• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.144-153
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• 2001

The effect of crosslinking on hand of the cellulase treated Tencel fabrics was investigated. Tencel fabrics were crosslinked with DMDHEU, mechanically prefibrillated, hydrolyzed by cellulase, and treated with softener. The treated fabrics were characterized by add-on, weight loss, DP rating, WRA, strength, SEM analysis and hand measurement. As DMDHEU concentration increased, weight loss of DMDHEU/cellulase treated fabrics decreased. However, cellulase treatment decreased DP properties and strength retention. Less fibrils were observed in the cellulase treated fabrics after DMDHEU treatment than the cellulase treated ones. It was confirmed that crosslinking with DMDHEU treatment was effective to control fibrillation. At 5% of DMDHEU concentration, DMDHEU/cellulase treated fabrics showed softer, smoother and bulkier hand compared with other treated fabrics. Among mechanical properties, bending and shearing properties were decreased progressively through DMDHEU, cellulase, and softener treatment. DMDHEU treatment contributed to impart resilience, cellulase treatment to bulkiness and softener treatment to smoothness. As the treatment of DMDHEU, cellulase, and softener progressed NUMREI, FUKURAMI, and THV increased with the exception of KOSHI.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.287-297
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to investigate the Improvement of fiber surface, tenacity & elogation, fabric counts, thickness, handle, moisture regain, static voltage, handle, dyeability when polyester fabrics are treated with NaOH solution adding quartemary ammonium salt (Benzyl dimetyl dodecyl ammonium chloride . BDMDAC) The results are as follows. I. In regard to the method of processing VET, when the PET fabrics are alkaline-hydrolyzed adding BDMDAC, the weight loss of PET fabrics increased remarkably to the increse of BDMDAC concentration than when they are treated only in NaOH solution. When PET fabrics are alkaline-hydrolyzed the amount of BDMDAC as the catalyst is proper lg/1 II. The change in physical & chemical properties of alkaline-hydrolyzed PET fabrirs. 1. As the amount of the weight loss on PET fabrics increased, the void space of the PET yale increased but tenacity & elongation and thickness decreased. 2. The fabric counts of PET increased due to shrinkage by alkaline-hydrolydzing. 3. As the amount of of the weight loss on PET fabrics increased. NUMERI, FUKURAMI, increaseed and KOSHI decreased and Total hand value(T.H.V) in all cases increaseed. When the weight Ioss is 30.9% T.H.V. is best. 4. Moisture regain of PET fabrics a little increased by alkaline-hydrolyzing treatment. As the weight loss increased, static voltage is decreased. 5. The last dye absorption is different according to the degree of the Affinity. In regard to the difference of dye color, the dyestuff of low molecular weight dyed for deep color.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.327-338
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• 1994

KES-F system is widely used in hand evaluation, however, it has encountered some challenges, such as the overlapping of primary hand value, lack of predictability in case of women's thin dress, difficulties in communication due to complexity of primary hand expression and cultural differences in subjective evaluation. Therefore, this study was intended 1) to find out the Korean primary hand expressions(factors) of the overall concept of fabric hand associated with women's spring- fall dress fabrics, 2) to develope the fabric hand attributes of those fabrics and 3) to show whether there are any differences between Korean textile experts and non-experts in terms of the concept of fabric hand descriptors of hand attributes. Data base of hand descriptors were collected by extensive interview 60 experts and 10 non - experts using 110 spring-fall dress fabrics. Finally, hand of selected fabrics was assessed by 205 experts and 265 non-experts using 7-point scale of 26 descriptors based on the data base. Subjective ratings were analyzed by common factor analysis with varimax rotation. It was found that Korean primary hand expression indicated rather simple property, hence, did not equate exactly with Japanese experssion(e.g. koshi, shinayakasa, etc.) which contains several material properties. There were differences in stretch IE resilience, especially liveliness, between the judgement of non- ex- pert than to experts. Surface- related category was more important to non-experts than to experts. Slight differences were found between both groups in terms of preferred descriptors. Important descriptors as a rating scale were suggested.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.791-799
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• 2014

For development of dyeability, the rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed rayon fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the rayon fabrics were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabrics were decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness were increased. The rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness), fukurami(fullness and softness) were increased. while Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Shari(crispness) were greately decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.783-791
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• 1996

The effect of alkali treatment on the changes in characteristics, mechanical properties, and hand of polyester fabrics was studied. Two kinds of fabrics having different yarn deniers were treated varying weight loss. The results were as follows; 1. Changes in constructional characteristics by alkali treatment were: a decrease in weight & thickness of fabric, a decrease in yarn denier, a decrease in apparent density of fabric, an increase in porosity to air, and a change fiber surface. 2. As for the changes in mechanical properties by alkali treatment, findings were : an increase in WT, RT, MIU, LC, and WC, a decrease in LT, B,2HB, G,2HG,2HGS, MMD, SMD, and RC, ana an increase in drape. 3. Changes in hand by alkali treatment were: a decrease in KOSHI and HARE, an increase in FUUURAMI, SHARI, KISHIMI, and SHENAYAUASA, and an increase in T.H.V 4. In the case of the same weight loss, the hand of 40/24 fabric being composed of thinner yarns was better than the hand of 50/24 fabric. 5. When 50/24 fabric was treated to have the same weight with 40/24 fabric, so the yam deniers of two fabrics were the same, the hand of 50/24 fabric having larger weight loss was better than the hand of 40/24 fabric.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.21-29
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• 2009

