• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.73-82
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• 2018

This research investigated the mechanical properties of the 4 different types of $3{\times}3$ cable stitches on weft knitted fabrics. The 4 kinds of cable-stitch fabrics were knitted under the same knitting conditions, then the mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, elongation, stiffness, etc. were measured according to the Korean Industrial Standards (KS K 0642). The knitting time for the sample produced by the knitting process 1 was the shortest among the 4 different types of samples. It means that the knitting process 1 would have benefits of higher productivity if there is no yarn breakage during the knitting of the cable stitches. In the test for tensile strength, the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have tensile values of approximately 8~11% higher than the sample produced by knitting process 1. The test for elongation also shows that the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have up to 18% higher elongation values than the sample produced by knitting process 1. On the other hand, the stiffness test showed no significant difference between the 4 samples. This study is expected to increase the competitiveness of the local knitting industry as a result of providing basic data on the mechanical properties of special knitted stitches, such as cable stitches.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.561-568
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• 2005

The irradiation of Ultra-Violet (UV) is an efficient treatment for polymer to improve hydrophilic properties. 4-Channel PET knit fabrics were treated with UVA and UVC to develop functional and environment-friendly fabric. The fabric was treated with various treatment times and distances from UV lamps having different wavelength. FT-IR and XPS investigated the chemical changes. To confirm the change of surface properties, contact angle, surface energy and SEM were examined. The study of UV as a treatment for PET knit fabric shows significant changes in chemical and surface properties, which is proved by analyses. FT-IR and XPS analyses prove the augmentation of carboxylic, Hydrophilic groups on the surfaces treated by UV. The increase of water contact angle and surface energy means more water wettable and surface energy of PET film was substantially increased by UV irradiation time. The ageing after surface treatment had little influence on the surface energy of the irradiated PET film. SEM proves the surface modification of PET such as etching, bubble and crack. The negative effects are increased in accordance with increasing treatment time.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.117-123
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• 2014

This paper examined dyeing using sulfur dye with nylon and the characteristics of high gauge knitting for generating high functionality including light weight, wind resistance and elasticity using fine nylon threads. Yarn tension, stitch field and knitting speed of high and fine gauge knitting were measured. The influence of reducing agents on sulfur dye, optimum dyeing conditions and fastness features in nylon dyeing were analyzed. The analysis results are presented below. When nylon (Hyoseong, 40d/34f) and spandex (Hyoseong, 20d) for use as hosiery yarn were used to knit high gauge and flat weave, 44 gauge, the effective knitting conditions were a stitch field over 8.2cm in 1 course length, yarn tension of less than 5g and knitting speed below 18rpm. Nylon dyeing using sulfur dye showed effective results when a rongalite reducing agent was used at more than 10% o.w.f. and dyeing was maintained at $98^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes. For dyeing nylon and spandex composite using sulfur dye, color fastness in washing, water, daylight and friction were higher than Class 4 or 5, which indicated a superior property. The analysis results verified that the existing problems in nylon dyeing could be solved by using sulfur dyes that don't use heavy metals due to superior fastness and therefore quality, high gauge nylon knit products could be produced.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.828-836
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• 2012

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.19-34
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• 1997

The role of fashion image in modern society is being diversified from product planning to consumer satisfaction. In this research, after surveying female college students, the diversified modern fashion image was patterned. On the analogy of the relationship between these patterned image and design factors, the following conclusion was obtained. 1. The most popular styles are jacket and pants suits, three-piece outfits, tight mini-skirts and X-silhouette. Little decoration is used in general. simplicity is shown as trend by utility fabrics in single color-black, brown, beige and blue-with no pattern. Various materials such as wool, cotton, wool or cotton blended with other materials, silk, satin, knit, lace, vinyl and leather are used. 2. Fashion image is divided into four factors; factors that show fad, dignity, activity and simplicity. 3. Factors that show fad; style of tops, material of bottoms and length of bottoms reflect fad. blousons, three-piece outfits, pants rather than skirts, X-silhouette and mini-skirts are prevailing. Vinyl, leather, knit, lace and satin are the materials well used. 4. Factors that show dignity; Style and material of tops, the way of top and bottom pieces are matched and length of bottom or pieces reveal the characteristics. Jackets, blouses, half-coats and one-piece outfits rather than two-pieces are popular. Tight skirts in natural or midi length or pleated skirts are common. Wool, wool blended with other materials, leather and X-silhouette are design factors that reveal dignity well. 5. Design factors that show active image; Straight pants, three-piece outfits, T-shirts, shirt -blouses, vests, and blausons are popular. Knit and lace are used for tops, leather and vinyl are used for bottom pieces and cotton is widely used. Y- or H-silhouette are used to show active image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

