• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.32
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• pp.427-463
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• 2016

This article deals with five main theories about the origin of Yeonwahdae(蓮花臺), a Korean court dance(jeongjae; 呈才) and its transmission process through the age from Chinese Dang(唐) and Song(宋) to Goryo(高麗) and Joseon(朝鮮) in Korea. As a result, it was found that there was a significant difference between Chinese Chaj-u(?枝舞) dance and Korean Yeonwahdae, and furthermore there was an enormous change as it came to Joseon period in the number of performer, costume and music. Therefore, it is seriously necessary to select, restore the main version of Yeonwahdae in each period, and to make an effort to create new version of Yeonwahdae that reflects the spirit and taste of our time. Besides, it is important to inherit the inner spirit of Yeonwahdae as well as its outer appearance. Shortly, the main purpose of Yeonwahdae performance at present should be to reflect the most important, urgent issues of our time thereby to pray the welfare and prosperity of our country.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.193-210
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• 2024

The portrait featuring Jo Ban(1341-1401), a scholar-official from the late Goryeo and early Joseon period, and his wife is the oldest surviving couple portrait in Korea. It is of great value in uncovering the clothing culture of the period given the limited number of historical artifacts and records. This study examines the historical clothing and textile patterns of Jo Ban's wife and reproduces them using 3D fashion design software program CLO. She wears jokduri, chima, and baeja over layers of jeogori, a mixture of traditional Korean and Chinese styles. Her clothing illustrates eight patterns-one flower, five geometric, and two cloud. Records and relics of similar periods show that flower and geometric patterns in her clothing follow the prevailing styles of Goryeo, while the cloud patterns are representative of early Joseon. These details are used to reproduce six different styles of Jo Ban's wife with CLO tools. Various visualizations of textile patterns are applied to materials, generating a more realistic look than her existing 3D character created with the portrait. Results of this study are expected to help promote the use of Goryeo clothing and patterns in numerous designs and enhance intuitive understanding of Goryeo clothing based on 3D visualization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.177-194
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• 1990

Koh(袴) was a type of dress worn on the lower part of the body which was commonly used in the Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of nomadism or hunting. The origin of the Koh which appeared in the area would be found from the trousers of the Huns who influenced in the Northeast Asia, and became in the part of the Scythian culture. The Scythians are the nomadizing race inhabited in the Northern Caucasas on the wast of the Black Sea and influenced on the inland Eurasian steppe as the first typical horse-riding race. The objectives of Koh which had been worn in the Scythian, Mongolia, Korea as well as Japan as a part of Dongho dress and ornaments and to contemplate the transmission process by cultural exchange among different races for the period from 4th century to 7th century. 1. The Origination of the Koh The Koh was originated by the environmental factor to protect the cold in the North but also from the heat in the South, and was changed and developed as gradually satisfying to the needs of the times. In the Northeast Asia the Koh was in the class of the Northern Chinese garment, and was used widely by the horse riding Scythians who moved widely from the Eurasian inland to Japan. The oldest original which could reflect the type of the Northern clothes was a pair of trousers discovered in the Huns remains of Noin Ula. This showed the exact form of hunting clothes and had a similar form with the Korean female tro-users. Since the same form of trousers drawn on the wall painting of which was excavated 4-5th century ancient Koguryo(高句麗) tomb was the same form the trousers of Noin Ula seemed to be the original form of Koh in the Northeast Asia. 2. The Chinese Trousers It was the time of the King Mooryung(武靈王) in the Cho(趙) Dynasty B.C. 3th century that the trousers used regularly in China. However, the Koh had been used as undergarment which functioned for the protection of the cold not the horseriding garment. The trousers seemed to be not very obviously shown off since the Poh (袍) was long, but mainly used by the people from lower class. As people learned the adapted the trousers. It was essential for the times of war and quarrel. The king himself started wearing the Koh. The Chinese trousers were influenced by the Huns, the Northern clothes of the Scythian culture, and similar to the Korean clothes. 3. The Korean Trousers Korean was a race bared from the Eastern foreign group. It was obvious that the clothes was Baji-Jeogori(바지 저고리), the garment of the Northern people. This had the same form of the Scythian dress and ornaments which was excavated from the Mongolian Noin Ula. The Scythian dress and ornaments were influenced from the Ancient West Asia Empire and transmitted to the Northeast Koguryu by the horseriding Scythian. The trousers were kept in the traditional style by the common people in Korea were transmitted to Japan which were for behind in cultural aspect, as well as got used to the Chinese as the efficient clothes though active cultural exchange. 4. The Japanese Trousers The ancient Japanese clothes were influenced by the Southern factor but not the form of the Koh. As the Korean people group was moving towards Japan and conquer the Japanese in the 4-5th century, however, North Altaic culture was formed and at the same time the clothes were also developed. The most influenced clothes at this time were those of Baekge(百濟) and the trousers form called Euigon became the main form. Because of the climatic regional factor, it was tied not at the ankle but under the knee. From the view the ancient Japanese clothes disappeard about that time, it could be due to the conquest of the culturally superior race but not the transmission of the culture. In the latest 7th century both the Chinese and Japanese dress forms were present, but the Dongho(東胡) dress and its ornament from Korea was still the basic of the Japanese dress form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.12
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• pp.1397-1404
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• 2003

