• Title/Summary/Keyword: Korean costume

Search Result 4,534, Processing Time 0.022 seconds

A Study on the Religious Costume in Korea - Buddhist and Taoist Costume - (한국(韓國) 종교복식(宗敎服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 불교(佛敎)와 도교복식(道敎服飾)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Im, Yeong-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.14
    • /
    • pp.63-73
    • /
    • 1990
  • The thought of three religious, Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism, had been the mainaxis of Korean spirit of the past. This study is centered on Buddhist and Taoist costume. There have been a lot of studies on Korean costume from many viewpoints. However, there have been few approaches to the inner !"ide of it. That is to say, the research on spiritual back-ground or religious correlation has not done yet. And especially, we are wholly lacking the studies on Taoist costume. In this dissertation, I investigate how they had come to wear Buddhist costume and how it trans, on the basis of related documentary records and existing remains. I also inquiry Taoist costume which was worn at Taoist ceremony in our country, with the help of Korean books and documents and of the sources of Packwoonkwan in China. In the case of Topobyunjeung in Korean costume, in particular, we can catch the source of it only after studying the religious side of Taoist costume and Buddhist costume. As revealed in the theory of Topobyunjeung in Ojuyunmoonja-ngsango by Lee, Kyu Kyung, even old masters and great Confucianists could not know whether Topo, the ordinary clothes of the Sadaeboo, originated from Taoist costume or Buddhist costume. There have been many opinions about the origin, but even now it is true that no one has made it clear. Therefore in this dissertatio I demonstrate mainly how Topo and Hakchangeui appeared in Korean costume through Taoist costume. It is said that Taoists, Buddhists, and literary men wore Topo, Chickchul, and Chickshin in Song dynasty of China. Topo was a clerical robe of Taoists and was also an ordinary clothes. Chick-chul was a clerical robe of Buddhists, and Chick-shin was worn by Zen priests in Won dynaty. Over the Po, Buddhist wore a large robe, namely Kasa, and Taoist wore Packhakchang like Wooeui, when they attended at the religious ceremony. And they regarded such manner of dressing as ceremonial full-dress attire. The style of Topo in China was Saryunggyogeo. The is th say that they put the black Yeon along Sajoo, which are Young, Soogoo, Keum, and Keo, and that they wore Sajodae around their waists so as to let the band down in front of them. Our existing type of Topo is that of Chickryung-gyoin. The characteristics of the type are its Koreum hung on the dress, no Yeon along Sajoo, and Soopok at the back of the dress. And when they put on the dress, they wear Saejodae around their waists. These characteristics considered, we can find the source of Topo from the Po of Chickshin among Buddhist costume. Other types of Topo are those that were transformed elegantly according to our national manners and customs in our country. So-called Wooeui in Chiness Taoism is Hakchang. Originally it was made by weaving for of cranes or other feathered birds. Its remarkable feature is the wide sleeves. Later they called such a robe with wide sleeves Hakchang. Our hakchangeui has Yeon along Sajoo and a belt around waist. We can guess that the features of Topo and wide-sleeved Hakchang mingled and turned into Hakchangeui. Or it might also be that Topa worn by Taoist was regarded as Hakchang and Topa which has Yeon along Sajoo was regarded as Hakchangeui in our country. Such type of Hakchang worn by Taoists was well shown in the Buddhist and Taoist paintings among "The Pictures of Hills, Waters, and Folks" in the latter half of the 16th century. In China Hakchang with a belt around waist could not be seen. Comparing our style of Hakchangeui with the Chinese style, we can recognize the former was similar to that of Chinese Topa. From this, we gather that Topa was regarded as Hakchang, Wooeui worn by Taoists, Ascetics and True Men in Korea. Furthermore I also gather that our Hakchangeui, which has Tongjeong, Koreurn and a belt around waist, was a transformed style in our own country. From the above, we can realize that in costume the three religions, Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism, cannot be treated separately although they are different each other in the essential thought. We have to recognize that Korean Costume was established under the closely connected correlation among the religions and that it was transfigured and accepted according to the cultural characteristics. This study is significant in that it is the first attempt to understand Korean costume through the religous approach, which has never been made in our Korean costume studies. We are demanded even more wide and profound investigation on the religious side of costume throughout the general field of costume studies.

