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A Study on the Late 19th Century Basic Costumes and Games based on Genre Paintings by Kisan Junkeun Kim - Referred from the book 「Korean Games」 - (기산 김준근 풍속화에 나타난 19세기말 일반복식과 놀이문화에 관한 연구 - 「한국의 놀이」 삽화를 중심으로 -)

  • Choi, Eunjoo
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.14 no.5
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    • pp.766-777
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    • 2012
  • The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

Domestic Research Trends in IT Fashion (IT 패션에 대한 국내 연구 동향)

  • Choo, Ho-Jung;Nam, Yun-Ja;Lee, Yu-Ri;Lee, Ha-Kyung;Lee, Sung-Ji;Lee, Sae-Eun;Jang, Jae-Im;Park, Jin-Hee;Choi, Jin-Woo;Kim, Do-Yuon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.14 no.4
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    • pp.614-628
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze research trends and make suggestions regarding the future of information technology (IT) in the fashion industry. In this study, 437 papers written regarding IT fashion from five major journals published between 2000 and 2011 were examined. The research areas were then organized by subject and keyword, and divided into 16 high-context categories. Two IT fashion maps were constructed, one from a fashion consumer's perspective, and the other based on the fashion industry's supply chain. This study identified important trends in IT fashion such as: 3D scanners, 3D digital renderings of the human form, 3D digital garments, smart garments, mass customization, production automation, online shopping, home shopping, online communities, e-commerce, digital media, virtual reality, e-tail, the digital generation, E-CRM, and education. Data from body scans was collected and applied to production, and research on smart textiles was also carried out. As for IT fashion's service areas, the majority of the research focused on online shopping or online communication. Additionally, research done on avatars and cyber space, and studies on social networking services are shown. The results of this study indicated that a new field of research has opened and that current research has been developing. Also, this study showed what is needed to expand and strengthen IT fashion.

A Study on Development of a Stage Costume Design, which expresses Doppelgänger Image: - Focus on the stage costume in "Le Grand cérémonial", a theater of the absurd - (이중자아 이미지를 표현한 무대의상 디자인 개발 - 페르난도 아라발의 부조리극 '장엄한 예식' 무대의상을 중심으로 -)

  • Han, Kyeng-Ha;Kim, Young-Sam
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.193-202
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    • 2012
  • With entering the 21st century, modern people's dark inside and panic are emerging as the talking point on the theater stage. Even in the field of stage costume, the necessity of a research is being demanded through analyzing on psychological anguish and structure of characters. Accordingly, this study aims to allow the stage costume design to be expressed a human being's Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image, which was elicited through analyzing a work of the play titled Le Grand C$\acute{e}$r$\acute{e}$monial by a playwriter Fernando Arrabal, who draws the conflictory and contradictory duplicity, which positions in a human being's deep inside by having chaos as catalyst. A research subject is 'Le Grand C$\acute{e}$r$\acute{e}$monial,' which was staged as the winter performance in commemoration of the 50th anniversary for the foundation of Dept. of Theater, Chung-Ang Univ. in November 2009. Psychology of characters in a play, which varies dimensionally, could be delivered, as nonverbal element called costume, by applying costume design of Cavanoza, Syl, Nice to Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image such as Innocence vs Cruelty, Purity vs Superficiality and Restraint vs Freedom, which were elicited through analyzing characters. Through this study, the costume, which was expressed by visualizing a human being's Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image, could be known to function as important dramatic factor of allowing character's psychology to be understood through costume as well as functioning as visual and sensible language, which is important for communication with the audience. A research on costume design, which reflects a character's complex inside, is expected to be likely continued through in-depth analysis on a playwriter's intention and on the appearing characters at the current point of time when an active research is being performed on stage costume in the wake of this study.

A Nonunique Composite Foreign Key-Based Approach to Fact Table Modeling and MDX Query Composing (비유일 외래키 조합 복합키 기반의 사실테이블 모델링과 MDX 쿼리문 작성법)

  • Yu, Han-Ju;Lee, Duck-Sung;Choi, In-Soo
    • KSCI Review
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.185-197
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    • 2006
  • A star schema consists of a central fact table, which is surrounded by one or more dimension tables. Each row int the fact table contains a multi-part primary key(or a composite foreign key) along with one or more columns containing various facts about the data stored in the row Each of the composit foreign key components is related to a dimensional table. The combination of keys in the fact table creates a composite foreign key that is unique to the fact table record. The composite foreign key, however, is rarely unique to the fact table record in real-world applications, particularly in financial applications. In order to make the composite foreign key be the determinant in real-world application, some precalculation might be performed in the SQL relational database, and cached in the OLAP database. However, there are many drawbacks to this approach. In some cases, this approach might give users the wrong results. In this paper, an approach to fact table modeling and related MDX query composing, which can be used in real-world applications without performing any precalculation and gives users the correct results, is proposed.

