paper proposes a pad for filling relics that can protect the shape of modern and contemporary clothing, such as Seo Jae-pil's doctor's coat, for display at a museum site. Specifically, this research provides detailed information on the manufacturing of filling pads that can prevent damage to modern and contemporary jackets and coats so that they can be used in the cultural heritage field by developing filling materials for three-dimensional costume artifacts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.42-53
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to study doll's symbolism representing our social culture and the characteristics of clothing design. The ball joint doll was selected, that are pretty much resembled to human body in terms of facial expression, body proportion, joint movement, etc. Results of research are summarized as follows: the ball joint doll is indicated a doll whose joints are free to move with a round shaped joint, which originated by Yochilya simon, who adopted German Hans Bellmer's method.'rho ball joint doll, first, there appeared state of human isolation due to the material civilization and industrial revolution, and trend of adhering to one's own world made human possess dolls. Second, according to the doll play became a representing play culture among Kidult culture, dolls, that are resembled with human being, were recognized as personalized objects. Third, along of expanding digital culture that makes easy to exchange information via Internet, so, ball joint doll market is growing fast, for which various levels of mania are being formed. Take a look at the doll fashion in modern society. In accordance to form of Look, it is largely categorized Young Casual look, Office look, Ethnic look and Military look. When take a look at design specialty, young casual look was presented as a comfortable silhouette and also made of elastic materials and expressed vivid bright tones. Office look image was expressed as a suit of jacket with skirt, and cotton wool polyester materials and acro-matic colors. Ethnic look was represented by Japanese traditional dress and Chinese traditional clothing. The Military look was generally emphasized army uniforms of straight silhouette and shoulder straps.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.125-142
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• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.