• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.7
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• pp.1055-1065
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• 2002

The specific objectives of the survey were as follows: 1) to survey the knit wear purchasing behavior of the women in their twentieth and thirtieth, 2) to investigate the popular design, color, pattern and material, 3) to analyze the difference of knit wear purchasing behavior and preference. The data was on the base of the results of 321 pcs survey reports. The analysis methods was Means, Percentage, Frequencies, t-test and One-way ANOVA. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Most women were purchasing knit wear for combination with having other clothes. They were satisfied for design, color, activity and quality, but not for size changing after washing, keeping problems and raising of pilling. They liked simple or classic design, mono or pastel color, and no or simple skip pattern, check pattern. 2) The Single women were more purchasing knit wear by impulse for soft and easy handling, combination with other clothes, meet fashion trend than married women. And the women in their twentieth were get more informations for knit wear from mess media and displayed shop than the women in their thirtieth.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.562-570
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• 2006

Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.501-511
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• 2012

This study examines the effect of structural properties of F/W wool knit fabrics for woman's knitwear on the preferences for textile designing through analyzing the relationship among the structural properties, mechanical properties, objective hand measurements, and preferences. The 'knit structure' was determined to be the most important parameter in rating preferences, apart from the 'preference for cardigans'. Consumers preferred washable wool to normal wool when comparing a normal wool knit with a washable wool knit on a 'knit structure' factor. Preferred structural properties showed a similar tendency 'preference for fabric' and the 'preference for cardigans', 'preference for sweaters' and 'preference for vests'. The 'sophisticated/feminine' factor showed a correlation with 'fabric preference' and the texture and sensible images had a similar effect on fabric preferences. In the relationship between objective hand measurements and fabric preferences, the KOSHI value had a negative coefficient and the THV value had a positive correlation with fabric preferences. In conclusion, we found a consumer preference for more flexible fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 2013

This study investigated the formation of silhouette and hemline shape of knit flare skirts according to the properties of knit material through virtual clothing with a 3D virtual clothing system called i-Designer of Technoa, thus building a database of the property data of knit material to reduce the number of sample making steps repeated and implemented several times in the process of clothes making. The results would help to estimate a silhouette in advance, offer assistance to the development of original knit wear, and explore ways to provide basic data for the development of the knit industry of the nation. The investigator made 12 kinds of experimental clothes to the angles(width of skirt: $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge(7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain directions(wale and bias direction) of experimental clothes for virtual clothing. The dynamic characteristics of knit skirt samples according to each gauge were measured with the KES-FB system. Draper shapes were analyzed with the sectional shape data of hemline based on i-Designer. As for the measurements of the sectional shape of hemline and the formation of silhouette, the number of nodes, the average height of node mountains and valleys, and the hemline width right and left and before and after increased at the angle of $180^{\circ}$ than $90^{\circ}$. As gauges multiplied, the number of nodes, and silhouette angle dropping. When considering grain directions, the number of nodes and silhouette index increased in the wale direction at the angle of $90^{\circ}$ with the number of nodes and silhouette angle increasing in the wale direction at the angle of $180^{\circ}$.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.514-525
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• 2013

Korea International Trade Association (KITA) statistics show that the import of circular-knitted clothes has suddenly increased since 2000; they have increased by 24.5% each year for 2000-2004 and by 8.2% for 2005-2009. In addition, a Korea Apparel Industry Association survey showed that more than 50% of young people in their 20s and more than 40% of mid-aged people in their 30s-40s wore T-shirts (the most frequently worn and/or regarded as the most comfortable item among knit clothes). This portion is expected to increase in the future; however, insufficient research has been conducted on the characteristics of product development and production, knit T-shirt pattern development (Park, 2011), and consumer purchase patterns and behavior for knit clothes. The evaluation criteria for knit clothes generally vary depending on the demographic characteristics of consumers (Kotler & Armstrong, 2006). This study conducted a wearing trends survey for circular-knitted T-shirts and fit satisfaction based on 318 male and female consumers in their 20s-30s. The results provide information on the basic materials required to produce circular-knitted T-shirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1362-1376
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structural properties of F/W wool knit fabrics for woman's knitwear on the perceptions of textures and sensible images of consumers and present basic data for textile designing by analyzing the relationship among the structural properties, mechanical properties, objective hand measurements and preferences. A total of 12 kinds of knit fabrics were prepared and investigated in terms of the differences in the subjective, mechanical properties and objective hand measurements according to the structural properties of knit fabrics. The data were analyzed by t-test. The subjective hand attributes of wool knits through factor analysis are categorized into 6 factors. In particular, the 'active/comfort' factor is a meaningful result that reflects the unique characteristics of knit fabrics compared to woven fabrics. Mechanical properties and objective hand measurements have a greater effect on textures than on sensible images; in addition, the structural properties, 'gauge' was the most important factor to influence the subjective evaluation.

• Asia-Pacific Journal of Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.67-85
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• 2023

Purpose - This study seeks to investigate the determinants of global sourcing intention in clothing sewing industry, in particular with its focus on women's knit wear production. Design/methodology/approach - This study collected a unique set of qualitative data through 31 in-depth interviews with fashion brands, promotion agencies, and sewing factories between July 2023 and October 2023. In addition, it analyzed the dataset using the MAXQDA to complement the research findings. Findings - We have two findings. First, the interviewees commonly mentioned the following factors as reasons for considering global sourcing: the human factors(aging of skilled technicians and labor shortages), the financial factors(gap in production unit prices at home and abroad), the relational factors(lack of novelty), and the physical factors(loss of production infrastructure and network), while the human factors(skilled workforce), the production factors(delivery date and product quality), and the relational factors(timely communication and mutual trust) as reasons for continuing domestic sourcing. Additional code analysis of interview also supports this finding. On the other hand, there was also a subtle difference between buyers(brands) and suppliers(promotion agencies and processing plants), and buyers consider the exact delivery date critical so that they could see trend-sensitive women's knit wear on time, and suppliers took production costs, labor costs, and labor shortages, which are financial factors, more seriously. Research implications or Originality - This study provides a richer and more balanced view of existing literature, which has generally tended to introduce global sourcing across the clothing industry despite the existence of various diversity within the industry. In addition, through qualitative research, we introduce that the sewing industry is carried out according to complex factors, and by revealing and categorizing the determinants of global sourcing, we supplement the existing research on the clothing sewing industry centered on survey. On a practical note, this study introduces that there is a difference in view of domestic sourcing and global sourcing between buyers(brands) and suppliers(promotion agencies and sewing factories), suggesting practical implications for revitalizing networks and deriving win-win cooperation network models among members in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.280-287
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• 1999

The aims of this research were to study on the relationship between the mechanical properties and the deformation behavior of weft-knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure and knit density. Eighteen weft-knitted fabrics were produced with six different knit structures ($1{\times}1$ rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) and three different knit densities (loose, medium, tight). The mechanical properties of these samples were measured using the KES-F system. The 2HBIW increased as knit density was raised. The increase was greater for the double knit fabrics in all samples. Half-milano rib and crossmiss interlock samples showed the lowest 2HG/G values. The double knits were smaller than those of single knits indicate a higher degree of surface smoothness. The ratio of compression energy to weight per unit area of the double knits had lower values than the single knits.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.93-101
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• 1998

Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.