• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.163-182
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.19-25
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• 1983

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of laundry variables and additives on the removal of deposited calcium on the cotton fabric. Samples of calcium deposited fabric was made by treating fabric with $CaC1_2$ and $Na_2CO_3$ solution subsequently. The experimental variables were: 1) NaOH concentration ($0.0001\%$, $0.0005\%$, $0.001\%$, $0.005\%$, $0.01\%$) 2) Alkaline builders(sodium carbonate, sodium meta silicate) 3) Sequestering agents(STPP and EDTA concentration: $0.02\%$, $0.04\%$, $0.06\%$, $0.08\%$, $0.1\%$, $0.15\%$, $0.2\%$) 4) Temperatures($25\pm1^{\circ}C$, $40\pm1^{\circ}C$, $60\pm1^{\circ}C$) 5) Edge-abrasion to the removal of deposited calcium on the cotton fabric. The fabric was washed for 15 minutes in a washing machine(Model: Gold Star WP-3007) or Launder-0-meter(40$\~$45 r.p.m., Toyo Rika Instrument Inc.) and rinsed 3 times per every rinsing time. The amount of calcium deposits on the fabrics was determined by EDTA-back titration methods and edge-abrasion was evaluated by ASTM D 3886 method. The results of this study were as follows: 1) pH of surfactant solution(NaOH concentration) did not influence on the removal of deposited calcium on the cotton fabric. 2) Added alkaline builders did not influence on the removal of deposited calcium on the cotton fabric. 3) It was shown that STPP and EDTA were effective to remove deposited calcium. The removal of deposited calcium on the cotton fabric was proportionally increased with increasing concentration of STPP and EDTA. At high concentration, however, the rate was rather decreased with increasing concentration. 4) The temperature of washing solution did not influence on the removal of dedosited calcium on the cotton fabric. 5) As the removal of deposited calcium on the cotton fabric was increased, the rate of edge-abrasion of the fabric was gradually increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1479-1490
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• 2010

This study provides basic data for the development of jacket patterns which reflect designs corresponding to the body shape features and preferences of obese women in their 20s and 30s by understanding problems they may encounter in wearing a ready-made jacket by researching the reality of ready-made tailored jacket wearing and their design preferences. A survey was conducted by sampling 82 obese women (over $25kg/m^2$ BMI) between the ages of 20 to 39. The details of the survey consists of general information, interest rate and importance rate on clothes, reality of wearing and purchasing jackets, measurement fits per each part, and preferred designs. SPSS 14.0 was used to analyze the data. The results showed that 76.8% of obese women wore their jackets less than 5 times a month. Those in the 20s wore the jackets more frequently than those in the 30s. The reasons for not wearing jackets frequently included uncomfortableness in activities and unavailability of the correct size. A total of 55% of the total preferred the fitting to be relatively smaller than the body size or tightly fitting. Although in the past, there was a tendency to wear a loose fit to cover the body shape, currently even obese body shapes avoided the loose fit as the tight fit is the trend. In terms of the satisfaction rate for the measurements per each part of jackets, there was a low satisfaction rate for most of the items. For the circumference items such as waist length and chest size, people responded that they were too small and for the length of items such as the length of jacket and sleeve length, people responded that they were too long. This was because the readymade clothes brands increase the length of items and circumference items in uniform in the same intervals when producing large sizes. Both those in the 20s and the 30s preferred a tight fit. In terms of preferred fabric, a wool/spandex mix was most popular and then cotton/spandex. This shows that they prefer those fabrics which allow an excellent activity while maintaining the exterior well. In addition, they preferred black color with no patterns because they wanted their body size to look reduced and did not want to receive any attention.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 1998.11a
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• pp.213-217
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• 1998

