• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.197-205
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• 2007

We investigated the effects of washing on the mechanical properties and hand values of spandex/cotton and cotton single jersey fabrics. These knitted fabrics were subjected to 30 laundering cycles with a drum-type washer and were followed by drying at $65^{\circ}C$ with a tumble dryer. The mechanical properties of the cotton knitted fabrics changed greatly during the first washing and then suffered no further change in their properties as the number of washing cycle increased. However, the properties of the spandex/cotton knitted fabrics changed continuously throughout all the washing cycles. The cotton/spandex knitted fabrics showed higher values in tensile and bending properties than did the cotton knitted fabrics, though both kinds of fabrics showed less difference in shearing, surface and compression properties. The spandex/cotton knitted fabrics which had proper density had a higher THV for winter underwear after 30 repeated washings than did the cotton knitted fabrics, and the THVs of both fabrics decreased with the increase in the number of washing cycles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.800-808
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• 1999

The demand for PU coated synthetic leather is increasing as a high fashion material. But it has some faults of water vapor permeability surface tacky property and static electricity. Therefore the purpose of this study was the produce of PU coated fabric added collagen with hydrophilic property and soft touch. In the PU coated fabric water vapor permeability water vaper absorption and frictional electronic voltage were investigated surface bending and compression properties were also examined by the use of KES-FB System. The followings were the results of this study. 1. There was no Cr in the collagen so that Cr was not treated in the collagen. 2. The surface and cross sectional layer of PU coated fabric with collagen were highly developed by micro porous structure. 3. The water vapor permeability of PU coated fabric was increased as collagen concentration increased. 4. The water vapor absorption of PU coated fabric was increased as collagen concentration increased. 5. The frictional electronic voltage of PU coated fabric was decreased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration. Especially it effectively decreased by the use of only 5% collagen concentration. 6,. The bending and compression properties of PU coated fabric were increased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration so that it became stiff. 7. The Value of MIU, SMD was decreased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration so that the PU coated fabric became smooth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.605-615
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• 2000

This study was carried out to investigate sound characteristics including sound parameters and subjective sensation, and primary hand values related with sound of fabrics for blouse, and furthermore to predict subjective sound sensation with mechanical properties and sound parameters. Sound of specimens was analyzed by FFT. Level pressure of total sound(LPT), loudness(Z), coefficients of autoregressive(AR) functions for fitting the spectra, and sound color factors(ΔL and Δf) were obtained as sound parameters. Primary hand values for women's thin dress were calculated by using KES-FB. Subjective sensation for sound including softness, loudness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, highness, and pleasantness was evaluated by free modulus magnitude estimation. The results were as follows; 1. Fabrics for blouse showed similar spectral shapes to one another in that amplitude values were lower in most ranges of frequencies than fabrics for other uses. 2. It was found that fabrics for blouse were less louder because LPT, loudness(Z), and ARC values were lower than other fabrics. 3. Primary hand values indicated that specimens were soft-touched, flexible, and less crisp. Among primary hands related with sound, Shari values were higher for silk fabrics than for synthetic ones, while the values for Kishimi were similar, 4. Fabrics for blouse were rated more highly for softness, clearness, and pleasantness than for loudness, sharpness. roughness, and highness. Silk fabrics were evaluated more pleasant than synthetic fabrics. 5. Subjective sensation for sound of blouse fabrics were predicted with mechanical properties and physical sound parameters.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.472-483
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at $180^{\circ}$, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.240-248
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• 2017

This study compares general jacquard fabrics and jacquard fabrics with optical fiber on mechanical properties, sensibility and preference evaluation of fabric for the blind. The analysis also assesses the effect of optical fiber in the evaluation and identifies those best suited for consumers. The mechanical properties of jacquard fabrics were measured by the KES-FB system. Sensibility and the preference of the jacquard fabric for the blind were rated on tactile sensation by women experts in their 20's and 30's. It was found that the optical fiber in jacquard fabric affected the change of mechanical properties as well as sensibility and preference. Jacquard fabric with optical fiber were softer and more transformable, while the fabrics had lower recover property by shear force and compression as well as more violent unevenness. Jacquard fabrics were also classified into three hand factors of surface property, resilience and weightiness. There were significant differences on surface property perceptions and weightiness, hand and blind preferences by optical fiber. Jacquard fabrics that contained optical fiber were not preferred by the blind because they were perceived to be uneven and heavy. Those, that were smooth and light, were preferred for jacquard fabric; in addition, fabrics preferred by the blind had good compression.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.854-861
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• 2015

