• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.769-777
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• 2011

Anti-aging is one of the key words to have characterized Korean society, and Korean adults in their 40s and 50s are very interested in this word. In this study, their cognitive ages and body images which are expected to have been influenced by anti-ageing were determined and correlation between them was examined. A survey was conducted and 368 of 500 questionnaires were used in data analysis. Data were analyzed by descriptives, factor analysis, reliability analysis, correlation analysis, and multiple response analysis through SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows. First, the cognitive ages of Korean adults in their 40s and 50s showed to be 37.5 years old which are 9.1 years old younger than their average actual ages. Second, their attitudinal body images appeared to be composed of appearance orientation and appearance evaluation, and appearance orientation represented to be a little higher than appearance evaluation. In addition, it showed that the correlation between cognitive ages and the attitudinal body images was low and negative. Third, people in their 40s and 50s revealed to think good health and impression as ideal body images. It was found that they regarded a face as the most important body part for ideal body images and were sensitive of their weight. Forth, correlation between cognitive ages and variables of ideal body images was identified to be significant in 4 variables which are slender, shapely and slim figure and good body proportions. In conclusion, it was shown that Korean adults in their 40s and 50s recognized themselves to be 9.1 years old younger and, the younger they perceive themselves, the younger body images they want. Also, it could be confirmed that anti-ageing is a megatrend in Korean society.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.806-814
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• 2011

A solar jacket, which utilizes solar energy for generating electricity, is an example of clothing developed by the fusion of multiple technologies; such fusion of technologies can lead to further developments in the clothing industry and other industries in general. Many research institutes and garment manufacturing companies in Europe and America are developing solar garments; various solar-based products manufactured using solar cells, photovoltaic batteries, etc. are being sold at high prices. The purpose of this study was to investigate the development status of solar garments and their application for generating photovoltaic energy; the study also identified the type of design and upper body clothing preferred by Korean in their early 20s. The survey participants were 188 university students aged between 20 and 25. The design of the proposed six types of solar clothing was evaluated and rated; they were then ranked on the basis of the ratings. A survey on the management of solar garments was conducted, and ratings were assigned according to a 5-point Likert scale, with 5 indicating the strong affirmation. The survey results showed that among the six types of clothing, protective clothing (50%) and sportswear (22%) were more preferable than the others (working clothes (16%), casual clothes (3%), everyday wear(6%), and suits(1%)). Among the six proposed designs, the jumper design (22%) and jean jacket design (21%) were preferred over the others (casual jacket (19%), casual jacket I (15%), classic suit (14%), and climbing jacket (9%)). Factorial analysis of the management of solar garments revealed that the most important factors were the properties of the solar cell and time required for battery charging, and the second important factors were clothing weight and comfort.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.759-768
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• 2011

This study is designed to understand current wearing conditions of air force mechanic parkas and evaluate their functionality by examining the wearing conditions and wearers' subjective assessment. By doing so, it also intends to identify issues that require improvements; and to provide basic data for future development of air force mechanic parkas. A survey was conducted as a study methodology, and the collected 1,628 questionnaires were analyzed. Findings of this study are as follows. 1. In the usability assessment, it was found that visibility of body sides was needed to be enhanced since reflective tapes were attached only to the front and back of the body; pockets were too big, but not convenient to keep mechanic tools; the design of hiding hood was not suitable for water-proof clothing; and a new design of size-controllable hood was called for since the hood blocked eye sight. With respect to the fabric, dissatisfaction was identified with durability, cold-proof and fire-proof features. 2. In the mobility assessment, respondents showed low satisfaction with collar heights and neck girths. Mobility score was over moderate level on average, except the parka length that obstructs wearers' movement, and neck and collar size. 3. In the wearability assessment, respondents presented moderate satisfaction with pleasantness, weight, pressure and dampness. However, insulation was found unsatisfactory. Based on the result, this study proposed improvement plans on design, pattern and fabric; and is expected to serve as basic data for developing more effective and functional air force mechanic parkas.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.672-678
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• 2011