본 연구에서는 고감성 의류상품 개발을 위한 기초 자료들 제공하기 위해 폴리에스테르 직물에 대한 감각·감성을 1, 2단계로 나누어 분석하였다. 1단계에서는 얇은 여성 외의용 폴리에스테르 24종을 사용하여 감성측정에 영향을 미치는 제요인에 대해 검토하였다. 즉, 감각·감성측정시 기준직물과 그 평가치 제시 유무, 제시방법(blind/ open eye test), 환경과 직물 종류에 따른 효과를 조사하였다. 2단계에서는 1단계의 결과를 토대로 폴리에스테르 10종을 이용하여 환경에 따른 감각·감성과 물성 변인간 관계를 규명하였다. 1. 1단계의 연구결과, 기준직물 제시유무에 따라 감각·감성에 부분적으로 차이가 있었다. 유색직물의 평가시에는 blind/open eye test에 따라서 몇가지 평가용어를 제외하면 전반적으로 직물의 색에 따른 감각.감성에 유의차가 없었다. 2. 감각용어에 대한 요인분석 결과, 표준환경에서 1요인으로 두께, 무게(두껍다. 폭신폭신하다. 가볍다), 2요인으로 표면특성(매끄럽다. 부드럽다. 오돌도돌하다.), 3요인으로 강연성(뻣뻣하다. 보송보송하다)이 추출되었다. 고온다습환경에서도 유사한 결과였다. 3. 환경 효과는 고온다습환경에서 표준환경에서보다 더 눅눅하게, 덜 보송보송하게, 덜 차게 감지하는 것으로 나타났다. 직물의 효과는 모든 용어에서, 환경과 직물의 상호작용효과는 (차다. 보송보송하다. 뻣뻣하다. 하늘하늘하다. 촉감이 졸다.)에서 유의차가 나타났다. 4. 여러 통계기법에 의해 감각·감성 및 물성변인을 분석하여 종합한 결과, 표준환경에서 감성과 관련높은 용어는 (하늘하늘하다), 물성은 SMD로, 고온다습환경에서 감성과 관련 높은 용어는 (보송보송하다), 물성은 Contact area로 밝혀졌다. 폴리에스테르 직물에 대한 감성의 감각구조는 환경에 따라 상이하며 관련 물성 중 표면접촉특성은 환경에 관계없이 가장 중요한 변인으로 작용한다고 할 수 있다.었으며 또한 essential oil에서는 성별 차이가 없는데 반해 페르몬 향의 경우 성별의 차이를 나타내었다.. 방법을 타액과 혈청내 testosterone 농도 측정에 응용하여 RIA의 결과와 비교하여 본 바 상관관계가 타액에서 r=0.969, 혈청에서 r=0.990으로 두 결과가 잘 일치하였다. 본 실험에서 측정된 한국인 여성의 타액내 testosterone농도는 107.7$\pm$12.0 pmol／l이었고, 남성의 타액내 농도는 274.2$\pm$22.1 pmol／l이었다. 이상의 결과로 보아 본 연구에서 정립된 EIA 방법은 RIA를 대신하여 소규모의 실험실에서도 활용할 수 있을 것으로 사려된다.또한 상실기 이후 배아에서 합성되며, 발생시기에 따라 그 영향이 다르고 팽창과 부화에 관여하는 것으로 사료된다. 더욱이, 조선의 ${\ulcorner}$구성교육${\lrcorner}$이 조선총독부의 관리하에서 실행되었다는 것을, 당시의 사범학교를 중심으로 한 교육조직을 기술한 문헌에 의해 규명시켰다.nd of letter design which represents -natural objects and was popular at the time of Yukjo Dynasty, and there are some documents of that period left both in Japan and Korea. "Hyojedo" in Korea is supposed to have been influenced by the letter design. Asite- is also considered to have been "Japanese Letter Jobcheso." Therefore, the purpose of this study is to look into the origin of the letter design

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1353-1364
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.7
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• pp.1236-1246
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• 1997

