• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.149-165
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• 2012

This study is to understand the characteristics of women's Hanbok fashion in the modern Korea by investigating the features of colors and color arrangements of remaining relics. The summary of findings from the researches and analysis from over 1840 pieces of Hanbok relics in modern Korea are as follows: First, since western-style cloth were introduced and utilized for Hanbok from 1960, the number of colors have drastically increased. However, the most commonly used colors and parts throughout all the periods remained the same. These are Y, R and white colors for Jeogori and Y, R and PB colors for Chima. And, as for the representative color of each of the six periods, significant changes of color were found Jeogori in the 1960~1970s. While no clear color changes were found in the period prior to the 1960s and after the 1980s. Secondly, as for the color tones, although the high luminosity-low chroma were generally used over the periods, it was observed that various colors of low luminosity-high chroma began to be used from 1960 and so Jeogori became more colorful. And lastly, Y and white color were taking up the highest percentage in the solid color arrangement. When composing 2 colors, the Y tone color dominants with R tone as sub-color was the most prevalent, and when 3 and 4 colors were combined, the extra color were increasingly seen in the upper garment cuff and collar so that the arrangement of different colors increased the aesthetic symbols when combined with the colors of the Chima.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.183-199
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• 1995

Among many different approaches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by including political , militarial , economical , cultural , and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes according to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations invariety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physical activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed it role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Based on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving . Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating wit feathers . Jowoguan(조우관) is one of the examples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect , this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however men and women wear were claryly distinguished. Unlike other clothes that were restricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume . Monks wore black clothing (내의) that was influenced from China and the Western Regions(서역). To emphasize their religious power, Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of fire and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.185-199
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• 1995

Among many different approches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by in-cluding political, militarial, economical, cul-tural, and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes accord-ing to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations in variety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physi-cal activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed its role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Baseed on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving. Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating with feathers. Jowoguan is one of the exemples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect, this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however means and womens wear were claryly dis-tinguished. Unlike other clothes that were re-stricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume. Monks wore black cloth-ing that was influenced from China and the Western Regions. To emphasize their religious power. Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of five and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.143-157
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• 1998

This research is to aim at presenting arrangement of colors, visual and symbolic through combined coupling ofI-Ging and Sackdong. This combined couplings is attempted to be approached by the following 4 conceptual steps :ⅰ) Is it appropriate to even try to coupleI-Ging with Sackdong\ulcorner ⅱ) Is the basic structure of Kwai an object of stripe colorizing\ulcorner ⅲ) What are the fundamental colors for this purpose\ulcorner ⅳ)combined of Kwai and the fundamental colors. Theoretical background for this study is as follows.ⅰ) Color accord and arrangements of existing Sackdong. ⅱ) An attempt to coupleI-Ging with Sackdong The purpose of this research is to expand concrete concept of Sackdong, which is to be utilized not only in costume design, but in the whole realm of design, by presenting feasible application of stripe coloredI-Ging. The summary of conclusion of this research is as follows. A. Is this aforementioned attempt academic\ulcorner B. Standardization of stripe-coloring is essential. Furthurmore we can conclued that the under-standing ofI-Ging and its basic philosophical background and the fundamental mechanism of colors in traditional costumes is necessary condition for standardization of Kwai. Along this path, however, conditions to be satisfied and priorities to be given depend upon the decision of an individual or a group. In my view, sripe-colorizing of 64 Kwais ofI-Ging followed by intuitive matching of colors with the in-terpretation of Kwais seems to be the most appropriate solution.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.39-39
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• 2003

The currently used personal color analysis is mostly based on Westerners' skin colors. As a result, the suggested colors are often not suitable for Korean people's skin colors. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to develop 'Personal Color Design System(PCDS)' that can suggest fashionable colors suitable for Korean skin colors and personal color types. For this, the system was verified by customers testing and questionnaires, while the system modification and complementary measures were conducted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.33-49
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to analyse the previous color studies. A number of publications and journals were reviewed and analyzed carefully. The results of review and analysis were as follows : There were many different subjects in color studies and they were usually categorized into ten fundamental groups : color preferences, color image/symbol/association of ideas, emotion and colors, image making with colors, colors related with consumers' decision making, traditional colors, semantic color description, color plan of apparel merchandise, influential factors on colors, and color coordination preferences. In general, the color preference studies are conducted most actively, and they are followed by the studies of color image/symbol/association of ideas and traditional colors. In the previous studies on the color preferences, they provided sufficient amount of information on the preferred colors and the preferred apparel colors. however, they lacked in providing appropriate explanation on how these color preferences were related with colors in fashion. Also, there have been no thorough studies that questioned the reliability of measurement methods for obtaining color preference data. The authors also realized that it was extremely difficult to find any related publications on the studies that focus various influential variables on the disagreement between the preferred color and preferred apparel color. Thus, this study directed the future studies to solve the problem discussed above.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.85-98
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• 1996