This was written based on the type and structure of korean man's waist belt in the early and middle era of the Chosun era. The waist belt was excavated from the Mokdaldong in the Daejeon city. The types of korean man's waist belt in the Chosun era were classified into Wondahae (i.e., round shape belt) and Gwangdahae. The Wondahae consist of two types which are circle shaped and straight types. The circle shaped wondahae contain one fringe in the main body of the belt and its joint part is decorated with a small network such as lacing decoration with the size about 1 cm around. The shape of the Wondahae has been changed from the circle shaped into the straight types and also has a tendency to be wider and longer as time went by. The standard form of the Gwangdahae is straight with about 2-3 cm width and elaborated by lacelike fringe as well. This also has a tendency to be wider starting from the 1600s show. The structure of this belts were divided into braid and ornament parts. The ornament part was constructed with the lacelike netting and fringe parts. The sophisticated craft techniques have a great decorative beauty. Through an analysis of FT-IR, the materials of those three belt are known which are made of the silk and the core thread was filled with cotton. Moreover, it can be confirmed that the glitter material of the ornament part were designed with gold foil and has been analyzed with SEM-EDX.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.778-789
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• 2011

The natural dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. Mixed components of flavonoid and tannin seem to be the components of guava leaf extract. The temperature and time for dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. The highest K/S value was recorded at pH 3. Fe-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. High K/S values were shown in the post-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $40^{\circ}C$ and the pre-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $90^{\circ}C$. After repeated dyeing and mordanting, various color change occurred with mordant treatment. Surface colors were changed to YR color in alkaline water extract and to Y color in acidic water and ethanol extract, respectively. The washing fastness was level 3-4 for Sn-mordanted fabrics and level 4 for Fe-mordanted fabrics, and the dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory with level 3-4. The light fastness was above level 4 only when Fe-mordanting was conducted, and the rest of dyed fabrics was not fast enough. In the antibacterial activity, the powder of guva leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity and Staphylococcus aureus showed 99.6% in dyed fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.797-805
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• 2011

This study was carried out to investigate dyeing characteristics of CDP(cation dyeable polyester)/silk knitted fabrics with disperse type cation dyes/acid dyes by one bath dyeing method in comparison with two bath dyeing method in the interests for rationalization of the dyeing process. The apparent color depth(K/S) of the disperse type cation dyes with CDP and that of acid dyes with silk decreased slowly with increasing pH values of dyebath with the exception of sharp decrease at alkali region for CDP. The contamination behavior of CDP by the acid dyes and that of silk by the disperse type cation dyes decreased with progressing of dyeing. The migration ratio(%) of the disperse type cation dyes with CDP is low compared with that of acid dyes with silk. The sediment in mixed dying solution of disperse type cation dyes and acid dyes remarkably less compared with that of regular type cation dyes and acid dyes at $100^{\circ}C$ regardless applying of preventer agent of precipitation. When CDP/silk knitted fabrics was dyed with by with mixtures of disperse type cation dyes/acid dyes one bath or two bath dyeing method, the characteristic of reflectance spectra of CDP components were greatly influenced by disperse type cation dyes and that of silk components by acid dyes. It was confirmed that K/S values of each components of CDP/silk knitted fabrics dyed by one bath dyeing method decreased slightly compared with two bath dyeing method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.461-471
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• 2011

Jewelry has recognized as a part of independent formative arts of fashion with the change modern man's cognition for the fashion. It is a great important section to express fashion image. So, many corporations design and develop the jewelry by themselves to maxmize their fashion image. Among the so many kinds of jewelry, especially the necklace is located beneath the face and linked as a part of fashion, so it frequently has showed in Fashion Collection. Like this Fashion and jewelry enact each other and share their esthetic features but, it is insufficient the study of fashion linked with the jewelry. In this study, we defined the words which is using confusedly according to jewelry forms what researched by others. In addition, we tend to study the effect of that the form, hue and character of materials of necklace that is expressed in fashion collection influence fashion image. The method of this study is comprised with precedent studies and analysis of necklace photos in fashion collection. For the analysis of data, we implement content analysis and statistical analysis using SPAW Statistics 18(frequency analysis, percentage, cross-tabulations, $X^2$-test). Because the hue and the form of necklace take a great role to make fashion image with the sense of its eyesight, its effective coordination go up the delicate feelings with the form, hue and quality of the fashion. Especially, the hue is the essential element of formative characteristics to express visual image. The necklace had coordinated more frequently in S/S than F/W, it means that more light and simple fashion let ornamental beauty could express by the necklace. So, it is very effective things that we predict the trend of fashion, then, coordinate with well-matched necklace.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.472-477
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• 2011

