• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.39-59
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• 1981

This article briefly researched the Picture of Welcoming the Governor of Pyongan Province painted by Kim Hong-do, penname Danwon(1745-1818?). The Picture was composed of three parts and its historical and pictorial back-ground were reviewed firstly. And later the dress and its ornament appearing on the Picture were studied. In the historical viewpoint of dress and its ornament, the Picture shown all sorts of dress from lower class maids and servants to higher officials-dignatories and governor, and dealt with nearly all dresses. In order to support and to make better understand the dresses of that age, some Korean literary works of the same period depicting the dress and its ornament were also selected. This article dealt with the dress and its ornament. especially that of 18th century of the Yi Dynasty, and comparatively studied for our folk painting with literary works. Also the picture enabled to make this study was an important data of our old dress and its ornament. This painting was considered as one of our cultural treasures. Several conclusions drawn out from this study as followings: 1) In male and female dress of lower class people; male dress was consist of trouser and coat, and coat, and over the coat SOCHANGYI were used. Female dress was basically consist of skirt and these were white color of their favourite. Mainly simple color was used for clothing and its dress style were CHAKSOO-HYONG (narrow sleeve style) which convenient for a work. 2) Yangban's dress was consist of trouser, coat and over the coat, usually DOPO(over-coat) were used and some case JICKRYONGPO (a sort of over-coat) or CHANGYI were also used. These were GWANGSOO-HYONG (wide sleeve style) of inconvenient for a work. 3) In head-gear, there was no difference of the higher and the lower. They usually used HEUC-KRIP (black Korean hat). The OCKJUNGJA, GONJAKMI (peacock tail), HOSOO (tiger beard), and YOUNGJA (chin strip) were used according to officials ranks as head-gear's oraments. 4) Local petty officials used ordinary dress and CHUPRI (warn-dress) were also used by them, and military officials used war-dress of tight sleeve. 5) The belting of over-coat are different in color according to official grade. The higher grade wore red-wide belt, but generally black narrow belt for ordinary officials. 6) All KISAING girl wore SAMHYEOIJANG upper coat. And their head ornament were black KARIMA for grown KISAING. SAYANG hair for DONGKI or maiden KISAING and BINYEO (an ornamental rod of women's hair) were inserted into the hair of rear down part of head. The water carring maid wore BANHYEOIJANG upper coat and no KARIMA were on head and their coat were gloomy color. Above mentioned are several conclusions, and there migh be a false or erroneous explanations of 18th century dress and its ornament, however I considered they were data for blank period of quite unknown.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.67-77
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• 2003

This study investigated the difference of the purchasing realities and the degree of satisfaction of maternity dress according to occupation and age. The purpose of this study was to collect data needed to the maternity dress maker for the better quality of their product and the more comfortable maternity dress wearing of pregnant women. The results of study were as follows. The attitude of purchasing and the degree of satisfaction of maternity dress according to age showed significant differences as follows. First, the dress styles were the significant difference in the kind of formal trousers and casual trousers, one-piece dress, jumper skirt+shirt, vest+trousers. Second, the purchase place was the significant difference in the shop of clothes made, market, maternity dress shop, wearing together. Third, at the purchase time of dress, the satisfactory degree of an appraised standard was the significant difference in the period of wearing, the easiness of exchange and repayment, the wearing numeral degree of other people, price, discount sale, degree of brand recognition, encouragement of other people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.8
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• pp.39-52
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• 2003

This study was classified according to types added ‘Seon(선)’ to the dress of Chosun Dynasty and analyzed them into formative characteristics. the results were as follows ; 1, ‘Seon’ is divided into three types of the standard, the decoration and the application. According to three types, the types of the standard are subdivided into Jemul Seon(the shape put the right side into lining) and the different color Seon. The types of the decoration are subdivided into Stitch, Surround, Gild and Embroidery form. And the types of the application are subdivided into Piping, Fur, Braid and Metallic form. 2, It showed as the different color Seon and Jemul Seon in the case of men dress and as the different color Seon and Gild form in that of women dress. 3, Its application showed in the ceremonial dress and ‘Po(袍)’ types of men dress and in the ceremonial dress and as accessories of women dress. 4, It was used as complementary color tone in both men and women dress. 5, It was used as its surface in men dress and as its reverse side in women dress according to Seon of style. 6, It was used as ‘Sa(紗)’ in men dress and as ‘Dan(緞)’ in women dress according to Seon of texture. 7, Seon of an aesthetic characteristics was distinguished according to Seon of forms, that is to say, Jemul Seon standed for calm beauty, Two color Seon standed for dynamic beauty, Stitch, Surround and Piping form standed for delicate beauty, Gild and Embroidery form standed for brilliant beauty and Fur, Braid and Metallic form standed for solid beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.33-68
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• 1993

The purpose of this paper is to survey the influence of the culture change on the dress and personal adornments, and to survey the change of factors from the August 15. 1945 to 1960, in connection with the social and cultural background, applying B. Malinowski′s "Theory of Culture Change" which means an acculturation is the change′s elements of the dress and its ornaments. It is remarkable that the dress and personal adornments of Korean women after August 15, 1945 has great change from the traditional dress of the thousands years. Through the Liveration on August 15, 1945, American military government and the establishment of the Korean government, American democracy has brought many changes on Korean society. Advancement of education, an society with developed economic life, and introduction of scientific skill have influenced on the women′s way of thinking and a style of behavior and the view of value. The acculturation, the supply of mass communication, introduction of new institution and the reorganization of the old institution, the change of the economic situation, the change of the educational system, the change of the point of value, the development of scientific skill have greatly influenced on the dress and personal adornments. Modern dress and personal adornments of Korean women has the following developing procedure. The Liberation from Japan on the 15th, of August, 1945, the stationing of American Soldiers during hte Koran War, returning of the oversea′s brethern, and the mass communication have the direct and indirect contact with western civilization, and bring the occasion of development of the modern dress of Korean women. The increase of mass communication, such as radio, TV, newspaper, magazines and the frequent fashion shows showed fine design and practical western style dress to the women. This was the real beginning of the western style dress in Korea. By the increase of employment and the improvement of the economic situation, the consumption of clothing and the adornments was increased, so that a wide variety of fashions was set, and numerous kind and form of dress came in. As the increase of the number of women students, their practical and free dress life demanded western style dress. After the Liberation from Japan, the open-door policy of sex, public morals and traditional ethics became lax, and in this disordered society, indecent expose of the body was common. By the different kind of technological development, the form, fabrics, colors and patterns in clothes were much influenced and the hair style, make up, shoes and adornments were much influenced too. As shown above, the change of the dress has the same connection with that of society and culture. This shows that the dress and personal adornments represent clearly the cultural phenomenon of the society and cultural change of the society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.166-182
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to develop a wedding dress design using digital clothing program to produce an actual dress. The level of actualization of the wedding dress design through digital clothing was evaluated by comparing the shape, ornament details, material, and tone. Also, the direction of improvement was sought by apprehending the limitations for the future of wedding dress design created by digital clothing. In order to evaluate the level of actualization on major design techniques of wedding dress, design planning of 4 dresses was performed based on the major images of wedding dresses. Virtual dress was created using DC Suite program and an actual wedding dress was produced using the pattern created in the process of virtual dress designing. The wedding dress designed by digital clothing was superior in silhouette or expression of pleats, but they rather lacked in expressing corsage, 3-dimensional objects, sheen material or double material. However, by supplementing a few functions, digital clothing can be effectively utilized in wedding dress design with the convenience and speed of digital operation. The digital clothing performs rapid production in the design development stage, modifies simply and confirms in real time and is highly effective, Therefore, if a program designed for wedding dress is developed, its effectiveness will be improved to maximize the customer satisfaction, and it will significantly reduce the time and cost which will make a great contribution to the wedding industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.135-151
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• 2000

The porpose of this research is helping product developments and establishment men's marketing strategies. This contents are divided into two parts; the dress shirt's wearing condition and the dress shirt's buying condition. The subjects of the research were male that aged 25-50 and their company is resided in Seoul. The conclusion of this research is summarized as below ; 1. Many consumers have wrong term recognition of dress shirt. Most of men know their dress shirt's sizing designation as casual method(ex, $\cdots$95, 100$\cdots$). Therefore it is happened fitness complains. Dress shirt's wearing frequency for a week is 1-2 days or 5days mostly. A number of dress shirt’s wearing period for one is 6-12 months. Dress shirt‘s wearing frequency fand wearing period varies according to their age, unmarried or married situation, scholarship, occupation. So the manufacturer of men's dress shirt grasps the factor's for their character. 2. The conclusion of dress shirt's buying motivation is need better than impulse buying. If company planning season event, the selling will be improved. Most of men buy their dress shirt by themselves. It means a lot of men are interested in their clothes comparing to old days. And men's favorite purchase place is a department store and agent. when they purchasing, the color and size is very important factor. But dress shirt's sizing designation is not yet established. Therefore the dress shirt's sizing designation is needed as possible.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.85-102
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• 2015

