• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1728-1737
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• 2001

1760년대 말의 미국문화는 전통적인 가치관에 반발하는 청년문화운동의 화산으로 특징지을 수 있는데 이러한 사회적인 변화는 복식에 새롭고 혁신적인 스타일을 가져오게 되는 요인이 되었다. 특히 이 시기의 미국의 청년층에 의해 일어난 반문화적인 현상으로 인식되어 온 동앙문화의 도입은 미국의 여성복식에 tie-dyeing(홀치기염)패션의 출현으로 복식에 반영되었다. 이에, 본 연구는 지금까지 복식 학자들에 의한 단편적인 추론으로만 설명되어 왔던 1960년대 말 미국여성복식에 나타난 홀치기염 패션의 특성에 관하여 문화적인 배경에 관한 고찰과 함께 이 시기에 출판된 정기 간행물을 연구의 일차자료로 이용하여 실증적으로 분석하는 데 그 목적이 있다. 연구방법으로는 1955년부터 1975년 사이에 출판된 Vogue와 Mademoiselle 잡지에 실린 홀치기염 패션 사진자료를 내용분석법을 이용하여 수집하여 의류품목, 소재, 기법, 디자이너 및 제조업 체에 관한 내용으로 나누어 분석하였다. 연구 결과, 두 종류의 잡지 모두에서 다양한 소재로 만들어진 여러 의류품목에 각종 기법으로 적용되었던 홀치기염 패션이 이 시기에 나타나, 청년층에서 시작되었던 이 패션이 미국의 대중 및 상류층의 복식에도 확산되었음이 밝혀졌다. 나아가 홀치기염 패션스타일이 가장 많이 보여졌던 1969년에서 1971년 사이의 기간은 청년층의 반문화적 현상이 절정을 이루었던 시기와 일치하고 있어서 이러한 급진적인 사회 현상이 그대로 패션에도 반영되고 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.101-112
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• 2015

Because young men's slacks are becoming more slim-fitting today, this study attempts to identify room for improvement by comparing and analyzing the patterns of men's slacks in the literature and those of manufacturers. Selected for the study are two patterns from the literature and one from manufacturers (Slacks A, B, C); those from studies are slim silhouette pants with no tucking around the waist at the front. Subjects for the Fit tests and the pattern designs were men in their twenties with average body shapes in accordance with the figures in Size Korea 2010. Pants were made from muslin fabric and the Fit tests were carried out with three subjects and a panel of five experts to evaluate comfort and appearance. The analysis of the patterns revealed that Slacks A were the longest followed by C and then B. Slacks C had the most girth ease, and Slacks B were the slimmest in both length and girth. Movement tests showed Slacks A to be the most comfortable followed by B and then C. The appearance test found that Slacks B were the most attractive, followed by A, and then C. The fits at the front, back and sides of all three pants were more or less the same. We suggest that more studies be done on pants patterns adjusting them for proper ease and using elastic fabric in order to maintain the slim fit and also to be comfortable to wear.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.227-236
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• 2018

As consciousness of safety becomes an important social issue, the demand for protective clothing is increasing. Conventional flame-retardant cotton working wear has low durability, and working wear with m-aramid fibers are stiff, heavy, less permeable, and expensive. In this study, recycled m-aramid and cotton have been blended to produce woven fabric of different compositions to enhance high performance and comfort to solve aforementioned problems. The fabrics were analyzed according to constituents and various structural factors. Mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB system. The measured thermal properties are TGA, $Q_{max}$, TPP and RPP. Fabric with polyurethane yarn covered by m-aramid/cotton spun yarn is observed to have good wearability. The fabric of open end spun yarn showed more stiffness than that of ring spun yarn. The sample with the high count of yarn has more smooth surface. In addition, high m-aramid content fabric is considered to have relatively high stiffness when using as clothing. In TGA the fabric with higher m-aramid content showed more stable decomposition behavior. The fabric having rough surface showed lower heat transfer properties in $Q_{max}$. The influence of the fabric thickness was important in convection and radiant heat test.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.459-473
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• 2019

This study analyzes a new aesthetic value of fashion design utilizing media art technology based on Marshall McLuhan's media theory, vitalize a creative fashion design by applying media art technology into traditional fashion design and discover the possibility of various formative expressions. The result of the analysis under the three criterion extracted through the examination of other art genre such as dance, music, architecture and painting are as follows. First, new concept clothing was designed in the way of combining science and technology with existing costume designs. Second, applying technology based media art images on clothes has been noticeably effected by changes to clothing surfaces. Third, fashion design using technology based media art stimulates the five senses and creates new communication structures. In conclusion, this study reveals that fashion design utilizing technology based media art, an innovative medium for future fashion development in digital society, has expanded the boundaries of fashion design beyond limits and contributed to diversity in creative fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.5
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• pp.856-877
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• 2020

This study examines how class differences are expressed through costumes based on the costumes of characters in Bong Joon-Ho's film . Based on Video on Demand (VOD), the main situations in which characters' costumes change in the play were captured and used as analysis data. Colors, textures, and color symbol were analyzed to find the formative properties shown in the characters' costumes. The results are as follows. The home wear of Kim's family were unsuitable for the top and bottom, faded clothes, and the vague boundary between outdoor and indoor clothes appeared. In comparison, Park's family's home wear was featured a modern and elegant design, a clear distinction that suited purpose and situation. Analysis of street wear showed that the Kim's family had a big difference before and after getting a job, and Park's family wore different costumes for the purpose of going out. Social class expressed in the film costumes were shown to have the characteristics of intrinsic class invariance, temporary class changes, differences in class expression by age, and differences in costume choice by class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.244-255
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• 2023

Patterns abstractly depicting flowing water with Chinese characters such as gong, wan(man), or wang continued endlessly and curved water patterns began appearing on textiles during the Song Dynasty. Though Song curved water patterns encompassed poetic sentiments such as "falling flowers and flowing water," the meaning faded with time, and these patterns were depicted in backgrounds with flowers added to brocade (Geum-sang-cheom-hwa). During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, combinations of diverse patterns, including flowers, butterflies, dragons, and auspicious treasures became fashionable, rather than the gong- and wan-shaped curved water patterns. Likewise, during the Joseon Dynasty, curved water patterns were preferred as background rather than as primary patterns. They were overlaid with flowers and clouds. The overlaid flower patterns included four-season flower patterns (17th-18th centuries), round flower patterns (19th century), and large flower patterns (20th century), which were identical to flower patterns fashionable at the time and arranged at intervals on complex curved water pattern backgrounds. In contrast, simple Ruyi types were more numerous than the four-Ruyi types fashionable at the time with regard to cloud patterns. Added here were Taiji (great ultimate symbol) or crane patterns, thus seeking to depict diverse auspicious Ruyi such as wish fulfillment and longevity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.154-160
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• 2006

This study examines the service satisfaction rate on high school students(637) in order to provide the basic data for marketing direction by analyzing the importance and satisfaction rate of the service quality. In IPA for the service quality, as the following properties are high in expectation as well as satisfaction they needed to maintain. They are the taste, scent, saltiness, proper temperature of the food, the quantity main food, nutritional value, the degree of freshness, and the smell of dining room. The following properties need the excessive efforts. They are the number of side dishes, eating place, the shape and material quality of dish, the costume of dining workers. As the following showed low importance degrees as well as satisfaction degrees, they don't need concentrated efforts. They are the harmony of color and shape, the interior design of the dining room, the arrangement of tables and chairs, the atmosphere of dining room, and the effect of nutrition instruction. As the education of nutrition is compulsory among the school group meal, the analysis based on the response of questioned students is supposed to be more careful. The items showing low satisfaction degrees while high importance degrees are considered to make an operational plans for the improvement through a variety of menu, the quality of food, the quantity for side-dishes, health control, the cleanness of dishes, the kindness of cooks, the performance of nutritionists, the charge of school meal, and meal time.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.73-80
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• 2010

This research examined the design characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet, a female fashion designer who left an enormous legacy and made a great contribution to the high added-value fashion industry. Her techniques can be dividing in to three types: the bias cutting, the design by geometrical methods, and the classical style of ancient Greek clothing. This research also intended to study the design cases in which Vionnet's drapery images are applied to modern fashion, mainly the haute couture works that have appeared at Dior collections since 2000. In terms of the characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet's design, First, she produced the best achievement in dress and ornament history by developing a new technique called bias cutting. Second, her work was groundbreaking because it changed the previously planar approach to the female body into a solid conception by cutting and connecting geometrical pieces in the form of quadrangle, triangle, and a quarter-circle. As a result, her works depicted feminine beauty to the fullest extent through the combination of the human body, excellent materials, and the most sophisticated technology and personal skill. Third, her approach was a classical style tinged with the Greek costume image. With this style, which was born by reinterpreting the key tone of the Greek epoch in a modern way, and transcending and even changing tradition, she created a form of beauty that only she could.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.608-615
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability and functional properties of dyed fabric with the extract of Myrica rubra rind. For this purpose, the ultraviolet and visible spectra of the bark extracts were investigated. The dyeing temperature, dyeing time, mordant type, mordanting order, mordant concentration and dyeability were investigated. The color fastness based on washing, dry-cleaning, rubbing and light were evaluated by the types of Myrica rubra rind extract used. In addition, the deodorization and antibacterial activity were measured, and the functionality of the silk fabric dyed with the extract of the Myrica rubra rind was evaluated. The result shows that the color strength of the dye was excellent when the Myrica rubra rind was dyed at $80^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. The mordant dye color strength was high in the order of Fe mordant> Cu mordant> Al mordant. The dyeability of Al and Cu mordant was high during pre-mordanting compared to Fe mordant, and the dyeability of Fe mordant was high during post-mordanting than Cu and Al mordant. The deodorant property of the dyed fabric stained with the Myrica rubra rind extract was 92.4% and that of antibacterial property was 99.9% for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae bacteria respectively.