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A Comparative Study on the Changes in Size of Lower Body for Different Postures between Korean and American Women in their Twenties (20대 한국과 미국 여성의 자세에 따른 하반신 치수변화 비교 연구)

  • Choi, Sun-Yoon;Chun, Jong-Suk
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.5
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    • pp.728-733
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    • 2011
  • U.S. apparel brands are being imported to Korea more than any other country's apparel brands. Against this backdrop, this study intends to verify the fitness of U.S. apparels for Korean people in terms of size. To this end, the authors selected 25 American and 25 Korean women in their twenties and studied the differences of these two groups with regard to the size of their lower body parts. In addition, the authors analyzed how the size of each part of the lower body changes according to different postures. All the study subjects were required to be able to wear medium-sized pants of the U.S. apparel. The results of the present study are shown below. The American women were bigger than the Korean counterparts in leg length, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and all height-related sizes. However, the Koreans were bigger than their peers in lengths from waist to crotch; crotch length, body rise and the length from front waist point to hip line. Standing posture was used as a yardstick, when the changes in size according to the different postures were examined. The results indicate that hip and knee circumferences increased in the sitting posture. In particular, hip circumference significantly increased in the American women group. Regarding length-related sizes, increases and decreases in sizes for different lower body parts differed according to the posture. For a walking posture with ordinary strides, the front crotch length decreased while the back crotch length increased. This tendency was more notably observed for Korean women. The American woman clearly showed a decrease in outside leg length for all postures. The Korean women obviously presented an increase in the front center leg length for the sitting posture and for the posture where the knees were bent at $120^{\circ}$. The length from the front waist point to the hip line significantly declined in the Korean woman for the sitting posture and for the walking posture with ordinary strides.

Torso Pattern Design for Korean Middle-Aged Women using 3D Human Body Scan Data (차원 인체 스캔 데이터를 활용한 한국 중년여성 토르소 원형 설계)

  • Kim, Hye-Jin;Park, Soon-Jee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.600-613
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.

A Qualitative Study of Korean Clothing Companies' Perception of Production Environments and Labor Standards in Foreign Contract Manufacturers (해외 생산업체에 대한 국내 의류업체의 생산환경 및 근로기준 인식에 대한 질적 연구)

  • Hong, Kyung-Hee;Yang, Ji-Nok;Lee, Ji-Soo;Kim, Young-Mi;Lee, Yoon-Jung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.291-301
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    • 2010
  • Today Korean clothing companies are experiencing difficulties in the global market due to unfavorable business conditions including poor production environments, labor shortage, rising costs, the further opening of the domestic distribution market, and increased competition among them. As a result, this has caused many of Korean clothing companies to transfer their production bases abroad in search of relatively inexpensive labor force, instead of using domestic plants. This study attempted to examine how Korean clothing companies perceive production environments and labor standards with regard to their offshore outsourcing. In such an attempt, in-depth interviews were conducted with 24 brand-name clothing firms. Those interviewed firms were the brands for the domestic or foreign market that were found to produce more than 200,000 pieces of clothing per year, and also the group of interviewees included some promotion service providers. The key findings from this study are as follows: First, a large number of the interviewed clothing companies were found to manage their foreign contract manufacturers by "visiting their factories regularly on a seasonal basis" or "stationing their personnel in factory for management purposes." Second, in relation to quality control in their foreign manufacturers, the most frequent response was to "have personnel stationed in those manufacturers." A smaller number of the clothing companies answered that they had "engaged their production management teams in quality control from time to time," or "used their inspectors to inspect products." Third, when asked about labor standards in foreign contract manufacturers, the largest number of the clothing companies responded, "we apply our own standards." The results of this study suggest that most of domestic clothing companies still use offshore sourcing just as a means of reducing their initial labor costs. However, in the continuously changing environment of the global clothing industry, clothing businesses are required to escape from the early phases of their manufacturing environments and set up more globalized standards.

