• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of Hanbok pattern research published in journals and theses. We collected 70 articles related to the Hanbok pattern. The articles were divided into 7 chronicles based on publishing year, and analyzed by journal, publishing year, research theme, wearing subject and research pattern. Researches can be categorized into journals, university research paper, and master's theses. After 1981, studies on the pattern of Hanbok have been continuing. Most researches were focused on traditional Hanbok, especially about Jeogori. Research on modernized Hanbok started from Vchronicle(2001~2005), but it has not progressed anymore. According to the analysis on wearing subject, the number of research for female Hanbok was almost three times that of the male. Most researches were performed on adult Hanbok, and subjects were expanded to children, adolescents and middle-aged. The body shape of the wearer did not mentioned on many articles. Pattern researches started from excavated costume, but most researches were about commercial patterns. These researches on the pattern on Hanbok have shown an increasing tendency as the years passed, but researches on modernized Hanbok, including Hanbok pattern development for modern life style should be conducted more actively. In an aging society, as the number of middle-aged consumers increases, pattern research on middle-aged or older people and their various body shapes should be necessary.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.38-45
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• 2009

First of all, the properties imparted to PET fabrics are resistance to and recovery from creasing or wrinkling when wet or dry; high resistance to stretch in the filament yarns but not in the staple; high abrasion resistance; good texture and appearance; resistance to heat ageing; good chemical resistance and good resistance, behind glass, to sunlight. But, the low moisture regain of PET fabric conduces to static troubles in textile processing. Furthermore, garments made from PET may, during wear, develop electric charges which attract to the fabric particles of soil(dirt, swarf, dust) flying in the air, so that the cuffs of shirts, for example, become soiled quickly and are not easily laundered clean. The sericin constitutes 25$\sim$30％ of silk protein and surrounds the fibroin fiber with sticky layer that supports the formation of a cocoon. The useful biochemical properties of sericin protein are oxidation resistant, antibacterial, UV resistant, hydrophilic property, and good affinity with hydrophobic material. These properties can be used as an improving reagent or a coating agent for natural and synthetic fibers, fabrics, and other intermediate products. The sericin is also applied to cross-link, and can be blended with other materials. In this study, we modified the surface of PET fabric by mixture of sericin finishing agent; sericin, polyuretane binder and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) cross-link agent. Also, we investigated the finshing effect; moisture regain, stiffness, handle, drape and electrostatic. The moisture regain of PET fabric treated with sericin finishing agent was higher than that of untreated PET fabric. As a result of evaluating influence about handle of PET fabrics treated with sericin finishing agent, it was confirmed that the sericin finishing agent could be use as a linen like finishing agent.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.117-128
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to understand changes of the current young generation's lifestyle, aesthetic attitude for an appearance, and way of thinking by making a close investigation into metrosexual, the recent mode, and find out its cultural and social implications. As a method of the study, the literature and the Internet data were reviewed. Articles from newspapers, magazines and the Internet were chosen roughly from the year 2000 to now because metrosexual mode remarkably boomed before and after 2000. Books related to the theory on the mode in a costume culture were referred. Also, articles in daily newspapers which dealt with cultural and social issues were reviewed, fashion magazines for men such as Esquire and GQ showing the new trend in men's lifestyle and fashion were examined, and the Internet providing us the latest news from cultural and social topics to fashion trends were investigated. The backgrounds of the rise of metrosexual mode were a collapse of stereotypes in various fields, spread of lookism in a visual image period, extension of commercialism, and expansion of men's character casual trend. Metrosexual was defined as an urban male with a strong aesthetic sense who spends a great deal of time and money on his appearance and lifestyle. His fashion style was characterized by slim and flowing silhouette, feminine and luxurious materials such as transparent chiffon, silk and cotton with a light and soft touch, and a knitted wear with a flowing line, a wide variety of vivid and pastel colors, floral and geometric patterns, and the decorative details like lace, beads, embroidery, and fur. From spread of this mode, two cultural and social implications were extracted. Firstly, the current young generation's aesthetic standards for the perfect man changed from macho man to considerate man who had a good appearance and this suggested that a conventional sex role broke down. Secondly, men began to explore for their own identity escaping from traditionally standardized masculinity that they had been forced to follow.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.82-99
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics that appeared in the fashion and colors of exotic tastes used by Renoir with a view to re-evaluating his-attitude towards exotic tastes. The methods used in this study were literature research and analysis of visual data from Renoir's works. The results of the study are as follows. Renoir's exotic tastes originated from the material perspective appearing in the fashions and accessories of Algeria, Orient, Spain, and Japan. Parisienne Odalisque Lise in Harem-style, Jeanne Samari in parisienne fashion holding a Japanese fan, and Gabriel in oriental fashion were portrayed as major muses. The Algerian style consisted of white, yellow or red veils, thobes, loose pants worn in Haik, and burnous. The Oriental-style was composed of harem pants, turbans, hair accessories, ornate zouave jackets, and oriental ornaments. The Spanish-style showed gay ornaments, fitted red or yellow matador costume, red bandannas, black hats, and red dresses, plus Spanish guitars. The Japanese-style consisted of kimonos, accessories such as fans, and backgrounds with interior articles such as vases, wall picture frames, and folding screens. The exotic fashion colors were red, yellow and white. Renoir expressed the works with his delicate skills and sense of craftsmanship, and he even added creative design portrayals sometimes. He selected fashions and accessories of exotic tastes as objects and expressed the objects with materials and colors reflecting regional characteristics as such, he can be regarded as an artist wed to who fashions of exotic tastes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.188-203
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• 2010