  • PDF

The Costume of the Wejung-chuksa period in hanmal (한말 위정척사(衛正斥邪) 사상기의 복식문화 소고)

  • 정혜경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.24
    • /
    • pp.47-58
    • /
    • 1995
  • The Study is to find out the thought of costume of the people who advocated the Wejung-chunksa. Conclusions are described as follows 1. The action to boycott western goods was the early response in the Wejung -chuksa Thought. The reason were in fear of ruin in chosun industry and worry about the westernizing the Korean. 2. The people of the Wejung-chuksa had the conservative character in order to maintain the traditional public order and the costume. They thought that costume have a role to distinguish between man and woman , the rich and the poor and so on. Therefore acceptance the wastern constume style meant that the Korean became a savage. So that they rejected the King's order about the dress-system reformation in 1884, 1895. That pointed that their ultimate purpose was to keep the traditional rule. 3. In appearance the purpose of the short-hair law was good for health. But it meant to destory the traditional order and to symbolize the civilization . Especially the short -hair in the people of Wejung-chuksa meant the destruction of the traditional rule and casting away the courtesy. Therefore they wanted to keep the value of the traditional costume.

  • PDF

The Study of Costume Exhibition in Architectural Structures Heritage - Focused on Seoul, Incheon, Gyonggi-do - (유적건조물 문화재 내의 복식 전시물에 대한 연구 - 서울, 인천, 경기도를 중심으로 -)

  • Kwon, Soo-Hyun;Kang, Soon-Che
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.62 no.6
    • /
    • pp.182-199
    • /
    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the actual status of costume exhibitions displayed in architectural structures heritage today to examine if they play proper roles as visual materials and suggest the necessity of post-management for comfortable viewing. This is significant in that it makes costume exhibitions function as educational culture contents to let Korean and also foreign viewers know of our costume culture properly. As a research method, the database of the Office of Cultural Properties homepage was used to extract anything related to the lives of figures during the Chosun Dynasty among the architectural structures heritages in Seoul, Incheon, and Gyeonggido. By doing so, the costume exhibitions were able to be examined among them. With field investigation and interviews of related institutions, this study examined the current status of costume exhibitions, planning of exhibitions, and post-management. Also, they found costume exhibitions that were not right for the era, and suggested ways that were more appropriate for them. The results of this study were as follows : First, according to the third selection results, there were only six among 71 places where three districts of the architectural structures heritage were present. This is a very small quantity of places when compared with the total number of architectural structures heritage. Second, as a result of the current condition investigation, the costume exhibition in the Architectural Structures Heritage is not nearly enough for a historical investigation, and almost all polluted costumes were not displayed in suitable environments for an exhibition. Therefore, qualified managers who have expertise in exhibition planning were needed to be trained to do a post-management follow up. Furthermore, it is important to systematically reorganize post-management methods. Third, the two selected places(Haepung-buwongun-yuntaegyeong-jaesi and Sunaedong-gaok) were thought not to be right for the era among the six places with costume exhibitions, and suggestions such as flat-drawing and illustration were made.

A Consideration on the Change of Korean Musical and the Characteristic of Musical Costume (한국 뮤지컬의 변천과 뮤지컬 의상의 특성에 관한 고찰)

  • Kim, Hee-Jung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
    • /
    • v.18 no.6
    • /
    • pp.1112-1128
    • /
    • 2010
  • This study aims to know the trace of Korean musical, consider musical depending on its type, arrange characteristic of musical costume and find out the developmental direction of Korean musical costume with potentials as a culture industry. For study method, the data were collected from thesis, academic journal, book and internet web-site concerning musical costume, literatures were considered and performance costume photos, which were captured via musical performance site, were analyzed. The history of Korean modern-day musical is regarded as starting with (1966) in the full scale. Although foreign musical was imitated in 1970s~1980s, it may be called the growth period of Korean musical because the period showed the commercial possibility. Since 1990s, large-scaled musical securing good work and popularity was popular. In 2000s, musical industry was abundant quantitatively and qualitatively as investment or popularity was significantly expanded. The type of Korean musical are divided to opera musical of European, Broadway musical of American and creative musical of Korean. The costumes used in opera musical of European and Broadway musical of American are borrowed from original works through license or were manufactured in Korea by referring to the costumes of original works and using similar materials or fabrics. The costumes used in creative musical of Korea are designed by either domestic or foreign designers and produced in Korea.

