• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.80-84
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• 2002

Tension control is an important factor in producing high quality knitted products and in maintaining good processing condition. Yarn tension during knitting is subject to be affected from many elements of the machine and process parameters. Several factors including yam feeding speed, feeding angle, and needle gauge that are considered to influence on the tension variation were investigated. Yam feeding speed did not show high contribution to the tension variation but feeding angle of yam did show high correlation with the tension. No or negative correlation of the tension with needle gauge was found from the results. In order to keep well-determined process condition in the knitting manufacturing, it is strongly suggested that all knitting elements and parameters should be in the integrated control circumstance.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.59-64
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• 2006

니팅 공정상의 니팅 요소들 중 편침번수, 실의 공급 각도, 실의 공급 속도 등을 변화시키면서 새로 고안된 실험기구를 이용하여 니팅 존에서의 린트 발생현상을 조사하였다. 편침 번수와 실의 공급 각도는 실의 장력과 린트 발생량에 영향을 미쳤으며 이는 실과 편침 형태에 의한 마찰에 기인한 것으로 사료된다. 그러나 실의 공급 속도는 린트 발생에 큰 영향을 미치지 않았다. 본 실험을 기초로 하여 보다 더 심도 있는 연구를 위해서 좀더 정교한 실험기구의 개발이 필요하며 니팅요소들의 화학적, 기계적 변경에 의해 니팅공정상의 린트 문제를 개선시킬 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.1381-1387
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• 2007

현재까지 다양한 연속적인 공정시스템은 섬유, 제지 및 인쇄 등 많은 산업응용 분야에서 사용되고 있다. 이러한 응용분야에서 공정처리를 받고 있는 제품에 가해지는 장력은 원료의 공급속도와 생산되는 제품의 방출 속도간의 속도차에 의해 변화될 수 있다 특히, 섬유공정에서 공급속도와 방출 속도간의 속도차나 관성효과에 의해 발생되는 장력변동은 제품의 품질을 저하시킬 수 있다. 따라서 섬유공정에서 이러한 요인들에 의해 발생되는 장력 변동을 적절한 방법에 의해 보상하는 것은 매우 중요한 문제이다. 본 논문에서는 이러한 문제를 해결하기 위하여 섬유공정에서 많이 사용되고 있는 환편기 시스템에서의 장력제어 문제를 다루고자 한다. 먼저 일반적인 연속공정의 권취 메커니즘에 대한 장력 관계식을 모델링한다. 다음은 환편기 시스템에서 풀림롤과 감김롤을 효율적으로 구동하기 위하여 풀림롤과 감김롤간의 속도차와 관성특성을 고려한 새로운 장력제어 방법을 제시한다. 다양한 실험을 통하여 제안된 장력제어 방법이 주어진 환편기 시스템의 공정구간에서의 장력제어 성능을 향상시킬 수 있음을 보인다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.81-97
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to summarize systematically and understand the characteristics of the production process of whole garments in order to develop knitwear using a real whole garment machine and propose this as a development case for high value added knitwear design. Concerning research methods, the study looked at existing research into whole garment knitwear and relevant data, data on websites, and the whole garment knitting machine made by Shima Seiki, a Japanese company, which has been the most commonly used machine in Korea. Also the study collected program data concerning a knitting machine and knitting by participating in the production process of whole garment knitwear, and the production line was filmed directly. In addition, the study conducted research into the development of knitwear design using the SWG-X 12 gauge. The conclusions obtained from the production process of whole garments and product development include the following. First, whole garment knitwear is appropriate for expressing a sophisticated look that makes the body appear to be in one form through natural connection without any seam allowance. Second, it is very suitable for response production since it does not go through the pattern, cutting, and processing stages. Furthermore, because of the consistent management of the entire process by computer control, it may be the highest cutting-edge fashion area in which planning and proposal style industry may be realizable. Third, it is easy to approach design through a programming process, and it is possible to develop diverse patterns; thereby, it is appropriate for producing high value added knitwear products.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.15-32
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• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.751-765
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.945-952
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• 2004