This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women's dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the $19^{th}$ century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A.line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three-dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women's suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. In the late Victorian age when the hourglass style was in fashion, mantle returned again to plain design emphasizing the details of the shoulders. The results of this study are expected to present motives for the development of contemporary designs, to contribute to the new recognition of the value of mantles, and to open a new research area of clothing history.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.131-144
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyse the structure and contents of clothing construction field in the middle-school textbook of technology and home economics with curriculum revised in 2007. 10 kinds of textbooks certified by Ministry of Education, Science and Technology in 2010 were selected and home economics field in them was the subject of this study with the external characteristics such as textbook system, instruction area and contents included. This study was content analysis-oriented and descriptive with data calculated by frequency and percentage. The findings are as follows. In 'Reality of Home-Life', food life area showed highest as 34.4% followed by clothing life(28.7%) and dwelling life(28.7%). The portion of present teachers in writing staffs was highest while there was no textbook where professors of each field were included in writing staffs. The contents of costume society, clothes material, clothes management from section 'Choice and Management of Clothes' in the chapter 'Family Life' and clothing construction from the section 'Making and Modifying Clothes' of the chapter 'Reality of Home-Life' were analysed in this study. Clothing construction-related fields were suggested separately by method of measurement, construction theory, drafting theory, drafting an original form, fabric trimming, utilization of the original form, length measure, cloth cutting, hand stitching, how to use a sewing machine, basting and correction, needlework process, completion, and evaluation. The contents of the unit 'Making Shorts' were about clothing construction theory, human body measurement, drafting an original form, process of making shorts and activity/research/experience. The contents of the unit 'Wearing Clothes after Fixing' in clothing construction-related field were about how to fix and recycling.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.57 no.3
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• pp.395-406
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• 2019

This study examined what meaning East Asian women showed in their costume history through a discourse of hair adornments such as wigs and that Gache was not just a luxury decoration. In addition, we examined Gache hair trends with Eonjeun-meori (braid wraps around the entire head) in the Joseon dynasty (Korea), Gigye(旗?) hair in the Quing dynasty (China) and Mage(?) hair in the Edo period (Japan) during the $18^{th}$ and $19^{th}$ centuries. The significance of the phenomenon of East Asian Gache culture in the $18^{th}$ and $19^{th}$ centuries was analyzed from the internal desires of women. The details are as follows. First, the magnification by the hair decoration was identified with self-authority and used as a sign to express self-respect or a desire for self-esteem. The extended Gache was an external body extension to raise self-authority and increase activeness. Second, self-satisfaction through showing off was associated with a women's search for identity. There was excessive consumption to boast status, wealth and femininity, but the mania continued because women obtained psychological satisfaction by feeling that their sacrifices for the Confucian order were compensated. Third, the frenzy of Gache was accepted as a way for women to resist social regulations and find themselves as main participants in social activities. Showing their appearance in East Asian Gache culture was a way of inner self-searching and a process for women to find themselves as a social entity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.131-148
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• 2024

Among the various decorative techniques in fashion design, this study is to study the decorative effect of the aesthetic finishing technique on fabric. Despite the recent expansion of the use of decorative techniques by aesthetic finishing of fabrics, most of the studies have focused on one or partial techniques, and there has been no part on the use of broad techniques or the application of overall design. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to collect the expression techniques of aesthetic finishing and its fashion cases that have been sporadically performed by examining the decorative techniques of fabric aesthetic finishing as a whole, and to provide practical data, help design thinking, and further contribute to the development of higher value-added products. To this end, this study was conducted in parallel with theoretical consideration and empirical research. First, through the analysis of decorative images and fashion cases examined based on theoretical considerations, six creative costumes were planned and produced by reorganizing them according to the flow of modern fashion using a design concept. As a result, it was confirmed that each aesthetic finishing technique is an effective decorative technique that is applied and harmonized to a part or all of the costume to create a new and unique surface effect and formative beauty, and to increase strong visual effects and luxury. Therefore, through this study, it is expected that it will help satisfy the aesthetic sense of consumers seeking high-end and individualization in the future. Therefore, in future research, it is necessary to expand and deal with the aesthetic finishing of fabrics in more depth, and it is expected that multifaceted research and development will continue.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.261-274
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• 1996