This study aimed to develop dress torso patterns with both aesthetic and functional qualities that fit for women in their 20s. In order to develop dress torso patterns, wearing tests were done. By collecting drafting methods of the patterns through literature study and the survey of wedding dress manufacturers, four kinds of dress torso patterns were selected. The existing dress torso patterns have no or very small ease in chest, waist, and hip circumferences. As a result of wearing tests of these four existing dress torso patterns, drafting methods of dress torso patterns that have the best satisfied values close to optimum zero were selected; the first and second research dress torso patterns were developed by modifying and supplementing items that had noticeable difference through the Wilcoxon rank sum test with a selected measured value and a best satisfied value of zero; and deduced a drafting method for the final developed dress torso patterns by a wearing test of the second developed dress torso patterns. Distinctive aspects of drafting methods of the final developed dress torso patterns were that ease for each area was given differently by considering a functional quality and a chest circumference instead of a bust circumference was applied to reduce influence by the size of breast in neck and armhole areas, and a back bust level. Back neck breadth was made wider and front neck breadth was made less narrow due to a recent change of age 20s female adults' shoulder and back shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.235-247
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• 2000

This study was conducted to consider the formation of sleeves from the point of view that dress is one of expressive arts. The formative meaning of a sleeve and its chronological formation according to its formative changes as an evidence showing the Internal changes of social culture were examined, centering around day dress of England in the 11th to 19th centuries. Then, sleeves were formatively classified and their aesthetic values were considered to help do formative, aesthetic expression of dress design in the present times. Literatures and references concerning the history of domestic and foreign dress were used as a method of study. The results of this study are summarized as follows. 1. In the women's dress, the formation of the sleeve focuses on aesthetic decoration. This means that in the androgentric society the status of women are subordinate socioculturally. 2. Sleeves were classified into a fitted shape and a extension shape according to the aesthetic formation. The fluted shape expressed the beauty of body with emphasis old natural body, whereas the extension shape represented aesthetic expression of decoration. 3. The formation of a sleeve has influence on forming an image of dress by making the silhouette of dress natural or distorted, expresses the harmonious beauty of the whole dress, and produces the expressional beauty that gives a distinct characteristic to a dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.97-108
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• 2004

This study was conducted to examine the marking efficiency of a dress pattern in order to reduce textile loss by pattern marking. A basic one-piece dress pattern saved to the Yuka CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marking efficiency in different conditions. Condition of marking experiment is made it a rule to use 150cm textile width and apply 44, 55, 66 pattern size for three pieces of a dress patterns. The results of the study indicated that the marking efficiency rates of the dress pattern with a separate facing was higher than the one with a self facing. In the dress pattern with a separate facing, the separated seam at center back was appeared to have a higher marking efficiency than the extended seam. It was also found that the efficiency rate was higher in the pattern with a seam at center back when comparing with the dress pattern without a seam. When the marking with a horizontally-loaded collar was compared with a vertically-loaded collar, the efficiency rate was higher for the collar loaded horizontally, The result of the study showed that the type of facing, the location of a seam, and the direction of collar loading were the factors directly related to increasing marking efficiency. The dress patterns marked efficiently in terms of a type of facing, seam, and collar treatment can reduce fabric loss and also shorten the time needed for marking process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.121-135
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• 2003

This paper is about the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty, just before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, through painting-Kiyeonghoido. In the Chosun period, dress styles played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The most remarkable signs of social standing are the hair ornaments. Officials in ranks, noksas, and seoris are wearing a same, a yugakpyeongjeongeon and a mugakpyeongjeongeon respectively. The head ornament for musicians in high ranks is a samo, and, for those in low ranks a hood or a heuklip. Accordingly, head ornaments were important articles among apparels, and especially ripja was an article that sensitively reflected the contemporary fashion. Such a trend also influenced the common people's styles of dress. Thus, the style of the heuklip worn by the chamberlain in Kiyeonghoido resembled of yangban's. Actual official uniforms also diverged from the specifications for them. Sangboks were red for both dangsanggwans and danghagwans, but their ranks were marked by the material of their dress rather than by the breast plates. Dress styles change over time as the society members influence and are influenced by each other. Therefore, owing to the social characteristics of a hierarchical society, dress styles are distinctive according to the wearers' social standings and roles, and various dress styles emerge that deviate from regulations. The significance of the present paper is to review the diversity of the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty.