• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.35-50
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• 2010

In this dissertation, the analysis of the study of female customs from late Joseon Dynasty and their genre painting to research humors and its aesthetic senses in that certain era. The purpose of the genre paintings is to look at general populations in an objective point of view and endeavor better value of public life style to embody clear understandings of humanity. The artists such as Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed their arts based on reasonable reality with sarcastic but humorous and creative ways to criticize the society's problems with clear statements. Therefore, the formative characters are realism, exaggeration and coloring of the whole arts that represents as innovative and original genre of it's time. Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed the women in society as open minded with versatile and refined looks in their paintings as the reality was repressed and closed mind for women figures in late Joseon Dynasty. The female customs in the paintings has both suppression and expression in their dresses and exaggerated shapes of accessories and the use of color were also found. All of these elements has the aesthetic values of satirized eroticism, the hint of next evolution of the late Joseon Era under the conservative disposition of social characters and freedom of expression of playfulness. These elements were new developments and a step forward of female 'sex' and expression of satirized eroticism. The exaggerated and distorted forms and accessories demonstrates unbalanced and asymmetrical elements in humorous characters and they include spontaneity. Also, using the five traditional color schemes of Korean art displays humor in playfulness of an art with splendid and purity, duality of positiveness and artless, smart and elegance looks.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제29호
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• pp.77-85
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• 2001

The change of society causes the change of art necessarily. The experiments of plastic art which as been done by avant-garde movements at early 20th century have pursued ″Object drama″ consistently as trials of more or less abstract drama. As these plastic arts have used genre or media like circuses, sports, variate, films, screen play, newspapers and a quick method which had not been considered suitable for conventional aesthetic plastic arts, these arts looked provocative and, these provocative plastic arts have ignored universality shown in conventional arts and have caused extreme ″sensation″ accordingly. As a result, abstract art based on style which is against aestheticism and naturalism has been generalized. This style does not deny customary laws of art wholly but it requires new concept. Having ignored traditional styles, a new compositive and responsive way of composition which does not deviate from tradition has been pursued. A new and general understanding of arts which do not deny all conventionally-effective standards extremely has been developed. In this regard, this study analyzes characteristics of Bauhaus Theater which has tried to apply new technology engineering to plastic art as an integrated concept of art and technology amongst the directions of development of provocation, innovation and revolution in case of the plastic art of stage painting, and analyzes how this influences on modern painting in terms of avant-garde arts reviewing the meaning of this theory.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.653-664
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• 2007

This study intends to consider about the food culture during the latterly Chosun Dynasty through the genre paintings which are depicted realistically about the total food life figures for example not only the foods, but also that people who eat and drink the food and eating implements, eating methods. There are 9 pieces of works Kim hong-do's which are the best appraisal on the incorporated Korean emotion and on the real life of general public. Those are selected for this study's characteristics through the literature consideration. The characteristics of the tableware pottery and food culture are following things. The first is a white porcelain's development and popularization. In the latterly Chosun Dynasty period, the development of the agriculture and commerce made been connected to the affluent food cultures, these made increase the porcelain's use of upper classes and these made been connected to the development of the porcelain's cultures. The second is the development of various pottery with a dark brown glaze manufactures. The development of agriculture and economy power made bring the development of the kinds of sauces and Kimchi culture with an inflow of foreign crops and these made making the large an earthenware pot or jar which could store something during the long time. The third is the development of the small dining table on the eating the bread of idleness. In the Chosun dynasty period, the food style was been unified to he eating the bread of idleness and been lowered. These made developed of various small dining table through the underfloor heating system's generalization. The fourth is the development of the spoon with the soup culture. It is the East Asia called that the spoon culture boundary, this show the characteristic that we use the spoon mainly compare with another countries. Finally, it is universal use of the fixed quantitative implements. They could live quantitative life with the scales which are jar of soy sauce, liquor jug, jar, scoop leading a set of tableware.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제16호
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• pp.175-199
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• 2013

Capriccio which has emersed in Italy of the 18th century is a new genre of the landscape painting. This genre represents reality, but it is very artificial product correspondingly its concept and character. It's birth place is distributed on various regions in Italy, but the main stage was Rome. Till the middle of the 18th century Rome was the Holy city of the Grand tour, the home of the Neo-Classicism and furthermore the field where archaeology and art history began to be instituted. On such historical situation the Capriccio came out and was recognized as the best popular genre in the visual art. It was favor of the art collection with the antiquity together and reflected the consciousness of the contemporary to the ancient. This study will examine the phenomena in the newly-developed archaeology and with few representative works of Giovanni Paolo Pannini as central term consider the Capriccio and the archaeological connotation. The systematical and institutional archeology which appeared at the age of the Enlightenment, on the contrary to the critical theories at the same time against capriccio, because it was regarded by them as paradoxical and too much sensitive, utilized it as a theoretical method very actively. Some among Historians and archaeologists did it, especially Francesco Bianchini distinguished the capriccio from simple imagination and made it a capacity of the knowledge. And through it he wanted to find out the historical truth. The visual art was influenced and encouraged by such attitude of the archaeology. However it's output spreaded out in various courses. While Giovanni Battista Piranesi, the best known Capriccist of the 18th century, tried to revive the antique through the epical value and his own imagination, Pannini gave priority to the strict historical research. In the such context Panni succeed Giovanni Battista Nolli who made the great map of the city Rome. Their Capriccio profited motive and was inspired by the historians and archaeologists such as Bianchini and Muratori. The Capriccio reflects not only the academic and popular interest for the antique, but also influenced on the upcoming scientific archaeology vice versa. It caused by their reasonable Interpretation and restoration of the antique through the visual medium. Finally as archaeological landscape Pannini's Capriccio is a historical case, in that the Capriccio applied the theoretical method of the archaeology to make art. It served as a momentum for the connotation to the archaeological thought.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.277-291
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the costume worn by women in daily life according to life scenes depicted in genre paintings of the late Chosan Dynasty. The sentiments and customs of the time were examined to discover how costume culture followed women's lifestyles in the late period of the Chosun Dynasty. First, according to life scenes, a field amusement type costume was the most common garment and a commercial activity type costume was the least common garment. Second, when the form of costume was examined followed by the lifestyle it depicted, the following observations were noted. Women depicted in a housework type lifestyle often wore a Minjeogori. In contrast, women appearing in a labor production type or a commercial activity type lifestyle often wore a Banhoijangjeogori with the width of the coat narrowing gradually according to the trends of the time. In the forms of Chima, the women wore a Duluchima and a Gudlchima for convenience during their work and covered a Haengjuchima over it. Third, women shown in a field amusement type, a home enjoyment type or an affection pursuit type lifestyle mainly wore a deep blue colored Chima and Hoijang or Banhoijang Jeogori. While most of the women depicted in a labor production type, a housework type or a commercial activity type lifestyle wore a natural cotton colored Jeogori and a natural cotton colored and light indigo Chima. Fourth, in the field amusement type and the affection pursuit type lifestyle, the wearing of a headdress during outings of women appeared variously influenced by the strengthening restrictions placed on the women's lives according to the ethics of Confucianism.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제6호
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• pp.27-50
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• 2008

This thesis examines contemporary Chinese painting after the Cultural Revolution(1966~76), focusing upon so-called "Chinese Pop art", which I termed as "Socialist Pop art". I considered the art of this period within the broader context of social changes especially after the Tienanmen incident of 1989. After the Cultural Revolution during which idolization of Chairman Mao was at its peak, one of the major changes in communist China was that an anti-Mao wave was generated in almost every social class. For example, novels that revealed the hardships during the Cultural Revolution were published. Posters that openly criticized the Maoism were also produced and displayed on the walls, and demand for democracy spurred widespread activist movements among young generations. These broad social changes were also reflected in art. A variety of art movements were introduced from the West to China, and after a period of experimentation with the new imported styles, artists began to apply the new artistic idiom to their works in order to visualize their own social and political realities they lived in. It was a shift from earlier Socialist Realism to a new expression either directly or indirectly, "Socialist Pop", an amalgam of Socialist Realism and Pop art tradition. After the 1989 crackdown of Tienanmen Square protest, when communist government quelled with brutal measures the students, workers, and ordinary people who rose for democracy, greater urge to protest the Deng Xiaoping regime emerged. This time coincided with the gradual emergence of art using Pop art vocabulary to satirize the social reality, the Socialist Pop art, along with many other art forms all with avant-garde spirit. One of the most frequent subjects of Chinese Pop art was visual images of Chairman Mao and his Cultural Revolution, and new China that was saturated with capitalism, which tainted the Chinese way of life with a Western way of consumerism and commercialism. The reason for the popularity of Mao's image was spurred by the "Mao Craze" in the early 1990's. People suddenly began to fall in a kind of nostalgia for the past, and once again, Mao Zedong was idolized as an entity who can heal the problems of modern China who had been marching towards their ultimate destination, the economic development. But this time Chairman Mao was no more an idol but just a popular, commercial product. He is no more an object of worship of almost religious nature but he has become an iconography symbolizing the complex nature of present Chinese society. During this process of depicting the social reality, Chinese artists are making the authority and sanctity of Maoism ineffective. Dealing with this new trend of contemporary Chinese art in view of "Socialist Pop art" two manners of re-creating Pop art can be illustrated: one that incorporates the propaganda posters of the Cultural Revolution; the other borrows from Chinese traditional popular imagery or mass media, such as photos taken during Mao era. What is worth mentioning is that these posters and photos of the Cultural Revolution can be identified as 'popular' media, as they were directed to educate the popular mass, thus combination of this ingenuous pop media with Western Pop art can be fully justified as a genre unique to China. Through this genre, we can discover a new chapter of the Chinese contemporary painting and its society, as their Pop art can be considered as self-portraits true to their present appearances.

• 복식
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• 제60권3호
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• pp.10-25
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• 2010

The culture of the play of Korean ancient times is well described in the mural painting of Goguryeo. The example is people appearing in the play painting of performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatics out of 20 mural painting of genre. Their costume is broadly classified into performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatic costume and can be subdivided according to the types of costume. First, the head gear of play costume reflected the formality and social conditions of play. In the performance and hunting costume, all performers wore gwanmo(official hats), which seemed to make it a rule to wear gwanmo. Gwanmo was borrowed intactly from Goguryeo without any changes or decorations, which showed that the status symbolism of head gear was applied intactly to play costume. Second, the play costume of Goguryeo enhanced efficiency by blending daily costume with elements and decorations needed for play performance. Specifically the change of length was prominent: the short sleeves of jeogori(traditional blouse), the long sleeves of dance costume, and fastening below the knee or putting into the long shoes to shorten the length of baji(traditional pants). Finally, as it is well known that there was some differences in the expression modes of daily clothes in Goguryeo between Tonggu and Pyeongyang. Similarly, play costume tried to change costume according to the subject of play but maintained the locality and peculiarity of Goguryeo costume. Although performance costume showed many local differences, it also had similarity and peculiarity. In dance costume, long sleeves and patterns which frequently appeared in the Tonggu area reappeared in the Pyeongyang.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제37권
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• pp.121-150
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• 2004

일반적으로 산수표현을 많이 하는 불화 장르로는 십육나한도를 비롯하여 팔상도, 감로도, 관음보살도 등과 조선후기에 특히 많이 조성된 독성도나 산신도 등을 들 수 있다. 이들 불화는 대체로 산수를 비롯하여 다양한 배경을 갖추고 있는데, 18세기 이후 수묵적 전통이 남아있는 경우도 있지만 화려한 채색과 산수를 비롯한 다양한 경물의 표현으로 복잡해지는 경향이 강해지며, 19세기에는 흔히 말하는 민화적 요소가 등장하여 시대적인 경향을 보여 준다. 19세기 말~20세기 초에 제작된 16나한도는 이러한 경향 중에서도 배경묘사에 있어서 전통적인 요소도 있지만 그보다는 채색이나 제재면에서 시대적인 예술경향을 반영하는 민화적인 배경이 가장 다양하고 뚜렷하게 부각되어 배경표현의 주된 요소가 된다는 점에서 다른 불화와 차별된다. 즉 조선후기 16나한도에는 당시 유행하던 민화풍과 궁중화풍 등에서 보이던 청록산수식의 배경묘사가 두드러지며 십장생(十長生) 운룡(雲龍) 맹호(猛虎) 괴석(怪石) 화조(花鳥) 책가(冊架) 등과 같은 새로운 배경표현이 등장하여 폭넓은 수용 태도를 보여준다. 대체로 제재면에서는 수명장수, 부귀, 기복과 관련된 길상 상징물이 압도적으로 많음을 알 수 있는데, 이는 조선시대 서민불교로의 전환이라는 불교계의 동향, 특히 도교와 민간신앙과의 습합이라는 불교계의 자구적 모색과 밀접한 관련을 갖고 있다. 이는 16나한도나 당시 불화에 표현된 다양한 도교인물들의 모습을 통해서 엿볼 수 있다. 주로 19세기 말~20세기 초에 제작된 16나한도에 정형화된 양식의 민화풍이 등장한다는 것은 현존 민화의 제작연대를 추론하는 하나의 단서를 제공해 줄 것으로 생각하며, 불화승들이 민간의 수요와 요청에 의해 민화의 작가로 제작에 적극적으로 참여하였을 가능성을 시사하고 있다. 조선후기 불화에서의 민화적 요소의 고찰은 그 제재나 형태상의 유사점에서 출발했지만, 극단적인 희화화라든가 파격미 등은 보이지 않는다. 오히려 궁중의 장식그림과 유사한 양식의 표현이 많다는 점은 종교화로서의 기능을 갖추고 있는 불화라서 가능했던 것으로 생각한다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.