본 연구는 1960년대 미국의 청년층에 의해 일어난 반문화적인 현상으로 인식되어온 동양문화의 도입, 특히, 인도문화가 청년문화 전반에 끼친 영향과 더 나아가 이러한 환경변화가 미국대학복식에 미친 영향을 알아보고자 하였다. 1960년대 미국청년문화에 나타난 인도 문화의 영향은 철학, 종교 대중음악 등 다방면에서 보여졌으며, 또한 복식의 형태에도 반영되었다. 복식학자들에 의한 단편적인 추론에만 그쳤던 이러한 복식의 현상을 본 연구는 문헌조사에 의한 객관적이고 과학적인 연구방법을 이용하여 입증하고자 시도하였다. Washington, D.C.와 San Francisco/Berkeley 지역에 위치한 7개의 대학교에서 1960년 부터 1975년 사이에 발행한 대학신문에서 연구자료를 수집하여, 체계적인 자료수집 및 분석을 위한 연구방법으로 사회과학분야에서 주로 사용되어 온 Content Analysis Method를 이용하였다. Content Analysis Method는 예비연구(preliminary study)의 결과를 기초로 인도 복식의 영향을 받은 미국대학복식의 형태를 크게 의복(clothes), 장신구(accessories), 직물(fabrics) 등의 3개 category로 분류하여, 다시 13개의 subcategory(kurta, midriff top, Nehru jacket/suit, Indian shirt/blouse/smock/dress, sari, Indian jewelry, Indian sandal, Indian urn, Indian bedspread. Indian embroidery, Indian print, madras, tie-dye)로 세분하였다. 복식의 형태에 의한 분류외에도, 대학신문의 광고나 기사에 실린 내용을 인도복식이 미친 엮향의 정보를 알아보기 위하여 Attribution information을 3 category(originated, attributed, connotated)로 분류하여 조사하였다. 더불어, 같은 문헌에 나타난 인도에서 도입된 4개의 주된 종교(Transcendental Meditation, Hare Krishna, Yoga. Divine Light Mission)의 빈도도 조사하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 13개의 가인도복식스타일(Indian style)의 Frequency(빈도), Attribution, Duration(기간)의 내응을 포함하는 표로 요약되었다. 또한, 연도별로 Indian style이 나타난 빈도의 Duration(기간)의 내용을 포함하는 표로 요약되었다. 또한, 연도별로 Indian style이 나타난 빈도의 합계와 연도를 축으로 하는 막대그래프를 작성하고 이 그래프에 Attribution Category의 내용도 함께 볼 수 있도록 정리하였다. 대학복식에 나타난 인도의 영향은 여성복식과 남성복식에 있어서 서로 유사점과 차이점이 보이는데, 인도의 영향이 여성복식에 있어서 그 빈도가 더 높고, 종류가 더 다양함을 볼 수 있다. 여성복식에 있어서는 12가지의 다양한 인도복식스타일이 나타났으며, 그중 가장 많이 보이는 스타일은 Indian Shirt/Blouse/Smock/ Dress이며, 그 뒤를 이어 Madras, Indian lowery등을 볼 수 있다. 남성복식애 나타난 7가지의 스타일 중에는 Madras가 가장 빈도가 높으며 그외의 스타일들은 그 빈도가 매우 낮음을 볼 수 있다. 인도의 영향의 정도 (Attribution Categories) 있어서는 여성과 남성복식 모두에 있어서 인도에서 직접 수입된(originated) item이 각각 전체의 90%와 81%를 차지하여, 인도복식의 영향은 받았으나 미국내에서 제작된(attributed and connotated) item 보다 휠씬 더 많은 수를 보였다. 인도복식스타일이 가장 많이 보여지는 시기(Peak period)는 여성과 남성복식에 있어 모두 1968년에서 1971년 사이로 공통점을 보였다. 이러한 결과는 미국 청년 문화에 전반적으로 나타났던 반문화적 현상과 동일한 시기로서, 이는 사회 현상이 복식에도 반영되고 있음을 알 수 있다. 또한 같은 시기의 대학신문에 나타난 인도에서 도입된 4 개의 종교 역시 1960년대 후반 부터 그 빈도가 증가하여 1970년에 리고의 빈도가나타낭으로서 앞의 결과를 뒷받침해 주고 있다. 본 연구에서는 Washington,D.C.와 San Francisco/Berkeley 지역의 대학신문만을 연구자료로 사용하였으나 앞으로는 새로운 연구 자료의 발굴과 연구대상을 타 지역으로 확대시키므로서 미국내 전체의 청년복식에 대한 이해를 증가시킬 수 있을 것이다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 1998.04a
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• pp.255-263
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• 1998