A Study on the Costume of Loulan - Centered Around Interrelationship with Ancient Korean Costume - (누란(樓蘭) 복식 연구 - 고대 한국복식과의 상관관계를 중심으로 -)

  • Chae, Keum-Seok;Kim, Eun-Kyoung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
    • /
    • v.18 no.3
    • /
    • pp.197-211
    • /
    • 2016
  • Loulan was an ancient kingdom located on the northeast of the Taklamakan Desert, a diverging point between the north and south of Silk Road, on the east of the current Turpan, from the 2nd century BC and the 7th century A.D, absorbing and propagating culture of both sides through active trade. Meanwhile, as many previous research investigations suggest the early trade between Korea and the countries bordering on Western China, characteristics of Loulan costume have been found to have similarity to those of ancient Korean costume. Also, it can be compared to costume in other surrounding regions. Therefore, it is a highly valuable region in researching ancient costume. This study examined the historical background of Loulan and its relationship with ancient Korea, analyzed the clothes found in historic sites of Louland and Niya, and compared costume elements of Loulan and those of Korea. The result of the study shows that first, the Loulan Jeogori was based on the Jikryeonggyoim, with Chaksu, narrow sleeves and the length coming between below the chest and above the bottom, and the line decoration and waist belt were very similar to Korean costumes, as well as the Banryeong, curved collar and Bansu, short sleeves. Second, the types of pants included Gunggo, characterized by closed bottom and many creases, and Daegugo, wide-leg trousers, which are very similar in shape to the Korean Shilla lay sculpture, Stele To Martyr Yi Ch'a-don, Yangjikgongdo and Wangheedo. Third, in accessories as well, the Jowu stuck on the Gwanmo is similar in the shapes to Korean costume.

  • PDF

A Study on Symbolism of Shaman's Costume in China - Focusing on Naje, Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong - (중국 무속복식의 상징성에 관한 연구 - 귀주성 덕강현 나제를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Eun-Jung;Kim, Cho-Young;Zhang, Quo Qiang
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
    • /
    • v.17 no.2
    • /
    • pp.111-124
    • /
    • 2015
  • This study inferred the symbolism of shaman's costume in China from shamanism and types of shaman's costume in Naje, Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong, China through field survey. Shamanism in China has complicated aspects due to negotiations with other culture for a long time while maintaining its own consistency based on ethnicity. Symbolism of shaman's costume in Naje, Guiju-seong, China is observed as follows. First, the shaman's costume in China appears differently from every Jangcha in relation to the position of god appearing in Jangcha when Tolosa takes the position of god as a symbol of sex and god. In Naje of China, the most important shaman's costume indicating the position of god has a unique mask for every deity. It communicates that Tolosa wearing a costume appropriate for the god of wine shall become the god in that Jangcha. Second, the shaman's costume in China has something to do with Yin-Yang and the five elements theory of Taoism as a symbol of shamanism visio of the universe and system of reason. Most of Tolosas hosting Naje are men but dress up as women by wearing Nagun looking like a skirt. Nagun is usually red, the color of Yang, which symbolizes that by wearing such costume that takes color of Yang, Tolosa expels an ominous thing by balancing yin and yang and taking god's strong power. Third, Tolosa takes an eight-breadth Nagun, as a symbol of people. An eight-breadth worn by Tolosa in Naje strengthens the spirit of union and fight of the Tujia nationality who live in Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong through folk legends. In this course, a symbolic meaning of the national spirit has been provided on an eight-breadth Nagun, a shaman's costume.