2002년 월드컵 전야제에서는 한국문화를 소개해 세계인의 환호를 받았는데 그 중에는 칠석동 민속축제인 고싸움놀이가 펼쳐졌다. 칠석동 민속축제는 일반 서민복식의 전통복 형태를 보여주는 복식(服飾)을 실제 착용하고 축제를 행하고 있으므로, 점차 사라져 가는 전통복식을 놀이문화를 통해 직접 확인할 수 있다는 점에서 연구가치를 갖는다. 본 연구의 목적은 국제화 시대에 우리 전통문화에 대한 정체성 확립을 위해 시대적 변화에 따라 변해 가는 민속복식을 무형문화재로 지정되어 있는 칠석동 고싸움놀이를 중심으로 시대적 흐름을 통한 고싸움놀이의 전수과정에서 형성되어 온 민속축제복식의 구성과 특성을 살펴보는데 있다. 연구방법은 광주지역인 광산구 칠석동 마을을 중심으로 자료조사와 현장조사를 병행하였다. 자료조사는 민속에 관련된 전공서적과 무형문화재 조사보고서, 행사팜플렛 등을 참고하였고, 현장조사는 고싸움 축제에 참가하여 복식 전반에 대한사진촬영과 마을축제 참여하는 마을사람들을 중심으로 축제복식에 관한 면담조사를 하였다. 칠석동 고싸움 축제복식은 행사가 진행되는 내용에 따라 크게 4가지로 분류할 수 있는데 본격적인 고싸움이 시작되기 전날 밤에 당산나무에 제를 지내는 당산제 복식, 마을의 평안과 고싸움의 흥을 돋우기 위한 농악복식, 고싸움이 시작되기 전에 아낙네들이 손과 손을 맞잡고 둥글게 돌며 화합을 다짐하는 강강수월래 복식, 한해 풍년을 기원하는 고싸움복식이 있다. 칠석동 고싸움 축제복식의 특성을 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 구성면에서는 농경제의(農耕祭衣)와 안택축원(安宅祝願的)을 기원하는 민속놀이축제복식으로 일상생활에 착용하는 복식을 이용한 농경 의례복의 다(多)기능성이 강조된 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 색상은 우리조상의 백의(白衣)의 상징인 일상복인 백색 위에 오방색을 사용하여 화려하고도 강렬한 원색의 색상조화가 특징적으로 나타났다. 셋째, 형태면에서는 양쪽어깨와 허리선의 면 분할이나 비례를 통해 허리부분의 동작에 따른 유동적인 선이 부각되고 있다. 특히, 평면구성의 단조로움은 흔들리는 몸동작에 따른 고름의 율동미와 축제복식의 착장 방법에 따른 한국복식의 형태미를 보여주었다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.5 s.142
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• pp.680-691
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of color preference of young women living in Seoul, to provide materials which is useful for setting up the color plan for a better costume, and to suggest new information in the apparel study. This study was done on the basis of color preference only by regional characteristics and the range of this study restricted on young women' clothes. The subjects were 1,100 in 1998, 1,393 young women in 2004. They were photographed in the street. The data were analyzed by frequency, percentage and $\chi^2-test$. The results of this study was as follows; The preference of chromatic color and achromatic color, hue and tone, pattern of textiles are different mainly by regional characteristics. 1) In 1998, young women prefered achromatic colors to chromatic colors. and the most preferred achromatic color was black, especially women of YOUNGDUOPO area prefer black. But, in 2004, young women preferred chromatic colors to achromatic colors and the most preferred achromatic color was white in the all areas. 2) Analysis of hue shows that in 1998, blue is most preferred color in the all areas by young women. But, in 2004, the most preferred color was different depending on the areas 3) Analysis of tone shows that in 1998, vivid, pale, dark tones are commonly preferred by young women. However, APGUJUNG area have specially inclination, they prefer vivid, pale and light tone. In 2004 year, pale, vivid and bright tones are most preferred tones in the all areas. 4) Analysis of pattern of textiles shows that, pattern textiles were preferred by young women of APGUJUNGDONG area in 1998 and YOUNGDUOPO area in 2004. The most preferred. pattern for young women in all area was a stripe pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.155-169
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary (원씨물어)$\lrcorner$. This book is a novel written by a Japanese sextant worked in the Royal Court around the year 1010. In this book, about 110 different kinds of Garments, Ornaments, Colors and Materials were mentioned. The results of this paper were as follows. 1. About the Garments 8f Ornaments ; All the Clothing and Textiles in $\ulcorner$Genjimonkatary$\lrcorner$ were reflections of the reality of that time. In the Clothing, Color, Textile and even Hair style, the Symbol of Buddism appeared. Many technical methods were developed in the garment shaping, dyeng and wearing methods. 2. About the Colors Sf Dyes; There were many kinds of Color SE Dyes described in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary$\lrcorner$. This means color was developed more than other elements in that period. Among them, gray and black colors were mentioned, this means Buddist Color was fashioned in that period. $\ulcorner$Kasaneno-irome (강색목)$\lrcorner$ was changed from Ungan (운간) that had been origined of China and Korea. But it became one of the Japanese Costume. That have some reasons, for instance, high materials could not be imported from other countris and many people were controlled by the Taboo of clothing (금제) so they wanted the better method, such as Kasaneno-irome. Many kinds of colors'name was origined from flowers and plants. It also represented the seasons. Yurusi-iro (청색) was meaning the permitable color to the popular people. Without the head word, Deep Color' and 'Pale Color' meant those things of the purple and red. 3. About the Materials IE Patterns : The materials imported from other country, China and Korea, were good in quality, but those produced in Japan were not good. There were many kinds of dyeing method, especially Srijome (신염) was very special and nice method in that period.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.1 s.92
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• pp.31-36
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• 2007

There are several factors in the degradation of textiles. The crucial factors in textile weakening are humidity, dust, smoke, sunlight, microorganisms and so on. Especially silk fabrics are more susceptible to microorganisms than other fabrics, because they are mainly consisted of proteins. In this study, we investigated the activities for degrading casein and silk fibers with 2 strains, Bacillus cereus TX1 and Pseudomonas fluorescens TX 2, isolated from domestic museums. They were compared to those of standard control strains, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus aureus, usually used for the antibiotic test of fabrics. The caseinolytic activities of K. pneumoniae and S. aureus were higher than those of isolated strains. But in the cases of silk fiber degrading, B. cereus TX 1 showed the highest activity on both silk 1 and silk 2. Therefore, caseinolytic activities were not coincident with the activity to degrade silk fibers. All strains degraded silk 1(strength retention 100%) better than silk 2(strength retention 50%). It means that bacteria mainly participate in the early stage of degrading silk fabrics, but as time goes by, the importance of bacteria for degrading silk fabrics would decreased. Even though the importance of bacteria may decrease, controlling bacterial activity is necessary to preserve historic silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.4 s.10
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• pp.63-74
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to investigate unique field of formative characteristics using copper wire, the present thesis aims at developing concept of hair art as a creative way, and recognizing the formative characteristics of copper wire as analyze and arrange the concept of hair art, formative, a way of practical application, material aspect, through literature, academic journals, photo data, and researched about prior piece, for example, architecture and costume with hair art, and then pieces of hair art were made. Influenced by the theory, applied the social phenomenon and the formative principles, produced the seven pieces which includes flying, composure, yahoo, harmony, balance, way, spring etc. The results of this research are outlined below. Firstly, It showed that the copper wire can express the mysterious and beautiful formative world, and it could know the possibility of design. Secondly, formative activity using copper wire can differ according to approach and interpretation, and it can be a works with aesthetic value. Thirdly, hair could be express the art of the three-dimensional forms which constitute the mixture of line, surface and space. Fourthly, the handicraft including beading, pleat, piping, rolling that used for works are proper to express the unique formative and the rich colors, and it can also express the transparency. So it showed that copper wire is a proper materials. So, hair art has enlarged the fields with development of technique, and changed to recognition of the hair art, and opened up a new field. Hair art will be positive fields to maximize the possibility, and not only the beauty artist but also the public will be communicate each other.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 1976

In this study several kinds of spun silk yarn-synthetic filament compounded yarn was manufactured, and several fabrics woven from above mentioned silk compound yarn for evaluation of serviceability as clothing materials. The following results were obtained: 1. Degumming agents are in the order of sodium silicate, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbornate, soap and water. 2. When the concentration of sodium hydroxide is exceeded 3%, degradation of floss silk property is resulted because of excessive dissolving out of silk protein. 3. Degumming effect is much improved by concentration of degumming agent and less by its treating time. 4. Simultaneous application of more the 2 kinds of degumming agent is desirable for improvement of floss silk. 5. Application of natural organic acid brings very good results in keeping original scooping and color of the silk. 6. Load and elongation it increased by compound with synthetic filament yarn. 7. Even the evenness of compound yarn is largely dependent on the quality of floss silk and extent of degumming, the C.V.% of silk compound yarn in the experiment was 8-12%. 8. Single bath dyeing technique was impossible for their cloth, and dyeing was performed in 2 bath system separately for silk and synthetic fiber. 9. Shrinkage ratio due to the dyeing of fabric was 23% in case of polyester and spun silk fabric. 10. The final woven cloth can be applicable to (a) Blouse in care of thin cloth (compound silk fabric) (b) Korean costume for women in case of thick cloth. (compound hand spun silk fabric)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.936-953
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• 2016

This article surveys the meaning and history of fashion museum exhibitions to understand the characteristics that make a fashion museum exhibition special. It explores dress museology and fashion museology in theory, and practice across a range of international case studies that include the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Mode Museum in Antwerp, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In particular, it examines how curatorial intervention has developed the interpretation and display techniques of dress within the context of the museum or gallery as well as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences. For a specific case study, we review the types and roles of fashion exhibitions organized by the Simone Handbag Museum, Seoul. It is the first handbag-centered fashion museum in the world as well as one of the most representative local fashion museums. The museum collection includes fashionable western handbags from rare specimens of the $15^{th}$ century to the latest bags of the $21^{st}$ century, and presents a history of changing fashion cycles and the major socio-cultural shifts that have profoundly affected women's lives in public spaces. Exhibitions show the perspective to a range of curatorial methodologies and show the innovative approaches towards collections and displays with broader fashion issues such as gender, materialism and technology. The article is to help encourage further scholar discourse between fashion museum exhibitions and fashion museology.