• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.357-362
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• 2006

This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.

• 감성과학
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

본 연구에서는 경사와 위사의 장력에 기인되는 감성 봉제용 직물의 마찰특성을 KES-FB 계측기를 이용하여 분석하였다. 직물의 마찰특성은 직물표면의 마찰계수, 마찰계수의 평균편차, 그리고 표면요철도를 측정하였다. 이들 표면특성치를 분석하기 위해서 75d/36f PET 필라멘트를 경사로 사용하고 100d/192f PET 필라멘트를 위사로 사용하여 5매 주자직 직물을 Omega와 Picanol 직기에서 각각 제직하고 이들을 같이 연결하여 염색가공 공정을 진행시켰다. 이들 가공된 직물의 직물표면특성은 제직시 측정된 경사와 위사의 장력특성과 함께 분석되어 졌으며 직물의 중앙부위와 양 셀베지 부분의 직물 위치에 따른 표면특성의 차이가 분석되어졌다.

• 감성과학
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.191-196
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• 2011

노즐시험기로 측정되는 직물의 당김 힘은 직물이 갖는 포괄적인 촉감을 나타낸다. 노즐시험기는 기존 KES 시스템보다 저가이며, 측정에 있어서 절차가 간단하고 빠르다. 본 연구에서는 노즐시험기로 측정되는 직물의 촉감을 정량적으로 평가하기 위해 마찰법칙을 기초로 하여 반 실험적 촉감 방정식을 개발하였다. 모델 식에서 고려된 변수들은 직물의 마찰계수, 그리고 직물의 굽힘 길이와 전단 신도에 의해 결정되는 직물의 3차원적 변형 특성을 나타내는 드레이프 계수이다. 12 종류의 서로 다른 물성의 면과 폴리에스터 직물들을 사용하여 실험 측정한 촉감 값과 모델 방정식으로부터 예측한 촉감 값들을 비교 분석하였다. 높은 마찰계수, 높은 굽힘 길이, 그리고 낮은 전단 신도를 갖는 직물일수록 높은 촉감 마찰력, 즉 낮은 촉감 성능을 보여주었다. 실험 측정한 촉감 값과 모델 식으로부터 계산한 값들 사이 잘 일치하였으며, 이와 같은 결과는 모델 식을 사용하여 직물의 고유 물성들로써 촉감의 객관적인 예측이 가능함과 더불어 촉감 성능의 향상을 위한 직물설계에 있어서도 유용한 정보를 제공할 수 있음을 보여준다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2008

The UV-protection effect of green-tea dyed fabrics was reported in our previous studies. The chitosan was used as a natural mordant of cellulose fiber for green tea extract because chitosan is a natural bio-polymer. The increase in the UV protection property of summer cellulose fabrics, cotton and linen, upon the repetition of chitosan mordanting and green tea dyeing was observed. However, the physical property change would be followed by this repeated wet processing of the cellulose fabric. Therefore, the physical changes of the chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed cotton and linen fabrics were evaluated by KES-FB system. Tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface characteristics were tested upon the repetition of mordanting and dyeing treatments. Linearity of tensile force increased in the treated cotton and linen samples. Tensile energy and resilience decreased in all treated fabrics. Shear stiffness increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Shear hysteresis was increased in all cotton samples and some linen samples. In cotton, the bending rigidity in all treated cottons increased except C3G3. As the chitosan mordanting numbers increased, the bending rigidity tended to decrease. In linen, the bending rigidity and hysteresis increased in all treated samples. Compressional energy and resilience increased as the number of chitosan mordanting increased both in cotton and linen. This could be the result of the increase in thickness upon chitosan mordanting. Surface coefficient of friction increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Surface roughness tended to increase in cotton.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.152-156
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• 2001

Three different silicone polymer systems, such as aminofunctional, epoxyfunctional, and hydrophilic epoxyfunctional silicone polymers, were applied onto plasma pretreated wool fabric to improve the dimensional properties. The results showed that the plasma pretreatment modified the cuticle surface of the wool fiber and increased the reactivity of wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Felting shrinkage of plasma and silicone treated wool fabric was decreased with different level depending on the applied polymer system. Fabric tear strength and hand were adversely affected by plasma treatment, but these properties were favorably restored on polymer application. Therefore, it has been concluded that the combination of plasma and silicone treatments can achieve the improved dimensional stability, and better performance properties of wool fabric. The surface smoothness appearances of treated fabrics were measured using a new evaluation system, which showed good correspondence with the results of KES-FB4 surface tester.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• 한국정보통신학회논문지
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• 제12권12호
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• pp.2286-2292
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• 2008

본 논문에서는 MB-OFDM(Multiband-Orthogonal Frequency Division Multiplexing) 시스템에서 사용되는 RS(23,17) 부호에 대한 복호기의 최적 구조를 제안하고, 설계하였다. 제안된 복호기 구조는 파이프 라인 구조를 갖는 수정된 유클리드(Modified Euclidean) 알고리즘을 사용하며, MB-OFDM 시스템에 최적화되어 작은 복호 지연(latency) 및 하드웨어 복잡도를 가진다. 제안된 복호기는 Verilog HDL을 사용하여 구현되었고, 삼성 65nm library를 이용하여 합성하였다. 350MHz로 합성했을 때 timing violation이 발생하지 않았기 때문에, 실제 ASIC을 제작해도 250MHz까지 동작하며, gate count는 20,710로 나타났다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.148-152
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• 2001

Cotton yarns were coated with a polymer solution to hold surface fibers to the yam body, which caused fiber-fly generation during knitting process. The physical property of the coated yarn, especially a bending rigidity was investigated in order to evaluate the performance of the coated yam during knitting. SEM images showing the surface condition of the coated yarn demonstrated that the thickness of a coating material increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results of the bending rigidity measured using KES-FB2 system showed that the bending rigidity of the coated yam increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results also revealed the possibility that yarn coated with a low amount of coating material should be employed for further research of reducing fiber-fly generation during knitting process.