Shrink-resist effects and properties of the knitted fabrics from wool/acrylic(W/A) fiber blends were determined to find out an optimal blending ratio keeping the quality properties of wool products. The test fabrics were knitted by a weft knitting machine with all needle knitting structure ($0{\times}0$ rib) under the same knitting conditions with five different types of yarns: $W100\%,\;A100\%$, and W/A blended yarns(70/30, 50/50, 30/70). Shrinkage during repeated washing, electrostatic propensity, thermal resistance and pilling propensity of W/A knits. The shrink resistance was significantly enhanced on repeated washing of W/A knits, especially, over $50\%$ acrylic blended knits. Addition of strong physical force and alkali detergent applied in this washing experiment brought about superior effects with the low shrinkage rate although it was very severe washing conditions for wool fabrics. The results from the washing experiment implies that W/A blend knits can be machine washed at individual households with other ordinary laundry. There was some changes and variation found in thermal resistance, electrostatic propensity, and pilling. W/A 50/50 blended knits did not bring serious changes to other physical properties comparing with original wool, which helps consumers care wool knitted clothes more conveniently.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.11-23
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• 2008

니트웨어가 가지고 있는 신축성은 우븐 페브릭으로 제작한 옷과 비교했을 때, 옷을 입었을 때의 편안함과 관리의 수월함을 제공하며, 이러한 니트웨어의 특성은 현대의 라이프 스타일에 맞는 경쟁력을 가지고 있다. 현대인의 생활은 단지 일에만 치중하며 사는 것이 아니라 여행, 사회적 참여 그리고 운동 등을 하며 개개인의 삶을 더욱 중요시 여기는 형태로 변해가고 있다. 따라서 손이 많이 가고 관리하기 힘든 옷을 위해 쓰는 시간은 점점 줄어들고, 캐주얼이나 정장에 관계없이 편안하고 관리하기 쉬운 옷을 선호하며 살아가고 있다. 이러한 경향은 패션산업시장에 직접 반영되어 관리하기 쉽고 입기에 편안한 니트웨어는 패션 시장 안에서 점점 더 많은 부분을 차지하고 개발되어지고 있는 실정이다. 하지만 현재 니트웨어 시장은 니트조직을 개발하고 표현하는 데에 있어 공장의 기술자 중심으로 이루어지고 있어 제한된 스타일의 니트조직이 대부분의 시장을 차지하고 있는 실정이다. 이에 창의력을 가진 니트 디자이너와 현대인의 감수성을 만족시킬 수 있는 니트 조직의 개발은 현대 패션시장에서 매우 중요한 과제로 남아있다고 할 수 있다. 또한 CAD를 사용하는 산업용 니팅머신은 독특한 텍스추어를 가진 니트웨어의 대량 생산을 위해 꼭 필요한 아이템이라고 할 수 있다. 이러한 시대의 요구에 맞추어 연구자는 이번 연구를 통해 현재 니트웨어 시장에 나와 있는 조직과는 차별화 된 4가지 니트조직을 CAD로 디자인하고 산업용 니팅머신을 사용해 현실화하였으며, 니트웨어 디자인에 적용하여 실제의상으로 제작해 보았다. 이 연구를 통해 얻어진 결과물이 현대인의 감수성을 만족시킬 수 있는 새로운 제안으로 현재 패션시장에 받아들여졌으면 하는 바람이다.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.77-86
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to characterize physical and tensile properties according to a knitting method as basic materials for solving the difficulties that occur due to the fact that the crosswise elongation is most different among knit stitch at the time of measuring elongation of knitwear. The sample used for this study was wool $100\%$ and was knitted into two, that is, controlled loop length controlled to properties of structure and fixed loop length by using Shimaseiki SES-124S 12G computer automatic flat knitting machine with DSCS device. Also, the density of rib fabric was 12gauge and its quantity was a total of seven of $0{\times}0,\;1{\times}1,\;2{\times}1,\;2{\times}2,\;3{\times}3,\;4{\times}4$ and including plain fabric, and knitted 2 pieces of sample of 300 wale${\times}400$ course. In conclusion, rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches.