• 복식
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• 제52권3호
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• pp.111-122
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• 2002

The study of traditional costume is significant in terms of figuring out of the reality of its originality and enrich the costume culture of today. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics and to contemplate the aesthetic values of the Kokuryo costume. Kokuryo costume were characterized with the simpleness in its clothing constructions. The spaces found on the dresses were emphasized giving a geometric characteristics and abstract images. Many different colors were used for tops, bottoms, and border elements showing value contrast in each parts of dress. Patterns were simplified in a dot or stripe shapes impling a certain symbols. Dot patterns were varied in its shapes. In general. the decorative elements were simple and eliminated. Through the process of investigating these aesthetic characteristics, aesthetic values were found. The aesthetics of nature were favoured and tradition were respected. Religious mind were favoured and progressive spirit were endowed by the Kokuryo people. They have pursued the diversities and many changes in visual forms of dresses which were the manifestations of their esprit.

• 복식
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Kokuryo has been the exchange foreign relationship with the Han dynasty era, from king DaiMuSin 25 years to Bojang 27 years. 2 King of Kokuryo, from The North-Wei-dynasty has been received ceremonial costumes, first-third class of China's official rank. After unification of China, Su, Dang dynasty's envoy and missionary and many commercial men and artist come from China to Kokuryo, therefore, influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peoples costumes, without concern of that one's social position. 3. Kokuryo King's ceremonial costumes are not the same as the China. Kokuryo performed a religious service an emperor's ceremony. And the Kokuryo King's religious mind was the Budism and Daoism. So that mural painting just showing the symbolic of the king's costumes , Myunryukwanbok.

• 복식
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• 제55권3호
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• pp.94-107
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• 2005

Kokuryo mural tombs are located in Jipan and Pyongyang, where were capital Cities of Kokuryo. Although there are many studies performed about costumes in Kokuryo mural tombs so far, the studies comparing regional differences are rare. In this study, we tried to compare about the costumes in Kokuryo mural tombs between Jipan, where was the capital city in early period (BC37-AD426) and Pyongyang, where was the capital city for 241 years after the King Jang Su moved.(AD427-AD668) The results of this study are as following. There are differences between Jipan and Pyongyang in the shape of Chima(skirt) and the direction of Yeomim (adjusting the necklines). While there was only one type, long and narrow pleated skirt in Jipan area, another type of Chima was existed in Pyongyang area including the one in Jipan. Also, the direction of Yeomim was different. Left was popular in Jipan while it was right in Pyongyang. Moreover there are no man's Po(coat) with straight collar which was considered as a basic shape in Kokuryo mural tombs costumes so far. Also we found that Baji(pants) was an ordinary woman's costume, not only for underwear.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.180-201
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• 2009

I scrutinized the idea that Parhae Marek was inherited from Kokuryo which was presented in "The study on the Marek" published in the journal of the Korean Society of Costume 55-5, and concluded the following results: 1. The Marek which Samguk sagi recorded is the red head scarf used for dancers who do Koguryo dance in the Babarian Music System in Tang dynasty. Since its original record Tong dian tells that Kokuryo performers' costumes then had strikingly changed and Quichi and GaoChang dancers also wore Marek, so the idea that Marek was originated from Koguryo should be reconsidered. 2. Considering the Yaksoori mural's indistinguishable condition as well as the same scenes from other Kokuryo mural paintings, I can't evidently tell that the first person who carries shouldering drum puts Marek on. 3. should be pronounced [Mal] for the meaning of a head scarf and its definition can't be limited only for the sash type. 4. Diverse historical data on head scarves deny the assumption that the sash type of hairband would have been succeeded from Kokuryo to the Parhae Marek. 5. The Marek of Princess Junghyo's mural painting can be an example that shows the costume of Tang influenced Parhae's. But the similarity in styles of costume between contemporary countries doesn't mean their reciprocal racial or political identity.

• 복식
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• 제25권
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• pp.183-199
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• 1995

Among many different approaches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by including political , militarial , economical , cultural , and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes according to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations invariety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physical activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed it role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Based on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving . Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating wit feathers . Jowoguan(조우관) is one of the examples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect , this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however men and women wear were claryly distinguished. Unlike other clothes that were restricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume . Monks wore black clothing (내의) that was influenced from China and the Western Regions(서역). To emphasize their religious power, Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of fire and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• 복식
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• 제25권
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• pp.185-199
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• 1995

Among many different approches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by in-cluding political, militarial, economical, cul-tural, and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes accord-ing to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations in variety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physi-cal activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed its role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Baseed on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving. Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating with feathers. Jowoguan is one of the exemples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect, this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however means and womens wear were claryly dis-tinguished. Unlike other clothes that were re-stricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume. Monks wore black cloth-ing that was influenced from China and the Western Regions. To emphasize their religious power. Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of five and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.29-40
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Heart shaped Earring in old tombs of Three Kingdom States. First Heart shaped Earring is 7 part in according to heart styles. I-A type was original style and that was influenced by scythe style. I-A II-A type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in Kokuryo Pacijae ancient Silla Gaya. I-B II-2-A type was also found in most of the old tombs except Kokuryo. Then II-2-A type was transmitted to Japanese Heart shaped Earring. I-A, I-B, II-1, II-2-A type was general style in ancient Silla gaya. Ii-1-B, II-2-B. II-3-A type was excavated from the only Pacjae tombs and II-3-B type was excavated from Kokuryo tombs. II-3-A, II-3-B type was unique style that was found in old tombs in Kokuryo, Pacjae.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.151-168
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to examine all kinds of Kwanmo of Kokuryo. The results are as follows . There are nine kinds of Kwanmo in Kokuryo : Kun(건), Chaik ( 책), Jeolpoong(절풍), Sogol (소골), Jowookwan (조익관), Rakwan (라관), Kagkwan(각관), Rip(립) and Jumdongkwan (금동관), Kun(건) is a piece of cloth which covers hair. There are two types of kun(건) : Hari band type and entire head cover type. Chaik(책) was originated in China , but people of Kokuryo didn't wore chinese Chaik (책) as it was. They created unique shape of their own. Jeolpoong (절풍) is the cone-shaped knwanmo which is chiefly made of leather. In the early period it was worn by the nobility , but gradually trickcled down common people's Kwanmo. Sogol(소골) is the cone -shaped Kwanmo which is made of silk and decorated with gold and silver. Only the nobility wore it, Jowookwan(조익관) is the knwanmo decorated with natural bird feather or metallic feather. Mainly it was worn by the nobility in hunting , Besides, worriors, diplomats, dancers and musicians wore it. Rakwan (나관) was worn by the highest class. There were three kinds of Rakwan (나관) : Baekrakwan(백나관). Cheongrakwan (청나관) and Birakwan (비나관). The king of Kokuryo wore BAekrakwan (백나관). It was simlar ini shape to chines Mookwan (무관). Kagkwan (각관) was the kwanmo unique to Kokuryo. It was used by the nobility . Rip (립)was originated on purpose to protect people form the sunshine or rain. There were two kinds of Rip(립) ; Bangrip (방립) and Pyungyangja(평량자). The former was used by the nobility, the lattr was used by common people in hunting . The Kwanmo which was decorated with gold and silver developed into Kumdongkwan(금동관). The Kwanmo which is similar to Kumkwan (금관) of Baekje and Shilla has been shown in Kaimachong (가마총) 무 dJumdongkwan(금동관) was excavated in the ancient tombs of Kokuryo.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.485-492
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Cone shaped Pendants in old tombs of Three Kingdom States. These Cone shaped Pendants are made of bronze and coated with gold plate or Gold. Each Cone shaped Pendants consists of a Sehwhan(細環) type or Taewhan type, a median part in the form of a several joined small globe, or circular shape, and finally a cone-shared pendant. Cone shaped Pendants is 5 part(A-L A-b, B-1-a, B-1-b, B-2-b type) in according to the styles of the Sehwhan(細環) and Taewhan type and median ornament types. A-a, A-b, B-1-a, B-1-b type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in Kokuryo, Pacjae, ancient Silla. B-2-b type was excavated from the only Kokuryo tombs.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2002년도 International Costume Conference
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• pp.29-29
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• 2002