This study evaluates the objective and subjective hand as well as the preference for hand and outdoor jackets on laminated waterproof breathable fabrics with different constituent characteristics to identify those best suited for consumer needs. Mechanical properties and objective hands were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand and the preference of laminated waterproof breathable fabric for outdoor jackets were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts with tactile and visual senses that utilized a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale; subsequently, the flexibility and compressive elasticity of laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were low. However, light and thin waterproof breathable fabrics with a smooth surface had high scores in smoothness, fullness & softness and total hand value. In addition, laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were classified into three hand factors: flexibility, density, and surface properties. There were significant differences on flexibility and surface property perceptions, hand and out-door jackets preferences according to the characteristics of waterproof breathable fabrics. The hand preference of the laminated waterproof breathable fabric improved with decreasing 2HB and increasing EM. However, EM showed positive effect for outdoor jacket preferences. Those that were flexible and smooth were preferred for outdoor jackets.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2001.05a
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• pp.280-285
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• 2001

폴리우레탄 코팅포의 촉감을 예측하기 위하여 신경망 이론이 사용되었다. 본 연구에서는 Neural Connection의 MLP(Multi Layer Perceptron)를 신경망 분석에 사용하였으며, 학습 알고리즘은 백프로파게인션(Backpropagation)을 이용하였다. 사용된 변수는 KES-FB시스템에서 측정된 17가지 역학적 특성치를 설명변수, 촉감치를 목표변수로 하였다. 폴리우레탄 코팅포의 촉감을 정확하게 예측할 수 있는 신경망 모델을 찾기 위해, 은닉층의 노드수를 8에서 34로 변화시켜 보았다. 또한 MLP적용함수로 선형함수, 비선형 시그모이드함수, 탄젠트 함수를 사용하여 목표변수를 예측하여 모형의 정확도를 살펴보았다. 구축된 신경망모델은 17가지 역학적특성치 자료를 이용하여 학습되었으며 학습 완료 후 학습에 사용되지 않은 시료를 시스템에 적용하여 학습된 신경망 시스템이 촉감을 평가하게 한 후 주관적으로 평가된 촉감치와 비교하여 본 시스템의 판단의 정확성을 평가하도록 하였다. 은닉층의 노드수와 MLP적용함수는 촉감예측에 영향을 미치는 것으로 나타났는데, 촉감 예측에 가장 적절한 모형은 MLP 적용함수가 탄젠트 함수이고 노드수가 22인 것으로 나타났다. 신경망을 통한 폴리우레탄 코팅포의 촉감 예측력은 선행연구에서 이용된 통계적 방법보다 높게 나타나 폴리우레탄 코팅포의 촉감예측에 신경망의 이용은 효과적인 것으로 밝혀졌다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1467-1477
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• 2002

This study was investigated physical properties of stretch fabrics by KES-FB system to show suitable basic data to making skirts of excellent capacity and develop more organized basic skirt pattern by fitness evaluation. 1. The results of T. H. V.(Total Hand Value) were as followa: In the kind of blending fiber, cotton/spandex was more excellent than nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex, in the direction of stretch, one-way(weft inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandex and cotton/spandex were higher than two-way(warp and wet inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandes and cotton/spandex, two-way nylon/spandex was higher than one-way nylon/spandex. 2. The results of calculating the variance between sample stretch fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics after standardizing were as follows: Stretch fabrics has 2 range of tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness and weight as compared with Jpanese s/s women's suit fabrics. In the tensile property, one-way stretch fabrics were almost the same with Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics, only two-way polyester/spandex had+1～+2 range. In the bending, shear property, there was no difference between sample fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics 3. In the total fitness of the skirt, nylon/spandex is the best in the fabrics and one-way stretch fabric is better than two-way strethch fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.650-661
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to suggest a guidance to select proper muslin through investigating fabric characteristics. The structural and physical properties of muslin and top fabric samples were tested by KES-FB system and other testers. And in order to examine the relation between fabric characteristics and the shape of garments, wearing tests were done with jackets made of those samples. As a result, bending rigidity(B), bending hysteresis(2HB), shear stiffness(G), shear hysteresis at=0.5(2HG), shear hysteresis at=5(2HG5), stiffness, cloth count/5cm, weight, thickness were extracted as the key factors affecting the appearance of garments. To have similar appearance, all of these should be counted. After standardizing, we calculate the variance between top cloth and muslin. And from this we could get the range that the proper muslin should be included. The ranges were as follows: Bending rigidity(B): within 0.024g.$\textrm{cm}^2$/cm(0.3$\sigma$); Shear stiffness(G): within 2.21g/cm.degree(1.3$\sigma$) Weight: within 9.33mg/$\textrm{cm}^2$(18$\sigma$); Thickness: within 0.20mm(1.8$\sigma$)