In order to enhance the functionality of a cotton fabric actually used as a clothing material for patients, the fabrics were treated with a chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. The nanosilver had excellent biocompatibility, provided expectation of an additional performance, did not harm human beings, and supplements chitosan, which was disadvantaged if used alone for fabric treatment. The nanosilver was mixed thereto and a treatment effect due to a mixing ratio was considered. This study was observed through mechanical properties and hand value which were the important function. The treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution gave a smoother surface than the treatment of chitosan alone. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the cotton fabric was a little smooth to provide elasticity, due to the treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. THV of the treated fabrics calculated from this basis increased at all mixing ratio as compared with the untreated fabric. The fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution were shown a better THV than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1153-1164
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to knitted nine kinds of single knit and examined mechanical properties and hand to provide the fact that knit, tuck and miss stitch applied to various structure have an effect on hand of weft knitted fabrics. It was good to use tuck stitch rather than miss stitch to increase elasticity of knitted fabrics. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were double or triple overlaps, tensile resilence(RT) decreased by increase of friction contacted among stitch. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were knitted double or triple, bending rigidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB) and shearing(G) properties increased by jamming of stitch. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were overlap, thickness increased and they became thicker than miss stitch. Also, as they became thicker by these tuck stitch and miss stitch, compressional energy(WC) increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction(MIU) of cross tuck stitch was larger than coefficient of cross miss stitch. Mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) had a tendency to be larger as tuck stitch and miss stitch increased. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were overlaps double or triple, KOSHI and FUKURAMI increased, total hand value(TIV) and NUMERI appeared high in double cross tuck stitch and double cross miss stitch.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.1138-1150
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• 1996

This study was carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing on the mechanical properties, primary hand, total hand value (THV), and total appearance value (TAV) of woven fabrics. Cotton, PET, nylon, cotton/PET, and cotton/nylon woven fabrics were used as test specimens. Each of fabric was dyed under the same conditions as the fabrics for sportswear which consumers have selected as best. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand and THV were calculated by equation KN -201-MDY and KN-301-WINTER respectively. TAV was calculated by KN (eq. 10). The results were as follows: 1. In mechanical properties. tensile energy increased when cotton and two cotton mixture fabrics were dyed and decreased when polyester and nylon fabrics were dyed. Bending rigidity and shear rigidity decreased after all fabrics were dyed except nylon and cotton/ nylon mixture fabrics showing higher rigidities. Cotton fabrics showed higher surface roughness while other fabrics did lower values after dyeing. 2. In evaluation of primary hand and total hand , four primary hands of cotton fabrics so decreased after dyeing that THV were lowered. Numeri, Fukurami, and Sofutosa in primary hand of polyester, cotton/polyester, and cotton/nylon fabrics and Koshi and Numeri of nylon fabrics increased after dyeing and therefore THV of four fabrics were improved. 3. Cotton and polyester fabrics showed higher TAV due to their lower bending and shear rigidity, while nylon and cotton/nylon fabrics did lower values due to their higher shear rigidity. 4. It was proposed that the method of dyeing or treatment for minimizing the decrease of THV of cotton fabrics and TAV of nylon fabrics should be developed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.997-1007
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• 2005

The textile finishing methods utilizing chitosan have been mostly focused on the applications in the improvement of the dyeing of cotton fabrics, or the improvement of hand of the cotton or wool fabrics. On the other hand, it Is difficult to find the application examples in the synthetic fiber fabrics including polyester and nylon fabrics. The aim of this study is to improve the stiffness and the poor wash fastness of the fabrics treated only with chitosan. We tried to improve the softness by employing chitosan and polyurethane mixture solution and to prevent the detachment of the chitosan from the fabric. The treatment was applied to cotton, polyester, and nylon fabrics. The change of the properties of the treated fabrics were investigated. The optimum finishing condition was sought by changing the mixture ratio of the chitosan/PU(polyurethane) solutions. The adjusted ratios of the chitosan/PU solutions were 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, and 1 : 2 during the mixture solution preparation. Using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System), the physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were analyzed, and hand values of the specimens were calculated through the use of translational formulas. According to the chemical composition of the fibers, chitosan solution or chitosan/PU mixture exhibited wide range of coating effect. Since the chitosan acid solution has high polarity, the bonding force with the cotton fibers is high. By the appropriate addition of PU in the chitosan treatment of cotton, KOSHI and HARI values of the fabric improved. The air permeability of the chitosan/PU treated cotton fabric specimen improved, resulting in the highest value at the mixture of chitosan : PU=1:0.25.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.334-345
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• 2011

A study on compressive garments guarantee the required pressure and form depending on the type of disease and the state of injury can be used in the preventive treatment of cardiovascular disease. This research is to provide a preliminary data to develop medical clothing products, especially knitted compression garments. Starting from analyzing knitted structure of imported pressure goods to apply to test samples, 11 kinds of knitted stretchy fabrics were manufactured under the various knitting conditions, then their tensile, mechanical and hand properties were measured. In comparison size changes by knitting structure, tuck stitch applied structure showed an increase in course direction and decrease in wale direction. Float stitch applied structure indicated the contraction of size in width because of unformed loops and floated yarn on the technical back of fabric. As a result of tensile properties in tuck and float applied structure, tensile strength was increased in the course direction. On the other hand, the more loops overlapped due to the tuck and float stitch, the more decreased their elongation and elastic recovery were. In case of mechanical properties, as the tuck and float stitch were overlapped double or triple the bending and shearing properties were risen. Accordingly, the drape of fabric becomes stiff, and its surface becomes rough and uneven. The measurements of hand properties showed that the value of KOSHI, FUKURAMI NUMERI in tuck and float applied structure are higher than the plain structure. This results from the relationship between the mechanical and hand properties.