Effect of Leadership Style on the Satisfaction of Organizational Members : Focusing on the Transfomational Leadership (리더십 유형이 조직구성원의 만족도에 미치는 영향에 관한 연구 - 변혁적 리더십을 중심으로 -)

  • 이광재
    • KSCI Review
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    • v.1 no.2
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    • pp.47-72
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    • 1995
  • 지금까지 나타난 많은 리더십 이론이 주로 기독교 문화권인 서구에서 연구된 것을 문화권이 다른 우리나라에 적용하고자 하는 것이 기존의 연구 경향이었다. 오랫동안 전통이 되어 온 우리 특유의 조직 문화 중에서 특히 관료적이고 권위주의적인 조직 문화에 새로운 변화가 일어나고 있는 과도기적인 현시점에서 최근에 나타난 리더십 이론인 B.M.Bass의 변형적 리더십 이론을 모델로 하여 우리 기업에 적절한 리더십 유형을 찾는 것이 일차적 목적이며 여기서 찾아낸 리더십 유형 별로 조직원의 상사 만족도에 미치는 영향을 알아보는 것이 이 연구의 목적이었다. 따라서 이 논문에서 제시한 리더십 유형을 보면 변혁적 리더십 유형에 속하는 것으로 지원적 배려, 카리스마, 과업 동기 자극으로 3분류하였으며 거래적 리더십 유형에 속하는 것으로 상황적 보상, 예외 관리, 소극적 관리로 3분류하여 모두 6유형을제시하고 신뢰성과 타당성을 확인하였다. 실증 연구 결과를 보면 우리나라는 거래적 리더십유형인 상황적보상, 예외 관리, 소극적 관리가 모두 조직원의 상사 만족도에 영향을 미치는것으로 나타나 Bass의 주장과는 다소 상이하다. 그러나 변혁적 리더십 유형인 카리스마, 지원적 배려, 과업 동기 자극에서는 카리스마만이 조직원의 상사 만족도에 영향을 미치고 지원적 배려는 영향력의 정도가 미약하며 과업 동기 자극은 거의 영향을 미치지 못하는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 리더의 부하 통솔 및 지도 방향에서 아직도 우리나라에서는 거래적 요소가 짙다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 비록 당분간은 리더가 거래적 리더십을 많이 사용하겠지만 기업의 역사가 길어지고 종업원의 교육 훈련의 기회가 많아지면 변혁적 리더십으로 전환되리라 생각된다.가 단층원주상피세포와 단층입방상피가 부위에 따라 다르게 분포하고 있으며, 상피세포 및 결합조직에는 두터운 근육층이 있어 음경의강한 운동성이 감지 되었다. 제주도 내의 서귀포 부근에서는 현재 천연기념물로 지정되어 있는 서귀포층내에서 많은 화석들이 산출되고 있다. 이 시대는 빙하기와 간빙기가 교호하던 시대로서, 분석 결과에 의하면 서귀포층이 쌓일 당시에 우리 나라는 빙하기의 영향을 받았던 것으로 생각된다.is)은 근섬유가 산재된 두꺼운 벽을 가졌으며 상음경보다 굵은 원통형이었다. 내강은 많은 돌출부에 의해 복잡하게 나뉘어 있으며 상피세포는 원주 세포로 이루어져 있었고 섬모는 관찰되지 않았다. 내강 내의 분비물과 세포의 형태로 보아 내강상피세포는 분비기능을 가진 것으로 사료된다.술적 문제가 적절히 해결되는 경우 비활성 가스 제너레이터는 민수용으로는 대형 빌딩, 산림, 유조선 등의 화재에 매우 적절히 사용되어 질 수 있을 뿐 아니라 군사적으로도 군사작전 중 및 공군 기지의 화재 그리고 지하벙커에 설치되어 있는 고급 첨단 군사 장비 등의 화재 뿐 아니라 대간첩작전 등에 효과적으로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.가 작으며, 본 연소관에 충전된 RDX/AP계 추진제의 경우 추진제의 습기투과에 의한 추진제 물성 변화는 미미한 것으로 나타났다.의 향상으로, 음성개선에 효과적이라고 사료되었으며, 이 방법이 편측 성대마비 환자의 효과적인 음성개선의 치료방법의 하나로 응용될 수 있으리라 생각된다..7%), 혈액투석, 식도부분절제술 및 위루술·위회장문합술을 시행한 경우가 각 1례(2.9%)씩이었다. 13) 심각한 합병증은 9례(26.5%)에서 보였는데 그중 식도협착증이 6례(17.6%), 급성신부전증 1례(2.

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