In the tide of globalization, culture products play pivotal role in effectively introducing our tradition and culture to the world. This research is about developing culture products using our traditional lady's art craft work to attain the purpose of modern application through recreation of tradition along with modern technology. First, the types of traditional lady's art craft work include pouches, wrapping clothes and other accessories made by sewing except costumes. The materials used were cotton, silk, ramie, hemp and decorating techniques involved were embroidery, patchwork, quilting, knot. Second, the purpose of this study is developing culture products with traditional images which also satisfy modern sense. Therefore, items that could be used readily in daily life were selected. Such items include bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches. In addition, the Korean traditional Patchwork images which have both western-style and modern sense were selected out of the many kinds of traditional lady's art craft works. Third, cultural products (bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches) were created by DTP in silk with sacdong and free-styled division Korean traditional Patchwork images and quilting technique. The significance of this study lies in examining the possibility of developing modern culture products using traditional lady's art craft work. A way to further develop this study would be to shed new light on traditional crafts and local cultural resources and actively carry on the study of cultural product development to provide the foundation for developing cultural products with modern applications.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.614-623
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop a wedding dress basic torso pattern and sleeve pattern considering good fit and aesthetic for figures of Korean brides in their 20s. For the research method, 3 women in their 20s who has the body size of ${\pm}$ S.D range of average figure and dress form suggested by 'the 5th human body measurement' of Size Korea were selected as the test group. The evaluators are 8 clothing construction majors, and the evaluation items included total 22 questions related to torso and total 10 questions related to sleeves. The evaluation was made using 5 Likert point scale. 4 prototypes for basic dress pattern were selected through the literature search. After compare analyzing design methods of prototypes, the real wedding dresses were made in the average size of women in their 20s and the dresses were tried on for the assessment. The data was analyzed using SPSS 18.0 Program to examine average, standard deviation and significant differences between basic patterns. Based on the results of the first and the second try-on assessments, a new wedding dress basic pattern with maximized strengths of compared prototypes was completed. The details of result follows. As for dress torso basic pattern, A pattern, which had the highest overall silhouette satisfaction and scores in basic pattern analysis and try-on assessments, was selected as the prototype, and a research basic pattern reflecting strengths of each basic pattern was developed. As for dress sleeve basic pattern, B pattern, which had the highest overall silhouette satisfaction and scores in basic pattern analysis and try-on assessments, was selected as the prototype, and a research basic pattern reflecting strengths of each basic pattern was developed. In this study, a wedding dress basic pattern considering good fit and aesthetic for figures of Korean brides in their 20s was suggested. It is expected that the basic pattern will be used by continuously developing dress market and ready-made wedding dress manufacturers as well as in educational institutes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.582-589
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate problems of design, fitness, suitability for movement, and comfort in current Korean military tank driver's clothing through analysis of actual wearing condition by questionnaire and field evaluation and. to provide basic data for developing a improved design of Korean military tank driver's clothing. The survey was done for 477 military tank driver and the field evaluation was also done for evaluation. The overall satisfaction for design of military tank driver's clothing(3.25) was higher than that for the easiness in wearing and taking off(2.76). The military tank drivers evaluated that current coverall type of clothing is more suitable than two-piece type of clothing. The overall satisfaction for fitness of clothing was as a whole low(2.82~3.09), Especially, the satisfaction for fitness of from front and back rise length was the lowest one. In the satisfaction for clothing materials, the satisfaction for the breathability of material was the lowest, followed by clothing insulation and air permeability. The satisfaction for movement was low in bending waist and raising forward and aside. The part which surveyors think most dissatisfactory was also front and back rise length. The frequency in use of pocket was the highest in chest pocket, followed by waist and pants pockets. The satisfaction for opening easiness of hips opening part was very low(2.64).