Dust-free garment prevents contamination which otherwise is caused by skin and clothes to protect from dust or dirt. Therefore, it requires high performance and should function as a working clothes. Clothes are a medium between human and thermal environmental system, and it is required to study human enviroment to ensure comfortableness of clothes and to satisfactorily go along with enviroment .This study investigates the physical and physiological features of dust-free garment used in the clean room at a semiconductor factory in oredr to scientifically clarify what the dust-free garmint is as well as to contribute to the design and development of high performance material and clothes. Three kinds of dust-free fabrics (DFG-I, DFG-II, DFG-III) which are being developed by a local company are used to manufacture dust-free garment. These dust-free garments are dressed and tested in such an enviroment as similar to semiconmemts with temperature at 23${\pm}$1$^{\circ}C$ and humidity at 50${\pm}$5%RH in order to investigate the thermo physiological and psychological features of human body. The results of this study are as follows. The results of this study are as follows. 1.The mean skin temperature was significantly different among the clothes, subjects and experimental time. Temperature tends to rise from the time of exercising load. Continuous motion coupled sealed clothes prevents heat transmittance, and temperature rises in the order of DFG-l, DFG-ll and DFG-lll as time course. 2.As for the skin temperature by local timperature is minimun on the head and torso and increares remarkably at the terminal part of human body. 3. As for the body mass loss was significantly higher in DFG-lll than DFG-l and DFG-ll. 4. Though there is no significant difference in the temperature within clothes among the kind of clothes temperature is 1$^{\circ}C$ higher in the back. Temperature within all the dust-free garments 29.7$^{\circ}C$ in the back and 31.3$^{\circ}C$ in the chest which belong to the comfort zone(31-33$^{\circ}C$). The relative humidity is 39.7%RH in the chest and 33.8%RH in the back which is slightly below the comfort zone(40-60%RH) 5. The thermal sensation belong to the comfort zone regardless of the kinds of clothes. The subjects feels a slight fatigue as times goes. As for the subjective sense of subjects the mean skin temperature as well as temperature and humidity within clothes show similar tendency. This means that they relate with each other.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.21-27
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• 2012

In the Chosun period, the noble class usually buried the dead bodies in the lime-covered tomb. Recently their costumes are excavated while maintaining the shape. However, the textiles discovered from the inside have been degradated by a body and moisture. To conserve these textiles one of the most important thing is how to clean these textiles right after the excavation. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of wet cleaning to minimize the color change of textile remains. For this purpose, silk and cotton were dyed with natural dyes (7 red, 1 blue, 6 yellow, 4 green and 4 purple colors), then they were kept for 6 months with pork meat at $10^{\circ}C$, and were washed by four cleaning solutions (water, anionic surfactant (SDS), non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) and natural surfactant (saponin)) at $20^{\circ}C$ and $40^{\circ}C$. The color change was evaluated by color difference (${\Delta}E$) between non-treated and after washed samples. From the results, it was found that the color changes are significantly different depending on the washing temperature, textile material, the cleaning agents and the type of dyes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.928-934
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• 2008

The objective of this study is to investigate the dyeing properties of safflower yellow dye on silk for the standardization of dyeing process and color reproducibility. Yellow colorants were water-extracted from safflower petals, concentrated, and freeze-dried to obtain colorants powder. The effects of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, and pH of dye bath were studied in terms of dye uptake and shade. Fastness to dry cleaning and light was evaluated. Dye uptake increased with raising temperature and brighter and more vivid yellow shade was obtained when dyed at $30^{\circ}C$. As colorants concentration increased, dye uptake increased progressively and the shade got darker and deeper. Maximum color strength was obtained at pH 3.5. It was speculated that the adsorption of colorants seemed to occur mainly by hydrogen bonding and physical force at pH 5.5 and by ionic bonding as well as hydrogen bonding below isoelectric point(pH 3.8-4.0). The results of reproducibility test showed acceptable color difference in the range of $1.11{\sim}2.01$. Washing fastness was fairly good as 4/5 rating, while light fastness was 2/3 rating.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.47-47
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• 2011