Hundertwasser's paintings have the characteristics in his works continue to emerge organical spirals, geometric pattern of squares, mysterious and gorgeous colors. This study by applying them, it has been purposed of expansion of representation outstanding artistic formative knitwear by using yarn of various textured fabrics and leather, felt, beads of the materials. The methods of this study are through the analysis of literature of Hundertwasser's paintings and art world and formative traits. It has been studied the literature of the theoretical background on general examination of knitwear and knit, felting, needle punching techniques. Conclusions from this study are as follows: The first, It could know the organic spirals and geometric square patterns and gorgeous colors of Hundertwasser's paintings are suitable as a decorative and rich motif of knitwear design. The second, It was possible unique and various texture expression of decorative patterns of Hundertwasser's paintings by expressing variety of materials of knit, felt and fabric, leather, beads. The third, It was expressed knitwear of unique texture to express Hundertwasser's image of the painting by using hand knitting, felting, needle punching, patchwork, beading of complex techniques. The forth, It was reflected well Hundertwasser's idea which was affected nature and art nouveau that all production processes are composed of handcraft techniques. It was suitable to express the naturalness of hand knit and not mechanical or artificial image. The fifth, It was analyzed lines and patterns of Hundertwasser's painting. The spiral is simultaneously constituted curve shape and area that square patterns also have devided area.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.131-139
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• 2011

This study surveyed on the synthesis of one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin and the physical property of the coated fabric for the garment. Three kinds of chain extender such as MEG, 1,4-BD and NPG were used for the preparation of one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin in order to examine the effect of chain extender on the physical properties of PU-coated fabric. And the effects of isocyanate on the physical properties of PU coated fabric were surveyed by mixing with various TDI and MDI ratios. In addition, the physical properties of the coated fabric treated with one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin were examined according to the pre-treatment conditions such as cire finishing. Finally, the washing durability of the coated fabrics was assessed. The coated fabrics treated with PU resin synthesized with PEG1000, MEG and TDI/MDI (6/4) showed the best physical properties. Considering the pre-treatment conditions, best performance of hydraulic pressure, water vapor permeability, and water repellency were obtained with top roller rotation ratio of 150% under 50 ton pressure at $170^{\circ}C$.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.103-108
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to analyze the effect of fiber contents of socks fabric on the subjective sensitivity and emotional sensibility of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective sensitivity and sensibility according to fiber contents and color value of socks. We made five plain knit fabrics as specimens, with a combination of chitosan/SUS fiber contents and three value levels of grayish color. The subjects were 15 males and 54 females in the twenties. The data analysis was conducted with Pearson's correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncan multiple range test, and regression analysis. The major finds were as follows: A factor analysis showed that subjective sensitivity was classified into five factors (bulky, surface-rough, elastic, attention, and variety) and emotional sensibility was into four factors (salience, stability, luxury, and activity). There were significant correlation between the subjective sensitivity and emotional sensibility. The subjective sensitivities of 'surface-rough' and 'elastic' were significantly influenced by fiber contents. The sensibilities of 'salience' and 'luxury' were significantly influenced by fiber contents. Where as the 'salience' and 'roughness' were significant influenced by color value level. According to sex, there were significantly difference in 'bulky', 'elastic' and 'salience'. As a result of the regression analysis, preference, consuming desire and satisfaction appears to be closely related with all subjective sensitivity and sensibility.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.123-128
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• 2006

For the purpose of examining the relationship of physiological and subjective responses to different exercise intensities and varied types of sportswear material, under environmental condition $20{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ $50{\pm}3%$RH, five men who wear four different kinds of sportswear which have same clothing cover area. The subjects exercised for 20 min with a 20 min pre-exercise rest period and another 20 min post-exercise recovery period. Throughout the 60 min. duration, we monitored the local skin temperature, rectal temperature, clothing microclimate and subjective sensation. The mean skin temperature was recorded to range from $33.5{\sim}34.1^{\circ}C$ for the entire duration of the experiment with the highest temperature observed at the 7th min after starting the exercise. During the exercise intensity at THR 20, the lowest recorded temperature was at the 5th min of the recovery time and stabilized at the 10th min. However, in the exercise intensity condition at THR 70, the temperature declined steadily until the end of the experiment. With regard to clothing materials, cotton 100% and Polyester/Cotton blended fabrics knit(35/65) was $0.5{\sim}0.7^{\circ}C$ maintained lower than Polyester 100% and polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (65/35). In the case of the rectal temperature at THR 70 in case of PET 100%, Polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (35/65) was higher $0.2{\sim}0.5^{\circ}C$ than other sportswear throughout the duration of the experiment.