• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.73-82
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• 2018

This research investigated the mechanical properties of the 4 different types of $3{\times}3$ cable stitches on weft knitted fabrics. The 4 kinds of cable-stitch fabrics were knitted under the same knitting conditions, then the mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, elongation, stiffness, etc. were measured according to the Korean Industrial Standards (KS K 0642). The knitting time for the sample produced by the knitting process 1 was the shortest among the 4 different types of samples. It means that the knitting process 1 would have benefits of higher productivity if there is no yarn breakage during the knitting of the cable stitches. In the test for tensile strength, the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have tensile values of approximately 8~11% higher than the sample produced by knitting process 1. The test for elongation also shows that the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have up to 18% higher elongation values than the sample produced by knitting process 1. On the other hand, the stiffness test showed no significant difference between the 4 samples. This study is expected to increase the competitiveness of the local knitting industry as a result of providing basic data on the mechanical properties of special knitted stitches, such as cable stitches.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.189-199
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• 2005

The purposes of this study are to see a manufacturing process on knit by comparison, and to present whole garment knitting machine different from the traditional method of the production by using the whole garment system. The characteristics of each stage were examined through SDS-one, Shimaseiki Design CAD System and the whole garment knitting machine. The whole garment knitting machine as a method of composing a suit of knitting product is a way of making creative knitting fashion, which also can be used as a basic material for the further study on the whole garment knitting machine. Eventually, it is expected that this machine can satisfy the knit wearers' various needs by showing more useful method to knit designers.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.80-84
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• 2002

Tension control is an important factor in producing high quality knitted products and in maintaining good processing condition. Yarn tension during knitting is subject to be affected from many elements of the machine and process parameters. Several factors including yam feeding speed, feeding angle, and needle gauge that are considered to influence on the tension variation were investigated. Yam feeding speed did not show high contribution to the tension variation but feeding angle of yam did show high correlation with the tension. No or negative correlation of the tension with needle gauge was found from the results. In order to keep well-determined process condition in the knitting manufacturing, it is strongly suggested that all knitting elements and parameters should be in the integrated control circumstance.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.8-13
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• 2010

Needle contamination was investigated using a test rig simulated the knitting points in the knitting machine in relation with the characteristics of knitting yarn such as yarn type and moisture contents. When used open-end yarn compared with combed and carded ring-spun yarns, the needle contamination was significantly increased because of the higher friction between yarn and needle by the fly and other impurities. Also Lower moisture content of the yarns aggravated the needle contamination. In addition knitting yarn breakage was substantially influenced by the higher needle contamination.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.59-64
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• 2006

Knifing parameters specially related to lint generation in the knitting zone such as knitting needles, yarn feed angle and yarn feed speed were investigated with a developed test rig, which simulated the hutting area on the knitting machine. Three different types of needle counts and feeding angles affected tension and the amount of lint that was caused by frictional forces between the yarn and the morphological structure of the needle. However, the yarn feed speed did not affect the lint generation. The results implied that a more advanced test rig was necessary for further study. Also, chemical and mechanical modifications of the kilting elements may be necessary to improve the lint problem.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.361-371
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• 2000

The problematic effects of fly creation on circular knitting machines during the knitting process were investigated in order to develop a new method for tackling the problem. A new idea, i.e. coating the yarn surface with a polymer film, was studied. Important physical properties of the coated yarm were studied and compared with normal yarn. A new test-rig was designed to measure the coefficient of friction and the degree of shedding of yarn. Yarns were coated with seven polymer materials and the performance of the coated yarns was tested and the results are discussed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.562-570
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• 2006

Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.148-152
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• 2001

Cotton yarns were coated with a polymer solution to hold surface fibers to the yam body, which caused fiber-fly generation during knitting process. The physical property of the coated yarn, especially a bending rigidity was investigated in order to evaluate the performance of the coated yam during knitting. SEM images showing the surface condition of the coated yarn demonstrated that the thickness of a coating material increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results of the bending rigidity measured using KES-FB2 system showed that the bending rigidity of the coated yam increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results also revealed the possibility that yarn coated with a low amount of coating material should be employed for further research of reducing fiber-fly generation during knitting process.

• Fiber Technology and Industry
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• v.4 no.3_4
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• pp.269-278
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• 2000

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.81-97
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to summarize systematically and understand the characteristics of the production process of whole garments in order to develop knitwear using a real whole garment machine and propose this as a development case for high value added knitwear design. Concerning research methods, the study looked at existing research into whole garment knitwear and relevant data, data on websites, and the whole garment knitting machine made by Shima Seiki, a Japanese company, which has been the most commonly used machine in Korea. Also the study collected program data concerning a knitting machine and knitting by participating in the production process of whole garment knitwear, and the production line was filmed directly. In addition, the study conducted research into the development of knitwear design using the SWG-X 12 gauge. The conclusions obtained from the production process of whole garments and product development include the following. First, whole garment knitwear is appropriate for expressing a sophisticated look that makes the body appear to be in one form through natural connection without any seam allowance. Second, it is very suitable for response production since it does not go through the pattern, cutting, and processing stages. Furthermore, because of the consistent management of the entire process by computer control, it may be the highest cutting-edge fashion area in which planning and proposal style industry may be realizable. Third, it is easy to approach design through a programming process, and it is possible to develop diverse patterns; thereby, it is appropriate for producing high value added knitwear products.