• 대한가정학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.166-188
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• 1973

This thesis chiefly to investigate and study about the historic transition of the dress and ornament which is based on the costume of the folk dance. The folk dance is devide into the styled of the Court and common people I. Investigated and studied on the description of Hak-mu (the crane), Ryun-wha-dae (the lotus blossom) and chu-yong dance (a mask drama) which are the typical models among the folk dance on the view of the scale and history of playing. This research materials are made on abstract of Ak-Hak-Gyae-Bum (the pattern of the music which was compiled by Sung-hyun on the King of Sung-Jong of Yi-dynasdty) and selected from the conservation material and playing in the National Classical Music Bureau nowadays. I am sure the understanding the style of common people is to investigate and research the folk dance which is specified and conserved by cultural property control Bureau. Generally Bong-San mask dance is the typical mask drama on the view of the scale and transmitted, which occupies the wide range of the folk dance. So I selected it as the research material. I am interested in the historic origin and the structure of the dress and ormant conserved till the nowadays and so can catch the hidden conception about the colour and concern of religion in the Korean peculiar living consciousness. From this point, the study of the classical folk costume is activated in this part and I hope this poor article will become a small assistance for another study.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.101-110
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• 2009

Danchung(丹靑) is the traditional Korean patterns that are decorated with various colorful patterned paintings upon each sections of wooden architecture. Although Danchung consists of variety patterns with the meaningful signs and symbols, as an accomplishment of Korean traditional images, there is a few fashion merchandise by Danchung patterns. Therefore, the purpose of this study is about to design Jacquard fabrics, and to develop bags of Jacquard fabric by Danchung patterns, as a differentiated cultural Fashion Merchandise. The theoretical background was researched for the geometric image of Danchung patterns on the basis of the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Danchung. The geometric image of Danchung patterns, which had the shape of circle, triangle, square and hexagon, was designed to the surface design by Jacquard CAD system(i.e., EAT Designscope by Germany) and woven into Jacquard fabrics by Stabuli electronic Jacquard system. Danchung patterns for fabric design in this study was mainly focused on 'ChipJaGum', 'SamJiChangGum', 'ShouSulGum', Moro patterns of lotus flower(蓮花), Rok-Wha(綠花) and so on. To development bags of jacquard fabric, those woven jacquard fabrics were manufactured to bags by applying the selected of twelve bag-designs among the current bag styles. These manufactured bags of jacquard fabrics in geometric Danchung patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they can be used for the unique korean cultural products to further commercialization.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.48-61
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to derive a list of creative thinking techniques applied with the requirements of the appropriate technique for the task of fashion design development among the process of fashion product planning. This was done through the analysis of thinking techniques by the type of thinking and idea method. Also, the study presented how each creative thinking technique derived is applied to the task of developing fashion design. The scope of the study was 'Fashion Design Development Task', which corresponds to the design sketch of a fashion item based on the seasonal design concept derived through the fashion design planning stage. Research on the thinking techniques consisted largely of the process of idea thinking, the elements of creative thinking, the patterns and types of thinking. Four studies by Makoto, Michalko, De Bono, and Cox suggesting that the patterns and types of thinking techniques were analyzed for the purpose of this study as empirical studies through FGI of a group of five fashion experts. The analysis results showed that the thinking techniques suitable for the development of fashion design were derived from the technique of fractionation, attributive listing, scamper, morphological analysis, mind mapping, lotus blossom, pattern language, provocative operation, and forced connection. In particular, it can be confirmed that the scamper was treated as an efficient and practical technique in the many studies.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.176-188
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• 2013

This research examines embroidery panels of Hwarot belonging to the Victoria and Albert Museum (the V&A). There are a total of seven objects and are all disassembled into clothe pieces. They were classified into two groups according to their acquisition year. One group, four objects, was acquired by the Museum in 1920. Considering their materials, embroidery threads, techniques and formative characteristics of patterns, it can be assumed that the objects formed an original dress, Hwarot. Although they look very similar to the embroidery patterns of Hwarot belonging to National Folklore Museum of Korea, they are more finely embroidered with very thin embroidery thread that uses the Jarisu technique. There are some differences in used embroidery threads and embroidery skills between Hwarot artifacts of the National Museum of Korea and the V&A. The embroidery of the National Museum of Korea used thicker threads and longer (approximately 0.7cm) Jarisu stitch techniques. With these details, they would have been made in different time periods. Comparison of the V&A and Changdeok Palace' Hwarot objects show that their patterns' motifs are almost similar but the pattern units, expressions and embroidery techniques are different. Regarding the colors of their patterns, it is noticeable that the peonies are generally expressed in reddish and the lotus patterns are expressed in either bluish or purplish color. It seems that they are contrasted with red-colored flowers and show harmony between yin and yang symbolically. Three artifacts of another group were acquired in 1925. Two of them show patterns almost the same as those of the sleeves of Hwarot (no.33156, no.33158) in Chicago Field Museum collection. The pattern of the remaining object is very similar to Hansam of Hwarot (no.33158).