In the present age dominate by both cer-taingty of 1% and uncertainty of 99% 'Fuzzy thinking' of Bart Kosko that is the way to solve the problems by the scientific way through a worldview of Buddhism or Taoism greatly prevails around the world over 'Lateral greatly prevails around the world over 'Lateral thinking' and the authenticity or the right and-wrong of the uncertainty which is the thinking way to find the answer of the problems of illogical way of Edward de Beno against the western vertical thinking were Concurrently fashion designers over the world also adopt the oriental elements. But there exist differences of thoughts between the orient and the occident. And they have dif-ferent thinking way of aestheticism and references of the value on the beauty. Not only beauty but the view through the mind as intuitional thought in which not only the rec-ognition of sense but also the rationalism and the naturalness play key role. The aesthetic sense in the orient contains both the truth and virtue. 2) The beauty of the mean It's from the thought of neutralization of Confucius. The mean or moderation state which in harmony with ethical virtue and aes-thetic beauty is the ideal and is the ultimate. Therefore the thought of Confucian is the creativity in which the balance and the har-mony is most important. Fashion design is also one of the representation of the mean because the spirit of the designer is harmonized for-mlessly with the object of the model of the fashion design. 2) The beauty of skillfulness It indicates the Taoism of Lao-tzu and Chuangtzu. It takes a super-artistic declar-ation that human can feel and recognize the color of colorlessness the sound of sound-lessness and the taste of tastelessness. The thought of arts affected by Taoism is 'ad-vanced age' called the beauty of skillfulness. The view of arts of lao-tzu takes the beauty of cosmos and the nature as a standard. Es-pecially the beauty of inactivity is recognized by the linkage between the beauty and the ugliness. And these things appear in fashion design as a design element such as humor or exaggeration. 3) The beauty of non-dualism It is thought of Buddhism that all evil passions of worry occur form the opposition in dualism. Finally this thought leads to that everything is consistent and truth is only one from the point of view that virtue and vice has on linkage that is 'no virtues no vices' and 'one with two, two, with one, one is not two' A big tendency like this became the root forma-tion of the thought of the oriental arts. 3. Characteristics of the oriental aesthetic sense on the present fashion design 1) The formation of the fashion design on the oriental elements In the picture-incantation which was a representation of an era when the thought of 'cosmic dual forces' dominated the basic polygons of 'a circle square triangle' means both 'one two three' and 'the negative positive mean' of cosmic elements. From this point of view the was of planner cutting in the Orient is dif-ferent from that of the Occidental which is in three-dimensional. The planner polygon type of the cut-pieces comes to have the meaning of the three-dimension when they consist of a suit that has the combination of each cut-piece. This shows the consistency with the principle of cosmos creation of Taoism that one is two two is three and three is every-thing. 2) The coloring and the symbolic represen-tation of the fashion design on the orien-tal elements The sense on the colors in the Orient from the thought of 'the cosmic dual forces and the five elements' is not the experi-enced from the knowledge but contains the consideration of philosophy Five-primary-color representing compass directions Blue(East) Red(South) Yellow(Center) White (West) and Black (North) is called ' the posi-tive' for this five-primary-color secondary-color which comes from the compound of the primary colors is called 'the negative' The thought of 'the cosmic dual forces and the five elements' is also an theory containing the natural order of the cos-mos and this shows the perceptional differ-ence that they are not conceptual but to be recognized and fell directly. A thought of Buddhism which is 'Colors are colorlessness and Clolorlessness are color's proves that. 3) The pattern and symbolic representation of the fashion design on the oriental elements The pattern as a visual style is a figure of symbolic representation which adopt the mental and physical world of human and are the compo-sition of artistic revelation of the human nature and the religous thought of incantation. Es-pecially the symbolic representation of the oriental thought of Confusion. Buddhism and Taoism There are patterns such as plants aminals the oriental four gods and geometry. From the above it's the time toward the 21'th century when the world is constructing one global area and one historical zone. And the exotic mood of the Orient represented in the fashion which doesn't make the common feeling in general does not cease to develop only to express the visual modeling but also adopts the thought religion and the art which are the root of the Orientail and contains inherent willing of modeling.