WE SELECTED 30 SORTS OF PLANT-DYES WHICH WE CAN GET EASILY AROUND US DYED TEXTILE FABRICS THROUGH EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES AND GOT SEVERAL GOOD COLORS AS FOLLOWS WITH HISTORICAL REVIEW-ING ABOUT THE TRADITIONL NATU-RAL DYEING. 1. We got the colors of brown most com-monly yellow the nest black green and red in order of frequency 2. It is dyed more rapidly beautifully and deeply to the silk than to the cotton. 3. Salt worked the colors deeply K2CO3 more light FeSo47H2O more darkly and Alum the most beautifully and brightly as a mor-dant. 4. natural plant dyes contains various sorts of colors and we could confirm the possibility to create the composed implicit and secondary and tertiary colors through dual method of dyeing which couldnt's be got in the field of modern chemical dyes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.16-32
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• 2006

Perceived meaning of color uniquely forms and is being highlighted as an element of creative design in the modern design industry as well as traditional culture. It is necessary to compare the perceived meanings of color and clothing color of Korea and Japan in order to find out the model of Korea's original color. The purpose of this study Is to draw the results of examining the perceived meanings of color revealed in the culture, arts and clothing color of the both countries and comparing them depending on contemporary times. The scope of study is limited from the ancient times to modern times (about BC.IC-early20C). In the methodologies, the literature and the empirical study focus on both counturies' literature, including art history, ethnology, and the history of clothing; and their paintings and relics, which are all related to clothes. The perceived meaning of color of Korea was prominent with the beauty of nature and gorgeousness throughout the history. The colors were mostly white colors, light colors, and single colors such as obangsaek, which are high pure degree colors by which color is changed depending on darkness and lightness, while that of Japan featured clothing colors combining various colors and middle colors.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.14-30
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to establish how main characters' mental states are expressed through costumes and makeup by understanding and analyzing the relationship between the costumes and the makeup in the movie "Anna Karenina" and to compare the 19th century Russian costumes. The study methods are a literature review and an empirical case study. The results are as follows. First, the costumes in "Anna Karenina" are a mixture of late crinoline and early bustle style in general. However, the costumes were altered after the actress's movements and acting were considered. Regarding colors, Anna wears a lavender robe as the virtuous wife, a wine-colored robe for love and death, and a white robe for innocence, thus reflecting her mental states; through the colors, her changes of mental state are expressed. Second, the costumes of Alexei Vronsky, are similar in style and colors to those of mid-late 19th century Russian military uniforms. White, blue and black costume colors are used to describe his situations and emotional changes. Third, Alexei Karenin wears 19th century costumes of dark and achromatic colors without decorations, representing his conservative, authoritative character. However, he showshis rage with a wine and red-colored costume at the end of the movie. Fourth, regarding the makeup in the movie, Anna wears makeup of a soft pink-gold color influenced by 19th century naturalism. Male characters express their characteristics with their beards and hair styles. Vronsky's Hollywood mustaches and wavy blonde hair show his charm, and Karenin's chin curtain beard and bald head reveal his conservative character. The costumes of the three main characters in the movie are not very different from 19th century style in general, but mental states and situations are expressed through accessories, and colors maximize all of the effects. Through this research, it is illustrated that the costumes and makeup in a movie can not only express characters' emotional changes but also show the relationships between the characters in different scenes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.112-124
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• 2006

Globally, several ethnic groups have expressed their spirit cultures based on their ethnic identity in diverse ways. Clothing has been one of the convenient objects to express ethnic identities. Therefore, patterns and colors used in traditional costumes have worked as a means to help understanding spirit cultures of ethnic groups. Since colors help strengthening solidarity of social members based on ethnic preference and community consensus, colors have performed a crucial role as a strategic tool in the fashion business closely related to consumers' individual characteristics. In survey results, color preferences of Korean and Italian specialists showed significant differences in signboard colors and disliked colors. Many Korean fashion specialists selected pink as a preferred color, black as a clothing color, red and white as a color with high visibility, and orange as a disliked color. In case of Italy, many specialists selected red and black as highly visible colors for a signboard, and green as a disliked color. In results comparing color preference for colors between Korean and Italian fashion design specialists, there were differences in color sensibility. Since this research used data from survey conducted using a very limited and much manipulated stimuli among a wide range of color schema and patterns, the study result may not be fully generalized. In future studies, more research using diversely segmented stimuli would be needed.