• 한국환경복원기술학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.47-56
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• 2018

Research was initiated to investigate germination characteristics and germination pattern of 14 herbaceous plant entries used on the road slope during 30 days. An alternative germination condition for 14 herbaceous plant entries required by International Seed Testing Association(ISTA) was applied in the experiment, consisting of 8-hr light at $25^{\circ}C$ and 16-hr dark at $15^{\circ}C$. Significant differences were observed in the first germination rate(0.3%~40.7%)and in the final germination rate(7.7%~93.3%). Days to the first germination(2~8days), days to the 30% germination(2~6days) and days to the peak germination(6~18days) were different among 14 herbaceous plant entries in the study. From this result, we could find out higher final germination rate of 14 herbaceous plant entries in the following order; First, forage crops and cool-season turfgrasses; Second, herbeceous flowers; Third, wild plants. We could also divide germination rate among 14 herbaceous plant entries as 6 groups(I;very high, II;high, III;medium high, IV;medium low, V;low, VI;very low) based on the final germination rate and divide germination speed as 5 groups(A;very fast, B;fast, C;normal, D;slow, E;very slow)based on days to the peak germination. Considering germination characteristics and pattern of 14 herbaceous plant entries Medicago sativa, Lolium perenne, Festuca arundinacea and Cosmos sulphureus were regard as dominating species while Lespedeza cuneata, Silene armeria, Lotus corniculatus var.japonicus, Coreopsis tinctoria and Centaurea cyanus as competitive species following dominating species. However, Chrysanthemum burbankii, Pennisetum alopecuroides, Chrysanthemum boreale., Artemisia princeps var. orientalis and Arundinella hirta were not almost expected to emerge.

• 한국기록관리학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.159-183
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• 2001

이 연구는 조선 초에 제작된 익안대군(益安大君) 방의(芳毅)발원의 "묘법연화경(妙法蓮華經)"제 5권 사경의 경우 발원문에 관한 연구 및 표지화, 변상화, 서체에 관한 고찰이다. 발원문에 관한 연구는 정확한 연대와 발원에 실제적으로 참석한 인물에 관한 연구에 집중하였다. 이 사경 발원문에는 정확한 연대에 대한 기록은 없고, 개국정난정사지원공익안대군(開國靖難定社止功原益益安大君) 방의동실정혜옹주최씨(芳毅同室貞惠翁主崔氏)라는 기록이 보여 상당한 혼란을 가져오게 한다. 표지화는 연화 - 당초문의 표면에 있어서는 고려 말로 호림미술관소장의 묘법연화경 7권분의 표지화로부터 시작된 굵은 태선으로 윤곽선을 그리는 양식적 특징이나 묘선의 경직화가 보다 심화된다. 이러한 특징은 조선적인 것으로 보아도 무방할 것 같다. 변상화는 향우(向右)의 설법화에 나타난 수미단의 계단에 산화가 그려지고 있는 점등이라든지 도식화된 지운(地雲)등에서는 고려말 조선초의 양식을 나타내고 있다. 그러나 석가의 형상이나 광배는 태종 15년(1415)에 제작된 내소사소장 "묘법연화경(妙法蓮華經)" 7권본 한질의 변상화에서 보여주는 특징과 거의 같아 이러한 점은 조선적인 특징이라 할 수 있다. 서체에 있어서는 충선왕 이후, 고려후기 사경 중에 나타나고 있는 송설체(松雪體)가 엿보인다. 이러한 고찰을 통해 조선초 왕실발원 사경의 양식적 특징을 명확히 함으로서 년대 불확실한 고려사경의 년대추정에도 어떤 기준을 미련 하고자 했다.

• 한국기록관리학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.67-85
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• 2004

일본(日本)의 각 박물관에 소장 혹은 기탁되고 있는 감지금니의 네 권의 고려사경 "대방광불화엄경(大方廣佛華嚴經)"은 표지화에서 독특한 양식을 나타내고 있다. 고려시대 사경표지화는 일반적으로 3개 혹은 4개의 연화를 당초문양이 지그재그로 감고 있는데 비해, 이들 네 권의 사경은 금니로 그린 10개의 연화(蓮華)를 그린 표지화가 양식적으로 같아, 네 권 중에 그 어느 것에도 발원문은 없지만, 80화엄경 한 질이었다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 먼저 네 권의 "대방광불화엄경(大方廣佛華嚴經)" 사경변상화의 내용에 관한 고찰을 하였고, 표지화와 변상화를 통해 양식분석을 행했다. 그 결과 제작연대를 밝힐 수 있었다. 코발트색으로 여래의 보발(寶髮)이 칠해져 있다는 점에서는 충숙왕 13년(1326)인 태정(泰定) 3년(三年)에 발원(發願)한 "문수최상승무생계법(文殊最上乘無生戒法)"의 변상화와 같고, 보발 가운데 그려진 계주와 입술이 완전히 분홍색으로 칠해져 있으며, 귀 얼굴 윤곽선 통견의(通肩衣) 사이로 드러난 가슴의 윤곽선 역시 분홍색이라는 점과 여래의 불안(佛顔)이 금니로 도색(塗色) 되고 있다는 점에서는 일본(日本) 금택(金澤) 대승사(大乘寺) 송강(松江) 천륜사본(天倫寺本)이나 일본(日本) 우하사본(羽賀寺本) 사경변상화에 나타나는 특징과 같다. 그러나 지운문(地雲紋)의 양식은 충숙왕(忠肅王) 부위연간(復位年間)의 작품들과 닮아, 이들 네 권의 사경은 충숙왕(忠肅王) 복위연간의 작품이라는 점을 밝혔다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제43권4호
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• pp.56-77
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• 2010

경주 내남면 이조리에 소재하는 최진립신도비의 받침인 석제 귀부(龜趺)는 1740년경에 제작되었다는 기록이 있어 통일신라시대 귀부를 모사한 조선시대 작품으로 인식되었다. 그러나 당시 제작되는 귀부 형식과는 다르고, 모사한 원 귀부의 형식은 어느 곳에서도 찾을 수 없는 모습들이 확인되고 있다. 첫째, 제작 과정을 기록한 '문루일기(門樓日記)'에는 비석을 먼저, 이후에 귀부를 제작했음이 밝혀져 있다. 그러나 비좌 삽입부가 작아 비석 양쪽 끝단을 잘라 삽입한 흔적이 보이며, 비석의 크기를 고려하지 않고 귀부와 비좌를 만들었다는 것은 공정상에 이해되지 않는 부분이다. 또한 비석 제작 부분은 구체적으로 묘사되어 있으나, 백운대라는 사찰터에서 제작되었다고 할 뿐, 공정 내용이 언급되지 않은 점은 당시 실사를 하고 기록했는지 의심되는 부분이다. 둘째, 이조리귀부의 구름문양은 초기의 태종무열왕릉귀부와 서악리귀부 구름문에서 이행되는 시간상의 세리에이션(Seriation)을 잘 반영하고 있다. 비좌 주변을 장식한 연화문은 중앙에 형식화된 보상화가 표현된 것으로 통일신라시대 전성기인 8세기대 기와 등에 가장 잘 나타나던 문양이다. 셋째, 전진하는 모습의 이조리귀부는 지금까지 경주에 전해지는 귀부들에서도 찾기 힘든 생동감을 가지고 있으며, 일렬상의 귀갑문 배치는 이전 귀부의 문양 배치보다 훨씬 간결해지고 공간 활용을 고려한 발전된 형식으로 판단된다. 따라서 이조리귀부는 시기적 변화를 보여주는 문양 형식, 비신과 비좌의 불일치, 기록상의 고찰을 통해 볼 때, 18세기 조선시대 석공이 신라문양의 형식변화 등을 모두 고려하여 제작한 모사품이라기보다는 8세기 중반 경에 제작된 통일신라시대 귀부였음을 제시해 보고자 한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.270-279
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• 2013

This study presents a T-shirt design process that utilizes modernized traditional patterns; in addition, it also includes various modernization techniques for Korean traditional patterns. T-shirts are a representative casual wear item worn in everyday life, especially among young people. The association of traditional elements and public goods such as T-shirts effects the diffusion of the Korean image into global society. Through the whole design process, target groups and design concepts were determined first: collegiate students as well as clean, natural, refined, simple and sporty image, respectively. Subsequently, Dokkaebi, lotus, Dangcho, dragon and Taegeuk patterns were selected as traditional pattern sources. Along with the technique of the division, transformation, and configuration of original patterns, the combining method of geometrical figures, stripe patterns, and check patterns with traditional patterns was helped create modernized traditional motives. Finally, T-shirt designs with a Korean image were developed with the harmonized deployment of modernized motives and color planning. The survey showed that designs had a clean, natural, refined, simple and sporty image that was preferred by collegiate students. This study is relevant in three aspects. First, the design process of modernization was very creative to combine traditional patterns and basic figures. Second, this study expanded the scope of traditional image design to casual wear to promote the Korean image to young people all over the world. Third, the whole design process, from planning to final product development, presented in this study is applicable to other design processes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1322-1331
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.