  • PDF

The Aesthetic Values of the Korean Traditional Costume (한국 복식의 미적 가치에 대한 고찰 -조선 복식을 중심으로-)

  • 김윤희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
    • /
    • v.21 no.5
    • /
    • pp.946-955
    • /
    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to present the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume for developing 'Korean' fashion design can be accepted in general in the modern times. For this purpose, documentary studies about the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art and Korean traditional costume were preceded. And the perception of the Korean traditional costume were studied according to Belong's two criteria, body priority/ clothes priority and open/closed. Next, the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume were re-defined. The results can be summarized as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art are the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. As the beauty of nature is the important one, the purity is caused by the love of nature. The pleasantry is as a way of expression. 2) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume through the documentary studies stand for as the beauty of nature, the purity, the beauty of evil's eye, the beauty of symbolism, the beauty of personality, the beauty of tragedy and the beauty of tradition. 3) Korean traditional costume are perceived as clothes priority and open. 4) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume can be re-defined as the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. The beauty of nature comes from the 'natural' look, the exposure of the fabric as itself and the organic lines of the Korean traditional costume. The purity comes from the geometrical squared clothing form of Korean traditional costume which doesn't revive the human body form. The Pleasantry is seen the colors and motifs of costumes that have the human's hope and incantation and the exaggeration and distortion of human body form.

  • PDF

A Study on Class Representation in Korean and Western Costume (우리나라와 서양 복식에 나타난 계층표식에 관한 연구)

  • 권현주;이순홍
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.50 no.4
    • /
    • pp.147-164
    • /
    • 2000
  • This thesis examines the origin, the change and the symbolic meanings of class representation, and offers a comparative study on the differences of class representation in the history of Korean and western costume on the basis of class representation methods and types shown from ancient times to 18C. In both eastern and western costume, the differences in status are commonly represented in the width and length of costume, color, textile, ornamental design, wearing, decoration, etc. The costume of noble class was wide and long, while that of common class was narrow and short so that it could be convenient for them to move around. Especially, from 16C to 18C in the west the costume of noble class was expanded to the extent that it was inconvenient for them to move around not only by skirt swelling by using hoop, but also by pad, ruff, lace, etc. This appears to show that they are not working class. Wearing and decoration of noble class were much more colorful, complicated and varied, while those of common class were simple and plain. In the west, the wearing of chiton and toga in Greece and Rome was different depending on social status. More specific look at the differences in class representation shown in the eastern and western costume reveals that the higher the rank, the more the women in both Gothic and Chosun period covered the body, thereby representing rank. In 18C, the women in both Rococo and Chosun period commonly showed excessive decoration and lavishness on their hair, and in this period the width of skirt was also commonly expanded to the longest extent, with a slight difference put aside.

  • PDF

The Comparison of Cultural Color in Traditional Performance of Korea and Japan (한.일 전통극의 색채문화 비교)

  • Kim, Ji-Eon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
    • /
    • v.32 no.10
    • /
    • pp.1629-1639
    • /
    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to research the similarity and difference of color application in the culture of Korea and Japan. The subject of this research is the costume color of Changgeuk and Kabuki. This survey analyzes Munsell's 3 attributes(Hue, Value, Chroma), tone, and 3D color analysis by extracted color data. And representative color according to Obangsaek is proposed. The results of this study are as follows: 1. High chroma red in Kabuki costume is more used as symbolic color(passion and luxurious) in order to show character's personality than that in Changguek costume. 2. Low chroma YR color(no-dyeing color) in Changgeuk costume much more used because of Korean white robe preference and eco-friendly thinking. But high chroma yellow is restrictive color for symbolic color of emperor in Korea and Japan. 3. Blue is most frequently used in both costumes because blue is encouraging color by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine. 4. White in Korean Changguek costume is more used for white robe preference thinking, but black in Kabuki costume is much more used for symbol of power in Japan. The similarity of Korean and Japanese cultural color is to use much Obangsaek, less Ogansaek by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine, but the difference of Korean and Japanese cultural color is to use color differently according to preference thinking system.