국내의 기능성 난연성 섬유 제조기술은 원사 자체에 난연제가 포함된 상태인 난연 PET 원사나, 일반 PET 원단에 후방염 처리한 원단이 사용되기에 난연 방염성능이 만족스럽지 못하고 친환경적이지 못한 실정이다. 오늘날 세계 난연섬유 시장 규모는 10조원에 이르고 있으며 국내에서도 화재에 대한 경각심이 높아지는 추세이므로 기능성을 갖춘 고부가가치 난연소재의 개발이 시급하다. 폴리페닐렌술피드(PPS)는 내열성 및 내화학약품성이 뛰어난 열가소성 고분자로 용융방사가 가능하다. 난연성이 높은 양모섬유 또는 아크릴계 난연섬유, 아라미드 섬유 등은 비용 문제로 범용화에 한계가 있으므로 비교적 저렴한 PPS 섬유가 개발될 경우 범용화를 기대할 수 있다. 현재는 PPS 섬유가 특수한 용도에 주로 사용되고 있으나 우수한 난연 특성을 이용하여 일반 용도로의 사용 및 수요가 급격히 늘어날 것으로 예상되며 우선적으로 인테리어용 원단, 특히 커튼이나 소파용 원단으로 용도 전개가 가능할 것으로 판단하였다. 본 연구에서는 소파용 PPS 원단의 후가공 조건의 선정 및 불소계 발수방오가공을 위한 최적의 조건을 선정하고자 하였다. Padding(wet pick up율 $80{\pm}3%$)-Drying($105^{\circ}C$, 2.5min)-Curing은 시간은 1분으로 고정시킨 후, 온도를 150, 160, 170, 180, 190, $200^{\circ}C$에서 처리하여 Yellowness값을 측정한 결과, 온도가 높아질수록 Yellowness값이 커지는 것으로 미루어 보아 PPS원단은 높은 열에 영향을 받아 황변 현상이 일어나는 것으로 사료된다. 특히 $180^{\circ}C$를 기점으로 값에 큰 변화를 보였으므로 최적의 열처리 온도는 $170^{\circ}C$로 선정하여 이후의 실험을 진행하였다. 또한 큐어링 시간이 황변에 미치는 영향을 분석한 결과 온도에 의한 영향에 비해 적은 편으로 사료되었으나, 1.5min을 기점으로 Yellowess값이 높아졌으므로 최적의 열처리 시간을 1분으로 선정하였다. 최종 가공조건인 $170^{\circ}C$, 1분에서 처리한 시험포는 처리전 원단과 비교하였을 때, ${\Delta}$Yellowness가 2.84 정도로 나타났다. 그 후, PPS 원단에 불소가공제 (TG-991N, 동인텍스켐)의 적정 농도를 선정하기 위해 1~7%까지 농도를 높이며 처리한 결과, 불소가공제의 농도가 높아짐에 따라 황변현상이 나타남을 알 수 있었다. 농도가 높아짐에 따라 Yellowness값은 증가하다가 4% 이후 완만해지는 것을 알 수 있었으므로 IPA/Water Drop test와 발수도시험 (KS K 0590;2008)을 통해 적정 농도를 선정하였다. PPS 원단은 불소가공제의 농도가 높아짐에 따라 발수도가 우수해졌으며, 가공제 농도 3% 처리만으로도 우수한 발수도를 나타내었으나 100% 발수를 위해서는 가공제 농도가 5% 이상 처리되어야 하는 것을 확인할 수 있었다.